At the beginning of the founding of Tsinghua, someone adapted the school song like this: "Shovel clank, jingle bells, all students, come to the canteen. Chicken, duck, fish, stew and stir-fry a plate, everyone lifts the chopsticks and the cups and plates are polished. Whoa, whoa, git comes from afar, whoa, git comes from afar, and the food is still open, because you have to grab it if you want to be full. You grab, I grab, because you have to grab if you want to be full. "

In the dining hall of Tsinghua in 1911, a table for eight people became a place to fight for eating speed and skills. The canteen is contracted to provide foreign businessmen with three meals a day. As soon as the dinner bell rings, students queuing at the door flock in and sit in the seats with their own student numbers. Some people just keep their heads down and eat desperately, while others will play some tricks: pretending to let the people at the same table tell a joke, while they are madly picking up food.

At the age of p>14, Liang Shiqiu went from the "medium-level" canteen to the "advanced-level" canteen and ate for eight years. During this period, he made a bet with his roommate for a competition, setting a record of eating twelve steamed buns and three bowls of Zhajiang Noodles at one meal. He described it in his novel "The Battle of the Chest": "Dang! Knock! The bell rings, and it's time for lunch. As soon as he reached Li Sheng's ear, he rushed out and went straight to the canteen, eating five bowls and bulging out. " It is a true portrayal of yourself. Liang Shiqiu had a rough life, but he was never vague on the issue of "eating", and his own situation was "a gluttonous person who manages the world and a useless person in troubled times". Wang Xuebin described him in the book "The Foundation of the Republic of China": "When you have money, you can do whatever you want, spend money like water, and work hard. When you are poor, you can find a new way and be ingenious. Spending a small amount of money can still make things on the plate lively and fragrant."

Liang Shiqiu is the best eater, but there are still people in Tsinghua who are not satisfied. Zhao Yuanren's wife, Yang Buwei, wrote in her autobiography: "There are two big kitchens in Tsinghua, which are always the same dishes, and my own cooks are not easy to use. After a few days, I feel tired ... I will discuss with several wives, why not invite some good cooks, and everyone agrees." On March 4th, 1927, Yang Buwei hired the chef of "Wufangzhai" to open a restaurant by the river opposite the South Yard in front of the gate of tsinghua campus. There is a small bridge on the river, so it was named "Xiaoqiao Food Club".

In Beiping, where the feudal atmosphere is still strong, many people don't agree with this practice of "Wen Jun being a servant", but Wang Dongming, Wang Guowei's eldest daughter, was very impressed by this past: "Xiaoqiao Restaurant serves most southern dishes, and I only remember one kind of baked wheat cake, which is crispy and crisp, much like the present crab shell yellow. Compared with Beijing's hard and tough sesame paste baked wheat cake, its flavor is completely different." Because Yang Buwei was so hospitable, the cost of the food company was higher than the income, and it was closed after a few months.

besides Yang Buwei, Ye Qisun, a professor of physics, is also a gourmet provider. After coming to Tsinghua in 1925, Ye Qisun has been living in No.7 North Park, Tsinghua, which used to be the residence of foreign professors. A worker is responsible for taking care of his life. According to Ye Qisun's nephew Ye Minghan, "This worker can cook, and several professors who are single or whose families are not in Beijing eat there." Professors take the opportunity of eating to discuss the educational reform of the school together, which is called "No.7 rice ball in Beiyuan". There are also academic celebrities such as Jin Yuelin and Ye Gongchao in this group, which is a model of "gluttony is not necessarily a real celebrity". Before 2116, Tsinghua canteens were numbered directly by numbers, from No.1 canteen to No.15 canteen. The well-known blogger "North Point Shan Yao" said: "The eggplant in No.5 canteen, No.7 canteen and the pasta in No.6 canteen seriously affected everyone's taste in food. Until today, you must put garlic when eating roasted eggplant. "

But then these numbered names gradually faded out of our sight: No.8 canteen was changed into a bowling alley, and now it is a quantum information center; Nine canteens were changed into laboratories of automobile department; The twelfth canteen was changed into a table tennis hall and a student employment center. Before 2116, the 1-2 canteen in Tsinghua was a staff canteen, and the 3-15 canteen was a student canteen. At present, the canteens in 3, 4, 5, 6 and 12 no longer exist, and the buildings in 8, 9 and 15 still exist, but they have been used for other purposes. The old canteens that are still open in the student area are: No.7 canteen (Qingfen Garden), No.11 canteen (Tingtao Garden), No.11 canteen (Wenxin Garden), No.13 canteen (Qingqing Fast Food) and No.14 canteen (Lilac Garden).

