1. Sometimes, I don't know why I want to go to a place.
From Tongli, Nanxun and Xitang, I don't know where the next ancient town will go. My yearning for the ancient town stems from my attachment to the small bridges and flowing water in the south of the Yangtze River, and I painted myself in the south of the Yangtze River. It was not until later that I walked from one town to another that I realized that although they were similar in general, every place reflected every light in the traces of time. I caught up with misty rain in Tongli and fell in love with the tranquility of Nanxun. In my spare time, I will read some information about ancient towns. I didn't know it would be Xitang at that time, and her arrival caught me off guard.
My impression of Xitang comes from Tom's movies. The advertising effect brought by the penetration of this film industry is not a good thing or a bad thing for scenic spots. I didn't know about Xitang until I was influenced by the film propaganda, although the location of Xitang didn't give me more impression between the scenes of the film. But after that, I saw Xitang more than once in many words related to travel notes. Some of my friends talked about the beauty there, and the beautiful scenery always inspires. The most beautiful thing in their articles is the beautiful misty and rainy corridor. I like this simple but exquisite name. After I came back from Xitang, I re-examined these four words on Xitang map more than once. The towns in the south of the Yangtze River are condensed into a picture scroll, and the lines and patterns dyed with ink and wash have my footprints again and again. That's because I kept walking when I was in Xitang. I have repeatedly stepped on every street in Xitang, passed every bar in Xitang and walked across every small bridge. After dinner, I slept, sat on the bridge at night and watched it all night, then suddenly realized that I had been running in Xitang. My camera and the angles and pictures I need forced me to approach Xitang under such circumstances.
During my walking, I saw the hand-drawn map of Xitang more than once. I don't know why I didn't buy it. Maybe at that time, my subconscious thought I hadn't left Xitang. It was not until I went out that I suddenly became attached to the map. I know I left like this, and it's hard for me to get here again. The map will bring me closer to Xitang, and when I forget it, it will awaken my memory. I was so scared at that moment that I even thought about buying another ticket. Fortunately, the stall next to the station is still for sale. I bought one, like a treasure.
2. I went to Xitang by bus from Hangzhou, much like when I went to Tongli and Nanxun.
I'm waiting to change at the station thousands of miles away from home. I'm used to walking like this. There are people in my hometown who will be like me, but they make a living and I travel. The increase in speed has narrowed the distance between cities and towns, and between towns and towns; With the rapid development of network and information, the popularity of a scenic spot has been improved. In the crowded tourist army, the atmosphere of scenery and things has been squeezed to pieces.
Among the people in my car, I don't know whether Xitang is part of their life rhythm or, like me, a tourist passing by in a hurry.
When I got off the bus, my aunt met me at the gate of the station. She rode an electric car and took me through the periphery of Xitang, from the east gate to her home. Later, I always regretted that I was too busy taking pictures. When my aunt invited me to dinner at home, I politely refused. In fact, I seldom have the opportunity to have dinner with the residents here. Maybe that way will bring different feelings to my trip.
I live in Liren Street, Xitang, not far from the scenic spot. Because there are not many tourists on Thursday, the river is quiet, and the inns along the river have erected the sign "There is a room today". It was not until I crossed a bridge and saw that the water in front was open that I was in the real Xitang scenic spot.
I like Xitang, because it is closest to Jiangnan in my imagination. Many of her shops were built by the water or on narrow streets, so I didn't buy tickets, so I didn't go into those memorable homesteads. I don't know if they have cave views. I just walked along the stone road to the end of the misty rain corridor, and then walked another street. Later, I have been walking these roads repeatedly, so that I have remembered which one sells what souvenirs and which one sells what snacks.
I have noticed the purpose of my visit. I have been thinking about how to take a group of photos, but I don't know where to start. Some of the pictures I have planned in advance simply won't work. At first, I just subconsciously raised my camera, and the water in Xitang, the bridge in Xitang and the tourists in Xitang were all in the picture. The freeze-frame after the shutter did not bring me joy and emotion.
This is the strangeness before each shooting. Because Xitang and I haven't established feelings for each other yet, what I have to do is to blend in slowly. I am not a Xitang resident. After spending many years quietly here, I suddenly found that the bridge was crowded with a few tourists. I'm not a businessman who runs an inn and a shop here. After staying here for a long time, the atmosphere of Xitang will always penetrate into it. The moment of occasional attention, after watching the water and clouds, smoke and lights in Xitang quiet, is the charm of Xitang. I am just a passer-by. I stood on the bridge in Xitang, but there was a thick layer in front of me. I need to open a door in a limited time and see inside. Read as much as possible.
