1. Cultural common sense clothing

Cultural common sense clothing 1. Knowledge about Hanfu culture

Hanfu is called "traditional clothing of the Han nationality".

It started in the Yellow Emperor, was prepared in Yaoshun, was shaped in the Zhou Dynasty, and flourished in the Ming Dynasty. After hand-painted ornamentation, cutting, sewing, ironing and other processes, it is unique in dyeing, weaving and embroidering. The main features are the right collar and bai lace-up. du is the projection of "Chinese civilization" and "state of etiquette" on clothing, showing Chinese style.

From the Yellow Emperor's "ruling the world by hanging down his clothes" to the Han national costumes before the Qing Dynasty. Although it has undergone changes, its main shape, "cross-neck and right-breasted, with top and bottom", has never changed.

expanding information

the status quo of Hanfu culture

With the gradual return of traditional culture, Hanfu weddings, Hanfu opening ceremonies, Hanfu sacrificial ceremonies and other forms of zhi Hanfu "shows" have been staged frequently in mainland China. The craze for Hanfu reflects the people's increasing attention to cultural traditions. However, whether it is the "crossing" experience of feather fan and black ribbon, or the awakening of traditional culture, the dispute between "dao" and "quality" in cultural inheritance has increasingly become the focus of attention of all parties.

After more than 11 years of development, Hanfu has already gradually entered the public's aesthetic vision from the cultural expression symbols of the young people. Behind the aesthetic changes, it is inevitable that the traditional culture of China, which has been contained in Hanfu for thousands of years, is pushing the youth groups to the forefront of the trend.

China News Network-Hanfu Charm and Amazing Trend Traditional Culture Recognized and Excavated by Young People

China News Network-Hong Kong University Students "Showing off" Hanfu Cultural Heritage leads to the dispute of "shape" and "quality"

2. A study of distinctive national costumes

China, an ancient country, has a profound cultural heritage, and the main ethnic Han nationality has created countless splendid civilizations.

As a form of expression of culture, clothes and costumes embody the aesthetics and values of the Han nationality. The concept of Hanfu Hanfu is the abbreviation of Han costumes: it mainly refers to the Han costumes formed in the process of natural cultural development and ethnic blending before the end of the Ming Dynasty.

Hanfu, as an independent clothing system, has formed a unique cultural background and national style in the historical inheritance and development, that is, it has formed distinctive style characteristics, which is obviously different from the traditional clothing of other ethnic groups in China and any other ethnic group in the world, and is qualitatively different from modern clothing in terms of standard style. Han costumes are extensive and profound.

This definition of Hanfu, the traditional costume of the Han nationality, is mainly based on the following three considerations: First, the nationality of Hanfu, that is, Hanfu is the costume of the Han nationality. And the clothes worn by China ancient conference semifinals can't be called Hanfu.

Nation is a whole concept, so the clothes of the Hu people worn by a Han nationality can't be called the traditional clothes of the Han nationality. Second, the tradition of the development of Hanfu, which must be divided into two aspects, namely, inheritance and unity.

The inheritance of Hanfu lies in the following aspects: the origin of Hanfu can be traced back to the period of the Yellow Emperor in ancient China, and it has kept its style inheritance and developed continuously. The unity of Hanfu is manifested in the fact that from the Yellow Emperor period to the Song and Ming Dynasties, in the vast land of China, in the time span of nearly 5,111 years and the spatial breadth of millions of square kilometers, all Han costumes have the same characteristics in their mainstream.

that is, right-back, big sleeves and deep clothes are typical representatives. Third, the naturalness of the development of Hanfu, that is, the natural development that is usually not easily perceived by people under the circumstances of * * * voluntary, which is also the regular law of the development of general things or cultures.

