Current location - Recipe Complete Network - Catering industry - Textual research on donkey meat sausage
Textual research on donkey meat sausage

Lin Ming Pass has a long history and profound cultural background. Although it is the area of Qiu 'er, it is actually the pivot of the fortress. Known as the "Jifu Town". As the saying goes, "one side of the soil and water support one side." Lin Ming's food culture, isn't it? Among them, "donkey meat sausage" is famous. Linmingguan donkey meat sausage is made by slicing and shredding selected fresh donkey meat, chopping it into mud with a knife and putting it in a container; Mix the small ground sesame oil, ginger powder, salt, pepper powder, fennel powder and other condiments, and then mix the above-mentioned good mung bean powder with water in proportion, and make a meat paste; Pour the meat paste into the casings of donkeys, horses and mules (called "intestines skin" in the vicinity), bind them, and cook them in a boiling pot; Cooling and smoking. The donkey sausage made in this way is fragrant but not greasy, oily but not fat, fragrant and delicious. Its style and charm are unique, and it is one of the famous foods in southern Hebei. Taste people's words, read humanities, and do the outline or book of "Linmingguan donkey meat sausage", which has a history of about 111 years; Or, how Du Shanzhu and Guo Han inquired about their origins all originated from the article "Lin Ming Guan smoked sausage and braised pork" in Yongnian County Geographical Names. I read it in detail and savor it. As a resident, I think it is necessary to verify it. There are three suspicious places in the article. First, for dozens of generations, smoked sausage is the first choice for hospitality. However, it was recorded in the article that it began in the late Qing Dynasty, but it has only been more than a hundred years. Second, did Du Mangosteen in Shanxi live in Linming? How long will you stay? Who is the witness? Thirdly, North Dongjiekou Scenic Resort, which is called Dengshankou by Lin Ming people, was the most prosperous area in Lin Ming Pass during the Ming, Qing and Republic of China until the 1981s. If Han's butcher shop is "deserted without any customers", how can Han afford the high rent? The original authors of this article are Mr. Xu Yatang and Mr. Ma Mingxiang, and Mr. Xu has long since passed away. So, with these questions, on September 5, 2112, I visited Mr. Ma Lao, who was 84 years old, with my friends. Although Mr. Ma is in good health, he is deaf and blind, unable to distinguish things clearly, and his listening depends on his tools. I have the feeling of friendship with the world, so I signed my name next to the earphone. Thanks to the warm hospitality of the old gentleman, I got the reason. Ma Lao pondered for a long time and revealed the origin of this article. At the beginning of the reform and opening up in 1979, the CPPCC asked CPPCC members to write literature and history materials. As a member of the Chinese People's Political Consultative Conference (CPPCC), Mr. Xu Yatang took "Limingguan Sausages and Braised Pork" as a topic and wrote it in words. So, Mr. Xu went straight to Yongnian County Catering Service Company, and learned about the situation from several masters who were registered in Linming, and wrote this article. Mr. Xu didn't go to the Sixth Street in Linming to find the source. After the manuscript was written, in order to show the authenticity and reliability of this article, Mr. Xu asked Ma Mingxiang, the curator of Yongnian County Library, who is a temporary resident, to sign it. At that time, Mr. Ma was the only CPPCC member in Yongnian County of Hebei Province. Mr. Ma said that at that time, he just browsed it, and if it didn't get in the way, he couldn't say anything, so he wrote his name. In this way, Mr. Ma became the second author of this article. As for the plot, I have forgotten all about it. For example, "Master Dushan Bamboo in Shanxi" and "Han Liuzhu in North Dongjiekou Scenic Resort" simply don't know why. However, Guo Daran of Nanjie, because he is from Nanjie, knows a little. Mr. Ma said that the braised pork of the Guo family is indeed well made, and the pasta of the Guo family should be praised, including "plain noodles poured with meat", "sesame seeds with soles" and "wonton with big stuffing". With regard to the legends about "Linmingguan donkey meat sausage", Mr. Ma said that he did not know much about the situation. According to the comprehensive interview, Yu visited many old workshops making "donkey meat sausage" in Lingmingguan alone, and their descendants, and there were different opinions on the origin of "donkey meat sausage in Lingmingguan". And there is such a saying