For the current long-established enterprises, how to have hundreds of years of history of the dishes inherited, is becoming a difficult subject. Behind this topic, reflecting the rapid changes in society as a whole: labor issues, consumer tendencies, etc., wrapped in a small environment consisting of chefs, waiters, and consumers, together with the inheritance pushed to the old. Chef, for example, the chef is the closest link to the heritage of the dishes, the old firms to train a chef at least 10 years to get out of the master, and now many training courses can be trained to become a "master" in 3 years, the whole society of the quick, quick success, including the only child, parents of their children's mentality of expecting their children to be a dragon, the real meaning of the chef has been a lack of successor The real sense of the chef has been a shortage of successors. Similarly, not only the old, even ordinary restaurants are increasingly difficult to recruit waiters, "there is a point of work, there is no point of work," "limited income, unlimited time," so that catering enterprises and other service industries in the labor force competition is clearly at a disadvantage. Coupled with the rising cost of waiters, increasingly erode their meager profits. The most fatal should be consumers, along with the penetration of Western culture, and "fast food" tendency, many young consumers are accustomed to the "packet" type of taste, to the old emphasis on the "flavor The "taste" and "texture" emphasized by the old firms have lost their appreciation. The old dishes emphasize the fine workmanship, the freshness of the ingredients and freshly made, kung fu, all of which, with the current "fast food" rhythm of life formed a huge conflict. Consumers don't buy it, making the heritage lose its fulcrum and meaning. Not only that, along with the erosion of the takeaway business on the catering business, the old enterprises also need to take advantage of the takeaway this expansion of the user, the spread of the brand of the "east wind", but the old many need to "ready to eat" dishes are not suitable for takeaways this consumer scenario. Nowadays, many long-established enterprises are no longer in the year of "the family market", to consume most of the customers are older people, even if there are young people, most of them are accompanied by their parents. This also means that, for the most consumer power of young people, the old has not found the current market "burst". As a result, the objective "restricted labor", "restricted consumption scenes" and "restricted users" form a barrier that is difficult to overcome in the current survival map of the old firms. How to cross this fence, rejuvenate the vitality of the old, is becoming a problem worthy of people's attention. 1. Zhimei Zhai old can keep it is not easy to mention Zhimei Zhai, the old Beijing people may think of "four eat fish, bad slice of fish, nine turn large intestine" and other famous dishes in Beijing; to think of the same period of the south of Jiangnan tributary Lu Fengshi and the "first-class dishes". The story of "Roasted Braised Claw Tips" as the "Scholar's Dish"; Liang Shiqiu's favorite dish "Coriander Exploded Shredded Belly" and his words "A meal of pleasure in life, not to be forgotten after 50 years". I think of Liang Shiqiu's favorite dish "coriander popped tripe threads" and his saying that "I can't forget my favorite meal of my life after 50 years"; I think of the historic moment when Cai Yuanpei invited Chen Duxiu to a banquet at Zhimei Zhai before Chen Duxiu was appointed as a teacher of Beida. These dishes left on the taste buds of the memory and cultural heritage seems to let the old have a soul and roots, after more than 400 years and not extinguished, can still keep recalling. However, in the "fast food" and "fast-paced" today, in the face of changes in the consumer environment and rising costs, Zhimei Zhai that year, "shallow water can accommodate the moon, high mountains do not hinder the cloud "The calm and relaxed seems to be difficult to continue to maintain. Public information shows: Zhimei Zhai was built in Chongzhen seventeen years (1644), the original site in the front door outside the Coal Market Street, operating Gusu flavor dishes, and then changed owners, after several generations of chefs research and development, the production and sale of dishes for "set of north and south cooking of the essence of the metropolis imperial food of the essence of the food" and fame, Zhimei Zhai has become the celebrity merchant convergence of the place. Tell the history of Zhimei Zhai, the current Zhimei Zhai restaurant manager Chen Fuqiang told reporters, "with the change of times, Zhimei Zhai dishes gradually to society, widely recognized, and gradually formed a unique flavor of Beijing cuisine." Today, located in the Bai Guang Road, No. 35, "Zhimei Zhai" is one of the few old Beijing catering enterprises with a purely state-funded background. Because of the state-owned background, during the 2020 epidemic, in many catering enterprises had to lay off employees, closed down, Zhimei Zhai will still give employees the minimum living expenses, but also quickly recovered from the impact of the epidemic. Chen Fuqiang told reporters, "This can be seen in the social responsibility of state-owned enterprises and the ability to resist risk, because as a long-established, we are not making money when operating a few years, not making money when it is turned over and sold, but to do it all the time." However, even so, Zhimei Zhai also had to be like most catering enterprises, need to face all kinds of changes in the social consumer environment, which also makes the inheritance of the old and adhere to become a problem of the times. First of all, the chef is the dish inheritance of the closest ties, old in the inheritance of a hundred years of many famous dishes, pay attention to the selection of ingredients, pay attention to the knife, fire, pay attention to cooking people's enlightenment and aura, a chef's training at least 10 years, but now willing to do the chef's people are less, not to mention a long time to go through a long and diligent study in order to be out of the teacher. This is a direct result of the lack of successors to many old famous dishes heritage. "In the past, to be a chef is a step by step, from the grassroots dry to the side dishes, to be in the kitchen to stay for many years, dry side dishes for three years, no three years of good anvil can not be a good chef, this time but also a good character, there is enlightenment, only to have the opportunity to get on the fire (on the stove), and even at this point, it is not at once to stir fry, but also to be lined up in a queue, in front of the front to go one, you leap up one, and only This is the only time you can worship the master, and only then you can be called a disciple in the door. This time at least 10 years, but now just do a year, take a certificate, is the master, at the root is not the same." Chen Fuqiang told reporters. Not only that, the old talk about "a hundred dishes, a hundred flavors", and now on the market, "hot pot" and "scorpion" is not the same, the back of the kitchen can not only a single craft, so like Zhimei Zhai, such as Therefore, such as Zhimei Zhai, usually need six or seven chefs, chef's income of at least 10,000 yuan per person, which is another cost of a large expenditure. Secondly, the waiter of the catering enterprise is also very important, the chef gives enough price, the market is connected, basically the mobility is not big. But the waiter is different, catering enterprises, "work a little, no point after work," coupled with limited income, resulting in a young waiter is difficult to recruit, and even if recruited over the mobility will be very large. "We are state-owned enterprises, to pay social security to employees, urban households will also have a provident fund, so that, for example, issued 3800 yuan of wages to the hand may be 3400 yuan, but next to the owner of the individual households may not pay social security, so that the young people may be compared to go. But if I give her a wage increase, the more I increase, the more I pay, the cost pressure will be great. Nowadays, young people, including young girls from the countryside, many of the family is not poor, just arrived in Beijing may work in the restaurant, but after understanding the situation, she may go next to the work is easy, a little bit of off-duty business, so the social involution is also to a large extent affects the operation of catering enterprises." Chen Fuqiang said. It is worth noting that the current catering business labor costs accounted for 30% of the total cost or even more, even without the cost of rent, a variety of costs add up to nearly half of sales. This means that if you add rent and various taxes, the business may be basically unprofitable. Again, the changing times, consumption in people's income in the proportion of a significant decline is also affecting the direction of the objective social factors of the catering business, which is also a greater challenge for the old. "Before eating expensive, most of people's income (share may be up to 70%) was eaten, now income is high, but the share of people eating down to about 10% to 20% of the level, so now catering enterprises can not afford to feed people, there are many chains alive alive, a few years on the collapse. For the old, a lot of things cost-effective is not appropriate, slowly disappeared."