I don't like noisy and disturbing environment, and I don't like being in a busy and crowded scenic spot. Because of his quiet and unobtrusive introverted personality, he prefers to be quiet and yearn for the distance.
The national day holiday is coming, and I've been thinking about where to wander in the beautiful scenery for a few days. Finally, I set my eyes on Guizhou-Qiandongnan Prefecture, and put aside all the seemingly endless work on weekdays to enjoy the upcoming holiday easily.
Oh, my god, or 10 June 1 travel is the best! But how do I face the noise of crowds, cars and the sea? ! How to bear it? ! Really not as good as the sky, throwing caution to the wind! I will try to find the comfort and happiness brought by nature in the noise of festivals and the gap in the back of my head.
The first stop is Guiyang.
65438+1 October1afternoon 17:39 arrived at Guiyang North Station. It has been dusk recently since I left the station. In order to make it more convenient to take a bus tomorrow morning, I have to go to Guiyang Station by bus. On the bus, the beautiful scenery of the new Guiyang passed by the window. Spacious roads, high-rise buildings, rows of shops, colorful neon lights, street lamps and decorative lights in the business district reflect each other, as if in front of my distant guests, creating a beautiful night view of Guiyang to welcome me. The scenery outside the car window made me fall into a trance and memories.
In fact, this is the second time I set foot on Guiyang's land. The first time was in July of 1984. My friend kitten and I came to Guiyang with a beautiful vision. It was a drizzly morning. Guiyang greeted us with the natural features of morning breeze and drizzle, and what greeted us was a quiet, simple and elegant street view. At that time, we were 22 years old, young and in the prime of life, wandering around a place called Renmin Road, looking for it everywhere. We don't know where we went and what we saw. In short, our eyes are full of fresh and different smells from our hometown. Braving the drizzle, I returned to a temporary "guest house" in a school classroom in Guiyang. My hair and undershirt are wet, and my body can't help shivering. Climb into the bed made of desk to get a little dry and warm. The next day, the drizzle was still pouring all over the sky, and we left the humid Guiyang with our bags on our backs.
Garage, I think I think. In a short time, the destination Guiyang station arrived. When you get off the bus, the first priority is to look forward to a hot meal to fill your stomach, and then find a favorite hotel.
Go to a place full of lights, people and excitement, huh? It turned out to be a snack street! Sit down, order, eat, look around and ask. It turns out that this is the largest, most local and most affordable "Erqi Road" snack street in Guiyang.
The snack street is nearly 200 meters long and about 10 meters wide. It is covered with an iron ceiling from beginning to end. On one side is a shack with various snacks, and on the other side is a local food shop. It's really equally divided, and each has its own merits. In the middle are rows of conjoined tables and chairs provided by Coca-Cola Company for free. According to the staff, there are more than 400 kinds of snacks in the snack street, with thousands of seats for diners to enjoy. Next to my dining table, an advertising light box about eating appeared without losing time. The content is "I am a foodie, and I am crazy about eating". After reading it, it made me feel very sad, vivid and right. In short, from one end of the snack street, I stood on the high stool and glanced at the other end. All the diners are shrouded in the dense reflection of hot air and lights, which is quite spectacular. If I walk slowly from the next aisle, I will see a panoramic view of all kinds of diners' feasts. Perhaps this is the unique food scenery I met in Guiyang?
I found a greentown hotel. The sanitary conditions and hardware facilities of the hotel are quite good, but the price is a bit expensive. One night in 450 yuan. Just then, a guest made an online reservation and canceled it. I just politely asked for a vacant room, and finally made a deal with 160 yuan.
The second stop is Kaili.
The next morning, I took the K740 train to Kaili. After leaving the station, I feel that the weather is particularly clear and transparent. The eight characters can be summarized as: blue sky is like washing, white clouds are fluttering. At first glance, the station square, which is not too big, is crowded with green taxis, and taxi drivers are particularly enthusiastic, and they have come forward to "bomb" Xijiang Miao Village in turn. As we all know, the main scenic spot in Kaili, Guizhou Province is the well-known Xijiang Miao Village.
