This restaurant just celebrated its 20th birthday. The eighth district is the bustling business district of Paris. Osman Avenue on Osman Avenue is close to Eglise St-Augustin Square in St Augustine's Church. People come and go during the day, but it is spacious and quiet at night. Two dim round vertical lights, like two moons, glow quietly at the entrance of the sommelier's restaurant.
Once in a while, when I open the door of the restaurant, the aroma of food and the noise of human voices suddenly gush out, like opening a bottle of good wine that has just been mellow, and the taste elves who can't help crying wander around and float in all directions.
The man who opens the door to greet you is a man who prefers boys to girls, with a bow tie and a golden grape brooch pinned to his outer collar. He smiled and kindly took you to your seat. Restaurant decoration is not particularly gorgeous, and it is not expensive. It is very noticeable that there are dozens of bottles of various spirits on the small table by the door. Looking up, countless transparent wine glasses above the bar are neatly upside down on the waiter's head, shining quietly like a bright crystal. There are some mouth-watering photos of food and wine hanging on the surrounding walls, and just enjoying them is very appetizing.
Another waiter, who also had a grape brooch pinned to his chest, came over, handed in the menu wine list, and then asked, "Would you like an aperitif, sir? When you are hesitant in all kinds of champagne, liqueur, spirits and bartending, someone brings a small appetizer, and the toast cut into palatable size is covered with black olive sauce tapenade, which exudes a faint charming olive fragrance. At this time, you might as well ask the waiter with a grape brooch: What kind of appetizer should toast with black olive sauce taste?
More than half of the waiters in this restaurant are professional sommeliers with grape brooches on their chests. Every day, they interpret the creativity of taste for the guests who come here, those who know wine and those who don't. And the soul of the restaurant is the owner Philips.
Jiushishi restaurant
The boss, Philips, has gray hair and slightly curly hair, which is the same as the crow's feet radian in the corner of his eyes. There is a big beard on the chin, which is also gray. The face was hidden in the gray hair, with a childlike smile, surprisingly gentle eyes and full of confidence.
Philippe Faure-bu jack's confident and charming face, Philippe Faure-Brac, probably appears in famous wine magazines all over the world, and anyone who is slightly familiar with wine will be familiar with the name. He is the winner of the title of 1992, the world's best sommelier Dumonde. This restaurant has a very unique position in Paris? The sommelier's restaurant? Soul figure. This is called. The sommelier's restaurant? Our restaurant is not only because the boss himself is a world-famous sommelier, but also because most of the restaurant service personnel are young sommeliers with formal licenses or internships. The service provided by the sommelier is the biggest feature of this restaurant.
The position of sommelier is not available in traditional Chinese restaurants, but it can be regarded as one of the value indicators in European and American catering circles. Even in a gourmet country with a high density of good restaurants like France, only high-end restaurants have professionals like sommeliers. For restaurant guests, if the chef is the person who creates the taste, then the sommelier is the person who weaves the imagination with the deep dialogue between the language of wine and the taste of food; For a restaurant, the sommelier is the person in charge of the wine treasure, and the value of this wine treasure is only clear to him.
Therefore, in European and American countries, the level of sommeliers is often a symbol of catering quality; The number of sommeliers in restaurants also marks the society's taste for exquisite food.
Who is the sommelier?
There was no full-time job as a sommelier in the Middle Ages. It was originally called Bete somme, which meant that the person in charge mainly served the princes, but they didn't just serve the wine. Their work was closer to the housekeeper, and many things had to be taken care of, and wine was just one of them. Bete somme is a person who has to bring a lot of things, maybe vegetables, tableware and, of course, wine. Basically, this is a job of serving food, but he also does a job of tasting food. Like ancient China, princes and ministers of that era could be poisoned, so people like gouteur, a sommelier, specially tried dishes for their hosts, also in B? Tessomme's scope of work Historically, many people in this industry were poisoned while trying to eat. Later, he was responsible for managing all wine-related affairs and gradually became independent. With Echanson, he became more and more responsible for wine. In the 20th century, when the division of labor was more detailed, sommeliers gradually became professional sommeliers. There were many sommeliers in the early 20th century, which was interrupted during the war. The sommelier's job was gradually recognized as an independent professional profession after World War II.
