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Manchu ancestors lived between the white mountains and the black waters, and chose robes with good warmth as their daily clothes to adapt to the cold climate for a long time. In the mid-Ming Dynasty, Manchu absorbed the coat-style clothing of the Han nationality in the Central Plains and improved it into a "flag dress" with its national characteristics, also known as "cheongsam". After the establishment of the Qing Dynasty, due to the compulsory promotion of Manchu aristocratic rulers, the flag dress was popular all over the country, but it was quickly integrated with the traditional clothing of the Han nationality. In the Republic of China, modern western fashion elements were added, forming a modern cheongsam with China national characteristics. Since the 21th century, great changes have taken place in Manchu economy and culture, and many traditional costumes are very rare. Manchu ancestors were safari people. In the era when the haircut technology was not developed, in order to adapt to the long-term safari life, Manchu men chose braided hair as their hairstyle. Its practice is to shave the hair on the forehead first to avoid blocking the line of sight and facilitate archery or fighting. The hair at the back is braided instead of braided to adapt to riding bumps. This hairstyle was once enforced in the whole country by political means for the rulers in the Qing Dynasty.

In history, Manchu men mostly wore gowns with horseshoe sleeves, belts around their waists, or gowns with double-breasted jackets, cool hats in summer and sloppy leather hats in winter. Clothes are made of cotton, silk, silk, satin and other materials with blue, blue and brown colors, with blue leg straps on the trouser legs, cotton boots or leather boots on the feet, and leather Ula in winter. Braid the top and shave off the surrounding hair.

flag dress

since the 21th century, Manchu economy and culture have undergone tremendous changes, and many traditional costumes are very rare. However, from movies, TV shows and museums, we can often appreciate the elegance of the old flag costumes. Among them, women's headdresses, which are wide and long, fan-like and crown-like, are called "flag head" in Chinese and "Dalachi" in Manchu, which are unique to Manchu women all over the world, thus becoming a typical national costume feature and attracting attention.

In the past, Manchu women had to learn to ride and shoot like boys when they were young, and their hair accessories were similar to those of boys. They shaved off more hair around the top of their heads, leaving only part of their hair to be braided into two girls' braids, which hung over their temples, until they reached adulthood at the age of 16. After marriage, I began to wear a big basin head, a shelf head and two first-class buns, of which two heads are more typical. The two heads are to tie the hair on the top of the head and divide it into two locks, each of which is made into a bun, and then the rest of the hair at the back is made into a "dovetail" long flat bun. Usually, a hairpin with a length of 21-31 cm and a width of 23 cm is horizontally inserted into the bun. When celebrating an auspicious day or receiving distinguished guests, you should wear a Dora.

Flag Head

The "flag head" is called "Dalachi" in Manchu, which is a headdress worn by Manchu women in general etiquette or wedding occasions. The specific method is to use iron wire or bamboo rattan as the hat frame and green satin, green velvet or green yarn as the surface, and wrap it into a fan-shaped headdress about 31 centimeters long and 11 centimeters wide. It can be fixed on the bun when it is worn. It is often embroidered with patterns, inlaid with jewels or decorated with various flowers and decorated with long tassels. This headdress is mostly used by Manchu upper-class women, and it is only used by ordinary women at weddings, festivals, or sacrifices to ancestors. Wearing this wide and long ornament limits the twisting of the neck and makes them straight. Coupled with the long cheongsam and high-end flag shoes, they walk with delicate steps, which is particularly stable and elegant.

horseshoe shoes

In addition to "cheongsam" and "Dalachi", Manchu women's "flag shoes" are also very distinctive. In the old days, Manchu women were different from Han women. They advocated strong feet, climbed mountains and rode horses, refused the bad habit of foot-binding, and took big feet as beauty. As a result, sufficient creative space was obtained in the decoration of shoes and socks, and "flag shoes" came into being. This kind of elaborately embroidered flag shoe takes wood as the bottom and the root of the shoe rises from the center. This kind of shoe is commonly known as "flag shoe" or "high-soled shoe". "High-soled shoes" are mainly divided into two types, one is called "flowerpot bottom" shoes; The other is called "horseshoe sole" shoes. Its wooden heel is generally about 5-11 cm, some can reach 14-16 cm, and the highest can reach about 25 cm.

