Early in the morning, after eating noodles, noodles, buns, doughnuts, scallion pancakes, steamed dumplings, Changsha "old sparrows", each with a cup of hot tea, either in the store, or under the tree, in piles of small talk.
What policy, electric car better than gasoline car, grandchildren in high school, grandchildren play the zither prize, and so on and so forth, is the Changsha whiners after breakfast, the favorite group gathering activities.
From the point of view of market changes, Hunan cuisine by the influence of Cantonese cuisine is quite large, especially since 2019, envy of the Lao Guang morning tea culture more and more, Hedong in the vicinity of Lincoln University, Hedong in the vicinity of the University City, what Liu Ji, Chen Ji, old port, Guangdong morning and so on the morning tea store more than a few.
However, these two "strongholds" of Cantonese-style restaurant owners are often Shaoyang or Chenzhou people, the menu not only has shrimp dumplings, intestinal noodles, wonton noodles, and spicy beef noodle, fish noodle and chili pepper fried meat with rice. It's really a case of "eight immortals crossing the sea, each showing their skills".
In 2007, I went to college in Xingsha, there is a Chen Ji intestinal noodles, the owner is really Guangzhou people, store is not big, the product is good. The first time to eat intestinal noodles, the first time to find pig liver intestinal noodles is really delicious, the texture of the pig liver inside is far from Hunan cuisine, more tender pig liver. Fresh pig liver is the owner of the morning from the slaughterhouse to buy back, almost still see the hot air.
The whole liver is cleaned, cut into slices, and then cleaned again until there is no blood, put aside. This store pig liver intestinal noodles is not add lettuce and eggs, pure pig liver, want to eat before it is too late.
Waiting for the first pot to open, the thick rice paste on the liver spread into thin slices, put into the steam drawer just waiting for the boss to count silently, and then quickly pulled out and rolled into powder, crystal clear powder skin wrapped in a slightly pink liver, dripping with Cantonese "cooked soy sauce", the taste is particularly delicious.
Unfortunately, the second month on the closure of the go, listening to the next door Internet cafe owner said, is his girl graduated, the whole family back to Guangzhou.
But it seems that in Changsha, in Hunan, Cantonese breakfast is always not recognized. Big restaurants open and close, unpredictable, not to mention the small store, dry for a few months a few "conical place".
Today, I found a good store, tomorrow may be closed down. Therefore, I often tell those who ask me to eat what phoenix claw, pork ribs, pork belly, beef meatballs, beef leaves, rolls, shrimp dumplings, dry steamed siu mai, scallop dumplings, friends, "Do not look at the Cantonese morning pattern, the most is the rice noodles get my heart.
From 2016 onwards, no matter whether it is self media or traditional media, almost all of them are talking about Hunan's powder, Changde beef powder, Hengyang tube bone powder, Chenzhou Qifengdu fish powder, Shaoyang beef powder, to name a few.
Old friends from Beijing, from Shanghai, from Sichuan, in short, from all directions to it, always have to learn a lame "paint round drop paint flat drop", open and close the mouth will always ask "when you take me to 'shagging powder!
After a few years, I've been able to get a lot of work done on my own.
After a few years of evolution, "shaifan" has almost become synonymous with Changsha, shaifan in the morning, climbing Mount Yuelu in the morning, eat chili pepper fried meat at noon, a cup of tea Yan Yue color, afternoon stroll Orange Island head, eat chopped pepper fish head in the evening, eat grilled butter and then a cup of tea Yan Yue color, ho, the perfect day.
In this way, it seems that the powder is indeed in the whole of Hunan "breakfast world" has an unshakeable position, but wherever in the province to play around, a bowl of powder in the morning, can be more important than anything else. Maybe it's because of the mountains and the water, eat some "soup" in the morning, you can "warm all day".
In April 2020, the Jiuzhao Hotel held a "Hunan Rice Vermicelli Tournament", and although the epidemic had not long passed, the enthusiasm for eating the noodles was particularly high, and almost every day was a sea of people.
Later, looking at everyone so much like eating powder, the government simply in the leek garden built a "Hunan rice noodle street", almost all over the name of the local brand name of the powder store, such as Changde YiDeYi, Hengyang ZizhuLin, Xiangtan Bayiqiao and so on.
In October, at the dinner table, I met a chef from Yangzhou who came to Changsha to study, and the 20-year-old brother was particularly interested in Hunan noodles, and the crowd was drinking and talking about Hunan noodles.