The naturalness of Hanfu's development is the foundation of the inheritance of a nation's traditional clothing, that is, the proper development and evolution direction of a certain thing or culture under its own normal development track. Its direction can be traced back to its source through general laws, and its development direction can also be predicted backwards.

according to this definition, in ancient China, all the clothes worn by * * before the end of the Ming Dynasty, except the clean clothes, can be called Hanfu, regardless of style, region, integration, differentiation and development, while the modern ancient costume, except the Qing costume, is different from the ancient times, but it is also based on the traditional style, so it can also be called Hanfu. Hanfu, on the other hand, can be easily distinguished from the traditional clothes of other nationalities (including full clothes, foreign clothes and modern clothes) with naked eyes. Now, this kind of Hanfu is often called "ancient clothes (except clear clothes)".

the costumes of the Qing dynasty, traced back, originated from Manchu costumes, and viewed backward, were not the tradition of Hanfu. Therefore, although it is worn by * * *, it does not conform to the "traditional" elements of traditional Han costumes, so it cannot be classified as Hanfu; Today, the clothing worn by * * * mainly comes from the west, and the "Tang suit", mandarin jacket and cheongsam mainly come from Manchu traditional clothing, so it can't be called "traditional clothing" of the Han nationality.

It is necessary to distinguish the difference between the clothes worn by a Han nationality and the traditional clothes of the Han nationality as a whole. The origin of Hanfu Because we are a nation that pursues the distance with caution, although the Shang and Zhou dynasties did have a style that was close to the inner lining, on the whole, we have always kept the original choice of our ancestors ... This is the origin of the right-handed.

As for long sleeves and wide sleeves, it may be a custom of the upper class after the accumulation of wealth, but Confucius paid attention to big sleeves (sewing clothes) in those days, so it became an essential element and prominent feature of literati decoration (of course, it also reflected our concept of life). About 5,111 years ago, during the Yangshao culture period in the Neolithic Age in China, people's lives became more and more stable, resulting in primitive agriculture and textile industry. They began to make clothes with woven linen, and later invented silkworm feeding and silk spinning, and people's clothes and costumes became more and more complete.

With the development of productive forces and social division of labor and the disintegration of primitive society, the development process of human society has undergone a qualitative change, from a classless society to a class society. Since then, clothing has become a tool for the ruling class to "show fame, distinguish prestige, etc."

The appearance of the coronation in the Yellow Emperor era marked the difference in rank. At first, there was a difference between * and *, and each was different, and the clothing system was gradually formed. The basic characteristics of Hanfu The style of men's wear: the one handed down from "The Yellow Emperor hangs down his clothes and governs the world" (represented by Qin and Han costumes), which lasted for Xia, Shang, Zhou (Spring and Autumn Period and Warring States Period), Qin, Han and Three Kingdoms, Jin, Northern and Southern Dynasties, Sui, Tang, Five Dynasties, Song, Mengyuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties.

This is the most common style of Japanese kimono. The T-shirt (worn by Li Shimin of Emperor Taizong), which was popular since Sui and Tang Dynasties, continued the Tang, Five Dynasties, Song, Mongolian, Yuan and Ming Dynasties, and influenced Japan, Korea and other countries.

Song Taizu and Ming Taizu all wear this kind of clothes. So far, the costumes worn by the Japanese emperor on some occasions are variations of this Hanfu.

There are relatively more styles of women's wear, but the basic styles are generally only two kinds of big-breasted and right-handed collar (also represented by Qin and Han costumes). Different from the deep clothes in Qin and Han dynasties, the big-breasted and low-cut clothes that emerged in Sui and Tang Dynasties are divided into the upper garment and the lower garment, and the clothes are no longer connected together like the deep clothes.

These two styles of women's clothing had a great influence on the national costumes (women's clothing) in Song and Ming Dynasties and Japan and Korea. During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, Han women also wore Hu clothes with narrow sleeves and tight lapels, but those Hu clothes were basically worn as popular clothes (or out of curiosity), not traditional Han national costumes.

Han women also wore some other styles in the Song and Ming Dynasties.

3. Classification of traditional costumes in China

Traditional costumes in China are an important part of traditional culture in China, and they are precious wealth created by the Chinese nation and even human society.