We bought a car with a young mother and daughter from Beijing, each 25 yuan. The taxi is at the end of the parking lot. After some tossing, it slowly drove out, heading for the city and heading for the Xijiang River. In the car, in order to make everyone happy and break the silence of strangers, I immediately asked the driver some interesting questions. The driver surnamed Zhang, 32 years old. He is neither tall nor fat, but he feels thin and powerful. He has been driving a taxi for more than ten years. His wife is a Miao, and he has two children, a man and a woman. Previously, Miao people were not allowed to intermarry with other nationalities. Later, the Miao gradually accepted the Han nationality, and the previous customs were broken.
Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture, located in Kaili, the capital of Qiandongnan Prefecture, governs 16 counties and cities. Leishan County is one of them, and Xijiang is a town in Leishan County, so the Miao village I am going to is a village in Xijiang, 39 kilometers away from Kaili.
After driving on a flat and wide avenue for a period of time, the car turned into a township road with only two lanes opposite in the mountainous area. One side of the road is a long mountain, and the other side is a gully along the road. It can be said that the road is ups and downs, rugged and tactfully, and there are sharp turns in the mountains every 200-500 meters. Drivers are young, quick-witted, driving at high speed and overtaking, as if they don't let other cars get in the way ahead. Sitting in the car, we are constantly pushed around by inertia and drift back and forth in the narrow space inside the car. We only feel that the car is speeding, the scenery outside the car is drifting rapidly, and the air inside the car seems to be frozen by tension. Our hearts are in our throats, staring and our mouths slightly open. It is silent and quiet! It was quiet, except for the low roar of the car engine.
Sitting in the back row, I boldly moved forward and secretly looked at the odometer, showing that the driver was driving at a speed of 80 kilometers per hour. If I don't watch it, I will be scared out in a cold sweat. Judging from a feeling of driving experience, the narrow roads in the mountains are unpredictable, and the speed of 80 kilometers per hour is simply a racing car! Danger is watching us! I reminded the driver to pay attention to safety in time. The driver's words put us at ease for the time being. He said that there are at least 200 days on this line in 365 days a year. It can be said that he is quite familiar with the road conditions, and the fastest speed took more than half an hour to complete this distance. In the off-season, there are four trips a day from Kaili to Miaozhai. After listening to it, I regained a little confidence in safety and security. After all, he knows more about mountain roads, and my worry may be unnecessary, but I have been thinking, "Kill me, I will never take your flying car again ..."
The third stop is Xijiang Qianhu Miao Village.
When I arrived in Miao Village, I said goodbye to the taxi driver and told him to drive slowly. I want to say a few more words. I didn't say much because there were passengers to take the bus. It seems that his business is very good.
Standing at the entrance of Miao village, a dark brown cornice gatehouse with Miao style is striking, simple and dignified. Walking on the slate road in Miao village, when you look around, you will see rows and rows of butter-colored and wood-colored Miao wooden diaojiao buildings, which spread from near to far and from low to high along the banks of a small river. The diaojiao building is built on the mountain, and it is layered, not only in rows, but also in pieces. From a distance, the windows of a family are flashing like life, gathering, arranging, stringing and piecing together. The scale is huge and the momentum is magnificent, giving people a beautiful visual impact and unparalleled shock. Seen from a close distance, it can be regarded as a beautiful picture created by Miao people in nature.
Climbing a mountain and overlooking it, there will be another unique beauty, but you can't help it, so you have to give up, so you let yourself walk between wind and rain bridges, cornices, stone steps, narrow lanes and small bridges, looking for, appreciating and sighing the emotional beauty everywhere.
Perhaps, just a slogan, set off by this scene here and now, can bring you a good mood and indescribable joy. Because it happened to be the National Day holiday, Miao Shanzhai was overcrowded and it was hard to find a room. However, I saw a small tourist station with an ingenious slogan "I have a room today, waiting for you to go to bed", which made people laugh and clap their hands.
Wandering around, endless beauty, endless reading of Miao culture and history. While I appreciate Miao Village, I am also thinking about it. Several key questions flashed through my mind from time to time. What is Xijiang? What is a thousand Miao villages? Why is the Miao population so large? What is the practical value and characteristics of diaojiao building? I walked around, looked around, looked around, asked around, and gradually got the answer.
Xijiang is not a river, but a town name. The beautiful river flowing through Miao Village is Baishui River. Xijiang is a transliteration of the Miao language "Chicken Talk", which means the place where the Xi branch of Miao nationality lives. Later, I don't know who gave this place a beautiful and elegant name Xijiang.
