"Guangzhou is good, there are a lot of good things to eat it with the flavor. Boat congee, shrimp dumplings, barbecued pork pastry, noodles, ginger and scallions." Guangzhou Asian Food Festival opening ceremony of the cultural arts show, Dongshan young master of a song "Guangzhou good" for the Guangzhou authentic characteristics of the food for the "global promotion".

In fact, the reputation of "food in Guangzhou" has already spread far and wide, and Guangzhou's food civilization, but also in the subtle influence on the country, to promote changes in people's lifestyles, and even affect the way of thinking and methods of thought -

Contained in the Guangzhou food when the civilization, is becoming a new trend.

Cantonese "sigh morning tea" popular nationwide

Early morning teahouse hotel, crowded. Accompanied by "a cup of two pieces" dense aroma, the old broads began a day of life.

The culinary custom of drinking morning tea in Guangzhou has a long history. In the Qing Dynasty, the custom of drinking tea centered on morning tea took shape. Erli Hall, tea house, tea house, etc. have taken shape, the combination of tea, elegant and popular **** appreciation has become an important feature of the tea drinking culture in Guangzhou. Until today, "drinking tea has not ah" (drinking morning tea or not), is still the most commonly used words of greeting the old Guangzhou people.

Drinking morning tea, in the consciousness of the Guangzhou people, is not only tea, but also contains a rich social life. It is associated with food and drink, as well as the etiquette of human interaction.

In the teahouse, you can often see the scene is a family sitting around a table, the adults talk about the world, the children are also happy. In the steaming aroma of shrimp dumplings, boat congee, siu mai, and steamed phoenix claws with sauce, the family is happy, and the relationship between relatives is maintained and sublimated.

Guangzhou, as a thousand-year-old commercial capital, is extremely developed in commerce and trade. Since the reform and opening up, with the rapid development of Guangzhou's economy and society, the culture of drinking morning tea has not only not disappeared, but has become an important part of the life of Guangzhou people. Teahouse has become a place for many business people to exchange information and **** business cooperation. "Busy for the name, busy for profit, busy, drink a cup of tea to go", this is the culture behind the subtlety of the Cantonese morning tea - a few cages of dim sum down to the stomach, tea cups a touch, often a single business will be negotiated.

Nowadays, Guangzhou's "morning tea culture" is going to the country. "What makes me see the sun before 10 o'clock in the morning on weekends? It's to not wait in line to eat a little bit of Dudu." A Shanghai resident left a message on a food review website. Last year, Guangzhou teahouse "point Du De" out of Guangzhou into Shanghai, quickly became a "net red" queuing store, often have to wait for an hour. Now less than a year, point DuDe has opened three branches in Shanghai, which is located in the Xintiandi shopping district branch, has more than 13,000 netizen comments. In addition to the point DuDe, TaoTaoJu and other "old" have out of Guangzhou, open to other cities, and get the local people's favorite.

"Packing and AA" has become a new trend

After a morning tea at a teahouse in Guangzhou, you can often hear the phrase "please pack your bag", which means "please help me pack my bag". "The first thing you need to do is to take a look at the color of the paper and the texture of the paper. This is the unique "packing culture" of Guangzhou's food culture.

Food is the first thing that people do, and etiquette is the first thing that people do. Eating is an important part of social life, and table civilization is an important manifestation of social civilization. Guangzhou people have long been aware of the importance of civilized habits such as "CD-ROM" and packing, while paying attention to food.

In China, the behavior of "packing" is widely believed to have first appeared in Guangzhou, which has been the frontier of reform and opening up since the 1980s, and the market economy is at the forefront of the country. As a city known for commerce, Guangzhou people understand the meaning of practicality, comfort, and not wastefulness, and the gene of "low-profile and pragmatic" is rooted in the bones of Guangzhou people.

According to scholar Gao Xuzheng, the sense of equality, fairness, and affordability in commerce is also reflected in eating habits, such as the general Guangzhou people never forced people to drink at feasts, and most of the banquet dishes are good in moderation, etc. This kind of abundance and frugality of the Guangzhou people is very important. Guangzhou people's this abundance and frugality, not the luxury of pragmatic food style, is the modern society, the inevitable result of the development of civilization.

In this context, Guangzhou people formed the habit of "packing" at the table, and developed into its unique culture, subconsciously influencing the "southeast, northwest, north, south, and north, to Guangdong" crowd. Gradually, this table civilization, with the "bill", "packing" and other sayings, spread to all parts of the country, on the other places of the diet, lifestyle and have a far-reaching impact.

