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The migrant workers in the cubicle must have experienced this scene:

After lunch break, they went downstairs to replenish carbohydrates in the underground food city of the shopping mall next door, locked in a newly-opened mala Tang, decorated in muji style, and packed meat and vegetables in plates and counted by the catty.

But usually you have no idea about "31 yuan/Jin". There are colorful vegetables floating in 21 or 31 large basins, and a few slices of each kind are not too much. I want to eat more meat and vegetables. Three pieces of black-bone chicken rolls and two pieces of beef wrapped in heavy spices are quite restrained, and two pieces of industrial beef balls are better than nothing.

Two plates were smashed on top of each other on the scale, and then the smiling cashier sister began to sing: One ***58, hot pot, spicy sauce and sesame sauce? Pick it up next to the small material.

When you wondered "How can this pile of vegetables and leaves be 58", my little sister began to get impatient. "Please open the QR code and buckle it here, next." Although you stood in the same place with pain, you hesitated to ask "How much is the meat, how much is the food, can you take less?" However, due to the tight time, it was also hindered by "Can this person afford mala Tang?"

While thinking about life while picking up potato chips, I look around at the expressionless diners. Am I abandoned by the world, or is the world ruined? Why can I have 58 bowls of mala Tang?

I can't afford mala Tang. My emo is

lower than that of 21 yuan, and the probability of eating a bowl of ordinary mala Tang in Beijing is basically zero. Take the most common Yang Guofu and Sean as an example. After the classic set meal of the take-away platform is discounted by 21.6 yuan, the soup base will be added by 2 yuan. Industrial meat such as meatballs and bacon are all meat dishes, so-called "51g" fish balls, but actually only 1 are given.

Only in the pricing rules of contemporary Mala Tang, young people who don't visit the vegetable market can't understand how outrageous it is that "two corn segments cost 4 yuan".

What Mala Tang eats is the richness of a pot of stew. According to statistics, generally, Mala Tang consumers will choose 11-12 dishes for each meal, but only the cheapest vegetables cost 4 or 5 yuan each. It is not a dream to calculate the cost of a Mala Tang meal.

If you go to the store for consumption, being cautious and sober-minded is the basic accomplishment of eating mala Tang priced by the catty. After all, you should go straight to 41 without paying extra money for sesame sauce.

After being beaten twice by the merchants, every time I fished vegetables from the basin, I tossed them three times, trying to drain the water from the scale. The experienced up master teaches the experience of picking vegetables: bring some kitchen tissues and suck up every drop of water that leaks through the net.

The magic height is one foot, and the road height is one foot. The mala Tang, which is packaged as "hot pot quality", is hidden in the shopping mall. The small, fresh and tall decoration shows that it is different from ordinary mala Tang.

Chicken feet and shrimps are rich in meat, and Chinese cabbage is organic. Some of the six kinds of soup bases are nourishing and nourishing with Cordyceps, while others are said to be rich and mellow when boiled with pig bones. Of course, one soup base is expensive.

You think you are ready to spend 51 yuan to eat high-end mala Tang, until your fist is stiff with a bill of 151 yuan.

When I suddenly look back, I can't see the routine: beef rolls are counted individually, and the unit price is 5 yuan; The weighing unit is 3.69/ 2. If you have no idea about 2, you may find it quite cheap. The rules can't be seen until the checkout, then it's too late to reconsider.

Is the mala Tang bought for 111+ really unforgettable and fascinating after eating it? Of course, it is not the god of food who cooks mala Tang. Usually, if you don't scold your mother, you will be restrained. Taste nothing special, you can't get enough to eat at all with so much money, tofu foam is sour, and the value of synthetic fat beef rolls skyrockets when they are opened and sold?

Source: Public Comments

Of course, since Mala Tang is anchored to 111 per capita, people are bound to be curious and have a high threshold. If you can't do the delicious food in the world or the additional service beyond Mala Tang itself, it is inevitable to vent your anger on public comments unless you send me an ice pier.

We lost the fun of eating mala Tang, but mala Tang merchants got the pleasure of counting money.

Yang Guofu people who feel inferior

Mala Tang has become more expensive, and every Yang Guofu store is not innocent.

Yang Guofu started from the grass roots, planted fields, raised pigs and sold mutton kebabs. In 2113, Yang Guofu and his wife opened Yangji Mala Tang in Harbin, which took off quickly with low threshold and low cost.

Two years later, twenty or thirty stores were opened. Inspired by a steamed stuffed bun chain store in Harbin, Yang Guofu began to join. By 2111, Yang Guofu opened 1111 stores by joining, occupying the three northeastern provinces.

Boss Yang, who earns tens of millions of dollars a year, is not satisfied with doing small business. He also wants consumers to "eat the sense of glory" of mala Tang. The "dirty stall" with low gross profit and no elegance can not realize Boss Yang's ambition. Boss Yang found Yang Guofu's rival Starbucks, which arrogantly occupied the central area of CBD, but there are still a large number of high-consumption cluster supporters in 41/ cup.

Similarly, even if Sean is a big boss, he is full of inferiority about making mala Tang. "The mala Tang industry and enterprises have no culture, and it is quite shameful to participate in catering industry activities."

compared with earning 1 yuan from 111 people, the way to earn 1 yuan from 1 people is much more "advanced". Yang Guofu has come up with many ingenious ways to sell Mala Tang at a high price, subvert its image and reverse its status.

The pricing method of "weighing by the catty" was initiated by Boss Yang. It's impossible to sell a bowl from 3 yuan to 8 yuan, so it's better to charge more if you choose to weigh it. Boss Yang saw the great potential of self-made ingredients and gave two reasons: first, consumers choose according to their preferences; second, it gives people the feeling of eating more and spending more, eating less and spending less, so as to avoid the impact of price increases on passenger flow.