However, translating sommeliers into sommeliers may not be an accurate translation, because sommeliers today have more roles and responsibilities than in the past. Restaurants are not the only places where sommeliers are needed, and his job is not just to suggest how to match wine with dishes. "He should know the management of the wine cellar, the conditions of wine storage, the value and characteristics of wine, the composition of the wine list (corresponding to the menu), buying wine, storing wine, and giving suggestions to guests ... If he is Sommerier in the supermarket, he may need to know more about the consumption structure and the needs of consumer groups, so their work is closer." However, no matter what kind, sommeliers are the embodiment of wine professional knowledge, and they should master the consumption habits, tastes, food culture and taste trends of society ... "This is Philips' redefinition of modern sommeliers.
Because of his passion for wine and food, Philips founded this restaurant long before winning the title of the world's best sommelier, attracting guests with its excellent and rich wine collection and personal encyclopedia wine experience. This small restaurant, which is listed in the list of good wine restaurants around the world by the famous wine magazine "Wine Spectator" almost every year, does have guests who know how to appreciate good wine and know the value of sommeliers. This is a restaurant that fully combines cooking, wine and humanities at the food level. Even in Paris, such restaurants are rare. The sommelier is the protagonist of the delicious performance here and also the chef.
A mixture of interesting and interesting things.
The most common collocation of wine and vegetables is to use wine to enter the dish, adjust the sauce, and then use this wine to accompany and enjoy the dish. This combination is the least error-prone. For example, Coque au vin, a classic wine stewed chicken in French cuisine, is usually made from red wine from Givry-Chambertin in Bergen. The grape variety is black Pi Nuo, which is famous for its fruity, sour, elegant and delicate taste. However, there is white wine in Arsas to make this traditional dish, and the variety is Lisling, peach, apricot and other ginkgo flavors make this dish present a completely different flavor. When looking for a match to enjoy this delicious food, just know what kind of wine to cook with. However, this is just the common sense of wine and food collocation. In Philips restaurants, the mastery of taste is more superb, flexible, multifaceted and often interesting than this level.
Every time a new dish is introduced in the sommelier's restaurant, chefs Xavier and Philips will study the season, fresh ingredients on the market, current popular tastes and so on. They will consider wine collocation when designing the menu, instead of making dishes first and then looking for wine to match them. As for the principle of wine and vegetables, what is it? Taste the same? Complementary? Or balance? "It is not a single factor that determines the combination between food and wine, but a whole and many aspects. Philips said, "Sometimes it's just a conversation about aroma. For example, the aroma of violet flowers in wine is in interesting contrast with the burnt taste of barbecue. Sometimes, considering the taste, dishes with rich taste may look for wine with full taste; Fruity and mushroom-flavored dishes; Sometimes they are too heavy and greasy, so we hope to bring some refreshing wine; Or a dessert with fresh and sour wine. Sometimes a wine can go with two completely different dishes, even cheese. At this time, we can feel that wine has a completely different presentation and flavor in our taste buds, which is very interesting. 」
At this time, the sommelier's job is like playing a building block game. The taste is squares of different colors. How to combine them into a tangible, fashionable and distinctive body is the skill of the sommelier. The sommelier's restaurant has two kinds of set drinks, which are designed in this way. The set meal consists of 5-7 courses, each with a wine, of which? Temptation package? The tender menu shows the boldness and creativity of this restaurant in the collocation of wine and dishes. From time to time, it breaks the established rules and general taste habits, so that guests who think they are very familiar with wine from a certain place of origin or a certain ingredient often have rediscovered surprises after combining the two.
According to the season and Tibetan wine, the temptation package is a masterpiece of wine and food matching skills. Paired with the refreshing white wine brewed by Saint Pierre Winery in Saint Joseph's producing area in Longhe area in 2002 with three white grape varieties, Marchionne-Russion-viognier, it is full of hard mineral flavor and refreshing white flower aroma, and the cheese jiaozi raviolie royan mixed with garlic flavor and tomato sauce has a surprisingly smooth and light taste. The charming and delicate fragrance of Viognier's jasmine and passion fruit filled the room when the wine glass was served, and the slightly sour taste was sung with the tomatoes in the sauce, which was refreshing and overwhelming; Jiaozi's rich frankincense, faint garlic flavor and basil fragrance age make the wine that has become a little mellow and mineral in two years become rich and three-dimensional.