It is usually wrapped in white cloth and then embedded in the middle of the sole. Because of the different shapes of the heel, there are two styles that are usually distinguished: one is open at the top and convergent at the bottom, the heel is oval, and the inverted ladder-like shape looks like a flowerpot from a distance; the other is thin at the top and wide at the bottom, flat at the front and round at the back, and its shape and landing marks are all like inverted horseshoe prints. "flowerpot bottom" and "horseshoe bottom" are named after this, and they are also collectively called "high-soled shoes". In addition to the embroidered patterns or decorative pieces such as cicada butterflies on the upper, the parts where the wood can't follow the ground are often decorated with embroidery, gold and silver or beads. Some shoe tips are also decorated with fluffy balls or ears made of silk thread, and the ears can reach the ground for the longest time. The high-heeled wooden sole of this kind of shoes is extremely strong, often the upper is broken, while the sole is still intact and can be reused. High-heeled flag shoes are mostly worn by Manchu youths and middle-aged women over 16 years old in ceremonial occasions. The flag shoes of elderly women are mostly made of flat wood, which is called "flat shoes", and the front end of them is slightly cut to facilitate walking. Among bureaucrats and nobles, young, middle-aged or elderly women can wear high-heeled shoes. In modern society, these shoes are not worn at ordinary times except for theatrical performances.

since ancient times, Manchu people have the custom of "cutting wood for shoes". There are many opinions about the origin of this kind of high-soled shoes. One view is that in the past, Manchu women often went up the mountain to collect wild fruits, mushrooms, etc. In order to prevent insect bites, they tied wooden blocks on the soles, and later they made increasingly sophisticated shoes and developed them into high-soled shoes. There is also a legend that in order to cross a mud pond and recapture the city occupied by the enemy, the ancestors of Manchu learned the appearance of white cranes and tied high branches on their shoes, and finally won, achieving the goal of revenge and development. In order not to forget those miserable days and to commemorate the contribution of stilted wooden shoes, women put on these shoes and passed them down from generation to generation, becoming more and more exquisite and beautiful, and became like this later.

during the Qing dynasty

in history, Manchu men liked to wear long blue fashion, which was quite different from that of Manchu women in the past.

Manchu costumes were popular all over the country in the Qing dynasty, but now they are the same as Han costumes. Manchu women don't bind their feet, and their shoes are embroidered with beautiful flowers, and the center of the sole is padded with a wooden heel with a height of 11 cm. Manchu women can walk with their heads held high and their waist swaying. Manchu women's hair styles have changed a lot. When they were girls, they simply pulled their hair behind their heads. When you get married soon, you should braid your hair and put it into a single bun. After marriage, there are many kinds of hairstyles, such as double bun and single bun. The double bun hairstyle combs your hair from the top of your head into two parts. The front bun is combed into a flat top for wearing a crown, and the back bun of the neck is combed into a dovetail shape and spread out behind the shin, which makes the neck always keep straight. Therefore, Manchu women are more noble and dignified when they walk.

Cheongsam is a kind of dress worn by Manchu men, women and children all year round. It is simple in cutting, wide in front and back, narrow in sleeves, cut in four pieces, and long in hem, which is convenient for getting on and off the horse. Narrow sleeves facilitate archery. Because the sleeve mouth is attached with horseshoe-shaped sleeves, it is also called horseshoe sleeves. After the Manchu gradually got rid of riding and shooting career, horseshoe sleeves have become decorations, and putting down horseshoe sleeves is still the etiquette for Manchu to pay tribute to the elderly and venerable people. Women's cheongsam is more decorative than men's cheongsam. The collar, front and cuffs are decorated with embroidery. With the changes of the times, the style of cheongsam has also changed greatly, and the four-piece cutting system has also been changed to two-piece cutting system. Cheongsam can show women's figure and curve well. The picture shows a vest worn by Manchu women in a cheongsam coat. Embroidered with exquisite patterns. Manchu women wearing cheongsam and dancing in court. Men wearing traditional Manchu cheongsam include robes with arrow sleeves and a vest, as well as hats of Manchu men.

