The theme of China catering culture and the brand-new management concept of China catering industry

First, the accumulation of mass catering in China and the historical limitations of catering in China.

China is the country with the earliest written record of "restaurant" in the history of human civilization, and it is also a city catering.

Industry was once the most developed country. This prosperity of urban catering is unique in the world cultural history since the Han and Tang Dynasties and in the long Middle Ages. This momentum even lasted until the 1930s. In the following half century, China's urban catering industry, although still glorious in history and culture, failed to develop the civilized taste of the times and was obviously backward. This backwardness is not only reflected in the structural position and social function of the domestic catering industry, but more importantly, it compares the development process of the world catering industry with its own position in the world catering market.

Historically, the prosperity of China's urban catering industry is traditional and belongs to national catering culture; But from a social point of view, it is not a national food life in the public sense. Because in the history of China, there are basically no farmers who account for more than 80% to 90% of the national population. In the history of China, the basic level of social food culture was farmers. Not only that, even the members of the "well-off class" rarely become consumers of urban catering industry. The members of the above two groups are basically out of touch with the urban catering industry, and occasionally they are exceptions, which is very consumer. As the main group of the Chinese nation, farmers stick to the countryside, rarely go out of the village, and rarely stay away from the land on which they live. Few of them will go in and out of hotels and pubs. Their production is decentralized, independent and closely integrated with their own cultivated land. Their food comes from their own cultivated land and nature, and they try their best to solve their stomach problems directly with their own hands. Their production and living space is far from the town, and the city is a rare place for them to go all their lives. They have neither objective conditions nor subjective will to "spend money" or "luxury" in restaurants. This is a traditional custom handed down from generation to generation by their families and society, and it is also a traditional psychology that has almost lost its source for a long time.

However, hotels and pubs are the main parts of the catering industry in China's history, and they are generally located in various cities, ports or traffic areas. As for the "markets" in rural areas and mountainous areas, they are only temporary food stalls. Therefore, the catering industry in the history of China is first of all a city, especially a metropolis and a central city; Secondly, members of the middle class and above are basic consumers. This catering industry, which is only aimed at cities and high-level consumers, cannot be regarded as the public.

Great changes have taken place in the catering industry structure in the history of China, about after 1 1 century, especially after15th century. With the development of handicrafts and commerce, cities in China, especially some central cities, have developed, and the formation and strength of the civic class, which is mainly composed of businesses, various handicrafts, service industries or operators of the "tertiary industry" in history, has been growing, making the middle class and the society below it. In fact, the middle and low-grade food stores in the sense of enterprise structure have existed for a long time in the history of China, including Chang 'an, the capital of Han Dynasty, and many metropolises in Tang Dynasty. However, citizens below the middle class have not become decisive foreign food consumers. Until the end of the 20th century, the catering industry in China was basically the traditional model since the15th century. We say this not only because China people's cooking tradition of "operating by hand and mastering experience" has not fundamentally changed, but also because the proportion of "ordinary people" among the basic consumer groups is still very small. It is true that with the progress of the times, the development of social production and the process of urbanization (scale and function) can never be compared with history today. However, for a long time after the founding of the People's Republic of China, the sluggish development of the people's livelihood economy and the government's policy of low wages and curbing consumption fundamentally restricted the normal development of the social catering industry. The policy of "unified purchase and marketing" has been implemented for decades, and it was not until the early 1980s that the food stamp system was gradually abolished. In the past 30 years, the business trips of "cadres" and "employees" have brought tense consequences to the family income balance. According to government regulations, those who go on business trips get the "food allowance" at first every day, and then gradually increase it to several yuan, which can't make up for the deficit of their low-standard consumption in ordinary hotels such as "staff canteen", "guest house", "workers, peasants and soldiers" or "people" and "public" every day. At that time, the whole society was "clean" at the level of ordinary workers and cadres, and there was no so-called free "hospitality", "reception" and "farewell". Compared with the prevailing wind of sending and receiving banquets at that time, it was really two different worlds.

After the reform and opening-up in Chinese mainland in the 20th century, from high-star hotels in central cities to ordinary restaurants in general towns, a golden business opportunity was ushered in overnight. The catering market in China is developing wantonly under the completely liberalized policy and quite relaxed environment. People's catering life and national catering culture, led by large and medium-sized cities, have taken the lead in other sectors of the national economy and other fields of social culture, and entered the whirlpool of profound changes. The prosperity of the catering industry in China for more than 20 years is not only obvious to all Chinese people, but also attracts worldwide attention. It is this prosperity of the catering industry in China that "promoted" "China cooking" with the surprise of the unearthed Qin figurines and the excitement of the atomic bomb explosion. However, through the cooking or food culture bubble created by the clamorous propaganda of the catering industry and the advocacy articles of free diners, we can easily see such a harsh fact: the catering industry in China under the so-called "cooking kingdom" is basically operating in the traditional business philosophy, and "China cooking" has not jumped out of the structural framework for hundreds or even more than two thousand years. The fundamental reason is that the structure of consumer groups has not changed fundamentally, and the service objects are still traditional special consumption types such as official hospitality, courtesy and entertainment for quite some time. A fundamental feature is that the main economic support of all these consumption types is not the fixed salary of individual pockets. Therefore, sumptuous luxury naturally becomes the intentional feature of this special consumption type beyond the significance of human nutrition and health. During this period, we can know its great significance from countless cooking books, luxurious banquets in hotels and restaurants, the propaganda of "food culture" and "food art" in various coal bodies, and a large number of articles in newspapers criticizing extravagance and public funds for eating and drinking. After extensive and in-depth investigation and study, Japanese scholars correctly pointed out: "To understand the popular diet in contemporary China, we can't take the recipes in restaurants as the main basis." This view is correct because of the following two considerations: first, restaurants (not porridge shops) only serve a very small number of specific consumer groups in the proportion of ethnic minorities; Secondly, the dishes and other foods in the restaurant are very different from the daily diet of ordinary families in terms of raw materials (main ingredients, auxiliary materials and seasonings), technology, style and flavor. Therefore, from the basic characteristics, it is still a continuation of tradition.

What I said above is only the basic tendency, which is a certain trend shown by the thought of national cultural order. It reflects the civilization degree of contemporary China society's diet lifestyle and the general rational level of people's diet culture. This food culture order, which has lasted for tens of thousands of years or even longer, is formed by the tradition of national food lifestyle and national food culture. However, this is not to say that the catering industry and ethnic food culture in China in the last 20 years are completely a simple repetition of the traditions and customs handed down. Of course, this is not the case. The fact is, while keeping the tradition and the old order unchanged, change and development coexist. However, this change and development has not broken through the old model, so the mass catering industry is growing in the form of undercurrent, but it has not yet formed the mainstream.

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