Although some archaeological data have been found on the costume forms of the primitive times of Chinese costumes in the Xia, Shang and Zhou Dynasties, it is impossible to give a detailed description of the costumes of this period because of too few materials. During the Xia, Shang and Zhou Dynasties, the costumes of the Huaxia people in the Central Plains were a top with a skirt and a right shirt.

A stone statue of a slave owner unearthed in Anyang, Henan Province, wearing a flat hat, a right-handed collar, a skirt, a big belt around the waist, legs tied and pointed shoes. This generally reflects the situation of Shang Dynasty costumes.

At the beginning of the Zhou Dynasty, system of rites and music made detailed regulations on the system of crown clothing for nobles and civilians, and the rulers showed their dignity and majesty with strict grade clothing. Deep clothing and coronation clothing began in the Zhou Dynasty, and these two kinds of clothing have had a far-reaching impact on later generations.

The appearance of Hufu in the Spring and Autumn Period The most important change in clothing during the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period was the widespread popularity of deep clothes and the appearance of Hufu. The war in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period promoted the reform of take off your coat Bo Dai, long skirt and robes.

King Wuling of Zhao broke through the resistance for the fighting capacity of the army, ordered the whole country to wear short clothes and trousers of nomadic people, and learned to ride and shoot, which finally made Zhao strong. This is the first clothing reform in the history of China, and Hu Fu has been popular since then.

With Hu Fu came a belt hook, which is used to end leather belts. Because it is more convenient than the way of tying leather belts, it quickly became popular. Related knowledge: "Hu" is a vague term. In different historical periods, it sometimes refers to Xiongnu, sometimes refers to nomadic peoples from northeast to northwest, and sometimes it is even broader.

Therefore, Hufu refers to the clothing of nomadic people in northern China. They wear short jackets with narrow sleeves, trousers and boots for the needs of nomadic riding. Shen Kuo said: "Since the Northern Qi Dynasty, China has been wearing Hu clothes."

The word "all" may be a bit exaggerated, but Hu Fu has a great influence on the development of Han costumes. The establishment of the traditional crown service system in the Han dynasty, deep clothes were still very popular in the Han dynasty, and the Han dynasty was the establishment period of the traditional crown service system.

pants in the Han dynasty were crotch-opening, which was called "pants" in ancient times. Shuowen: "Yi, Shin Yi also."

Interpretation of Names and Clothes: "The two strands are different from each other." It can be seen that at that time, the crotch was open and the outer cover was a petticoat or a deep coat.

Although full crotch pants appeared, open crotch pants still existed for a long time. The popularity of Hu clothing in Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties, Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties, was another great change in the history of ancient clothing in China.

As a large number of ethnic minorities have entered the Central Plains, Hufu has become a common costume in society, and the clothes of ordinary people are most strongly influenced by Hufu. They absorbed the factors such as tight sleeves, round neck and slit in Hu clothing into the original clothing.

The Han aristocrats also changed the Hufu by lengthening its length, enlarging the cuffs and trousers, and changing the left leg to the right leg. But the dress is still a traditional form of Han dress.

The transformation period of clothing in Sui and Tang Dynasties. Due to the stability and prosperity of politics and economy, Sui and Tang Dynasties can inherit the source of historical clothing and enlighten the clothing system of later generations. Therefore, this period has become an important historical period for the development of ancient Chinese clothing system. Men's uniforms are hoes, gowns and long boots.

however, the gown at this time is slightly different from that of the previous dynasty, with round neck, right neck, narrow sleeves and no edge for leaders. In addition, there are styles such as robes and gowns without crotch.

This kind of gown was mainly influenced by Hu Fu, and combined with the living habits and etiquette characteristics of Han nationality, which formed the style of gown in this period. The clothing in Song Dynasty tends to be conservative, generally following the Tang system, but there are some differences in clothing styles and names.

