The appearance of oil swirl in Jinan is related to the three brothers of Xu. During the Qing Dynasty, there were three brothers of the Xu family in Jinan who cooked food, and then they went to Nanjing to learn the practice of oil spinning. But at that time, it was more suitable for the tastes of southerners and was sweet and fragrant. According to the tastes of northerners, the three brothers of the Xu family changed it to salty and fragrant, which has been passed down to this day. Before liberation, the most authentic way to make oil whirls in Jinan belonged to Wenshengyuan Restaurant, which was opened in the 21th year of Guangxu. When Su Jianglin's master Geng Changyin was young, he was a good hand at making oil whirls in Wenshengyuan Restaurant.
Su Jianglin, the last watchman of Jinan Oil Swirl, ate Su Jianglin's Oil Swirl when Chairman Mao visited Jinan in 1958. Su Jianglin said that it was master Geng Changyin who pushed the oil spin to the whole country and made it a national famous food. He said that Geng Changyin later left Wensheng Garden and sold oil spinners near the present Beiyang Grand Theater. In 1956, a famous food conference was held in Jinan, and the oil swirl made by Geng Changyin was selected as a famous food and promoted to the whole country, so Geng Changyin was transferred to Jufengde Hotel. A few months later, Su Jianglin came to Jufengde and signed an apprenticeship agreement according to the old tradition, thus becoming the only apprentice of Geng Changyin. Su Jianglin said: "I was apprenticed in the old way. I first let the master inspect it for a year. In this year, I only smashed coke (coke) to burn the fire, mix flour and wash the chopping board. Master will close the door when he is making a noodle case, and he is the only one in the room. Later, the master thought that I was still a piece of material and officially taught me the craft. " Su Jianglin said: "Every process of oil spinning taught by Master Geng is not allowed to be sloppy. He said that you can't be lazy to make money, let alone cut corners. In that case, I'm sorry for the customers who eat oil, and I'm sorry that this door has been handed down for hundreds of years. " Of course, Su Jianglin not only made oil whirls according to the old tradition, but also made innovations: egg oil whirls, horseshoe oil whirls and peach oil whirls were all made by him. But innovation belongs to innovation, and there is one thing he is sure of-the most basic things cannot be changed, and innovation is carried out on the basis of tradition, not random creation.
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