Zong Baihua's On the Beauty of Jin People
After the Han Dynasty, although the country was unstable, the four places were not harmonious, and the food supply was difficult for years, the nobles cultivated a good sense of taste. Gradually, new eating habits have become a common practice.
This wind blew into the bones of literati in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties. They have created many literary works that have been handed down through the ages with food as the material.
Staple food story
From the south of the Yangtze River, a thousand hooves are the goods. ? Song Shu
During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, Jiangnan became the national economic center, which greatly affected the development of food culture.
Land of wuyue? Rice, rice and fish? . With the increase of grain output, especially the development of rice planting, rice has become the staple food of people in southern China.
Cake and steamed bread
In the staple food structure of Wei Jin people, cakes? Occupy a large proportion. Shu Xi of the Western Jin Dynasty once wrote a special "Cake Fu", which mentioned more than ten kinds of cakes. Jin people generally call pasta boiled, steamed in cages and baked oil cakes. So steamed bread is also a cake, cat ears are also a cake, steamed bread is also a cake, and acne is also a cake. These people are really talented.
Speaking of steamed bread, do you think it's amazing? That's right! People in this period mastered the fermentation technology. Jia Sixie's "Qi Yao Min Shu" recorded the food culture in this period. It says:
One stone, seven or eight liters of white rice, for porridge; In six or seven liters of white wine. As soon as the fire started, the fish's eyes boiled and I was twisted into dough.
So, steamed bread appeared.
It is mentioned in the "cake fu":? At the beginning of the third spring, when Yin and Yang meet and feast, steamed bread should be set up. ? Steamed bread was used for sacrifice, which was a rarity at that time!
Hu Hua diet
Spending five flowers is a dark period in the history of China. However, the communication with Hu people greatly promoted the development of diet in the Central Plains.
The most representative foods in Hu Hua phenomenon are dairy products and beef and mutton.
As we all know, the Han people once did not eat dairy products. Northwest nomads are good at developing animal husbandry and are men who drink milk from cattle and sheep.
There is a famous southerner named Wang Su. He used to work in Qi State in the Southern Dynasties, and later defected to the Northern Wei Dynasty.
When Su Chu entered China, he didn't eat mutton, casein and other things. He often drinks crucian carp soup and is thirsty for tea juice.
Wang Su is very funny. At first, he didn't eat mutton and yogurt when he went to the north, but he still ate rice and fish and drank tea. It took him several years to get used to it. This situation makes sense today.
The dairy products in this period mainly include cheese (yogurt), crisp (ghee) and milk rot (cheese).
Huns feed on cattle and sheep. At that time, the farming civilization in the Central Plains attached great importance to cattle, so ordinary people ate less meat, but the blending with Xiongnu brought rich livestock for food.
Vegetarian culture
Dishes include leek, garlic and taro, green bamboo shoots and purple ginger, pansy sweet, giant knotweed incense, lotus fragrance, sunny lotus, green sunflower dew and white lotus cream.
Pan Yue, a poem of living in seclusion
Pan Yue is Pan An, a famous handsome man. He listed so many vegetables that it is conceivable that there were many kinds of vegetables in those days. During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, the diet also had a small fresh wind, which was light and not as hot as the previous dynasties. With the introduction of Mahayana Buddhism into China, vegetarianism (too fashionable) rose. In the Book of Qi Yao Min, there is a section about vegetarianism, which records the methods of making various vegetables: people think that leeks in early spring and Chinese cabbage in late autumn are the most delicious.
What do literati write?
Fu in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties emphasized description, but ignored lyricism.
They wrote many food ode, such as melon ode, jujube ode, chestnut ode, loquat ode, rotten peach ode, pomegranate ode and so on.
There were other special foods that could be written in those days, such as water shield, crab and wine.
Lu Ji, a famous writer in Jin Dynasty, visited Ji Wang in Luoyang and asked: Ji pointed to goat cheese and said:? Why did Wuzhong in Qing Dynasty oppose this? ? A cloud:? Thousands of miles of soup, no salt? .
It means:? What can be compared with this in Jiangdong? ? Answer:? A thousand miles of soup, no salt to beat. ?
Jin Shu? "Hanshu Zhangzhuan" records:
Seeing the autumn wind, Han remembered the leek, soup and perch in Wuzhong and said, Life is expensive in fitting, how can you hire a mg thousands of miles away? ? Then I drove home.
So there is the idiom "thinking of perching on a tree".
People in China have a long history of eating crabs. Watching chrysanthemums and eating crabs in a Dream of Red Mansions is an autumn affair. But this crab-eating affair also began with celebrities in Wei and Jin Dynasties.
Bi Zhuo in the Eastern Jin Dynasty, Shi Shuo Xin Yu? Record him on his birthday:? Holding a glass in your right hand and crab claws in your left hand, you can shoot a floating wine boat for life. ?
There were frequent exchanges between the Southern Dynasties and the Northern Wei Dynasty, and early diplomats sent missions to the Northern Wei Dynasty, including Liu Xiaoyi. When he returned to his hometown, he saw that his children welcomed each other and his neighbors were friendly and enthusiastic. So when he was tired, he still took crab claws, ate shrimp and drank a few more cups for homesickness.
Young children go out to meet, and good neighbors work hard, holding crab tongs tired and holding shrimp bowls in a hurry. I didn't change my face, but I was a little drunk. I used it all day. It is also for self-entertainment.
Calling for Song one after another, how many days do we have? ? How to solve your worries? Only Du Kang. ? Nothing can be written better than Cao Cao.
However, the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties were not the time when people of insight made great achievements. The starting point of drinking was to relieve worries and pursue the freedom of life. Liu Ling, one of the seven sages of bamboo forest, is like this, and so are others, but he is the most critical.
There is a gentleman who regards heaven and earth as the time, ten thousand periods as a moment, the sun and the moon as a moment, and eight shortages as the DPRK; There are no traces of travel, no living room, curtains on the ground, and so on; Hold the kettle when it stops, and lift it when it moves. Only wine is a business, how do you know the rest?