“After the water in the soup pot is boiled, the high temperature brought by the steam enters the steam pot through the air column, and the water vapor condenses into chicken soup, which is steam pot chicken.” Chinese people have always paid attention to integrity, Yu Haoran The old-time Kunming Fuzhao Street Steam Pot Chicken’s tradition of “cultivating righteousness” has been preserved. In front of the open kitchen of Fu Zhaolou Dian Cuisine Restaurant in Kunming, the four characters "Haoran Zhengqi" are prominently displayed.

Stacks of purple pottery pots are stacked neatly, the steam is flowing majesticly, and the original smell of steam pot chicken is in the air, like a battle of food and drink. The chef stood by and steamed for nearly four hours, never leaving. Every repeated steaming, ordinary waiting, and every inconspicuous process carries the charm and integrity of this pot of original steam pot chicken.

A dish is a skill.

In the temper of time, Steam Pot Chicken has carried the burden of more than 200 years of history and moved forward. What is inherited is not only the taste remembered by Yunnan people, but also the continuation of the quality of the simple craftsmen in cooking and cooking. Men and women of food and drink travel around the world, and some people have the true inheritance, and Yu Haoran is one of them.

In the small fields and in foreign countries, we all miss and stick to the voices in our hearts and the tastes in our memories. The Spring Festival is full of flavor. Sina Yunnan walked into the old Kunming in my memory and talked with Yu Haoran, the owner of Fuzhao, a famous Yunnan Dian cuisine company, about the indispensable dish in the New Year's Eve dinner. The format of the New Year’s Eve dinner is constantly changing, youth is indestructible, but the taste of the New Year in our memories will never change.

"There is only one New Year's Eve dinner, and the atmosphere of reunion is very important." After years of experience in the catering industry, what Yu Haoran misses most is the New Year's Eve dinner that the elderly family members participated in making. Those simple days when you can wear new clothes and be very happy when you get lucky money are long-lasting childhood memories for Yu Haoran.

"If the dishes of a place represent the character of the people in that place, they eat whatever grows in the land, thus gradually forming the cuisine and dishes of a place. Food is a kind of memory."

Among Yunnan dishes, most are simple to prepare and use the most direct cooking techniques to retain the original and original taste of the ingredients. This may be the "food memory" that Yu Haoran wants to retain. "The sense of simplicity and heaviness contained in a pot of authentic steam-pot chicken can often reflect the 'mountain spirit' of Yunnan people who are not very good at expressing themselves and do not know how to package and market themselves." He always firmly believes that, Dishes are full of vitality and need memories to carry them. Perhaps what carries this generation is the hometown flavor called "Yunnan cuisine."

"Cultural catering is not a deep accumulation of culture. It requires the penetration of humanities and the addition of history. Through a meal, you can learn more about the cultural and historical connotations of Yunnan. This is the healthy development of the traditional catering industry. "In 2002, when Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine was booming and Yunnan cuisine was in decline, Yu Haoran, who had entrepreneurial dreams, opened "Fu Zhaolou" with only 10 small tables. At that time, I picked up the golden signature of my ancestors’ traditional Yunnan cuisine; at this time, Fu Zhaolou’s local and authentic Yunnan cuisine restaurant impressed the hearts of diners.

On the eighth day of the twelfth lunar month in the year of Dingyou, Yu Haoran had one of the rare days of painting by hand. The portraits of the door gods and auspicious boys must have been painted by his own hands. The flavor of the new year created by his own hands became a blessing for a while. One of the most eye-catching visual elements of Zhaolou.

Yu Haoran is a well-known cultural figure in Yunnan’s catering industry. Writing and painting are his biggest hobbies. For this reason, he is often criticized by colleagues in the catering industry as "not doing his job properly". In his early years, Yu Haoran majored in painting and first worked in the advertising industry. Then he changed his career track and chose catering. He wanted to build an old restaurant that served authentic and authentic Yunnan cuisine.

In Yu Haoran, there is not only the politeness of a scholar that runs through his expression and temperament, but also the peace and insight that are close to the market.

In his cuisine, there are no absolutely standardized dishes, and he gives chefs the greatest freedom and enthusiasm for innovation; in the inherited food memories, he is close to the market culture of old Kunming, and presents a noisy neighborhood atmosphere in Fuzhaolou, allowing diners to have a unique experience. The spiritual experience of "being in his hometown"; in life, he traveled through the wilderness and left some short poems and sentences as essays on his experiences during the journey... "Life needs some flexibility to retain more human things." It is exactly that. Yu Haoran's open-mindedness and flexibility allow diners to gain more food culture experience from Fu Zhaolou.

When the traditional old store model no longer meets the needs of urban development, coupled with the change in the catering commercial model, the flow of people began to move towards more concentrated commercial systems, Yu Haoran began to try some small stores in business districts. In addition to the traditional Fu Zhaolou, which continues to expand at a steady pace and adds one new store every year, it has now formed a large-scale catering chain with 9 stores. Fu Zhaolou has also launched special features in Kunming business district such as Nanya and Wanda. Small store.

"Dian cuisine must be put into this sea to toss and test, in order to prove the vitality of Yunnan cuisine, explore the development path of Fuzhaolou, show the charm of Yunnan cuisine food culture, and better It condenses the courage of Yunnan cuisine to go global. "Innovation is for better development. He has adhered to the authentic Yunnan flavor and the local Yunnan market for many years. Has Yu Haoran ever considered promoting Fu Zhaolou nationwide?" The answer is yes.

With an open mind, he does not stick to specific cooking techniques. He hopes to convey the food culture and food elements of Yunnan: "It can be unique and innovative. Yunnan cuisine needs to attract more people."

Wherever there are Chinese people, the traditional Chinese food business will never die. Because Chinese people value love, no matter how young people change, they cannot avoid the reunion at home for the New Year. That sense of ritual will bring young people to maturity. When they grow up and get married, they will still come back to the round table. This It is the Chinese concept of reunion. "Even if the years change, Yu Haoran firmly believes that the traditional and memorable taste will never die. No matter how far people go, they will eventually return to the round table.

The round table is where the Chinese people belong during the New Year. The pot symbolizes reunion and prosperity, and the steam pot chicken is full of "righteousness". This pot of chicken, a New Year's Eve dinner, and a gathering are all rituals, all for the purpose of inheriting and continuing a taste and a memory. , and of course there is a sense of friendship

?——Remembering the New Year’s Eve Dinner Night·Yu Haoran