noodles
the origin of noodles 1
Chinese noodles originated in the Han dynasty. At that time, pasta was collectively called cake, because noodles should be cooked in soup, so it was also called soup cake. Early noodles were flaky and strip-shaped. Sheet is made by holding the dough in your hand and pulling it into a noodle and putting it in the pot. In Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties, the variety of noodles increased. Well-known ones are "Shui Yin" and "Jia Wei" included in Qi Min Yao Shu. "Shui Yin" is to press noodles as thick as chopsticks into the shape of "leek leaves"; "Jia Wei" is a very thin "smooth and beautiful" patch.
During the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties, there were more varieties of noodles. There is a kind of cold noodles with water called "Lengtao", which has a unique flavor and is very appreciated by poet Du Fu, calling it "teeth are colder than snow". There is also a kind of noodles, which is made tough and has the saying that "wet noodles can tie shoelaces", which is called one of the "seven wonders of health".
in the song and yuan dynasties, "dried noodles" appeared. for example, in Lin' an city in the southern song dynasty, there were raw noodles for pigs and sheep and a variety of plain noodles for sale. By the Ming and Qing dynasties, noodles had more colors. For example, Li Yu, a dramatist in the Qing Dynasty, included "spiced noodles" and "eight treasures noodles" in "Casual Love". These two kinds of noodles are made by mixing the fine powder of five and eight kinds of animal and plant raw materials into the noodles respectively, which can be called the top grade of noodles.
"prehistoric noodles" in Qinghai won the "noodle invention right" for China.
As a worldwide popular food, noodles are claimed by many countries, among which Italy, Arabia and China are the main ones. Recently, the famous British magazine Nature published a paper entitled "Millet Noodles in the Late Neolithic Age in China", saying that archaeologists in China found the noodles in a site in Qinghai [which was blocked from advertising] about 4,111 years ago, and the dispute over the "invention right" of noodles came to an end.
In mid-October, 2112, Ye Maolin, a researcher from China Academy of Social Sciences, led the staff to find an upside-down bowl on the Lajia Neolithic site in Minhe County, Qinghai Province. On the top of the bowl-shaped soil, that is, at the bottom of the original bowl, there was a group of bright yellow thread, which was soft in texture and looked like the "Lamian Noodles" we often eat today, with a fairly uniform thickness, only about 1.3 cm in diameter and 51 cm in length.
The main author of the paper, Lv Houyuan, a researcher at the Institute of Geology and Geophysics, China Academy of Sciences, is an expert in micro-palaeobotany. He said, "In order to find out the origin of this noodle, we mainly detected two substances: phytolith and starch." Phytolith is a kind of silica mineral that is filled into cells during plant growth. The filling form of phytolith is different in different plant cells, which can be preserved for a long time and can classify plants more accurately. He said: "From the shape and structure of phytolith, it is only similar to millet and millet planted in northwest China, and it is not the wheat that we widely eat now." The starch in "noodles" was comparatively studied from the morphological and optical characteristics, and the conclusion supported the "theory of raw materials of millet (millet) and millet".
Lv Houyuan said that the preservation of soft-bodied fossils is extremely difficult, and the existence of this bowl of noodles in China depends on the special experience of the place. The Lajia family was destroyed by a catastrophic earthquake. The bowl with the noodles was upside down on the ground, and the cave cave collapsed and covered with loess. Lv Houyuan said: "Fortunately, the bowl is upside down on the ground, so that there is a certain space between the noodles in the bowl and the bottom of the bowl, so that the noodles will not be directly pressed and turned into powder, and the original state will be maintained." After the earthquake, there was a flood. The sediment brought by the Yellow River sealed the Lajia site together with the bowl of noodles that could not be eaten, and it was not until 4111 years later that it was seen again.
Because noodles are extremely difficult to preserve as software materials, there is no direct evidence of early noodles in the world for a long time. All the conclusions come from some written records or murals, and the time is only about 2111 years. The bowl of noodles found in Lajia site not only won the honor of noodle inventor for China people, but also provided clues for Neolithic agricultural archaeology and ancient food culture research.
the origin of noodles 2
The Night Boat: "Wei makes soup cakes, but Jin does not care." (Zhang Dai's note: "If you don't ask for it, it's simpler than soup cake." )
The origin of actual noodles is about earlier than Wei. In the Eastern Han Dynasty, Liu Xi's "Dish" has already mentioned "steamed cakes, soup cakes, scorpion cakes, pith cakes, golden cakes, and soggy cakes". According to Liu Xi's view that "soggy cakes" may be early noodles developed on the basis of "soup cakes", so they have existed since the Eastern Han Dynasty. Noodles are obviously developed from soup cakes. Nowadays, the soup cake is actually a kind of noodle soup, which is made by holding the mixed dough in your hand and tearing it into noodles and cooking it in a pot. This kind of soup cake began in the Han Dynasty and is the predecessor of noodles. On the basis of soup cake, it has developed into "asking for cake." "Explaining the name and supplementing the evidence": "Doubt about asking for cakes means that water leads to cakes."
