What is Shanghai bad food? Maybe a lot of outsiders do not understand, but as long as the Shanghai people must understand what it is, this food is even Du Yuesheng all clap their hands, so this type of food is very delicious, not only to maintain the original flavor of the food, but also because of the bad brine and more fragrant.

This kind of food, if you did not come to Shanghai when you have tasted, then you must now be some regret, then, the next, I will introduce you to some of the Shanghai bad goods it! See what are the delicious Shanghai bad goods!

Let Du Yuesheng can not forget the head of the bad bowl

Old Shanghai people no one does not know Du Yuesheng, this year's rogue tycoon both trafficked in opium, opened a casino, but also line of charity, resistance to the East.

April 1949, Du Yuesheng went to Hong Kong alone, at this time he was already 60 years old, he did not understand Cantonese, and not many friends, so, and most of the people in years, lying in a wide rocking chair over and over again in the memories of his hometown.

For those who are alone in a foreign land, the taste of home is the best carrier of homesickness, but Hong Kong does not have this Shanghai flavor. In fact, even in Shanghai, he only recognizes one flavor, and that's the century-old restaurant "Dexingkan", and the cooks at home can't make that flavor anyway.

That kind of long and elegant flavor was once so close, but now it is so far away. Finally, he decided that no matter how much it cost, he would ask the Shanghai chef to make a trip to Hong Kong, and that he could no longer bear to live without that flavor.

So he asked his former head bookkeeper, Wong Kwok Tung, to return to Shanghai and find Tak Hing Koon.

At that time, due to the U.S. naval blockade, ships from Shanghai could not reach Hong Kong directly, so Huang Guodong, holding Du Yuesheng's handwritten letter, found Pan Hannian, who was the deputy mayor of Shanghai at the time, and Pan Hannian found a way to arrange for two chefs from the Tak Hing Pavilion to go to Hong Kong via a detour through a third country.

The dish that Du Yuesheng couldn't get out of his mind is "bad bowl head". For Du, who was born in Shanghai's Chuansha district, the flavor of the dish itself was the embodiment of Shanghai.

From a humble chowder to Shanghai's most famous dish

This very unassuming dish is arguably the oldest of all the local dishes, with a history of more than 210 years.

The basic shaping of Benbang Cuisine took place during the Tongzhi and Guangxu years of the late Qing Dynasty, while its gestation process was obviously much longer. Before the Xianfeng era, before China signed any "unequal treaties" with foreign countries, Shanghainese food was basically homemade, commonplace Gangnamese dishes.

These dishes, such as shredded pork, braised sausage, and pickled fresh pork, were often made from ordinary, inexpensive ingredients, and from this point of view, Shanghai was still a small, "not very good" city.

Shredded Pork

Braised Large Intestine

Pickled Pork

The same goes for the dish, which started out as a pot of pork jowl. The difference with today's world is that in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, pork was very valuable, while the offal was not very valuable, these ears, brain, tongue, lungs, liver, belly and other offal is often the poor people's "kill cravings" after killing the pig.

And the practice of these "kill the greedy" thing is extremely simple, that is, a pot of stew, Shanghai dialect called "duk".

If we all simply "duk" down, then that kind of marketplace flavor may only be of interest to local history researchers. But this dish "Duk" to the Qing Dynasty Jiaqing years, a local chef called Xu San, changed a "Duk" method. As a result, the famous dish was born.

The birth of jiaobotou

Xu San is from Sanlin Tang in Pudong, Shanghai. In the past, rural villages used to pass on certain livelihood skills, such as carpentry in Dongshan, Suzhou, jade work in Hangji, Yangzhou, and brick carving in Zhengcun, Shexian, as if they were hereditary, depending on the region.

Sanlintang this place has always been a place of chefs, learning to cook is the local people in addition to farming is the most important livelihood craft, most of the later generations of famous chefs from Pudong Sanlintang, so Sanlintang has a "cradle of the local food," said. And Xu San is a small craft to make a living by cooking "migrant workers".

