1?

Opting to take an overnight train to Yangzhou in late spring, the train was three hours late, and the conductor who informed us said this hadn't happened in over a year. I was very hungry, but I still insisted on eating on Dongguan Street.

For brunch, I opted for the four-hei soup dumplings, which were completely new to me, with bean paste, black sesame, pork, and water chestnuts. Small store, need to share a table with strangers, the local old lady patted the chair beside me and said, no one here, sit here.

The savory soup dumplings are a wonderful experience for the taste buds, and although I was prepared for them, they were completely different from what I imagined they would taste like. Come to think of it, it can only be described as delicious.

It is possible to see some older aunts in the kitchen without a door, hand-wrapping the dumplings, not purely round, some of them kneaded out small corners to differentiate the flavor. The sticky rice skin is so thick that only half of it can be left over for fear of indigestion.

Going out and continuing to walk forward, to the ever-needed queue of rough tea to buy lotus root dumplings, the house of the seats and standing space are crowded with people, with a plastic bowl to pack away, around the back of the alley, find a stone bench to sit down and slowly eat. The large soup dumplings, with translucent skins kneaded with lotus root powder, are non-sticky and flexible when you bite into them. The filling is genuine five-kernel stuffing, mellow and fragrant, not sweet and greasy. The base soup is filled with osmanthus sauce and sugar, and when you eat one and take a sip, a fine bead of sweat breaks out on your forehead, but there's a sense of contented happiness.

There are many stalls selling Huangqiao baklava, which is smaller than the palm of your hand and comes in both sweet and savory flavors. I met some tourists who bought gift boxes covering all flavors, but I just bought a freshly baked meat floss biscuit, which was so small that I finished it in a few bites. The crispy shell is sandwiched between soft, savory meat floss, and the white sesame seeds on the surface are fragrant in the mouth, making even a small one a full meal.

Saw the sale of peanut and sesame soufflé, bought half a catty in the bag, ready to eat while walking.

The first stop on the sightseeing tour is the Garden, a delicate setting of gardens, rockeries and mansions. Previously not visited the Jiangnan landscape, only when you are in the middle of it, you can really understand the real feeling of a step in the book read over the years. After living in a dense office building for a long time, seeing a large green bamboo forest and blooming flowers made my mood much happier.

The buildings are made of grayish-white masonry, with narrow alleys and damp stone pavements covered with moss, as if they were a step back in time.

After strolling along the long, thin courtyard, I came out to try the famous local crab roe soup dumplings. There was a long wait before the owner steamed them in a pot after ordering.

The skin is so thin that you can see the soup rippling inside. Put it on a small plate, blow it cool, bite open a small mouthful of soup, it is really a wonderful enjoyment. At this time in the dish poured on the vinegar and oil and hot pepper, to lift the fishy flavor of the meat filling, big mouth meat filling to eat the addiction. I love the part of the bun where the skin connects to the filling. The skin soaks up the soup and is soft and full of flavor.

Because the Garden of Individuality and the Garden of He are not far away, I chose to walk there. Through the narrow road, walking through a small river, the river is along the banks of the old small cottages, dark and gloomy, but with a kind of Jiangnan calm.

The path leads to Wang's Garden, a mansion left over from the old salt merchants. Above the porch are elegant calligraphy plaques, through the Confucian sentiment. The sunlight shines into the room through the wooden windows, and the streaks of dust can be seen in the columns of light.

Walking into Pi Shi Street, I saw a husband-and-wife stall making large oil-burnt cakes on a large iron pot. I'm told it's the best scallion oil baklava in all of Yangzhou, and one is hard to come by. The owner of the husband and wife stall initially told me that it was no longer available and I had to wait for an hour and a half before I could get one. The lady boss asked me to buy a few, just this pot is about to come out of the oven there is still one left.

In my mind, I was glad it was just right.

While waiting, many locals rode their motorized scooters over to ask about buying a dozen or so. The owner apologized and said he would have to wait more than an hour to make a reservation. He skillfully kneads the dough and mixes the green onion and pork fillings into the cakes.