In Yangzhou, rice flour often appear in powder form, the traditional Yangzhou pastry, rice products for "rice as a noodle" Hunan cuisine is very different, common eight treasures rice, small round muffin, eight treasures glutinous rice chicken, lotus seed blood glutinous rice, the most famous Yangzhou fried rice.
In fact, Hunan rice noodles, we often divided into several categories, Hengyang, Chenzhou, such as fine powder-based category, Shaoyang coarse powder counts as a category, the rest of the powder is only divided into conventional handmade powder and machine powder.
However, in Hunan, the grain province, all the rice flour selection is basically early indica rice, but the fermentation process is different, fine powder fine and slippery, coarse powder hard and elastic, the other powders are similar, can not escape from the tenderness, slippery, smooth and so on.
So, most of our common powder store, focusing on the "yard", that is, we say "topping".
Most of the stores yard to beef, pork-based, Hengyang common soup color milky fish flour, soup fresh meat tender; Chenzhou fish flour reputation, eating is the taste of oil soup in the fine powder under the hostage, all the flavor into the mouth; Changsha Powder is the essence of shredded meat powder, broth mellow, rice noodles tender. Rotten street so-called "Jin City Beef Noodle" common braised and spicy, small stores will not do, all rely on deep-fried beef butter soup to save their lives, the old store such as One De One, Liu Deaf, braised beef noodle is a representative of the soup color is clear, the aftertaste, "bright soup" features all accounted for, which has good imitators. The good thing is that the imitation.
Of course, in Changsha, eat more or Changsha flavor. The first thing I'd like to say is that I don't know what to say, but I'd like to say that I'm not sure if I'm going to be able to do it, and I'd like to be able to say that I don't know what to say. ", eat more yards said "double yards", want to drink more soup said "wide soup", less on the "buckle soup", there are many more, but just a few, the boss always The boss will not take you as outsiders, and then learn Wang Han He Gui a mouthful of "Sopo", that is considered to be into the local customs.
A while ago I went to the net red powder store Liu Baiwei eat their signature spicy chicken dry noodles, taste very "Changsha". Beef noodle will add sauerkraut, do not put cilantro put celery, heavy salt and heavy oil, most of the marketplace powder store, the signature spicy shredded chicken is a chicken breast shredded, add green and red pepper section fried, before leaving the pot will add pepper oil to increase the flavor.
Just out of the pot of spicy shredded chicken yards and even chili peppers are bubbling with oil, dry noodles pads underneath the rapid stirring scattered, in the process of stirring the noodles in the chicken, chili peppers and noodles will slowly merge together, the bottom of the bowl of lard with soy sauce aroma is also puffed up.
Clip a chopstick noodles, to be with cooked chili and spicy chicken breast, do not suck a mouthful to the end, will certainly choke the throat. Eat to the right amount, and then a bite off, the rest of the noodle yards then carry, until you eat the net last noodle, the bowl should only be left inside some chili, that is called addictive.
However, although the powder is delicious, perennial day long, always thinking of changing tastes, that bite of oil and soft noodle buns is the right choice.
The most representative of this is the bamboo shoots dried meat buns.
In the 1970s and 1980s, during the Dragon Boat Festival in Changsha, the old Changsha people's favorite food was the most common buns nowadays, compared to the zongzi.
In the past, Changsha had a silver garden restaurant, bamboo shoots dried meat buns is the signature, I went to Wang Shiliang's house to buy buns, he told me in the past, the silver garden every Dragon Boat Festival, the most popular is the sale of meat buns, rice dumplings who ate ah, family festivals have eaten buns, which can really let me grow eyesight.
Changsha people love to eat buns, directly spawned the birth of the chain brand "Deyuan Baozi", in Changsha city, almost every neighborhood in front of the door there is a Deyuan Baozi, there are delicious, there are not good, it should depend on the day of the master to do the buns in a good mood, right.
The old Changsha buns also have soup, but it's an oil soup, and the trick is the diced lard wrapped in the filling. A mouthful of down, do beware of the oil soup flow to the clothes, oil soup hot, buns inside the wall is full of lard flavor, do not like the oil can pour out some of the siu mai clip broken dipped in lard to eat, hey, times more fragrant.
Zhongshan Pavilion has an old Qingquan Pavilion, no matter what time to go, the queue can always row four or five meters to go, in previous years to buy buns are mostly old men and women, and now even the hair dyed green, "fashionable trendsetters" also joined the queue to buy buns army.