Qi Min Yao Shu records the practice of "drawing cakes with water": "Sift the noodles with fine silk to make the meat juice, and hold it in a cold pan. When the water is drawn, it is pressed as big as a foot, and the plate is filled with water. It is advisable to put your hands on it, knead it to make it as thin as leek leaves, and boil it. " First, knead it to a length as thick as chopsticks and a foot long, and then knead it on the edge of the pot until it is as thin as leek leaves. At this time, the slice is similar to lasagna.
things in the past said: "Shu Xi's" cake fu "said:' when facing things, cook wheat for noodles.' Then the name of the face, the cover has come out since then. Wei Shi ate soup cakes, and since the Jin Dynasty, there has been a name of "not trusting", which means "not trusting", so the service is simple because of soup cakes. Today, it is mistaken for' Jia Wei', and it is also straight. "Gao Cheng's statement, after being called" no trust ",is close to the later noodles. "Don't trust" is said to be created by those who don't trust, which is about speculation of future generations. Gao Cheng added: "In the Wei and Jin Dynasties, the world still ate soup cakes, but now it is also necessary to ask for cakes.
There are hot soup cakes made by Wei Wendi and He Yan in Yu Lin, which are from the Han and Wei Dynasties. " The story of He Yan in Yu Lin actually originated from Shi Shuo Xin Yu Rong Zhi: "Uncle He Ping (that is, He Yan) has a beautiful posture, and his face is white, but Wei Mingdi suspects that he is rich in powder. Xia Yue, with hot soup cakes. But when the juice comes out, I wipe it with a red coat and the color turns to Jiao Ran. " In this story, He Yan, the grandson of Minister He Jin of the Han Dynasty, was adopted by Cao Cao with his mother. He was less famous for his talent show and married Princess Wei. He was a famous metaphysicist in the Three Kingdoms period. He Yan is a handsome man. Wei Mingdi suspected that his face was white because of powder, so he invited him to eat soup cakes on a hot day. He Yan ate profusely, so he wiped his sweat with red sleeves. As a result, the face is white and red, and it is more radiant.
Shu Xi's "Cake Fu" says that soup cakes should be eaten in winter: "It's very cold in the middle of winter, and in the early morning, the nose is frozen with tears and the mouth is frosted. Filling the void and solving the war, soup cake is the most. " The "Cake Fu" also exaggeratedly describes the greedy face of the servant when he waits on his master to eat soup cakes: "Pedestrians are dripping in the wind, and children are looking forward to it. Those who hold the container lick their lips and make the waiter dry his throat. " It serves to show that eating soup cakes at that time was only the enjoyment of the rich.
by the time of Jin dynasty, the soup cakes had become thin strips. Shu Xizhi's "On Fu" describes the scene of the soup cake: "So the fire fills the soup, and the steam is fierce, which vibrates the clothes and dresses. Holding the word "drowning" instead of holding the hand, the face is higher than the tip of the finger, and the hands are staggered, and they are refuted one after another, and the stars are scattered. " Shu Xi called the soup cake "weak as spring cotton, white as autumn practice."
Hou Geng's interpretation of "Ode to Evil Bread" has the sentence that "Wang Sun sighed in the slow mood, while Shu Zi's ode was weaker than that of spring cotton", and Fu Xuan's "Seven Mo" has "the sum of the three animals, and the face of the guests". Suddenly, you swim and lead, and the flight feathers are thin and thin, as thin as the thread of Shu cocoon, as thin as the thread of Lu Mao, as thin as the thread of Shu cocoon, as thin as the thread of Zeng Mao, which is already very thin. In the Tang Dynasty, noodles were still called "no support".