At two o'clock, I had my first meal in Xitang. It is not the characteristic of Xitang, only the time and place can be related to Xitang. Most of our meals in a day are fixed at a certain time and place, and only travel will break the original rules. Isn't it great that the world is so far away that it can be several times different?
I walked along Beizha Street to Yongning Bridge. Standing on the bridge and looking west, it is the most famous misty and rainy corridor in Xitang. At this time, there is no smoke, no rain, no lights and even no sunshine.
Under the misty rain corridor are shops, drink shops and restaurants. Many souvenirs can be bought in other places. If you really care about the difference, it is because of the spatial location of Xitang. I went into several jewelry stores, and like many tourists, I would choose some souvenirs I like. But that afternoon, I didn't buy any. There are many tourists and narrow streets, which are different from the ancient town in Tongli. There is a retreat garden in Tongli, and there are many buildings in Ming and Qing Dynasties. Just a garden like the retreat garden makes Tongli have an atmosphere different from other ancient towns. When I was in Tongli, I spent half my time visiting the garden. It was raining that day, and almost no one was there. Hundreds of buildings in Xitang and Nanxun are so similar, except for the quiet night when Nanxun residents live, there is not even a lantern. Now the misty rain corridor is so busy and crowded that shops are densely arranged together. They need to make Xitang famous to add something different from other places. From the appearance, it is no different from any pedestrian street, but it is the foundation of Xitang that makes it feel like a water town in the south of the Yangtze River.
I bought a bowl of tofu pudding in Xiaxi Street, and once I went out to find the route at the gate of the scenic spot tomorrow. You can see the town outside the scenic spot from the exit, but the narrow alley separates the scenic spot from the outside into two worlds. When you see the passing cars and pedestrians, I think maybe that's the life of Xitang people now.
There was a time when I asked myself why I came to Xitang.
Fatigue is a heavy feeling caused by walking for a long time without a moment's rest. At that time, I had taken two trips along the misty corridor to Xiashang West Street, and stood on the Huanxiu Bridge and Yongning Bridge to have a panoramic view of the corridor from two directions. I found that I seem to have overlooked the smell of Xitang and cared too much about the things in the box. Unconsciously changed their original yearning for the ancient town. The camera's intervention blocked my original sight and let me see Xitang from another angle. I walked so fast that when a beautiful light flashed before my eyes, I could never find it.
So I stopped.
I sat on the edge of misty rain building road and watched a student sketch. He took a photo with his mobile phone and put it there. Then he drew while watching. The Xitang outlined by a pencil is quiet and simple, without any noise. For many people who study painting, they must draw a misty and rainy corridor when they come to Xitang. Unlike cameras, they need to be shaped one by one. This is a process that takes time and patience. The movement of light allows the painter to see the change of color slowly. After sitting for a long time, every cornice and every brick will have emotions. I am convinced that this student must be more impressed with Xitang than I am, because I have never seen it as carefully as he has. I wanted to sit beside him for a while, but the tourists who came to see his paintings seemed to disturb his peace, so I left.
I'm sitting on Yongning Bridge, next to a photo of Tom Cruise standing on the bridge. I recalled the panoramic view of the corridor behind the hero and heroine at the end of the movie. This distance makes me a little disappointed. Maybe it's because I used to pay too much attention to the myth of movies. In addition, the film is not far from us, only a striking distance.
Until the cruise ship started paddling, I walked from Yongning Bridge to Huanxiu Bridge with my camera on my back, chose the right angle, and then chased the boat back. But the boat and bridge in the picture frame are still not what I want.
I decided to go back to the inn for a while and have a rest. I walked back from the east side of the bridge. The bars on the street don't open on time, but people who go in at this time can sing for free. Strange songs came from the room, and I don't know where the girl is.
It seems to be the distance of a bridge. After crossing the bridge, it will be quiet when you get to Liren Street. There are houses under construction by the water, which may soon become new shops or inns. I heard a young voice asking where to stay. It's a couple who want to see the night view of Xitang. I used to be as young as them, but at that time, my world was so small.
Back at the inn, my aunt invited me to dinner, but I politely refused because I was tired and my stomach was full of snacks.