Xijiang Miao Village, 833 meters above sea level, is located in a small basin among the mountains. There are more than 10 villages densely scattered in this narrow basin, and 1250 families live here together. It is the largest Miao village in China and even in the world. The heavy Miao history, rich Miao customs and quaint architecture have become the biggest attractions here, and the reputation of Xijiang Miao Village has emerged from this.
The diaojiao building in Miao village is mainly made of wood, and it is built on the mountain, mostly with three floors. The base is made of bluestone and pebbles. According to the custom of Miao people, livestock live on the first floor, people live on the second floor, and granaries are on the third floor.
Why do Miao people choose to live in southeastern Guizhou? This must have an inevitable connection with the history of Miao nationality. I also know a little about the tip of the iceberg and a drop in the ocean in its historical facts by asking, studying and consulting materials. Here, I'd like to say a few words to entertain my friends.
Miao nationality has a long history. In the ancient history of China, there are records about Miao ancestors five thousand years ago. The ancestors of Miao people can be traced back to the Chiyou tribe, which was active in the Central Plains in primitive society. Miao people migrated many times in history, mainly to escape the war and the imperial court's pursuit. The general route was from the Yellow River valley to Hunan, Guizhou and Yunnan. Therefore, it is not difficult for me to draw a conclusion that if we want to escape from war and hunting, we must choose mountainous and inconvenient geographical environment to hide. Then the topography, landforms and landforms in southeastern Guizhou may be the most ideal choice for Miao ancestors.
Qiandongnan Prefecture has a total area of 30,337 square kilometers, with a distance of 220 kilometers from east to west and a span of 240 kilometers from north to south. The terrain is high in the west and low in the east, and it is sloping from west to north, east and south. The highest altitude is 2178m, and the lowest altitude is137m. The territory is criss-crossed, with continuous mountains and steep cliffs. There are virgin forests such as Leigong Mountain, Yuntai Mountain and Foding Mountain in the territory, which is known as "nine mountains, half water and half fields". Seeing this, I think it's time to have an epiphany on why Miao people live here. !
There is another passage, which is not only a classic summary of Miao history. Nan, a famous journalist and young writer of Miao nationality, wrote: "The Miao nationality was driven away or even wiped out, but they never gave up their lives and ancestors. For 5,000 years, they have traveled through mountains and rivers and experienced hardships. They fled from the Central Plains to the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau and other parts of the world, looking for their hometown at sunset, raising ancient songs and myths with blood, without resentment, taking cliffs as their home, building terraces on the mountains and believing in everything.
The fourth stop is Zhenyuan.
The trip to Zhenyuan was decided temporarily. When I checked the train route from Kaili to the east, I learned that Zhenyuan stopped halfway. The first message Zhenyuan gave me was a photo published in a photography magazine many years ago. As for the artistic theme expressed in the picture, I have long forgotten it, but the name Zhenyuan has been lightly printed in my mind. There must be some fascinating reasons why the photographer can persistently express beauty through the lens, so my temporary decision should be regarded as a beautiful encounter.
I arrived in Zhenyuan in an afternoon, and the station still retains the style of the 1980s. The low platform paved by inverted W-shaped cement awning and cement blocks extends far away in a certain arc. The platform is on the mountain, the station is under the mountain, and passengers get on and off through a sloping iron corridor. The front of the station also surprised me. The two Chinese characters "Zhenyuan" on the main building of the station are small, unremarkable, unremarkable at all, and have no modern aesthetic feeling. They look like a face with a plain face.
Looking for a place to stay while walking, it's getting dark. The prices of hotels, hotels, guest houses, hotels and family hotels are staggering. Perhaps because of the full house, we didn't see any active and enthusiastic invitation to enter the store along the way. I wonder why there are so many tourists in a small county. How can house prices remain high?
When the silver stars covered the dark blue night, we settled down in a family-style hotel. According to the boss, it is the tourist season, and the room rate of 500 yuan a night is low.
Lying in bed, looking at the dim night outside the big glass window, thinking about the hard work and fatigue of searching all the way, it is inevitable that a new curiosity will add to your heart and keep you away. What kind of beauty do you have Let me take the trouble to find a place to live in the dark and grieve?
When there was a glimmer of morning light in the sky, I packed my bags and came to the street. There are few pedestrians on the street. Look at the road on the street, look at the mountains near the roadside, look at the semi-circular exposed tunnel under the mountain not far away, and look at the steaming food stalls not far from me. 1 When the bus came, I bought two hot and sharp sugar triangles. I'm hungry. Not hungry. I want to blend into the atmosphere of street life, just to be worthy of the unique tranquility, simplicity and tranquility in front of me.