Yan Fan Lu said that soup cakes were cooked in the palm of your hand before being drilled with a knife. The knife and drill are both available, but the cloud' does not trust', and the words are not supported by the palm. " Its variety, in the Tang Dynasty, added a kind of "cold scouring". Du Fu's poem "Cold Scouring of Sophora Leaves" reads: "Green and high Sophora leaves are picked and decorated in the cupboard. The teeth are colder than snow, so advise people to vote for this pearl. "
Tang Liu Dian Guanglu VVVV Temple: "Make soup cakes and millet [moon huo] in winter, and Xia Yue cold-scoured and powdered porridge." "Taiping Guangji" 39 "Fairy Biography Liu Yan" quoted "Yi Shi": "At the beginning of spring, the scenery was warm, and it was very clean to eat a cold dish, such as coriander and wormwood." Later generations tested "cold scouring", that is, "cold noodles with water". Qing Pan Rongbi's Summer Solstice: "The capital is so cold that Japanese furniture eats noodles, that is, it is said that the water surface is also." In the Song Dynasty, noodles were officially called noodles, and besides cooking in soup, there were other methods, such as frying, [changing the word "regret" into "fire edge" (stewing) and frying. In addition, the noodles began to add various toppings of meat and vegetables. The noodles recorded in the Dream of Tokyo in Bianjing have Sichuan flavor, such as "noodles with meat" and "noodles with fire", and southern flavor, such as "Huimian Noodles cooked with tung skin". Menglianglu recorded famous pasta pieces in the Southern Song Dynasty, including "Hunting sheep cup (pronounced as an) raw noodles", "Silk chicken noodles", "Three fresh noodles", "Fish tung skin noodles", "Salt fried noodles", "Bamboo shoots splashed with meat noodles", "Fried chicken noodles", "Boiled noodles" and "Poured shrimp with sub-materials"
Old Stories of Wulin also recorded "a large area of spread sheep noodles", "fried eel noodles", "rolled fish noodles", "spicy noodles with bamboo shoots" and "washed noodles with bamboo shoots". After the noodles matured, dried noodles appeared. The first written record of dried noodles in ancient books is "Eating and Eating is Just About" written by Hu Sihui, a Yuan Dynasty: "Dried noodles supplement the middle and replenish qi. One foot of mutton and six pounds of dried noodles. Half a catty of mushrooms, five fried chicken eggs, one or two pieces of bad ginger and one or two pieces of melon. The right piece is mixed with pepper, salt and vinegar in the clear juice. " This is a method of cooking vermicelli with mutton, mushrooms and eggs, which shows that vermicelli existed before Hu Sihui.
"Eating and Drinking" was written in the third year of the Yuan Dynasty, that is, in 1331 AD. So when was vermicelli invented? According to the examination of modern people, Song Lizong Chunyou〕 (right, pronounced you) recorded in Yu Feng Zhi written by Ling Wanqing and Bian Shi in the 11th year of 1911 (A.D. 1251): "The medicine chess surface is only one minute thin, and it is as thin as paper, which can be fed from afar. Although everyone is rich and expensive, they also strive for it. " Some scholars believe that this kind of "medicine chess noodles" is the earliest dried noodles. In fact, it has long been recorded in Qi Min Yao Shu: "Just knead the noodles and make them familiar. Make a big preparation, knead it into a cake, the thickness is like a little finger, and it is heavy in the face. Knead more, such as thick fat, cut off and cut into squares. Pow off the bob and steam it in the retort. The gas distillation is exhausted, and it falls on the shady net table, which makes it cold. Extremely scattered, don't stick together, and the bag is full. You must cook the soup immediately, don't pour it, it's firm but not muddy. " This kind of chess face, shaped like a chess piece, is steamed and dried in the shade, then spread on a clean mat in the shade, then stored in a pocket for a long time, taken out when eating, boiled in boiling water, mixed with gravy, and tough but not rotten to eat.
The "medicine chess face" in Yu Feng Zhi is obviously different from the "chess face" in Qi Min Yao Shu. It is only one minute (that is, 3.3 mm) wide, and it seems that it is a slender noodle, not a piece-sized piece. It was produced in Kunshan County, Pingjiang Prefecture, and it could be transported to Hangzhou, the capital at that time, and became a favorite gift of aristocratic bureaucrats. It seems that it already has the characteristics of medical treatment and health care. The record of pulled noodles was first seen in Song's Health Department written by Xu in the Ming Dynasty: "Pull noodles": "Mix noodles with less salt, and one catty is the rate. Even, with a little sesame oil, the summer moon is covered with oil sheets for a while, the winter moon is covered for a night, and the rest is cut like a giant. Gradually, it is stretched with both hands and entangled between the direct finger, the general finger and the ring finger, which is a thin strip. Boil the soup first, cook it with the pull, and take it first if it is cooked and floats first. The soup is the same as before. " In Xue Baochen's Brief Introduction to Vegetarianism, it is also called "framed noodles": "It is made by mixing noodles with water, adding salt, alkali and clear oil, kneading them evenly, covering them with wet cloth, and once they are mixed, tearing them into thin strips and cooking them, it is called" framed noodles ". The best methods are Pingding Prefecture in Taiyuan, Shanxi, Chaoyi and Tongzhou in Shaanxi. Its book is equal to leek, and its fineness is thinner than dried noodles. It can be shaped into a triangular shape or a hollow shape. It is resistant to continuous cooking, soft and tough, and it is really wonderful. " Daoxiao Noodles is also called "noodle cutting".