In fact, there is another reason, that is, I am too picky about food, and I am afraid that my eating habits run counter to each other's goodwill. I used to like Jiangnan food so much, but now I have no appetite because of too much physical exertion. At that time, I didn't know that I had to take medicine for a long time to relieve my stomach discomfort.
I saw it getting dark outside, so I came out again. The porch of Liren Street is covered with lanterns. On the contrary, there are more tourists at night, and the bar has already opened. All kinds of music are intertwined in the shadow of the lights. When I walked to Anjing Bridge, I saw the reflection of Yongning Bridge in front of me, like a curved moon in the water. I didn't bring a shelf, so I had to lie on the bridge to keep the camera stable.
Many people are taking pictures on the bridge. Just like sketching, the misty and rainy corridor at night is where photographers gather. I need to squeeze into the crowd to take a photo or two, so I have to walk down the road that I have walked several times during the day and walk again.
There are always some things, only under certain circumstances, will increase their meaning, or aesthetic feeling. Xitang is destined to be a romantic place or a gathering place for friends. There are very few lonely people around me like me.
I saw the couple with lanterns, the sisters with lanterns, and their sincere wishes. When lanterns go down the river, their smiles shine in the shadows. I saw an old man selling lamps in the street. I was afraid to take his picture, so I went up and bought him a lamp. He looked at me with a camera and talked to me. I don't know much about Jiangnan dialect. But he was glad I took his picture. When I raised my camera to take his picture, he lowered his eyes and looked at a pile of lanterns in front of him. The light is not too bright, but it just illuminates his quiet facial outline. I suddenly realized that this is actually the Xitang I want to shoot.
I lit the lamp and put it in the river. I watched the lights go out slowly. I seem to have made a symbolic wish, but I don't know what I made.
Because there were too many people, I went to one store to send postcards to people far away, and went to other stores to buy souvenirs. I used to think that if I could leave a most conspicuous mark in one place, the postmark would be the most lasting mark. I am used to sending postcards to distant friends in one place, and the footprints of mountains and rivers are left in the landscape of postcards.
After I finished my rice wine dumplings, there were fewer people outside. I saw that the wall of this shop was covered with messages, and the words written on it were printed with labels related to Xitang for future generations to see. Since when do we like this? These impromptu words just tell the next traveler that this is Xitang.
If I were with someone else, we might go to a bar. Not only the misty rain corridor, but also the wine is a business card of Xitang. Many people want to experience this lifestyle and spend an ordinary night with many strangers in a water town far from home. This way is one of the purposes of their trip, whether they catch up on their own or because of other factors, just because this is Xitang.
I didn't go to the bar. I'm just sitting alone on Yongning Bridge, listening to the songs coming from the bar. It's windy and a little cold. I don't want to go. I watched people coming and going, and I watched the misty corridor across the street slowly quiet down. It was not until some shops were about to close that I stepped up from the bridge and walked along the corridor.
When I got to the west exit, Xitang was already very quiet. I see some shops are closing, and I also see several people still guarding their booths. The lights in the open shop scattered from the door and cast a shadow under the porch. A cleaner began to sweep the floor, so I took photos with him, being careful not to disturb him.
At this time, the smell of Xitang being squeezed away by tourists slowly fell with the wind. It falls on the roof tiles of the misty rain building, on the eaves, on the bridges, under the corridors, and some are slowly scattered into the water. Only then does your breath belong to Xitang. All her years only slowly seeped into your breath when no one was around, and every alley and brick slowly revealed her fatigue after the years. I think Xitang may go to bed. The lanterns on the porch are silent, or asleep, or even water. A seller is sitting alone in front of his shop. The shelf behind him is full of this ancient musical instrument. I took a picture of him, but he didn't even look at me. I wonder why he has been sitting there so late.
The street is quiet, only one or two small restaurants are still open. I don't know whether to kill time or wait for customers who come home late. I walked to a store selling Euryale ferox cakes. The shopkeeper is still processing this local dessert, and the heroine is already cleaning up the stall. I couldn't help but buy a piece, not necessarily for eating, but because this evening reminded me of a time when I had a repeated life every day, selling stalls in the morning and closing them at night. Many times, late at night, I was almost closed, but I always met a late customer.
At this time, only the song is still echoing in Xitang. I'm glad I live far away from here. If I live in the misty rain corridor, will I forget these songs?
