made steamed buns one by one into which, and then poured heavy oil, splashed with some water, covered with a wooden lid. A short while, the master from time to time to rotate the pan, about 10 minutes or so, the master uncovered the pot, then sprinkle a handful of chopped green onions, and sprinkle
sesame seeds, cover the heavy wooden pot for a minute or two, start the pot, a fragrance will come to the nose. Customers buy a few two (also said a few guests), bite a mouthful, suddenly full of fragrance, its flavor is strong, delicious. This is the traditional sense of
Shanghai raw fried buns, it is the general public like to eat a flavor of snacks.
The birthplace of steamed buns is actually in Suzhou, where the Wuyuan Teahouse, which opened in 1911, is best known for its steamed buns, which are popular in the Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghai areas. In the 1920s, the raw fried buns into the big dock in Shanghai, due to the economy, by the public sought after, so the general public only know "Shanghai raw fried buns", not many people know its past life. The history of steamed buns in Shanghai has been many years, and it is constantly evolving and giving birth to different genres.
When it comes to steamed buns, it is important to mention Huang Chujiu. Huang Chujiu ancestor for the medical family, the man early years that is the development of Shanghai, with a sharp mind, excellent communication skills, so that he was in the ten miles of ocean as a fish out of water, however, also fell into a slippery
head of the businessman's name.
He first developed in medicine, and later dabbled in the entertainment industry, and in those years, Shanghai's New World and Great World were his properties. He opened the Sino-French Pharmacy and the Five Continents Pharmacy, both of which were famous. Among them, only he pushed
The "Ai Luo brain juice" a product is popular for a while, he spared no expense in the newspaper, outdoor advertising, good use of part of the national pandering to foreign psychology, the market is very big. Later, there is a "Ballantine's machine" out of the cage, making him
day into the money, making a lot of money.
Huang Chujiu understands the importance of information in the business world, as early as the 1920s, he opened in the city center of Zhejiang Road, Luo Chunge teahouse. This is an important position for him to collect business intelligence, but also a place to exchange information, in the teahouse can smell the business opportunities, you can meet more business partners.
In the early 1900s, the teahouse in Shanghai is only tea, the city center of the three major teahouses such as Luo Chunge, Risheng House, a pot of spring, etc., without exception. Tea guests in the teahouse only tea and nothing else, which makes the teahouse can not be long
Retain guests, because the tea guests will be hungry and go. According to legend, one day Huang Chujiu from Edoya Road (Yan'an Middle Road) "contentment Lodge" home to go out in their own cars, passing through the four roads (Fuzhou Road), to see a lane mouth of the raw
Steamed buns stalls, as in the past, business is booming, and urgently ordered the driver to stop, he got off the bus to buy a few tasted fresh, and the feeling is more than elsewhere, raw steamed buns tasty! The first time I saw this, I had to go back to the office. He had an idea: if the fried buns are also introduced into the Luo Chunge Teahouse, so
The tea guests must be satisfied. But where to find a master who can make such delicious steamed buns? Later, Huang Chujiu found that the lane mouth of the steamed buns stalls suddenly closed down, thought, opportunity, so let the fellows to inquire about it. Learned
The reason for the closure of the business, is that the small boss smacked the master stuffing to do too much, add too much meat jelly (meat jelly dissolves into fresh juice when hot, so delicious), so the cost is too big to earn money, stopped the master business. Huang Chujiu heard, Ma
On the original small boss to higher than the price of the steamed buns master to Luo Chunge to go, in the teahouse store now do now pan-fried steamed buns now sold. Huang Chujiu knows the way of business, first to earn popularity, loss of money is also not hesitate. He asked the master to do
steamed buns with more filling, more meat jelly. So, a time Luo spring pavilion of tea guests, all said Luo spring pavilion steamed buns delicious. This move, not only retained the original tea customers, but also attracted a large number of new customers rushed to the raw fried steamed buns.
Yes, Luo Chunge raw pan-fried buns became the old Shanghai raw pan-fried buns of the first brand. Over time, tea drinkers mention Luo Chunge, the first is the raw fried buns, tea is in the back. Another theory is that Wang Chujiu in Zhejiang Road, Luo Chunge
The tea house next door to the alley has a raw fried buns stall, because the flavor is good, business is very good, Luo Chunge tea customers are also the main customer base. When the people talk about the pan-fried buns here, they will say "Luo Chunge pan-fried buns". So, Huang Chujiu simply took this
stall under his wing. Thus, Luo Chunge ushered in a boom in business with the help of raw fried buns. By analogy, the title of the founder of the Rochon Court steamed buns, should be counted on Huang Chujiu. The above two statements are different, but the steamed buns
head master is one, is Jiangsu Danyang people Tang. Huang Chujiu in the late 1920s due to business speculation loss, coupled with the sea wenjin Jinrong, Du Yuesheng pincer attack, Huang Chujiu began to go downhill, and in 1931
year depressed and died. Eventually, Luo Chun Court was Tang's pocket, business is getting better and better, in 1932, Tang's nephew Tang Miaoquan in Sichuan Road, Hankou Road opened a "big pot spring steamed bread store", business is also very prosperous.
Shanghai people of all sizes know that they should eat "Luo Chunge" and "Dapu Chun" when eating shengjian.