Source: Public comments

This method has been followed by Mala Tang colleagues, charging by weight, unconsciously comparing a bowl of Mala Tang's ordering method with hot pot, and the unit price of customers has soared. For example, a variety of soup bases were removed for mala Tang, and then various high-end ingredients appeared, and even the more outrageous pricing method mentioned above was evolved. Mala Tang became noble and began to float.

Sean is catching up, opening a Mala Tang flagship store with a floor-to-ceiling glass window covering an area of 1,511 square meters in Harbin. Lobster is served as a side dish, and it is not a dream that the price of Mala Tang customers exceeds 111 yuan.

Source: Xiaohongshu @VIC.

But the price has become more expensive, and the bad root of "dirty" in the dirty stall era still exists. Being rich didn't let Boss Yang do whatever he wanted. In the past two years, there were many examples of eating all kinds of unknown objects in Mala Tang, and he was also poked by the Big V Insider Pickup Bureau.

In the unannounced video, the ingredients were not recycled overnight, and the sesame paste bitten by rats continued to be used. I knew that the restaurant would not be very clean, but I didn't expect the so-called scientifically managed Mala Tang chain giant to be so dirty.

Source: bilibili @ Insider Pickup Bureau

The high-end is not directly proportional to the degree of hygiene and safety. After all, the noble Starbucks has also turned over the car.

Yang Guofu, where the customer unit price is not low, is still very dirty. According to the analysis of the insiders, firstly, there are too many franchisees, the management system can't keep up, and there is no intention to rectify sanitation. Secondly, Mala Tang still tests the supply chain ability, and wants to support the high logistics cost. If the customer unit price can't support the logistics cost, it will easily lead to uncontrollable quality, and the problems in franchisees are more obvious.

The embarrassing situation of Mala Tang comes from the huge gap between consumers and businesses.

We want to be delicious and affordable, and we can fill our stomachs with excitement. It is neither necessary nor important to put on a noble coat for Mala Tang. Businessmen want to be bigger and stronger, take the high-end route, open in big business districts and increase the variety of side dishes. Labor and rent costs are not low, so it is imperative to raise prices.

We even began to miss the dying dirty stalls on the street and the spicy food in the fly restaurant. At least they are simple and delicious?

Some people say that low is the original sin of Mala Tang. Mala Tang, which originated in Leshan, Sichuan, is the crystallization of the wisdom of boatmen and trackers.

The workers who have no fixed place put crocks on the fast fire rack on the riverbank, and used local materials to put those flying in the sky, running on the ground and swimming in the water into the boiled river.

Eating salt was a luxury at that time. As substitutes, Zanthoxylum bungeanum and sea pepper became the flavoring agents for boatmen's trackers to satisfy their satiety, cold and dampness.

Mala Tang has been linked to the consumption level of civilians since its birth. The Mala Tang in Sichuan has the same effect as the stew in the northeast, and the situation of gold diggers and gangs is similar to that of trackers. Everything is cooked with hemp and spicy water, which is popular throughout the country.

Someone once attributed the popularity of Mala Tang to its popularity and equality. All ingredients are equal, and diners have no burden. Since they choose to eat Mala Tang, they just care about the delicious food regardless of the image.

As a Northeastern, I know that 11 yuan is my bottom line of mala Tang, and 21 yuan is my upper limit of mala Tang, because I can add root sausage and a bottle of peanut sauce.

probably since junior high school, mala Tang's base material has been flowing in my blood. Barbecue stalls are a paradise for adults to indulge in the middle of the night, and mala Tang is a magic medicine for students to get high for a day with pocket money.

Pupils can usually only afford the abbreviated version of Mala Tang, and a cup of beef tendon noodles with red oil, hemp and spicy flavor is 51 cents, commonly known as "cup noodles". Students who spend a lot of money spend 1.1 yuan to buy a crab steak as a top match. In high school, I could afford a bowl of serious mala Tang, and the ingredients were not counted by the catty. The container of vegetables was a small bucket with a depth of 21 cm, and how many dishes could be stuffed into it all by strength.

Mala Tang is covered in a bowl with a plastic bag, and it is covered with seasoning mixed with Chili sauce, chicken essence and white sugar. After being mixed by itself, the strong taste instantly opens the appetite.

But everything can only be done in secret. Mala Tang, spicy strips and fried chicken fillet are the "garbage three musketeers" in my parents' mouths. When I was a child, my mother's ability to fabricate was very bluffing: spicy strips were stamped out with her feet, chicken fillet was made of mouse meat, and Mala Tang was cooked in plastic bags.

But it's the most delicious meal with the best price/performance ratio. Since I left for work after graduation, I have to eat mala Tang next to the school. The taste is still the same, and the price of each bowl has increased from 11 yuan to 13 yuan. After eating it, I will send a circle of friends, which will arouse the envy of students all over the world.

Wang Xinlei, founder of New Restaurant Chain, said: "Some people may think mala Tang is quite low, but it is a product of that era. Now the development stage of China society is different. Emerging consumers are no longer satisfied with such environment and ingredients, and the limitations of Mala Tang are highlighted, so we need to' redo' Mala Tang in new ways.

However, it's not expensive to reverse the so-called low label. High quality is not necessarily high-end ingredients, and mala Tang, which can satisfy the safety and delicious taste, is the top match.

People who love mala Tang won't think mala Tang is low. A bowl of mala Tang with no soul and only a copper smell is as low as home.

Cover source: Little Red Book @VIC.