Everyone is usually a bag of twenty or thirty buns to buy, go home and put in the refrigerator, take out the breakfast time to put the steamer to heat up a little bit, and then with a cup of boiling hot soybean milk, the United States!
The only problem is that such a bun overnight, the oil soup will soak into the crust, then inside and outside are oil, and some of the greasy, so it is best to buy a bun store semi-finished products, want to eat when taken out of the thawing fermentation, and then on the pot steam, delicious not lost.
There are many people who are not used to eating salt and vegetable sugar buns, salty and sweet. When I was a kid, I didn't like to eat, either salt and vegetable buns or sugar buns, put together to eat, that really is to Changsha to open the eyes.
Mr. Zhu, who has gray hair, told me, "When I was a child, there was no salt and sugar buns, when we were young, we just ate half of the salt and vegetable buns, half of the sugar buns, and then disliked the two halves of the bun into a bun to eat, and when I think about it now, I really don't understand why I ate it so much at that time."
In 2019, there is a Shanxi shumai brand into Changsha, that is really "swallowed ten thousand miles like a tiger", there are mutton shumai, beef shumai and vegetarian sanshuang shumai. The flavor can be awesome, but unfortunately, the "Teabag" Changsha diners do not buy the account, but half a year, basically all out of the Hunan market, even the splash did not rise up.
It seems that all of Hunan are more in love with eating oily glutinous rice siu mai, "Chao Pai Street" of "Ma Taitai" siu mai has the most Changsha characteristics, a mouthful of down, the aroma of soy sauce pungent nose, rich lard moistened with every grain of glutinous rice, this one! This is a "carb bomb" that makes you feel better when you eat it. Every time you go to the early morning, the boss sold out of the pots can not be sold. Nearby Wuhan further, the oil cake package siu mai, really "carbohydrate paradise".
However, compared to the north of the flower of the siu mai, Changsha siu mai skin often will not be very complete, one siu mai skin will be rolled very thin, two siu mai stuffing to give more and will not close the mouth, so that the steam out of the siu mai skin is easy to pinch the broken, so you have to hurry to eat a big mouth.
In 2004, J.J. Lin sang a song called "Soy Milk Doughnuts", star-struck young people have begun to eat up the soy milk doughnuts up, in fact, the same year there is a news report, to eat less doughnuts, because the oil to fry the doughnuts is reused.
And a lot of doughnuts in order to fry appear fluffy, good-looking, will increase the proportion of alum added, eat more will be harmful to health. But the result is that more eating doughnuts. It can be seen that in the diet, the star effect is more influential than the scientific explanation.
Hunan eat deep-fried goods, in addition to doughnuts, common onion oil poop and sugar cake, onion oil poop actually do less people, mainly because the rice paste is not good, and not than the doughnuts, cold doughnuts, soaked in congee, soup, or simply under the hot pot, that's how delicious it.
Scallion oil poop can not, we have to eat fresh, crisp and crispy, just fish up the poop on the oil net filter oil, after a few seconds you can pick up and eat. A bite down, full of green onion flavor, the skin fried golden and fragrant, inside is instant high temperature steamed thick rice paste, can be more delicious than the doughnuts.
The crispy cake is really seen less, at first really do not understand, and then see Mr. Jiang Yan did once, only to know that this cake if any stall to sell this, the boss must be exhausted.
First of all, the pie crust embryo, is dry shortening and wet shortening mixed kneaded into a 20 embryo at least to knead a more than ten minutes, until the shortening folded, rolled flat, and then folded, and then rolled flat, and finally rolled into an ellipse, cold oil in the pan, fried to golden crispy fish up, and do not need to re-fry.
Crispy cake since my company downstairs after the demolition of the old folk house, no longer on the market ate crispy cake, occasionally think of it, but also to find familiar cooks to do two to solve the craving for, the effort of God.
Now that the market has developed, the types of breakfast has become more, in previous years, breakfast is called to eat the best, now the breakfast pattern variety, thanks to the birth of prepared food, similar to Shanshan, the whole family, such as the chain of retail stores have begun to sell breakfast, not to mention the entry of more than ten years into the Chinese market, KFC, McDonald's. The first two years of the market have been the "healthy breakfast", and the first two years of the market have been the "healthy breakfast". They have been using "healthy breakfast" as a gimmick to launch a series of breakfast categories.
But for the Chinese, a taste is good, may be the most favorite to eat, only "my doorstep" of the breakfast store, perhaps, is all the Chinese people's favorite restaurant brand.