The first course of the main course, fried cod, is served with spice sauce and white wine in mashed potatoes, but Pi Nuo (geaute-pensiot) of Burgundy 2002, whose fruit aroma and sour taste are still very obvious in 2002, is used to highlight the slight cinnamon and cardamom spices in the sauce. The refreshing fruity taste and spicy sweetness are like the rehearsal of a wine from young to mature. Before and after the connection, the thread broke the myth that fish should be accompanied by white wine, and the faint red wine and heavy fish were more intriguing and lingering in the sauce.
The second main course is roasted quail meat. 100% Moroccan rose red wine brewed by Syrah set off the roast quail breast with rich meat flavor and slightly sweet caramel technology. This rose red is dominated by spices such as mint and pepper, and is made of soaked skin, although the color is rose red. Bleeding? Thain? Brewed in this way, the taste is closer to white wine, which also makes this game rough and elegant. The sauce is mixed with Parrabbi spice unique to North Africa, which is mysterious and charming, just like the desert flavor contained in the wine. If we taste together, it will be wonderful to meet a bosom friend.
Fish does not match red wine and red meat with white wine according to the brand, which subverts the general principle of matching wine and dishes, but the collocation is convincing, the spleen and stomach are comfortable, the wine is more mellow and the dishes are more delicious. Although it is not a noble brand winery, it has raised the essence of wine and the potential of food to a higher level.
The next cheese is St-Nectaire, slightly salty and harmonious, fig bread with black cherry jam, Cote de Bourg in Bordeaux in 2000. The black cherry jam and fig in the bread give the original salty Saint Nectar cheese a new balanced taste. There are mature frankincense in the coexistence of salty and sweet, and a little delicate taste of dried fruits such as hazelnuts and walnuts from time to time, which changes for no reason. This nearly four-year-old red wine has obvious coal flavor, which is in strange contrast with the sweetness and fruit acid of black cherry, just like a pair of half-sisters, with similarities and differences, but equally charming.
The last dessert is Arhabi card chocolate cake with coffee sauce Gateau de chocolate sauce. French chocolate pays attention to the high purity of cocoa, rich in taste and slightly bitter. This dessert chocolate is rich but refreshing, with a deep taste, a slight sandalwood aroma and a slightly sour fruit. It is the best French chocolate cake in itself. The young waitress brought a glass of sweet wine that looked like red wine at first glance. The aroma of raisins and candied dates can be intoxicating without drinking. After the entrance, the sweet and ripe cherries, strawberries and mulberries are released one by one, and the ending rhyme is like the preserves of pineapples and chestnuts. Then there is a touch of chocolate, which echoes the chocolate of the cake itself. It is absolutely auspicious in the taste of burnt fragrance, bitterness and fruit acid! It turns out that this is liqueur in the south of France, Risevelt in 2000. This kind of liqueur is little known, and white liqueur is more common. The taste of red sweet wine is close to Porto wine in Portugal, and it really doesn't lose Porter wine with bitter chocolate.
This set of temptation packages is really confusing. Each set is unexpected, but it is memorable.
A restaurant where few people will break into by mistake.
Ordinary people can easily simplify the role of sommelier to? A waiter who knows wine? This is looking down on the sommelier. The sommelier's job is actually more like the soundtrack of a movie, which can make a warm picture tense, a stimulating action doubly thrilling, or predict a sad and gentle ending. Sometimes the combination of wine and food lies in pointing out some hidden characteristics of wine or food, just like an outstanding music conductor, making the finishing point for an instrument in a hearty symphony.
? Few guests will break into our restaurant by mistake. ? Restaurant owner Phillip Foh-Bujack said with a smile. He thinks the most important thing is justice. "This is the most difficult. Of course, a bottle of Petrus is good, but not everyone can afford it, not every dish is suitable for matching, and not every guest needs such wine to satisfy. A sommelier should know how to be fair and how to find the most suitable match under various conditions. This is a good sommelier who takes advantage of his position. Don't make the guests feel uncomfortable and don't be prejudiced against them. This is the premise of our work. It is the purpose of the restaurant to let guests enjoy a pleasant and satisfactory meal. We just want to do more than satisfy our tastes. ]
Raise your appetite to spiritual satisfaction-this may be what Philips wanted to say but didn't say.
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