history
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Eating fish in Hengxian has been around since ancient times. According to the records of Hengzhou during the Qianlong period of Qing Dynasty, the earliest people who ate fish were the ancestors of Hengxian who lived on both sides of Yujiang River thousands of years ago. There is a charming folklore. According to legend, Dong Jing lived in Denggaoling in the Jin and Yuan Dynasties. One day, Dong Jing and his younger brother and sister went boating to enjoy the moon, and suddenly they saw a fairy coming from a fork in the road. Dong Jing invited guests, and the immortal said that he would not drink cooked food and left without saying goodbye. Shu brothers and sisters went into the mountains to find out, and met the immortal in the cave. The fairy entertained them with jade liquid, nectar and sashimi. Later, the brother and sister listened to the fairy's advice. Since then, the reputation of fish in Hengxian County has been greatly improved and spread to this day.
Hengxian county Yusheng
"There are many delicious foods in the world, but it is said that chinese odyssey, with its delicious beauty, is also a fish in Hengxian County. Ordinary people eat diced food and think of delicacies ... "Raw fish should be the first food in Hengxian County, which can be called" county food ". The fish production in Hengxian County is a true portrayal of the life of ancient fishermen and a product of river economy. Yujiang River is an important water system in Hengxian County. The water is clear and swift, and the tail of fresh fish in the river is muscular and delicious. Snakehead, a carnivorous and vigorous fish from Yujiang River, is the best fish, and the omnivorous bamboo carp is the top fish.
Mei, a famous poet in the Northern Song Dynasty, loves to eat raw fish, so her family also supports a female expert. His poem "Set the stage to show off guests" said: "My young woman is sharpening a treasure knife, and the scales are broken and her wings are about to fly. The rustling clouds fall on the plate, and the frost is a wisp of clothes. " The craft, color, taste and shape of sketching fish are amazing.
It is said that at least 500 years ago, raw fish was a "feast" in Hengxian County. This is the life needs of grass-roots fishermen, but it has become a "banquet", but it has become a treasure in the banquet for court officials to enjoy. In the first year of Hongzhi (1488), Jinshi Zhou of the Ming Dynasty became the deputy history of the Guangxi Department. His seven-tune "Deng Chun Ye Ting" vividly describes the cultural origin and historical background of the deep source of fish in Hengxian County: "I have been observing the wind and five tubes for many years. Every time I go to Nanning, my eyes suddenly open, and there are thousands of green trees in the suburbs. Sang Ma is ten miles away from Pingchuan, and the jade grains are waist-high with a spoon, while the catfish cuts the silver thread and shrinks. The scenery in Sri Lanka is also good, why bother to suffer from being less noble? " It is said that from then on, it is also a great invention of Zhou officials to call raw fish "crosscutting".
The fish in Hengxian County was originally a helpless move by fishermen who fished for a living on Yujiang River in Hengxian County in order to cope with life. There is no oil, salt, sauce and vinegar, so you can only eat it raw. Unexpectedly, this "grassroots" eating method full of fishermen's bitterness has gradually evolved into a well-known traditional dish after the vicissitudes of the world. 20 13, Nanning municipal government has listed "Yuxian Yusheng" as the second batch of intangible cultural heritage protection list in Nanning.
trait
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Although there are many places to eat fish in the world, Hengxian fish is unique in the world. If nothing else, I have made great efforts in the words "planting, strong, white, thin, thick and fresh".
Hengxian county Yusheng
grow
When eating raw fish, we should choose the fish species: snakehead (snakehead), bamboo fish, mandarin fish (mandarin fish), grass carp, carp, shad and so on. , can be processed into raw fish. Only the wild snakehead (snakehead) with thick meat, sweet and crisp meat and few thorns is the best, followed by bamboo fish-freshwater fish, such as semi-fish. Another way of saying it is that the best raw fish, whether salty or fresh, semi-salty or semi-light, are river crabs (especially in the breeding season every spring, as evidenced by ancient poems: peach blossoms outside the bamboo, duck prophets warm the spring river. Artemisia selengensis is full of short buds, which is the time for the river bream to rise.
force
The advantage is that fish should be strong and chewy. The muscle quality of fish is very important for raw fish, which determines the taste of fish. If the fish is strong, it will be juicy in the mouth, and the more you chew it, the better it will taste. If the fish is as weak as a beat, you won't feel the pleasure of chewing, and it tastes like chewing wax. Generally, raw fish are kept in ponds, which lack vitality and taste much worse. The raw fish in Hengxian County are all the original ecological live fish in Yujiang River. Yujiang River is the mainstream water system in Hengxian County, with rapid flow and great influence. The tail muscles of the fresh fish produced are particularly developed, and the taste is naturally the best. So be sure to choose the one with strong muscles as the best.
Based on the above two points, the wild flower fish (snakehead) and bamboo fish produced by Yujiang River are naturally the best and trump cards in fish life.
white
White means that the fish is as white as snow, exquisite and considerable, and the skin lines of the fish are delicate. If you want to turn white, you should put the blood clean. The best person should cut his cheek and put it into the water after cutting it, so that the fish will not die immediately but bleed in the water. A few minutes later, the blood killed the fish, and the fish was as white as snow and the jade color was threatening. You can also cut off the tail of the fish and let the blood of the fish drip naturally, but the meat is white and inferior.
