Trehalose, a skin care ingredient
1. Composition
Trehalose is a stable non-reducing disaccharide composed of two glucose molecules with a pyranose ring. It is linked with 1,1-glycosidic bond.
2. Source
Trehalose is widely found in lower plants, algae, bacteria, fungi, insects and invertebrates. It is both a storage sugar and an application. An important product of metabolism.
3. Characteristics
Since trehalose is a non-reducing sugar composed of special disaccharide molecules, it is very stable and can withstand harsh conditions such as high temperature, high cold, dryness and water loss. A special protective film is formed on the surface of cells to effectively protect the biomolecule structure from damage, thus maintaining the life processes and biological characteristics of living organisms.
In recent years, the value of trehalose has doubled. As a moisturizer, stabilizer and protectant for biologically active substances, it can be widely used in various industries such as biological preparations, medicine, food, cosmetics and agricultural science.
4. The effect of trehalose in cosmetics
Trehalose is a natural sugar that not only exists in the form of free sugar, but also is a component of various glycolipids. The latest research shows that exogenous trehalose also has a good non-specific protective effect on organisms and biological macromolecules.
Nature magazine published a monograph on the evaluation of trehalose in its July 2000 issue. The article mentioned that for many living organisms, the presence or absence of trehalose means survival or death; However, other sugars in nature such as sucrose and glucose do not have this function.
Trehalose has profound significance in the protection of life. Scientists call it "the sugar of life" and predict that it will be widely used in many fields such as human health care, beauty and cosmetics. In recent years, it has become more and more popular. More and more tests have shown the various effects of trehalose in cosmetic applications.
Exogenous trehalose and endogenous trehalose also have good non-specific protection against living organisms and biological macromolecules. Function, and this protective effect seems to be common to all biological molecules.
Since the endogenous trehalose content in most living organisms known in nature is very small, it is often insufficient to achieve it. Therefore, in many fields involved in modern biotechnology, the application of exogenous trehalose is becoming increasingly important.
1) Trehalose has a small molecular weight and is easily absorbed by the skin
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It enters cells to exert its unique function of replacing stress factors and protecting cell membranes, improving the cells' ability to resist drying and freezing, thereby improving the skin's ability to adapt to the environment.
2. ) Lower the freezing point
Lower the freezing point of the water phase, which can greatly improve the low-temperature stability of the product
3) Prevent the decomposition of oils and fats
For fatty acids and esters. For products, adding trehalose can effectively inhibit the oxidative rancidity of the product. The Japanese Hayashihara Institute of Biology found that trehalose has the effect of inhibiting the unique body odor of middle-aged and elderly people.
Data show that after people reach middle-aged and elderly people, sebum will decrease. The fatty acid palmitic acid in the product increases, and it is easy to produce body odor after decomposition, and trehalose, a natural sugar, can effectively inhibit the decomposition of fatty acids, thereby achieving the effect of preventing body odor.
It is reported that Linyuan Biochemical Company plans. Use this natural sugar to develop cosmetics and care products that prevent body odor.
4) Prevent protein denaturation and maintain the efficacy of various protein and peptide active ingredients.
For those who cannot. The activity of EGF (epidermal growth factor), SOD (superoxide dismutase) and other biochemical substances that remain active at room temperature and for a long time has a good preservation effect, which improves its application value.
Oxygen free radicals are SOD, an important factor that causes many diseases and aging in humans, is the natural nemesis of oxygen free radicals and is the body's first line of defense against free radical damage.
Due to the short half-life of S in the body, its stability is poor. , easy to deactivate, the vitality in SOD skin care products will quickly decrease and even become completely ineffective during storage, so that consumers cannot fully feel its effects.
bEGF is a type of product that is widely present in people and people. Small molecule polypeptides in animals, composed of 53 amino acids, are one of the important growth factors of the human body and are the preferred raw materials for anti-wrinkle and anti-aging cosmetics. However, they are easily inactivated when stored at room temperature.
Today, trehalose, a bioactive protective substance, is used in high-end beauty and skin care cosmetics, rewriting the history of the use of biochemical substances such as bEGF and SCD in cosmetics that cannot remain active at room temperature and for a long time.
5) Moisturizing properties
Excellent water retention and hygroscopicity. In severe dehydration, it can replace the role of water in cells.
The combined application of hyaluronic acid and trehalose is complementary and synergistic, and has both biological preservation and intelligent moisturizing effects, which can always keep the tissues, skin and cosmetics themselves "fresh".
6) Anti-radiation effect
It can scavenge OH·free radicals produced by a and B rays, making cell DNA less likely to mutate. Experimental studies have proven that 10 mol/kg of seaweed Sugar can make living cells withstand 4.3 times the normal dose of a-rays. Trehalose is a protective factor and repair factor for skin cell DNA, which can effectively protect DNA from damage caused by radiation.
7) It has a stabilizing effect on antioxidant polyphenols
Maintaining the stability of active ingredients is an indispensable element of cosmetics. Currently, many skin care products containing green tea extract can be found on the market. Green tea attracts attention because of its high content of tea polyphenols. Green tea is a very active antioxidant and very unstable in formulas. Trehalose has a stabilizing effect on the antioxidant "polyphenols", thereby reducing the possibility of product problems.
5. Application of trehalose in cosmetics
Scope of application
1) Trehalose has good compatibility, compatibility and stability. It can be added to almost any cosmetics, such as creams, lotions, masks, essences, foundation creams, shampoos, conditioners, mousses, facial cleansers, etc. It can also be used as lip balm, oral cleanser, oral fragrance, etc. Sweetener, flavor improver, quality improver.
2) In addition, anhydrous trehalose can be used in cosmetics as a dehydrating agent for phospholipids and enzymes. The amount of addition can be selected in the range of 1%-10% according to its use.
3) Trehalose combined with hyaluronic acid has excellent effect when used in anti-wrinkle and anti-wrinkle cosmetics, sunscreen cosmetics, facial masks and eye patches.
How to use
Trehalose is very stable to heat and acid, which can be explained through the following experiments
(1) Stability: pH3.5~10, Heated at 100C for 24 hours (2) Thermal stability of aqueous solution: no browning for 90 minutes at 120°C; (3) Thermal stability of protein-containing solutions: no browning for 90 minutes in boiling water;
(4) Long-term stability of aqueous solution It does not decompose or brown when stored. Based on the above properties of trehalose, it is very convenient to use in actual production.
It can be added directly to the system, and its activity is not affected by temperature and pH. It has good compatibility with other active raw materials. For cream products, trehalose can be added directly to the water phase before homogenization, or it can be formulated into an aqueous solution and added to the system at any stage after the phases are combined and homogenized. For liquids and other types of products, just add them directly to the water.
As an all-natural, multi-functional bioactive additive, trehalose has a strong moisturizing effect and various physiological effects. Therefore, trehalose and its sulfate derivatives can be used as moisturizers, stabilizers and quality improvers for cosmetics, and their fatty acid derivatives are also excellent surfactants
After the 1990s, the use of trehalose Biological properties are gradually being understood and utilized by people. With the advancement of biotechnology and cosmetics technology, trehalose will have breakthroughs in its application in skin anti-aging, anti-fatigue, energy replenishment, wound repair, sun protection, and post-sun repair. sexual progress. There is no doubt that trehalose will show more and more miraculous effects on human beauty, skin care, and hair care.