If you ask a citizen of Quzhou what is the most famous food in Quzhou, many people will tell you that it is "three heads and one palm" (rabbit head, duck head, fish head and duck palm). In Quzhou, "three heads and one palm" is an indispensable delicacy, whether it is a high-end hotel or a street stall. At the Zhejiang Agricultural Fair not long ago, Quzhou's "three heads and one palm" all sold well. It can be said that-

Local snacks's "flag"

In the past, the leftovers bought by ordinary people to satisfy their gluttony have now become a "flag" in local snacks, our province.

Every afternoon at 1: 30, Lu Shuixiang's small restaurant in Rende Road will be slightly deserted. At this time, all she has to do is to marinate the rabbit head, duck head and duck feet to be used at night and the next day. "It takes about 3 hours to marinate. These things are available in almost every hotel, and many guests come to' three heads and one palm'. " 12 14 in the afternoon, she told reporters while watching the marinating situation of duck head in stainless steel pot. As soon as the lid was opened, a strong smell of lo-mei came to the nose. "Do duck head, rabbit head pay attention to ingredients, which should use fennel, dried tangerine peel, pepper, cinnamon, yellow wine and other good accessories, fish head should be stewed with' soup stock' for a long time. The practice of fish head is a bit different, usually chopped pepper or braised. " Lu Shuixiang said.

The small restaurant in Lushui Town is called Daoxiang Food Stall, which has a history of 10 years. "Evening is the busiest time. When there are many, hundreds of duck heads will be sold a day. " Lv Shuixiang said that some guests even drove from Shanghai. During the Chinese New Year, people from Quzhou who work in other places and those who return home often crowded small restaurants.

Although the weather is a little cold, Lu Shuixiang still pickled these special snacks as usual, waiting for the arrival of guests. The mist from the stainless steel pot bypassed the signboard in front of the store and brought the fragrance to the street. "The soup stock I used here has been used for 10 years. Every time there is less soup, I add some yellow wine, but I haven't changed the formula. As long as I can attract customers, I will not change this special taste. " Lu Shuixiang said.

Quzhou has more than 7,000 catering units. Walking on the streets of Qucheng, you will see scenes similar to Lv Shuixiang's shop in many small restaurants and food stalls. There is a stove in front of the door, and there is a big iron pot on it. There are red peppers floating on the water. There are thick soup in the pot, including rabbit heads, duck heads, duck feet, etc., and waves of unique thick fragrance float in the street.

How did the little-known "three heads and one palm" come step by step and become famous all over the world? Its origin is actually not glamorous, but because people were living in poverty.

Since the 1950s, there has been a refrigeration plant specializing in killing rabbits in Shuangshuiqiao, Qucheng. Residents bought rabbit heads and burned them at a price of 30 cents a catty. After eating the rabbit's head, they dried the bones and sold them at 7 cents a catty. The money from selling bones went to buy rabbit heads to eat. As a result, the atmosphere of eating rabbit heads in Quzhou is flourishing. "'three heads and one palm' is a unique element and symbol in Quzhou. Quzhou people's habit of eating' three heads and one palm' was formed from then on. First, the rabbit's head was marinated, and later, there was a marinated product of duck's head and feet. " Mao Xianlong, deputy general manager of a cicada food company, said.

With the improvement of people's living standards, the number of food stalls and small restaurants in Qucheng street gradually increased in the 1980s and 1990s, and the "leftovers" originally bought by residents to cook at home began to become the main brands of supper.

Since the late 1990s, "three heads and one palm" have blossomed everywhere in Quzhou, and it has really "caught fire". On summer nights, the popularity of food stalls in Qucheng is always stronger than that of hotels and restaurants. Order some side dishes, have some rabbit heads and drink cold beer. Customers come to these places just to enjoy the hearty feeling brought by "three heads and one palm".

With more and more people in Quzhou, Quzhou's "three heads and one palm" was taken outside to take root and sprout. Coupled with the pressure of modern urbanites, there is a tendency to eat spicy food in the north and south of the Yangtze River, and "three heads and one palm" is also popular in large and small cities through this spicy wind. Especially in Shanghai, Hangzhou, Ningbo, Wenzhou and other places with many people in Quzhou, hotels with Quzhou signs abound. Walking on the streets of Hangzhou, if you are not careful, you will encounter a small restaurant opened by Quzhou people. The area is not large, but because of the supply of "three heads and one palm", it is often crowded with customers who come here.