So, what kind of revolutionary improvement was made to Xu San's "Duk" method? According to Songnan Lefu, "Xu San is good at cooking pig's feet with plum frost. In recent years, the restaurant in the bowl to store lees, into the pig's ear, brain, tongue and liver, lungs, intestines, stomach, etc. said that the bad bowl of head, the euphuistic people said delicious."

This delicious in the end what degree of beauty? There is a poem to prove it: "Songnan good, the flavor of the old once knew. Sheep scapula open ZongZhongDaiJiu, dolphin hooves on the table night XuSan, food most Jiangnan."

Jiangnan in the Qing Dynasty, eat mutton like today, like eating Yan Baofeng, is extremely honored, because Jiangnan does not produce sheep, this luxury of eating to go back to the Northern Song Dynasty into the Southern Song Dynasty, Kaifeng, the gang of dignitaries from the north of Henan to bring over a kind of dietary addiction

(at the same time to bring another kind of dietary addiction is to sweet for elegant, which is the same does not produce sugar cane and sugar beet Jiangnan is more extravagant).

Xu San's dish was not only "on the table", but also on a par with Dai Jiu, who made mutton, so it is clear that the literati back then gave Xu San and Xu San's bad bowl of head a fairly high evaluation.

But the Chinese food history recorders tend to have a similar bad habit, that is, the so-called "gentleman away from the kitchen", then most of the literati are not bothered to record the chef in the end how to make dishes, which is often a lot of legends in the Chinese food forest, a lot of poetry, but very little of the history of the letter of the reason! One of the reasons.

Said half a day, this bad pot head of delicious in the end is how it is, or the same as did not say, after all, the adjective is not heap delicious.

When the dish was introduced in the Republic of China, local restaurants such as "Dexing Hall" had already studied it thoroughly, and had reached the point where it never missed a beat.

"Everything that enters the mouth can be spoiled."

The term "spoiled food" refers to food made from the leftover lees of yellow wine, or food that has been pickled or roasted.

Making lees is rumored to have originated in the pre-Qin and Warring States period, and the earliest is contained in the "Chu Rhetoric" more than 2,000 years ago; to the Southern Song Dynasty.

Ancient books in the capital city of Lin'an sold bad abalone, bad sheep's feet, bad crab, bad pork records; to the Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, in addition to the city supply of bad products, has developed to the family homemade, the Qing Dynasty, Cao Xueqin penned the "Dream of the Red Mansion," mentioned the bad goose paw bad quail and other exquisite bad taste.

Yuan Mei in the "with the garden food list" also have homemade bad meat, bad chicken, bad replica bags records.

"Bad" and "drunk" are similar, the seasoning are derived from wine, the practice is similar, so there is "bad drunk family" called. Jiangnan since ancient times for the rice production area, is also a yellow wine of the former bad shoots township. The dish can be bad unusually rich, bad chicken, bad belly, bad door cavity, bad chicken claws and even bad beans, etc., can be described as a variety of things, everything.

The ancients had exaggeratedly described: "the entrance to the things, all can be bad."

The basis of the bad brine is the bad mud, for the lees of the wine that has not been thoroughly fermented, which used to be available in the brewery, and there was a lot of it. Especially on New Year's Day, the rural suburbs of Shanghai to kill chickens and slaughter pigs, can not eat, either pickled, or lees up, known as "raw lees".

In addition to meat, fish can also be bad, Yuan Mei knows this method: "winter with a large carp, pickled and dried, into the wine lees, placed in the altar, sealed. Summer food." The above bad meat bad fish, essentially talking about raw fish and meat pickled with wine lees, a way of preserving food, objectively formed a flavor, a food culture.

Vegetables can also be bad, "with the garden food list" in "take pickled wind deflated vegetables, vegetable leaves wrapped, each small packet, paved one side of the lees, overlapping the altar. When taking food, open the package to eat, the bad does not stain the vegetables, and vegetables get bad flavor. This is essentially the same as the pickles.

Now to vegetables to bad, more choice of beans, commonly known as "bad beans", for a very wonderful wine dishes, eat bubble rice, but also very appetizing.