The bus took me across the street and got off at the station I inquired about before getting on. There are more pedestrians and vehicles on the road, which adds liveliness and agility to the quiet morning. Came to a stone bridge, through the thin morning fog, a light green river leisurely displayed in front of us, clear and transparent river, microwave ups and downs, a boat swinging on the water like a fairy tale, a worker cleaning up water plants. Both sides are blue-gray diaojiao buildings, cornices are opposite at will, and the wooden plank road winds along the river to the distance. Stone bridges, rivers, cornices, small buildings with strings of red lanterns, morning fog and moonlit sky are combined together like a watercolor painting. A few strokes are sparse, and the makeup is light, and the embellishment is silent. It is really artistic, which pulls my vision from near to far.
Just came to the bridge, walked along the river bank and walked on the plank road made of wooden strips. Not many people get up early. A morning exerciser came running head-on, a student-like person sketched on the shore, an old man was fishing by the river, and there were some flowers and plants on the edge of the building. Everything seems so natural, elegant and beautiful except that the story may be hidden in the door of the small building.
Chatting with the fishing old man, staring blankly at the ancient pier of Tianhou Palace and stopping at the ancient ferry of Mi Pier, that short time is doomed to be wasted by me. Chatting, staring blankly, stopping to recall are some of the great pleasures of life, at least I think so.
I like the picturesque scenery in front of me, and I also like the quiet morning.
There are more and more people, and waves of people seem to be coming to Zhenyuan Ancient Street. I am still walking slowly on the road paved with bluestones in the old street. The clean and orderly atmosphere makes me like it and make me happy.
Stone drums arranged every few meters on both sides of the road will lead my eyes to the distance; On both sides of the street are diaojiao buildings with cornices and high walls with Huizhou architectural style. Wherever we go, the old building "business card" with a courtyard and a room is embedded in the street, as well as ancient silver shops, docks, escort agencies and country post stations, which makes people have an impulse to read history.
Just walking leisurely, watching, listening and thinking, everything is dominated by the heart. You can sit at the door of any inn or in front of the teahouse. It seems that vagrants can watch the slow antique buses on the street, watch the propaganda about Zhenyuan history with their eyes, and listen to the introduction of local people and tour guides. In this way, let this period of time slow down and let your heart really relax once and for all.
I have been to many old streets and towns; The small bridges and flowing water in the south of the Yangtze River and the vicissitudes of the atmosphere in the north of the Yangtze River left an indelible impression on me, but the scenery in Zhenyuan surprised me even more, and the atmosphere was even more extraordinary.
Zhenyuan, a black jade-like ribbon of Wuyang River, is embedded in the center of the town in an S-shaped flow. Streets, shops, docks and houses are built by the river, and the green hills on both sides look down and protect the people and fertile fields here like mountain gods.
Here, the ancient and the modern are intertwined, and you can see the pavilions you have seen in the past and the neon lights of today. I can hear anecdotes of stories I have seen in the past, and I can also smell new songs and songs now; Clear water, morning mist, and fishing and fire by the riverside are more poetic.
Walking here, there is a feeling that the years have settled, there are traces of the passage of time, there is a kind of beauty that permeates people's hearts without publicity or surprise, like a faint green Wuyang River quietly and slowly flowing into people's hearts, like a fisherman who is always at dawn, adding a little chic and vivid beauty to the quiet town; The people, scenery, things and natural beauty of a small town all come from a kind of quietness and indifference.
Get rid of those rigid exaggerations, wash away the secular lead, the green water is clear, and the white clouds are as long as an ink painting, which really makes quiet people leave their troubles behind, have a pot of tea and be in a daze for a day.
I forgot where I saw the sentence "If you are interesting, then this place is interesting." It really makes sense. Don't many people just want to be interesting? Keep walking on the road, so as not to waste this life! Zhenyuan is a place with attachment and memories, beautiful, indifferent and quiet.
I'm leaving, taking away my disappointment and memories of her and looking for the next post station where I can put my good mood. Is it a dock or a harbor? Is it mountain or water? Is it a natural island or a small country shop? As long as there is a feeling of being away from the noise and relaxed, it may be the place I want to stay in the end.