There is neither the nobility of local cuisine nor the fashion of western-style catering, but Quzhou's "three heads and one palm" has its own world. Nowadays, "Quzhou Rabbit Head" has been on an equal footing with famous products such as "Jinhua Ham" and "Jiaxing Wufangzhai Zongzi" and has been listed as one of the "Top Ten Snacks in Zhejiang".

The ugly duckling becomes very beautiful.

On the basis of preserving the original flavor as much as possible, catering institutions and production enterprises in our city make innovative articles on "three heads and one palm".

Once upon a time, "three heads and one palm" was just an "ugly duckling" on the table of ordinary people. With the development of catering industry, Quzhou's "three heads and one palm" has not only made a new leap in internal quality, but also become more elegant. Snacks, which were originally difficult to be fastidious, have not only become the special dishes for entertaining guests, but also become the gifts that people can get when visiting relatives and friends.

The Oriental Hotel is frequented by many foreign guests who come to Quzhou. Mr. Zhang, the executive chef of the hotel, said: "In the Oriental Hotel,' three heads and one palm' is mainly ordered by foreign guests. In order to promote the special snacks in Quzhou, we combine the rabbit head, duck head and duck's paw in the' three heads and one palm' into a special dish called' Nankong Special Braised Three Products'. "

At the same time, some catering and food enterprises with vision and brand awareness began to make their own brands and develop packaging products.

Zhiyi was born in 1989, and began to burn "three heads and one palm" in the 1990s. In 2003, "three heads and one palm" vacuum packaging was introduced, which is convenient for customers to carry. Since 2008, "One Word Home" has established its own production base and started to produce "three heads and one palm" single product packaging, gift box packaging and other products. "Now, the output of" three heads and one palm "is about 15 tons per month, which is several times higher than that at the beginning. In addition to being sold all over the country, the products have also gone abroad and entered the markets of Japan, South Korea and Singapore. " Mao Xianlong said that the scale of the company is still expanding, from a single "three-headed and one-palm" product to a variety of halogen products. At this year's Zhejiang Agricultural Expo, Quzhou Yizhizhi Food Co., Ltd. held a special investment promotion one day before the opening, and the sales in two hours reached more than 3,000 yuan. It is only a few times to make up the goods, which shows the popularity of Quzhou's "three heads and one palm".

Starting from a food stall in Xinqiao Street, Zhang now has not only restaurants, but also packaged products that can enter the supermarket. "Last year, we registered a trademark and began to produce first-class foods such as rabbit head ducks. Now the products are sold in local supermarkets in Jinhua and Zhangzhou. " Zhang said to him.

The company that originally focused on chicken products solved the problem that fish heads were difficult to package. Last year, we began to combine "three heads and one palm" into a brand of "taking the head as the palm", and the specialty store can sell hundreds of gift boxes every week. "Our rabbit's head, duck's head and duck's paw have all continued the traditional marinating process in Quzhou, and 28 Chinese herbal medicines unique to the old gods have been added." Zheng Huiwen, manager of the standardization department of the company, said that "three heads and one palm" are generally sold in soup, and the company makes the packaged products closer to the taste in the production process. In the future, Bulao Shen plans to open specialty stores in major scenic spots in Quzhou, and gradually develop to other scenic spots.

Where is the way to "go out"?

Uneven quality and no unified brand identity are the bottlenecks for the further development of "three heads and one palm".

It is a good wish of Quzhou people that "three heads and one palm" can go to the whole country, but there are thousands of specialty snacks all over the country. In the face of fierce competitors, how should Quzhou's "three heads and one palm" break through?

At present, "three heads and one palm" is still popular in Zhejiang Province, and it is mainly cooked in small restaurants. Due to different hotel practices, there is no uniform logo. At the same time, this industry is also shoddy to some extent. Most of the raw materials of Quzhou rabbit head and duck head come from Shandong and other places, but the purchasing standards of hotels are different, which leads to differences in the freshness of raw materials. These are the bottlenecks for the further development of the "three heads and one palm" industry. It is understood that although the ingredients of rabbit head, duck head and duck's paw in each restaurant are similar, they are not consistent. There are more than a dozen exquisite dishes, only three or four of which are not very particular. Moreover, with the prevalence of eating "three heads and one palm" in various places, the unfamiliar duck heads and feet in Quzhou have also joined the ranks.