The cakes are first fried in oil on an iron plate, making a tantalizing sound. The boss's wife is in charge of flipping them, and when they're all cooked, they're placed in a clay oven under the bottom of the pan and baked. The top of the pancake becomes crispy while the inside is soft and fluffy.

The owner handed me one of the freshly baked ones and happily thanked me. The first bite almost burned my lips, the layers of spiral pastry sandwiched between chopped green onions, extremely flavorful in the mouth, and occasionally eat bits of meat foam, the tongue has a sense of surprise like winning the lottery. I've heard that the rich flavor of the roasted pork is due to the lard, but once you eat it, you can't worry about the calorie limit.

The style of He Yuan is quite modern, with a Chinese-style courtyard, a Western-style mansion, and a layout that combines Chinese and Western styles, with a European-style fireplace facing a classical Chinese coffee table, but it doesn't seem to be out of place. In the old days, the rich merchant's family has a distinguished history, the introduction of new trends, the contribution is also a lot.

From the He Garden, you happen to pass by Ding Jiawan, which looks like a very old signpost, with white stone pillars and a gray roof, and the words Ding Jiawan written in italics. Walking in is a traditional Jiangnan alleyway, a bit more compact than Beijing's hutongs. I passed old discarded sofas, wooden chairs reclining on their sides, balls of dried noodles drying on bamboo cushions, bedsheets and clothes drying outside the windows, and the occasional bicycle driving by behind me, ringing a crisp bell to alert me. The walls outside the house were painted gray, and the light of the setting sun shone down, the outline of the eaves had a classical beauty. I took out the ganache in my bag and sat down on the concrete steps to eat it, and some passing backpackers who came to take pictures of the old alleyway held their cameras up to me.

Walking in a big circle, I walked to Ganquan Road. A small commercial street with a strong atmosphere of life, with small stores and delicatessens on both sides, it is the evening, one after another after work to buy staples and vegetables here, but also some people come to purchase daily necessities. Buns, baklava and sesame oil spreads are all warm noodles with familiar flavors from childhood. I remember seeing the locals lining up in front of a cart to buy salt water geese on a TV program, so it's really easy to see such a scene in the streets.

Into a cold drink store to sit down to rest, because there are no guests, the clerk lying on the table napping. I ordered a lemonade smoothie and took out the book I brought with me in my bag to read. After walking too much, my legs felt sore after a break.

It was already completely dark when I left the store, and I followed the map's directions all the way around to Guoqing Road. I turned the corner from an alley and came across a bustling little restaurant. The old facade, the look of many years. The chubby owner of the year in the door to greet me, asked me in the local dialect to eat what, I do not understand. She stumbled into Mandarin, and finally asked me, come to travel?

Ordered Yangzhou fried rice and big boiled dry silk, want to taste the unusual store Huaiyang cuisine. Looking at the menu, I felt uncomfortable, mostly in the 10 yuan range, served on a large plate full of...?

Yangzhou fried rice taste and eaten in the past is completely different, the texture of the rice grains hard, chewy, slowly eat a bite, chewing in the taste of which red and green side dishes rich flavor.

The base soup of the large boiled dried silk is mellow in the mouth, and must not be the use of condiments to blend out the flavor, add enough mushrooms and shredded tofu, each spoonful is full, eaten with a small bowl,

Back to the hotel at less than nine o'clock, along the way, we passed by the small stores have been closed, and fewer passers-by on the street.

Feeling like a quiet town, I rested early.

2

It's a city that wakes up early, with people riding their motorized bikes to their favorite restaurants for an early breakfast or to buy freshly-baked baked cakes and buns for their families, and restaurants selling morning tea ready to open early.

I went to Jiangjiaqiao, a restaurant near my home, and ordered three dingbao and a thousand-layer omelette. The buns were so big that I stopped eating them halfway through to avoid overdoing it. The buns were so big that I deliberately stopped halfway through the meal to avoid overindulging in them.

Walking west along Dongguan Street, an old street known as Caiyi Street, I saw a baked cake with dried plums and vegetables and bought another one to taste. The baklava is bigger than your face, rolled out thinly, filled with a filling of dried plums and minced pork, and baked in an oven, making it very crispy and not greasy. It is said to be a specialty noodle dish of Zhejiang.

