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The history of Beijing-Jiangsu cuisine
According to historical records, Beijing-Soviet cuisine appeared in Nanjing around the Qing Dynasty. The so-called "Beijing" means that Nanjing was the Kyoto of the Six Dynasties and the Early Ming Dynasty; "Su" means that Nanjing was the site of Jiangsu Province in the Qing Dynasty. "Big food" is used to describe the preciousness, elegance, beauty and generosity of Nanjing cuisine. It is the land of fish and rice in the north and south of the Yangtze River that is rich in products, the exchange of land and water transportation and commerce, the influence of humanistic culture and exquisite folk customs that gave birth to Nanjing's gourmet culture. Qu Yuan, a patriotic poet in China, recorded many characteristics of Wu Chu cuisine in Chu Ci, including beef tendon, roast mutton, stewed turtle, stewed turtle, boiled swan and stewed duck. After Wu and Sun Quan made their capital Ye, the social economy developed rapidly. Jinling, as the largest commercial port in China, is crowded with distinguished guests. On both sides of Qinhuai River, the smoke from kitchen chimneys is curling up and the wine is mellow. The representative of Liu Chaotian's chef, Yu Yun of Nanqi, is good at seasoning, and the dishes he makes are delicious, which is better than the official meals in the palace. Li Yu, the leader of the late Southern Tang Dynasty, visited the banquet in Han Xizai and drew the famous Banquet in Han Xizai, which was a true portrayal of the Jinling family banquet at that time. During the Tang and Song Dynasties, the catering industry was in the ascendant. In Du Mu's poem Bo Qinhuai, there is a sentence: "The smoke cage is covered with gauze in the cold month, and Qinhuai is close to the restaurant at night." Wu's The Scholars was written with Jinling as the background. Li Bai, a great poet, visited Nanjing four times and wrote immortal poems such as "On the Phoenix Terrace in Nanjing". In the Song Dynasty, Wang Anshi built a mid-level garden at the foot of Zijin Mountain, lived in Jinling for decades, and wrote a generous and tragic masterpiece "Jinling Nostalgia". Yuan Mei, a talented scholar in the south of the Yangtze River in Qing Dynasty, wrote a famous work "Eating List with the Garden" in Nanjing Xiaocang. The book was published in the fifty-seventh year of Qing Qianlong (1792), and all of them are based on Beijing-Soviet cuisine. Cao Xueqin even provided an eloquent basis for Beijing-Suzhou cuisine to stand out in the whole country with the records of famous dishes in the famous novel A Dream of Red Mansions.

Nanjing is located in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, with warm climate, fertile soil, abundant products, convenient transportation, strong economy and prosperous market, which greatly promoted the development of catering industry. There are not only many cooking materials like those in other places, but also many local cooking resources, such as: Longchi crucian carp with small head, black back and thick meat; Yellow vegetables with short legs, short stems and fat leaves; Fresh and tender lake duck; Black herring in Wulongtan; Cloud tea in Zhongshan; Nanxiang's thin-skinned pig; Swordfish and shad in the Yangtze River ... Some of these resources are produced in suburbs and some in urban areas, which provides unique conditions for the production of Beijing-Soviet cuisine. During the Republic of China, local restaurants in Nanjing gathered around Confucius Temple. First Spring, Haidongchun, * * Hechun, LaoWanquan, Changsongdong, Yingbin Hotel, Dajinhua, Laobaoxin, Jinlingchun, etc. They all play the tricks of Beijing-Suzhou cuisine to attract diners, which shows that it is different from foreign cuisine. Local chefs in Nanjing all call themselves "Jingsu Gang". According to statistics, steamed shad, crispy crucian carp, anchovies and Chinese cabbage have a history of more than 600 years. It has a history of 200 years, including silk-embedded tofu, sunflower seeds, ham stewed bean sprouts and so on. Traditional famous dishes include canned meat, raw stew, assorted rice, stew, eight treasures and one pine, smoked pine nuts, flat meat crisp and so on. After liberation, Shao Fuxing (now Jiangsu Restaurant), Ma Xiangxing, Hua Paradise, Liuhuachun, Lvliuju, Yongheyuan and other restaurants also introduced modern Beijing-Jiangsu cuisine, such as Huang Chengcheng's "osmanthus shrimp cake", doll-like "two-tailed shrimp plate", exquisite "apple chicken", gorgeous "orchid meat roll" and elegant "colorful fish clip". Historically, Beijing-Jiangsu cuisine consisted of official dishes, local dishes, folk dishes, Muslim dishes, vegetarian dishes and boat dishes. It is characterized by strict selection of materials, fine production, exquisite knife work, originality, four distinct seasons, salty but not light, light but not thin, spicy but not strong, fat but not greasy, crisp without losing shape, smooth and tender without losing vitality. In production, he is good at wild vegetables and connective vegetables (that is, colored leafy vegetables); In terms of cooking methods, stewing and stewing are alternately changed throughout the year, and barbecued pork fat duck, barbecued squid and barbecued pork crispy noodle shop are combined into one, becoming the "Jinling Trifork". The most influential dishes in the country are duck dishes and whole duck seats, swallow-winged roast duck seats and shark's fin roast duck seats, which enjoy the reputation of "Jinling duck is the best in the world".

Generally speaking, Republic of China cuisine is Beijing-Suzhou cuisine. During the Republic of China, local Beijing-Suzhou cuisine was the main food, supplemented by foreign dishes, including Zhejiang-Shaoxing, Guangdong, Guangxi and Hunan, and some popular Nanjing-style dishes such as halal were blended. At the same time, the great dishes in the Republic of China, like those in Beijing and Jiangsu, have a common feature: exquisite selection of materials, exquisite workmanship, time-consuming and laborious, and even the setting of the dining table, the timing of serving and the service skills of waiters have certain rules.