When I was walking back along Beizha Street, I saw several people listening to music and drinking in a bar. A middle-aged singer is holding a guitar and singing songs belonging to his time. I don't know if he is like those people who sell souvenirs or make gorgon cakes, but his lifestyle here is decided by Xitang, or he is a tramp, just happened to be here tonight.
The noise in the bar is relatively quieter than the windows. In the soft light, those dazzling signs and decorations are like the scene of a fairy tale. Outside the window is a fairy tale scene. I wonder if the dolls inside will wake up and start to belong to their world when the real night comes.
I want to transfer to Liren Street. By this time, the song had gone. When I tried to cross the bridge, I saw the opposite room completely reflected in the water. If it weren't for the fluctuation of the waterline, it would be difficult for me to distinguish between reality and illusion. This is the place I first saw in the viewfinder when I entered Xitang Scenic Area, and I didn't care at that time. But when it got dark, it became my favorite night scene of Xitang.
There is also a small shop at the entrance of Liren Street. The vacant room can be used by the shopkeeper. Xitang is not a fast-paced city. They are used to waiting between the sound of water and the lights.
I couldn't sleep in the middle of the night because I remembered to get up early.
When I woke up, I couldn't hear any sound from Xitang. I fell asleep again until the alarm clock woke me up.
I got up late after all. When I went out, I saw the faint light in the east. When I arrived at Yongning Bridge, someone had already started taking pictures there. Because of the different light, I want to run back and forth between Yongning Bridge and Huanxiu Bridge. The light spot began to smear from the west of the corridor, and then moved eastward bit by bit until the whole corridor was completely illuminated.
I wonder if I will meet some early risers in the street, but many shops are not open yet. Unconsciously, I walked out of the scenic spot, crossed the bridge and walked east along the river. It's a road I never thought of. The water is still in front of a mirror, and the house is reflected in the water, which is a detailed picture of Jiangnan. I can't explain why the turbid water I saw yesterday is crystal clear and spotless at this time. Later, when choosing photos, except for the night scene, this is the most beautiful corner of Xitang during the day. Maybe I was even better in time, but I didn't catch up. Like I missed a rain or a snow. It's more beautiful when it rains. I missed the scene where the rain curtain fell from the eaves. I only saw the cover of Jiangnan water town swaying in the wind. Xitang is the pearl of Jiangnan water town, which deserves these four words, but there are more and more tourists here. Today is only Friday, but because of the sunny day, teams from all over the country have occupied the bridge in Xitang, and the tour guides' explanations are crowded with the alleys in Xitang.
For tourist attractions, this may be a good thing, but for us travelers, it is more helpless. Perhaps the reason is that within ourselves, as long as you put your heart into it, there is always a place you can find in the noisy scenic spots. Just like my trip, there are places that remind me of Xitang life in the evening and in the morning, but I don't have more time to spend. I know there are beautiful mountains and rivers waiting for me in the distance, but it is difficult for me to throw myself into them. I'm used to coming to these towns with the wind of the years, and I caught so many bricks in time in the process of being eaten by tourist hot silkworms. Many times, we go to a place because many people go, and we are all imitating what others have done. I have always wanted to meet unexpected scenery, but I don't know. When those unexpected gifts come to me, should I photograph them and tell those who don't know?
So I didn't go to Zhouzhuang and Wuzhen. In the rumor about commercialization, I no longer go there. Went to Tongli in 2008. I wonder what changes have taken place in these ancient towns during these four years. Have you started sending business cards in your name? Have you started sending them by slow mail as in the future?
Towards noon, I went to a bookstore. The books on the shelf didn't bring me joy. I can't stand the noise downstairs, so I just sit upstairs. From where I was sitting, I happened to see the word "send it to the future". Maybe slow mail is only suitable for scenic spots. Send a postcard here and send it to yourself in a few months or a year or two. But I never know, at the moment when we are running for our lives, who can guarantee that the place where you live will not change in a few years? Or you have moved to another place. A sudden surprise comes from you forgetting one thing, as long as you have been there and never left. Therefore, in Xitang, many people send slow mail.
My aunt in the inn has bought me a ticket. After checking out, I walked through the misty rain corridor for the last time and walked in the street. I finally ate a bowl of tofu pudding and fried dough sticks opposite Tom's photo. The weather is very hot, and extreme fatigue makes my lunch hard to swallow. I woke up a little dizzy, walked along West Street, crossed an alley, and then came out.
I bought the hand-painted Xitang that I always wanted at the stall in front of the station. I sat on a small stone in Xitang station, waiting for the bus to Shanghai.