The same food culture that flowed from the table of Guangzhou to the whole country and had a great influence, there is also the AA system.

AA, which stands for Acting Appointment, first appeared in the Netherlands and Italy around the 16th century. At that time, Italian and Dutch merchants had already developed the custom of exchanging information when getting together and paying each other's expenses when leaving. The mobility of merchants is large, and after a meal, they do not know when to see each other again, so sharing the cost with each other became the best choice.

For this reason, in the eyes of many scholars, the AA system represents a relationship of equal exchange, and is one of the most important symbols of Western civilization. In China, this "table civilization" first appeared in the commercial civilization of Guangzhou, not only reflects the Guangzhou as China and the world as a window of civilization exchanges and mutual understanding, but also to the people of the concept of ideas, concepts caused a great impact.

It is no wonder that Yi Zhongtian describes it as follows: "The lifestyles and ways of life of the people of Guangzhou or Guangdong have become more and more an object of imitation for the people of the mainland. These influences go far beyond the way of life, but directly affect the way of thinking and the way of thinking."

City vitality in the "late-night snack culture"

As night falls, Guangzhou people who have been busy for a day on Sports Xi-Hengjie, Luoxi Food Street, Baoye Road, Yueken Road ......, get together with their friends, and go into a restaurant while yelling at each other. The first thing you need to do is to get into a store with your friends, while quietly locking in the freshest ingredients out of the corner of your eye. Seasoned "foodies" are bound to know Guangzhou's Baoye Road and its famous crayfish, Pu Tianguang, charcoal oysters, and Chaoshan casserole congee. But don't come here in the daytime, when the eateries are open at sunset and in the morning sun.

But perhaps most people don't know that Guangzhou's late-night snacking is the granddaddy of Chinese late-night snacking. Because of the filming of "Tongue on the China" and a household name Chen Xiaoqing had this to say, Guangdong people eat late-night habits, is determined by geography and climate, Guangdong hot summer night without air conditioning, the home is not live, people must sneak out to the street to eat something, I did not expect that this originally belongs to the hot summer late-night snacking culture, the achievements of this late-night snacking paradise in Guangzhou, also not divided into four seasons passed down.

Late-night snacking also represents Guangzhou's "advanced" and "new wave". In the 1970s and 1980s, Guangzhou became a bridgehead for domestic reform and opening up, with the rapid development of commerce and trade brought about by the Canton Fair, and the absolute geographic advantage of being close to Hong Kong and Macao, where new things and trendy cultures mingled one after another.

The color of the city at night behind the curfew is the color of the life of the busy people in the city. They are struggling, and the city is open, enterprising and tolerant.

The city spirit of openness and aggressiveness is reflected in Guangzhou. In the 1980s, Guangzhou took the lead in opening up the free flow of vegetables, fruits, fish and other ingredients, and many people started their careers as self-employed, and with the comfortable and pleasant night-time climate, the late-night snacking economy came into being.

In the early 1990s, Guangdong Province ended the circulation of food stamps before other provinces and cities in the country, and Guangzhou's wholesale industry and trade were more prosperous. The tide of migrant workers from the south not only brought an abundance of labor, but also made the late-night snack stalls in the "wok gas" and "popularity" of the street into a market, development and growth. Late-night snacks have gradually transformed from a mere "extra meal" into an important scene of life with a social function. Workers from the south to the north in the taste of Guangzhou cuisine at the same time, but also brought all over the country and even around the world food culture, late-night snacks are increasingly diverse categories.

"Without late-night snacks, what is 'late-night'?" As more and more people come to Guangzhou, they also bring Guangzhou's unique late-night snacking culture to the north and south of the Yangtze River. In different places, late-night snacks may be called differently, but people in the late-night food is the same kind of strong feelings of yearning. The culture of late-night snacking from Guangzhou has influenced the lifestyle of a generation.

In Guangzhou, this lifestyle continues. With the city's economic development to the east, Yanjiang Road, Western-style bar street, Pearl River Pada beer culture and creative arts area and other late-night places for "night people" came into being, gathered in Tianhe, Haizhu and other Internet companies, overtime team to go to Kexin Road, Member Village food street to eat late-night snacks, but also become a unique landscape in Guangzhou, reflecting the city's renewed vitality. The city's renewed vigor.

Coordinated by Chen Bangming Huang Yingchuan

Proofread by Luo Jianpeng

By Yu Qiuliang; Liu Shiqiang

Source Southern Newspaper Media Group South+ Client