that is most convincing. The origin of sausage is not the exclusive success, but the ancestors of many workshops in Linguan, which have been developed by several generations ... For example, the Han, Dong and Huo families in North East Street; Zhang Jia in North West Street; Liu family in West Street; The Guo family in South Street. They are all outstanding in making "donkey meat sausage" and enjoy a high reputation in Linyi. Their production history is many times longer than that of the articles contained in Toponymic Records. However, it is nonsense to investigate its exact nature. The creation and success of Linmingguan donkey meat sausage has a long process. It is said that at first, when a good thing came, the cook poured the "steamed" meat stuffing into the washed "donkey urine bubble {suipao}", cooked it and sliced it for diners and people to ask what it was, saying "meat and eggs". Later, he told this story to his peers and followed suit. After a long period of discussion, everyone finally became a snack in the neighborhood, although it is called "fragrant egg". This kind of meat and eggs was often made until the 1981s in Haifeng Restaurant outside Xiaoximen and Yutangtai Meat Shop in the auditorium of Nanda Street. Because at that time, with the increase of diners, there were fewer urine {niao} bubbles for making meat and eggs. This stumped the cooks in the vicinity again. So, they looked for something to replace. The proverb "I can give up my children's mother, not my donkey's intestines" reflects the wisdom of the chefs in the clinic. Donkey sausage is the donkey's large intestine, which is oily and fleshy. The chef made it into sauce sausage, which is delicious but not greasy, and has an endless aftertaste, and is favored by people. The small intestine of donkey, commonly known as "water intestine", has thin skin and little oil, and it is chewy, but no one cares. One day, a cook tried to tie the small intestine of a raw donkey with hemp rope at one end, and from the other end, he blew it up just like blowing urine bubbles. It looked like a snake, and its outside color was the same as that of the blown urine bubbles. So he tried to make "meat eggs", poured the meat sauce into the casing, cut it into several sections, tied it firmly, cooked it and cooled it. "An expert reaches out and knows if there is one." The chefs in the clinic all know the difference after this. Therefore, the careful development of ingredients began, which surpassed the era of "fragrant eggs" and the name of "sausage" came into being. The production of fragrant eggs is in short supply, and there is no need to consider the problem of antisepsis. The production of sausages is difficult to store in large quantities. Preventing deterioration has become a scratching problem for cooks. On the hot day, some put it in the "sweet potato pit" and some hung it in the well. However, there were still spoiled sausages. In the land near Ming, agriculture, industry and commerce are mixed, and the merchants sit in the crowd, and there are many people coming and going. Attentive cooks, in people's chatting while eating, smell the language of making bacon in the south and imitate it. Brick a rectangular pool, mix with cypress branches, pine nut shells and sawdust, scatter in the pool, burn it with fire, only smoke, not open flame, then string bundles of donkey meat sausages on wooden sticks, put them on the pool, cover them with grass felt, and smoke them. Half an hour later, the grass felt was lifted, and bundles of donkey meat sausages were smoked by pine and cypress, all of which were bright and transparent, chestnut in color, and did not rot for a long time, thus prolonging the storage period. Therefore, Linmingguan donkey meat sausage has a new name-smoked sausage or asked, why is it better to make sausages with donkey meat alone? According to the custom, donkey meat is a tonic; If you eat the meat of mules and horses, you will easily get old diseases, and make it a jingle: "Donkey meat smells good, horse meat stinks, and you won't eat mule meat until you die", that's all. Until the "public-private partnership", there were still three famous meat shops in Linchang, namely, Han Liuzhu in Dengshankou (also known as Han Laoshuang), Dong Gui's in Eighteen Rooms and Guo Daran in the south of Paifang. They are all famous for sausages and braised pork. Linchanguan donkey sausage, developed by generations of Linchanguan cooks, has a unique style and has finally become a famous local food. In 1995, Linmingguan donkey meat sausage was designated as the reception food by Handan municipal government, and in the same year, it was awarded the title of "Chinese famous snack" by China Cuisine Association.