On the wall brick of Tingtao Garden, we can clearly see its evolution history: "It was completed in July, 1981, and was originally named as No.11 canteen, but it was renamed Tingtao Garden in February, 2116. ..... When the breeze is coming, teachers and students can listen to Lin Tao and sit and watch the water waves from a distance after dinner, which is far away. "

In p>2116, Dining Hall No.14 and Flavor Dining Hall were renamed as Lilac Garden and Qingfen Garden, respectively. After the demolition and merger of Dining Hall No.3, No.4, No.5 and No.6, Dining Square, Dining Hall No.11 and Taoyuan Restaurant were named after viewing, listening and smelling, and the east and west lines were respectively viewing the domain, listening to the waves and smelling the fragrance. All the new names have been carefully considered by the school. Wenxin Garden is derived from the stone carving "Fragrance, fragrance is heard far away" in Shuo Wen Jie Zi, and Qingfen Garden is taken from the stone carving "Qingfen is beautiful and Huaxia is glorious".

Before this, the staff canteen has been named Guiyuan, Yuyuan, Nanyuan and Beiyuan respectively. The names of several canteens in the north of the school have formed a pattern dominated by flowers and plants: bauhinia, clove, peach and plum, Zhilan and Yushu.

Teacher Wang Jianhua from the School of Journalism and Communication said: "Now many old Tsinghua alumni come back to find the No.7 canteen and ask the students on the road. Almost no one knows where it is, and the sense of history seems to be gone." There are not a few old alumni who feel this way. Guo Ning, a student of grade 2112 in department of engineering physics, said in the Everyone's Journal in 2119: "I miss the time when numbers were numbered. It was simple, catchy, easy to remember and had a sense of history. It's not that I can't remember the new name, but I really don't want to forget the old name. Can alumni who have graduated for decades come back and follow their names to find the place that originally carried so many memories? "

Today, most students in Tsinghua can't understand the deep nostalgia of the old alumni, but they will remember the long queue before the renovation of Qingfen Garden. In the spring semester of 2113, Qingfen stopped working. The new three-character class and four-character class students only knew about the "Southern District Student Dining Hall Reconstruction Project" surrounded by the intersection, but they didn't have a chance to meet those early mornings when they were waiting for steamed buns while reciting words.

But when enjoying delicious food, the name of the canteen is not important. What we remember are the pancakes of peaches and plums and the iron plates of bauhinia, the oily noodles of Tingtao and the hollow dried noodles of Yushu. Even though Lanyuan and Yuyuan are far away from the dormitory, Wu Ping, a 2112 undergraduate student in department of engineering physics, often goes there to relieve his craving. "The boiled fish and boiled meat in Lanyuan taste good, and the Shaanxi flavor in Yuyuan is very authentic. These two canteens have no subsidies, and they have no advantages in price and location, but they still eat occasionally." Liang Xiao, a 2113 undergraduate from Education Research Institute, entered Tsinghua as a graduate student. Her most direct impression of Tsinghua canteen is that there are many kinds of dining halls, and there are many choices. Peach, plum and bauhinia, the rising stars, are now important towns for students. "The reputation of the four floors of bauhinia has always been very good, and tomatoes, scrambled eggs, meat pieces and potatoes are all very good," she said. "Doing well is king, but in the end, what you eat is all feelings." Among the things that Tsinghua people is proud of, the "place of production: Tsinghua University campus" printed on soybean milk should be regarded as one.

Xinmin Road and Xuetang Road, which are busy during the day, are quiet at night, and the trucks driving into the campus have not disturbed the students' good dreams. The story of breakfast in the garden begins with the big truck that delivers the ingredients.

The original No.15 canteen is now a workshop for bean products and dairy products, where all the magical chemical reactions between soybeans and brine take place. At about one o'clock in the morning, the staff were fully armed in dark blue work clothes, hats, gloves and waterproof boots. The sweetest place in the garden at night is here. The thick bean flavor is mixed with slightly astringent halogen. After several processing and packaging procedures, it is processed into warm and mellow bottled soybean milk that we hold in our hands in the bean product filling room, and it has been sent to various canteens at 5 am.

In Tsinghua, the speed of food running on the production line is obviously faster than that in other places. Most food processing workshops adopt automatic production lines, and at the same time, the ingredients in each canteen are processed centrally to ensure the full supply of food.

It's almost summer, and the homemade ice cream with "Tsinghua Cold Drink" printed on the carton has been checked into the cafeteria freezer. Fresh milk, drinking water, white sugar, egg powder, edible vegetable oil ... simple food ingredients, but with the memory of Tsinghua people all summer. The ice cream workshop in Tsinghua canteen adopts stainless steel fully enclosed automatic production line, with a daily production capacity of 2 tons.

Compared with ice cream, girls who are afraid of obesity may prefer yogurt and sour plum soup. In 2114, sweet-scented osmanthus sour plum soup was newly introduced in the canteen, and the sales volume in peak season can reach 5,111 cups per day. When the heat was unbearable, a cup of sour plum soup was drunk, and the taste buds were kissed by sour plum. According to the statistics of the catering center in 2114, the sales of homemade sour plum soup and yogurt exceeded 71% of the total sales of all kinds of drinks in the canteen.

jiaozi, running happily on the assembly line. During the seasonal solar terms, jiaozi is often in short supply. In 2111, the jiaozi production line was established in the catering center. In the past, jiaozi in each canteen needed more than 61 employees to supply it, but now it can be basically completed with only 9 employees. During the winter solstice, students in the north always taste like home in jiaozi. At this moment, the warmest thing is to take a bite of jiaozi, a thin-skinned pork and scallion, and take out his mobile phone to ask his family in his hometown, "Put on more clothes when it's cool."