The bus ride to the Slender West Lake was raining heavily all the way, but there were still a lot of tourists. The plants of the Slender West Lake looked more green in the rain, the flowers were washed clean after the downpour had stopped, and the large peonies bent the branches of the flowers, each one hanging down heavily.

Transferring from the south gate to the north gate, it was close to noon. From the Daming Temple out, and back to Jiangjiaqiao, ate the signature dumpling noodles, a large bowl, half of the noodles, half of the dumpling-like small wontons, the portion is full, as long as five yuan to eat a very full. Probably the affordable store, quite a lot of local elderly people and students come to solve the lunch.

The weather is overcast and the rain will continue to fall. When I passed by the intersection of Pi Shi Street, a noodle store had freshly baked crab shells and yellow pancakes, a particularly small one, the baked golden surface sprinkled with white sesame seeds, and inside the delicious dried plum vegetables.

Entering a small store with a rich literary style, it looks a little out of tune with the quaint style of the whole street.

Half bookstore, half coffee shop, young male boss and friends chatting in the store, I sat in the room inside, a variety of books a lot, the boss said you can choose to take a look. I could see the courtyard through the window, and before long it was raining heavily.

I took a copy of the book "Six Tales of a Floating Life" and read it casually.

When it rained a little less, I wanted to go to Guangling Road to take a stroll.

When I returned to the noodle store again, it was close to dinner time, and a lot of people were lining up to buy fried mochi. I bought a piece to eat, and it turned out that the fried patties here are savory, a pleasant surprise as a northerner.

Wandering around the street until dinner time, I found a small store and ordered stewed dumplings and lion's head. Stinky Danyuan looks like ordinary homemade tofu, but tastes like stinky tofu, stewed soup is rich, mixed with rice is very enjoyable to eat, Yangzhou's rice is mostly boiled hard, and vegetable broth and stirring will not be muddled into a ball. The lion's head was cooked with shiitake mushrooms, fresh-flavored mushrooms and greens in the soup, a very tasty combination of flavors. It was served with a side dish of gazpacho, and the bill came to less than $30 for such a rich meal. I can't imagine living here without the comfort and satisfaction that comes with it.

Looking at the time, I didn't want to waste time at the hotel, so I looked for another cafe. It's located in the alley behind the food court, and it's on the first floor of a rented hotel. The whole is covered in original wood color decoration, spacious wooden tables is my favorite feeling. There is a whole wall of bookshelves, the owner's private collection of books, I scrutinized for a long time, very much to my liking.

Next to the bookshelves were photos taken by the owner traveling around the world, tanned and smiling widely with his teeth bared in the desolate mountains.

Feeling slightly cold, I asked for a cup of hot chocolate, and the owner made me a nice pull and chatted with me for a while.

There were no other customers, and the sound of gently turning the pages of a book could be heard clearly.

Then a friend of the boss came over, the two sat next to each other and talked about literature and travel, they took out cigarettes to smoke, I looked up and asked him for a cigarette holder. The owner laughed and said he'd been waiting a long time for us to smoke.

I nodded wistfully.

3?

The blazing sun had come out early in the morning, and it was a ten-minute walk from the hotel to a breakfast stall on Dongdaemun Bridge. A very old couple's store with worn wooden bar stools. The price list was written in red paint on the white facade, mottled by the wind and sun, and the whole store was full of the vicissitudes of time. I sat at the nearest table and ordered a bowl of dry noodles, soymilk, sanding buns and tofu skin buns. The old lady was old and always **** asked me three times before and after if I wanted sugar in my soymilk.

There was also a very old semiconductor radio in one corner of my table, playing opera in an indistinct manner. The owner was humming along as he fried the doughnuts, and seemed like an interesting old man.

Dry noodles are served with ordinary white boiled noodles, with shrimp seeds, soy sauce, lard, scallions and other ingredients pressed underneath, and stirred with chopsticks to give them a unique flavor.