A Brief Introduction to Vegetarianism by Xue Baochen in Qing Dynasty: "Noodles are sliced": "Noodles are hard and should be kneaded more, and the softer the better. It is interesting to make long pieces in the palm of your hand, cut thin slices with a sharp knife, boil them in boiling water, and pour them with soup or brine. Pingyao, Jiexiu and other places have done a good job. " Noodles are made in various ways. As far as celebrities are concerned, Yuan Mei and Li Yu have their own noodle making theories. Yuan Zicai thinks that "it's probably better to make noodles with more soup than to see each other in a bowl." He is best at making "eel noodles". Take a big eel, remove the meat and bone and boil the soup. Add chicken juice, ham juice and mushroom juice to the soup, and a large bowl of soup with very little noodles. Li Daiweng is extremely opposed to this practice. He said: "Southerners eat sliced noodles, and their ingredients such as oil, salt, sauce and vinegar are all in the noodle soup. Soup is delicious and tasteless, which is the most important thing for people. It is not in the soup, but in the soup, and it is also like eating noodles. " He said that when he made noodles, he was "reconciling all things with noodles, masking five flavors, while soup was pure." If this party is eating noodles, it is not drinking soup. " There are two kinds of noodles he created, one is "spiced noodles" and the other is "eight treasures noodles". "Spiced noodles" are for personal use, and "Bazhen noodles" are used to treat guests. "Spiced? Sauce, vinegar, pepper powder, sesame chips, fresh juice of bamboo shoots or boiled mushrooms and shrimps. First, mix the minced pepper and sesame seeds into the noodles, and then mix the sauce, vinegar and fresh juice into one place, that is, fill the noodles with water, and do not use any more water. Mixing should be extremely uniform, rolling should be extremely thin, and cutting should be extremely fine. Then pour it in boiling water, and the essence will be in the noodles, and you will chew it as much as possible. Unlike ordinary people who sandwich noodles, the noodles will be swallowed straight, and the soup will be vomited. " "Eight treasures? The meat of chicken, fish and shrimp, wine (suspected to be the mistake of sun drying) makes it extremely dry, and with fresh bamboo shoots, mushrooms, sesame seeds and pepper, * * * becomes the end of the pole and enters the noodles, and with fresh juice, * * * is eight kinds. " Li Yu said that for this "eight treasures noodles", the meat of chicken and fish must be refined, and those who are slightly greasy can't use it. You don't need broth for fresh juice, you should use bamboo shoots, mushrooms or shrimp juice, because the noodles will disperse at the sight of oil, and you can't roll them into pieces or cut them into silk. It is more appropriate to add one or two cups of egg whites to the juice of noodles.
People who are called "Yi Fu Mian" are actually created by a chef who moved to Yi Bingshou by Qing Gan. Yi Bingshou's word group looks like Mo Qing, which is of good taste. When he was an official in Huizhou, because he liked noodles, the chef made improvements according to his instructions. "Yifu Noodle" is made of eggs and flour, cooked until it is 81% cooked, fished out, mixed with sesame oil, and fried until golden. Then simmer with chicken soup, put it in a plate, and pour with sea cucumber, shrimp and magnolia slices. In the early folk custom, there was only the saying of eating noodles in the daytime.
The Chronicle of Jingchu's Age in the Northern Qi Dynasty: "In the twilight of June, soup cakes are made, which are called evil." As for the custom of eating noodles on birthdays, it seems that it began in "The Queen of the Tang Dynasty": "A Zhong takes off his purple arm, and Yi Dou noodles are birthday soup cakes." This Ah Zhong took off his clothes and changed his noodles in order to make birthday soup cakes. Why does he have to eat birthday soup cakes? Because in ancient times, boys were called "the joy of playing tricks" (Zhang: Baoyu, "The Book of Songs Xiaoyasi Gan": "Every man is born with a bed for sleeping, a dress for clothes, and a trick." ）。
in the Tang dynasty, it was a custom to hold a soup-cake feast to congratulate Zhang. Liu Yuxi has a poem "A Gift to Jinshi Zhang Xi": "I remember my lonely day, and I am a guest. Give a toast to eating soup cakes and add Kirin. " Su Dongpo has "Happy Birthday": "I really want to be a soup cake guest, but I am worried about writing Nongzhang by mistake." Why did you have to be a "soup cake guest" and eat soup cakes in the Tang Dynasty? In the book Lazy True Son, Ma Yongqing of the Song Dynasty thought that "those who must eat soup and cakes will want to live a long life." Noodles, at that time, have become a symbol of wishing newborn boys a long life. This secular tradition has been passed down, and China people will eat noodles on their birthdays.
the origin of eating noodles on birthdays.