Hengxian Fish (16)
filmy
Thin means that fish fillets should be cut as thin as cicada wings to be easy to taste. If you want to cut thin slices, you must prepare an extremely fast knife, with your left thumb and forefinger pressing the fish and your right hand holding the knife. The knife and the fish form an angle of 45, and the blade faces the chopping block. Depending on the position, if you cut it obliquely, the feathers will slide down and you can get thin slices. Open it and see, fine visible words, top grade, invisible words, defective products. Spread into the dish, like a flying butterfly, like a blooming flower, fascinating and beautiful.
thick
The types of seasonings must be rich and thick to suppress the fishy smell and appreciate the delicious taste of raw fish. Onion, ginger, garlic, fish, lettuce, Chili oil, salt, sauce and vinegar are essential basic ingredients. On this basis, more than 20 kinds of unique diced papaya, lemon, lemon leaf, onion, diced horseradish and shredded taro were added to raw fish in Hengxian County. , plus more than 30 kinds of fresh ingredients such as peanut oil, soy sauce and pepper in Hengxian County, and * * * * are Ye Tao sashimi. Put a handful of fresh ingredients, a piece of raw fish wrapped in your mouth, spicy and sour, the smell is extremely shocking, and the taste buds are greatly stimulated. Suddenly, your mouth is full of saliva.
do handwork
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The uniqueness of the production of sashimi in Hengxian lies in material selection, knife work and plate setting. First of all, to make raw fish, you should choose wild mandarin fish, flower fish, shad, bamboo tube fish and other river fish in Yujiang, and do not advocate using cultured pond fish. At the same time, raw materials must be fresh, fresh, clean and pollution-free.
Hengxian county Yusheng
Most of the raw fish produced in Hengxian County use bamboo tube fish. Because the fish skin is crisp, the meat is firm, and the meat is delicate and elastic. There is an idiom called "a wonderful pen gives birth to flowers". Watching Cui Yong cook sashimi is simply a kind of enjoyment, which makes people feel that she has the unique skill of "flying knives to make flowers". A lively river fish, first stun the fish with the back of a knife, remove gills, cut tail and scale. Then, hang the fish head up and the fish tail down on the hook for 8 to 10 minutes. This process is very important. At this time, the fish is dizzy and not dead, so it is necessary to release all the fish blood. After that, take the fish and skin it. Put the fish on a dry and flat chopping board, cut off the fish from the ridge and cut off the fish on both sides. Never open your stomach when picking fish, because the fish's internal organs will pollute the fish. Peeling fish skin is also very particular. Generally, the fish skin is gently cut from the tail, and then the fish skin is grabbed and pulled hard to peel off the whole fish skin. After peeling the fish, wrap the fish in clean gauze for several minutes, and suck up the water and residual blood from the fish. This will make the fish crystal clear.
The key to making sashimi is knife work. Put a large piece of fish on the chopping block, gently cut a piece of fish as thin as wings with a knife, and then cut a second piece between the broken and unbroken fish with a knife. The second knife should be cut off, so that the two fish are one. After opening, two pieces of fish are butterfly-shaped. The thinner the fish is cut, the more it can reflect the chef's skill. Skillfully cut fish fillets are neat, smooth and beautiful. After cutting the fish fillets, put them on a dry plate, just like an ice sculpture jade butterfly spreading its wings. According to the popular local standards, only a master who can cut each fillet evenly into about 3mm thick and weigh between 8- 10g can be called a real master and be qualified to set up a shop to teach.
Mixing of ingredients
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The sashimi in Hengxian is famous for its exquisite knife work, exquisite ingredients and diverse varieties. The ingredients are more than 20 kinds of houttuynia cordata, lemon, perilla leaf, mint leaf, seaweed, shredded ginger, shredded carrot, lime, garlic and sour ginger. Eating raw fish in Hengxian will make you not know how to eat chopsticks. Because several plates of fish fillets in different parts are put together with a plate of colorful ingredients, it is simply a work of art, not to mention that eating in the mouth is a kind of enjoyment, and the ingredients should be cut as thin as hair and a little bit uniform in size. The cut ingredients are placed in a round or diamond-shaped plate specially used for raw fish. The periphery of the plate is divided into a triangular grid, and the center of the plate is round. Colorful ingredients are placed on the plate, making people reluctant to eat chopsticks. Exquisite modeling and decoration are also a major feature of Hengxian fish. White porcelain plates are often used as containers for sashimi, usually with exquisite shapes such as round, diamond, boat or fan, to set off raw fish with crystal clear, clear lines and distinct layers.
Hengxian county Yusheng
In addition, you need good sauce to eat raw fish beautifully. It is mainly made of peanut oil, soy sauce and pepper. Peanut oil lubrication, soy sauce seasoning, pepper is to reconcile the coldness of raw fish and warm the stomach. These ingredients can not only be used for decoration and embellishment, but also have the effects of removing fishy smell, enhancing freshness and appetizing.
Diner review
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Put a handful of fresh ingredients, a piece of sashimi wrapped in your mouth, spicy and sour, pungent fragrance, extremely shocking sense of smell, greatly stimulated taste buds, suddenly full of saliva, spewing out, muscle spasm, teeth can not help chewing. I saw tongues flying, rivers rolling, flowers flying, fresh and sweet fish raw, and fierce ingredients. I only feel that the fragrance is overflowing, the teeth and cheeks are fragrant, and the sound is lingering for three days. I have repeatedly lamented that this song should only exist in the sky, and it can be won several times on earth.