Not only the local people in Quzhou like to eat "three heads and one palm", but even foreigners in Hangzhou and other places also relish the "three heads and one palm" in Quzhou. Chu Yin Chun is a white-collar worker in a unit in Hangzhou. Although her hometown is Zhoushan, she especially likes to eat rabbit head and duck head in Quzhou. "I think Quzhou cuisine is very distinctive and spicy." Chu Yin Chun said that although there are many restaurants that cook Quzhou cuisine, most of them are small in scale and can't reach the grade, each with its own brand and no unified standard. "Like Shaxian snacks, although they are all small facades, the signs and color schemes used are the same. I think the' three heads and one palm' hotel can unify the facade first. "

"Without a unified logo and a unified storefront design, the impression of' three heads and one palm' is really a bit confusing." Industry insiders suggest that "three heads and one palm" can refer to the storefront design of Shaxian Snacks, Lanzhou Lamian Noodles and other restaurants to display Quzhou culture in a unified way. "People know from dozens of meters away that this is a restaurant selling Quzhou's' three heads and one palm'."

Some insiders also said that every hotel and enterprise should develop its own characteristics in order to start the brand of "three heads and one palm". Quzhou cuisine located in the west of Zhejiang has a fundamentally different flavor from that of some big cities. Quzhou's spicy food is different from Sichuan's spicy food and Hunan's spicy food, which is warm and soft. The rabbit's head, duck's head and duck's paw in Quzhou have thus formed a fresh, fragrant and mellow feature. "Quzhou's' three heads and one palm' is famous for its unique taste, and after years of development, the public taste has been formed, so don't change it easily." The executive chef of the Oriental Hotel said. "Because each chef uses different ingredients and cutting order, the' three heads and one palm' burned out has its own flavor. The formula of each enterprise is also different. Under the premise of ensuring similar quality and similar taste, it is also good for hotels and enterprises to try to make some innovations. "

Many people think that "three heads and one palm" belongs to Quzhou. Only when everyone is in Qixin can this industry develop healthily. "Whether it is a unified logo or developing its own characteristics, in short,' three heads and one palm' is the pride of Quzhou people, and everyone should cherish it. The food industry is a conscience project. Only when everyone pays attention to quality and has a long-term development vision can we make the industry of' three heads and one palm' bigger and better. " The insider said.

Economic Review: Learn from Shaxian people to be a brand.

No matter which city we go to, we can see Shaxian snacks. Its rich variety and unified store design left a deep impression on people. It is understood that more than 52,000 Shaxian people have opened more than 1.8 million stores in major cities across the country, which has become a major channel to solve the employment problem of Shaxian people.

How do Shaxian people make local snacks bloom everywhere? Many people think that Shaxian snack is a chain restaurant, but in fact, the brand of Shaxian snack is applied by Shaxian government, which can be used by everyone in the county, and each store is independent. 1997, Shaxian government took the lead in establishing Shaxian snack industry association and registered the graphic trademark of Shaxian snack service. 1999 Shaxian snack industry development service center was established to hold training courses with different skills and training contents, such as snack making, chain management knowledge and practical operation, so as to strengthen brand awareness from the aspects of business philosophy and health management. After training and assessment, employees can obtain the standard license and trademark plaque of Shaxian snack vendors. Shaxian snack enjoys a worldwide reputation with the model of "government guidance+unified brand+independent management".

At the same time, Shaxian also held the China Snack Tourism Culture Festival and founded Shaxian Snack Network, which not only publicized Shaxian snacks, but also publicized Shaxian's development achievements and tourism industry.

Shaxian's experience is worth learning from enterprises in Quzhou, which manage "three heads and one palm". Developing Quzhou's "three heads and one palm" industry can not only promote Quzhou snacks, but also be a good way to solve Quzhou people's employment.

The author believes that the establishment of "three heads and one palm" industry association can play a role in this regard. For example, through industry associations, the "three heads and one palm" procurement and production standards are formulated and training is carried out so that customers in any city can taste the authentic Quzhou flavor; Another example is to design a logo that can be used by Quzhou catering institutions and production enterprises for free, so that the impression of "three heads and one palm" is more unified and strong; Then, trade associations can coordinate trademark disputes. Before, unpleasant things happened in Quzhou's "three heads and one palm" industry because of trademark problems, and similar things can be solved through industry associations.

The strength of an industry is always greater than that of an enterprise. I hope that in the near future, "three heads and one palm" operators will no longer "fight alone"