Manchu men and women are very particular about headdresses, especially women's headdresses. When they grow up, they will have hair bun, which has a shelf head, a fork head and two handles, and is decorated with gold and silver ornaments and various flowers. Manchu women wear flat-topped hats every day, which are made of velvet or leather, embroidered with cloud patterns, with a brim and a large streamer behind them; Young women love fan-shaped crowns, which are black and made of blue velvet, plain satin or yarn. They are also called "flag heads". Manchu men wear small hats and felt hats on weekdays: small hats, also known as casual hats, are commonly known as "melon skin hats". They are made of six petals of black satin, and the top of the hat is decorated with a knot or beads. The six petals are sewn together, which symbolizes the unity of Liuhe and has auspicious meaning. [Edit this paragraph] In the houses of Manchu people, there used to be a shadow wall in the general courtyard, and there was a "Soren pole" for the gods. The traditional houses of Manchu nationality are generally three rooms in the west, middle and east, with the gate facing south, the west room being called the upper room in the west, the middle room being called the main room and the east room being called the lower room in the east. The west upper house is equipped with kang on the south, west and north sides.

Manchu houses are also unique. In the past, they all lived in a "pocket house" with a grass-topped earth wall. "The house is more than ten feet high, and it is the only southeast gate." A room at the east end opens to the south and is an outhouse; Two or three rooms in the west end are bedrooms, which are called back rooms. This "unique southeast leaf" structure, such as pocket shape, is convenient for keeping warm. Manchu people also like to sleep on a kang. Every household is a big kang in the north and south, and there is a narrow kang along the gable in the west of the house, which connects the north and south kang, commonly known as "Wan Zi Kang".

they respect the Xikang, and the Nankang is big and the Beikang is small. The south kang lives in the elders and the north kang lives in the juniors; Xikang is the ancestral shrine, with ancestral tablets on the wall, and incense tables on the kang. Generally, people don't live there, and young people and women are the most taboo. Only the elderly and relatives can sit. On the north, south and west sides of Manchu houses, there are "big windows", which are divided into upper and lower floors. The window edges are in the form of swastika or I-shaped, the paper is pasted outside the window, and the switch is outward, "for fear of tigers coming at night, it is easy to break in". There is no floor table in the room, only a kang table, which is used for eating and writing. In addition, the beams are often hung with strollers, which are made of birch bark (Muwei) into rectangles or ovals, and the babies born sleep in them, while the mother hums a lullaby while strolling. Therefore, a folk song says, "There are three monsters in the northeast: the window paper is pasted outside, the big girl is holding a cigarette bag, and she gives birth to a child and hangs it." [Edit this paragraph] Many traditional festivals of Manchu are the same as those of Han nationality. There are mainly Spring Festival, Lantern Festival, February 2nd, Dragon Boat Festival and Mid-Autumn Festival. Traditional sports activities such as pearl ball, vault, camel jumping and skating are generally held during the festival.

Golden Festival: It is the day of Manchu "national celebration". On 11/13/16/35, Huang Taiji issued an imperial edict, officially changing the family name "Nuzhen" to "Manchuria", which marked the formation of a new national isomorphism. In October, 1989, at the First Manchu Culture Symposium in Dandong, February 3rd of each year was officially designated as the "Golden Festival". Manchu compatriots from all over the country spontaneously held commemorative activities on the Manchu naming day on October 13 of the lunar calendar to commemorate the birth of Manchu. However, the names used in the activities are different, such as "naming day", "birth day" or "anniversary day".

Shangyuan Festival: the 15th day of the first month, commonly known as "Lantern Festival". Like the Han nationality, Manchu also has the custom of hanging lanterns and eating Yuanxiao.

Walking away from all diseases: a festival for Manchu women. Usually on the sixteenth day of the first month. On that night, women in groups of three or five traveled far away, or walked in the sand and rolled ice, or had fun, which was called "Walking with All Diseases".

Tian Cang Festival: Every year on the 25th day of the first month, every family in Manchu countryside pays attention to cooking sticky sorghum rice and putting it in the warehouse, weaving a pony with a straw stick and inserting it in the rice basin, which means that the horse carries food home and has plenty of food and clothing. On the first day, I added new rice and added it three times in a row. Some people also use sorghum stalks to make two hoes and stick them in their rice. This festival has been preserved in the rural areas of Northeast China.

February 2nd: commonly known as "Dragon Head Up Day". On the morning of the same day, Manchu people scattered kitchen ashes in the courtyard, and the ash road was curved like a dragon, so it was called "attracting dragons". Then a ceremony was held in the courtyard to pray for good weather. The whole family will eat "Longxu Noodles" and "Long Lin Cake". Women can't do needlework this day.