There are two styles of gown with short crotch in Song Dynasty: wide-sleeved bodice and narrow-sleeved bodice. The habit of wearing a coat and a half arm is extremely common, but neither can be worn as a dress.

Generally speaking, the costumes in the Song Dynasty were more formal and conservative, and the colors were not as bright as before, giving people a sense of simplicity, cleanliness and elegance, which was closely related to the social situation at that time, especially the influence of Cheng Zhu's Neo-Confucianism. In Liao, Jin and Yuan Dynasties, the costumes in Liao, Jin and Yuan Dynasties not only followed the formal dress system, but also had their own national characteristics. The costumes in Liao, Jin and Yuan Dynasties had the same characteristics, not only followed the formal dress system in Han, Tang and Song Dynasties, but also had their own national characteristics.

The clothes of Liao and Jin men are mostly round neck, short crotch robe with sleeves, boots or pointed boots, trousers and a belt around the waist. In the Yuan Dynasty, men's clothing included the Han people's round neck and collar robe, as well as their own grandson's clothes, which were similar in shape to deep clothes, with narrow sleeves and short skirts, reaching to the knees, and numerous pleats at the waist, like today's pleated skirts, and horizontal pleats at the waist.

The collar types are right-handed collar, square collar and disc collar. Wear trousers with small mouth and sewing boots on your feet.

the main colors are white, blue and ochre. In addition, great changes have taken place in the material of clothing in the Yuan Dynasty. Due to the extensive cultivation of cotton, cotton cloth has become the main variety of clothing materials.

Clothing in Ming and Qing dynasties inherited from the previous generation. Clothing in Qing dynasty had a great influence on modern times. Clothing in Ming dynasty generally followed the Tang system, but some styles in Song and Yuan dynasties were reserved. Clothing in the Qing Dynasty had a great influence on modern clothing forms. Unlike any previous dynasty, the Qing Dynasty was a dynasty in which ethnic costumes completely replaced Han costumes, and Han costumes gradually faded out of the historical stage.

Men's clothing in Qing Dynasty can be divided into two types: Manchu national clothing; Foreign western clothes. The style of robes in Qing Dynasty was changed on the basis of Manchu tradition and absorbed the characteristics of Han clothing.

Generally, sleeves are narrow and thin, and dresses are arrow sleeves, also known as horseshoe sleeves. The robe is tied with buttons.

You Yi Da Jin, round neckline. The robe of the royal family has four openings, front, back, left and right, while the ordinary men can only open the air on the left and right.

Horse hanging is a unique Manchu costume in Qing Dynasty. Most of its styles are round neck, with double lapel, big lapel and pipa lapel, and there are long sleeves, short sleeves, big sleeves and narrow sleeves, but all of them are flat cuffs.

it was not until the introduction of western clothing in the late Qing dynasty and the revolution of 1911 that China's clothing changed greatly and entered the stage of modern clothing development.

4. What are the taboos of dress etiquette and matters needing attention in dress

Dress etiquette is a code of conduct embodied in clothes in order to show mutual respect and friendship and achieve harmony in communication.

Clothing is a kind of culture, which reflects a nation's cultural level and the degree of material civilization development. Clothing has a strong performance function. In social activities, people can judge a person's status and self-restraint through clothing. Clothing can show the individual's inner pursuit of beauty and reflect his own aesthetic feelings; Clothing can improve a person's appearance and temperament, so clothing is a unity of inner beauty and outer beauty of human beings.

If you want to create a truly beautiful self, you must first master the etiquette norms of dress, and let harmonious and decent clothes show your talents and aesthetic accomplishment, so as to gain a higher social status. [Editor] The principle of dressing up Although dressing up has different effects due to different preferences and dressing styles, it has also achieved a colorful world of clothing, but we still have some basic principles to follow according to people's aesthetics and aesthetic psychology.

(1) The principle of neatness refers to the principle of neatness, which is the most basic principle of dress. A well-dressed person can always give people a positive feeling, and also show respect for each other and attention to social activities.