There are many sources of ingredients in Tsinghua canteen, so it is very possible for us to eat green food delivered from our hometown. In June, 2115, the Food Service Center set up the first green food procurement base in Changbai Mountain, mainly supplying auricularia, and then set up 12 bases in Qing 'an, Heilongjiang, Wulanchabu, Inner Mongolia, Mengyin, Shandong and Zhongning, Ningxia. The direct supply of raw materials such as meat, flour, eggs, potatoes, carrots, etc. has kept the prices of canteens in Tsinghua stable. In the Beijing News in 2117, there even appeared the headline "The price of vegetables in Peking University canteens rose, some students went to Tsinghua to eat".

"I remember the purple exercise in summer that night, and the small bridge with lights on and the moonlight were just right", the theme song "Laughing Youth" of Huixiao Tianxia sang. In April, when the food in each canteen teases the tip of the tongue, there are long queues in front of the small bridge under the night, and many bicycles are parked silently waiting for their owners. From squid and crab chops to quail eggs and tofu, they are sent into the mouth of the mouth from the "Zi Zi" iron plate, and the fragrance floats across the bridge and flows into the moonlight. Sometimes I get tired of the same "China's ninth largest cuisine" canteen dishes. Fortunately, new canteens or new dishes can always appease us in time.

"We passed after 4: 31 in the afternoon, got the number 1, and finally arrived!" Li Mingxi of the three-character class of the School of Life Sciences said. "yet we called and urged a thousand times before she started toward us" Zhilanyuan Hot Pot opened on April 3rd, and was favored by students. "On the first day of trial operation, we went around 5 pm, and the number was queued for more than half an hour." She recalled, "We went again last weekend night, there were too many people, and the road to eating food was bumpy!"

Li Mingxian and Qiu Shi, her boyfriend from the Department of Civil Engineering, are both lovers of food. In her words, "As two foodies, where there are new products, we will be there. We have basically eaten all the dishes on the second floor of Yushu." Taking stock of Yushu cuisine, she is a few treasures: "Red bean dumplings are recommended for supper, all kinds of porridge are good, and all kinds of pasta are soft and not bad. Glutinous rice chicken is spicy and oily, but the meat is good. The mushroom bag has a good shape. "

From the spicy pot to the old bowl of fish, from going to Qing Qing pizza to Yushu for supper, Li Mingxian said with a smile, "The canteen is our second matchmaker. Since we have been together, we can eat together as long as we eat, which can effectively improve the frequency of meeting. We accompanied each other to raise meat in the garden full of food. Love and food can't live up to it, and then we failed my weight. "

as early as 2111, the school intended to introduce fast food brands into the campus to meet the needs of teachers and students. However, in order to ensure the preferential price, the food center opened its own western-style fast food restaurant in Tsinghua in 2112, and named it Qingqing fast food restaurant after taking the word "Qing" from Tsinghua and the word "Qing" from young people. Since then, Qingqing Yonghe with reference to King Yonghe, Qingqing Pizza with reference to Pizza Hut, Qingqing Leisure Restaurant with reference to Xianlin, Zhilan Buffet, Qingqing Noodle Bar and Yushu-style fast food have also appeared on campus.

The activities of "Famous Chefs Entering Tsinghua" and "Chinese Snack and Food Festival" have left some reserved windows in the strong voice of students. In recent months, on the WeChat "Ai Shengquan" in WeChat official account, the new notices in the canteen have been one after another. Guo Ye, director of the life rights and interests department of the school student union, said: "It may have been reported less before, but the speed of providing new dishes in the school has really accelerated recently, and the canteen is very attentive."

"The communication channel with the school food center is very smooth. If you have any questions, you can directly report them to the teacher, and students will also communicate with the teacher about their needs for new dishes." Guo Ye said so. On the first reception day of school leaders this year, Shengquan put forward the proposal of "increasing the supply of fresh milk in canteens". When Tsinghua celebrated its 114th anniversary at the end of April, pure milk was already lying in the beverage window of the canteen. In the intersection of Tsinghua students and the canteen, there was another bag of warm milk. In Tsinghua, food is a talisman, which protects us from going to the ends of the earth. The smell of little sheep rolled in the shiny spicy hot pot; Crispy fried fresh milk bite open, can dessert be dessert; The delicious onion soup in the old crock can't be wrapped already … They wait for you in every corner of the canteen every day, waiting to meet and know you who love life.

judging the quality of a university from the quality of the canteen seems to be an absurd analysis, but you have to admit that when you look back at the university, there are always many memories related to the canteen. The voices of calling friends, the waiting team, make all the time feel. The food is changing, the location and name of the canteen are changing, the people passing by are changing, and the youth story that is inseparable from the canteen is staged in every student's time in Tsinghua people.