To particles full of fresh wool bean pods, cut off the ends of the sharp corners, scrubbed clean in the water, cooked on a high flame, bad teeth like rotten, can also be stewed for a little while, but the quality will be almost, the color of turquoise to yellow, but the texture will be very glutinous. When the beans cooled, and then poured into the bad brine.

The bad brine looks simple, but in fact quite sophisticated. The lees are crushed and added to yellow wine and spices such as star anise, allspice, cinnamon, fennel, white corns, peppercorns, lemongrass, onion, ginger, cinnamon, etc., and then stirred thoroughly and then left to stand for a day and a night, so as to bring about the unique flavor of the lees by the secondary fermentation.

Hanging of the bad brine

After that, filtering with gauze, you get a clear amber-colored bad brine. Mix the brine with cold water in proportion, add seasonings and a few drops of white wine, and you have a variety of delicious pickled goods.

Bad Vegetarian Chicken

Shanghai people love bad food. In the alleyways of old Shanghai, the most common smell in the summer is the special flavor of the bad food, which is either light or strong, and seems to be like wine but not wine.

A cup of old wine, with a dish of bad gizzard, bad phoenix claw, pickled yellow fish, bad pork belly, bad vegetarian chicken, or even the simplest bad beans, is the most beautiful summer night.

The famous Old Man's Restaurant

When it comes to "bad food", Old Man's Restaurant is the best.

Founded in 1800, it has a history of more than two hundred years. Originally known as "Renhekan", it was founded by a few Shanghainese people. There is a saying in Mencius - Gongsun Chou: "Timing is not as good as location, and location is not as good as people", so the owners took the word "Renhe" and used it as the name of the restaurant.

The old man and the restaurant's most recommended "three bad".

Bad Chicken

Bad Chicken, a favorite among Shanghainese, is a dish of white chicken with yellow skin, tender meat, and blood in the bones, which is dipped in bad marinade, making it more and more appealing. A certain percentage of yellow wine is added to the bad wine, and the wine is also handmade, compared with bottled wine, the taste is different;

This is why the "bad chicken" here is very popular.

Bad Gate Cavity

The pig's tongue is sliced thinly, and the freshness and sweetness of the flavor is special; it's free of excess fat and refreshingly tasty, making it perfect for the summer months to quench the appetite.

Bad Mao Beans

Bad Mao Beans are the best dish for drinking, bar none. The beans are cooked on a high flame, not simmered, and then dipped directly into the bad marinade after removing from the flame, and then served a few hours later, still as green as if they were freshly picked.

While such a snack can be found everywhere and nothing special, but the old man and the bad beans here are refreshingly visible, scattered bursts of light fragrance of the bad, containing the shell "shagging shagging," the soup and inhaled into the mouth, that's a great.

Another dish called "Seafood Café" is a very special hot trough dish, a large plate of fish, shrimp, crab, shellfish, razor clams and other components.

Shanghai Tang various bad goods

Shao Wansheng's mud snail, the shell is as thin as a cicada's wing, snail meat transparent, like a grain of small amber. Once tasted, it is moist and soft, fragrant and crispy, rich and delicious, and the sweet snail meat is overflowing with the mellow fragrance of yellow wine, which is extremely fresh and crispy in flavor.

Dexing Hall's bad goods are also famous. The bad conch meat here, drunken wine lees, with chilled conch meat, just listening to is appetizing. At first glance, the brine is clear, the snail meat is large and fresh; entrance, the meat is firm and elastic teeth. Older diners often come in pairs, order a few snacks "to go".

Luyang_'s name comes from the ancient poem "Luyang City is Yangzhou", although famous for Huaiyang dim sum, but his family's bad goods is more y the old Shanghai people's heart. The chicken claws in bad sauce are made with old lees that have been boiled for years.

Wang Jia Sha's bad small yellowtail, bad snails, bad duck bladder, bad shunfeng, bad pig's trotters, bad phoenix claws and bad scallops are also popular small dishes among Shanghainese.

Scholar's House also has a hundred-year history, and is also a long-established Shanghai brand, with famous bad food.

When it comes to food, how can we possibly miss it? This Shanghai with too many stories, with too much history of the city, would have loved deep enough, but again and again by the food here to make people forget, waiting for the echo of one day.