Insect King Festival: June day is prone to insect disasters. Manchu people living in Xiuyan and Fengcheng in Liaoning Province used to go to worship at the Insect King Temple on the sixth day of June, killing pigs for sacrifice, hoping to avoid disaster and ensure a good harvest in the field. Nowadays, there is no activity of sweeping the festival of the king of insects, but every family should dry their clothes on this day to prevent insects from eating.

Mid-Autumn Festival: The Manchu people take July 15th as the Mid-Autumn Festival, which is also regarded as a "ghost festival" to turn over the dead. At that time, temples around the country will set up Dojo, burn lamps and chant Buddhist scriptures, and hold various ceremony of crossing over. On the west side of the courtyard, there is a wooden screen to the east, and there are cockscomb flowers, edamame branches, fresh lotus roots, etc. hanging on the screen for the moon rabbit. There is a square table in front of the screen, with a big moon cake on it. When offering sacrifices, women worship first, and men worship later.

mountain-opening festival: a blessing activity for the Manchu people to collect herbs for a bumper harvest after the Mid-Autumn Festival in autumn or in the middle of September in the lunar calendar (the specific time is uncertain). In the past, every year in Manchu villages in Northeast China, they had to face Changbai Mountain for blessing and prayer, thanking the mountain gods for their rich gifts to herb gatherers, and the ginseng collected in this period had to be enshrined in their own shrines.

Laba Festival: Manchu people want to soak "Laba vinegar" and cook "Laba meat" on the eighth day of the twelfth lunar month. Besides food for the whole family, it should be distributed to relatives and friends.

off-year: the custom of off-year for Manchu people is the same as that for Han people. The 23rd day of the twelfth lunar month is the "off-year". At that time, every household will sacrifice to the kitchen god, commonly known as "sending the kitchen god."

Manchu: people who hang flags for the New Year

Manchu is divided into eight banners: red, red, yellow, yellow, blue, blue, white and white. During the Spring Festival, each flag bearer hangs his own flag on the door. These flags are beautifully patterned and brightly colored, symbolizing the auspicious beginning of the year. [Edit this paragraph] Manchu culture In terms of culture, Manchu has made important contributions to Chinese culture. The books compiled by Xuanye, the holy ancestor of the Qing Dynasty, such as Interpretation of Phonology, Mathematical Essence, Examination of Calendar Images, and Panorama of the Imperial Palace, all have high scientific value. In the early Manchu works, there were a large number of books necessary for learning Manchu, such as the Enlightenment of Qing Dynasty, the Classic of Qing Dynasty and the Guide to Qing Dynasty. Qing Wen Jian has been revised for many times and compiled into five Manchu dictionaries in different national languages-Imperial Five-Style Qing Wen Jian, which is an important reference material for political, economic and cultural exchanges among Manchu, Han, Mongolian, Tibetan and Uygur nationalities. Translation of books is also very common. Most of the major Chinese classics have Manchu translations. Apart from official books, folk stories such as Romance of the Three Kingdoms, Romance of the West Chamber, Jin Ping Mei and Strange Tales from a Lonely Studio all have Manchu translations. Among them, the translation of Strange Tales from a Lonely Studio by Zachdan is the best, with a high level of writing. At the same time, a number of Manchu writers emerged. The Side Hat Collection and Drinking Water Collection, written by Nalan Xingde, an early famous ci writer, are fresh, graceful, vivid and natural, which are comparable to Zhu Yizun and Chen Weisong, the famous Han people in the ci world at that time, and are called "three great poets". In the mid-Qianlong period, A Dream of Red Mansions written by Cao Xueqin was a great realistic work, which pushed China's classical novel creation art to an unprecedented peak and became one of the world's literary masterpieces. Mr. Lao She, a Manchu, is not only a famous novelist and dramatist, but also an outstanding quyi artist. His works are numerous and well-known. It is worthy of being a contemporary "people's artist".

Manchu advocates Neo-Confucianism, and Manchu scholars have translated books such as The Great Learning, The Doctrine of the Mean, The Analects of Confucius and The Classic of Filial Piety into Manchu to teach the flag-bearers, and their art of calligraphy has reached a high level. From emperors, princes to ordinary Manchu literati, a large number of people attached their feelings to painting, and many famous painters appeared. Town, country, country, country, country, country, country, country, country, country, country, country, country and country. Comment on his small scene in Ikebukuro: "Pen and ink are light, get rid of the cup."