Whether it is Luo Chunge or Dapu Chun, these two steamed buns are from the Tang family in Danyang, these two recipes are of course secret
Not to show people, but in the specific form can still be recognized one or two, and the formation of Shanghai steamed buns of the two major factions, that is, the "mixed water fried buns" and "clear water fried buns" and "clear water fried buns". The "clear water fried buns". Mixed-water pan-fried buns are now more popular, with "Luo Chunge Pan-fried Buns"
as a representative, and now Shanghai's well-known "Fung Yu Pan-fried Buns" and "Xiao Yang Pan-fried Buns" also belong to this category. In terms of flour and filling, semi-fermented noodles are used, and meat jelly is put inside the filling to
pursuing soup, and the folds of the buns are facing down. Qing Shui Shengjian, on the other hand, does not add meat jelly to the filling, and is best known for the long-established "Dahu Chun", which was founded in 1932. Dahu Chun uses fully-fermented noodles and no meat jelly in the filling, which is less juicy
and the buns are made with the folds facing up.
Tang Miaoquan, the owner, determined that: since the steamed buns are steamed buns, they should look like a steamed bun; the outer skin should have a certain degree of elasticity and texture; the meat filling must be tight and solid; in addition, because of the thick outer skin may cause a poor taste, Dahu Chun in the fermented noodles work, so that it is fluffy and not lose the bite.
Both Luo Chunge and Dapu Chun, specializing in the production of "curry beef soup" for diners to use "over" steamed buns. These, the real old Shanghai know. Because the raw fried buns are one of the most common breakfast eaten by Shanghainese, so such as Qiao Jiajie restaurant, Wang Jia Sha, Wu Yuan Bakery and other old Shanghai restaurant are sold such snacks.
According to the evidence, the store sign of Dahu Chun Steamed Buns is not "Dahu Chun", but "Dai Kui Chun" (as evidenced by the photo). Zhang Xiaodong's book "Yang Jing Bang: Shanghai Past" has: "'Dapu Chun' original name is actually not 'Dapu
chun' but 'Daikou Chun'". It is not 'Dapu Chun' but 'Daikui Chun'." However, Shanghai people often pronounce the word "壸" as "壶", so they made a mistake and simply called it "Dapu Chun". Its old address was next to the No. 26 trolleybus terminal (Hai
Guan), which no longer exists. Incidentally, there is a story about Zhang Zhidong's refusal to accept a "tin teapot", which is also related to a "pot". Wang Qing with a thick gift, specially to visit Zhang Zhidong, want to seek a post. Wang Qing looks
Looks like a scholarly university professor, it is said to turn around and Zhang Zhidong also have a little bit of kinship. Zhang Zhidong is pouring tea from the tin teapot, suddenly saw the gift, then rebuked: "those things I do not need, or first let me test your learning
knowledge." When Wang Qing handed over his own materials, Zhang Zhidong looked at the distorted handwriting and lack of literary style, looking at the tin teapot on the case, an idea, and then wrote in block letters on the "Xutuan Quarters" three words and said: "Can you recognize these three
words?" Wang said, "Mr. Zhang, please don't make fun of me. How can I not recognize the three words 'tin teapot'?" Zhang Zhidong said: "You carefully recognize once again, did not read it wrong?" Wang Qing said: "Tin teapot I often use, still
wrong?" Zhang Zhidong waved his hand: "Send the guest!" The next day, Zhang Zhidong following Wang Qing, the alternate governor repatriated to his hometown, and wrote these words in the text: "I book for the Xutuan Quarters
(yang,tu,kun), you pronounced as a tin teapot. Each of the three characters has only one small stroke, and the sound and meaning of the three characters are easily mistaken. Let you face another ten years wall, from now on do not read tin teapot." It can be seen that the word "壸 "is to be misread without paying attention
.
After the change of power on the mainland, Luo Chunge, Dapu Chun continued to operate, the name was changed in the "Cultural Revolution", "Cultural Revolution" after the restoration of the original name. "During the Cultural Revolution, the owner of Lo Chun Court, who lived near Lo Chun Court on Zhejiang Road and in a house in a lane on Tianjin
Road, was criticized for "cruelly" exploiting his workers. In fact, he is also by hard work and shrewdness to get rich. In the 1980s, the rise of the market economy, Luo Chunge, Dapu Chun, these collective enterprises
also withstood the test of the market economy, in addition to the Dapu Chun in the West Ninghai Road has a storefront business, Luo Chunge has disappeared.
Since the reform and opening up, in the 1980s, Shaanxi North Road, there was a "Youlian" fried
buns renowned Shanghai, and then the municipal relocation, "Youlian" moved to Jiangning Road, Haiphong Road. Later, there was the rise of "Xiao Yang Shengjian". "Small Yang Shengjian" female boss called Yang Lipeng, is back to Shanghai children of intellectuals, with a keen sense of business
She opened in 1994 in Wujiang Road "small Yang Shengjian", and later continued to expand, and now there are nearly a hundred stores in Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghai. There is also a good selection of "Fung Yu", which have semi-fermented noodles with the folds facing down. In addition to the above
Face a few locals opened the shengjian store, at present, Shanghai, most of the shengjian steamed buns sold by outsiders in the operation, these stores shengjian both sea style shengjian, but also absorbed the local food culture. It can be said that a hundred barges
compete for the flow, each leading the way. However, probably based on operational convenience, some stores even use dead flour in the handling of flour. This kind of unfermented noodles made of raw fried buns, because the skin is thin, the filling entity should be large, otherwise deflated
not shaped, so that the taste of raw fried made always slightly inferior, because it is not to eat steamed buns, but in the eating stuffing, eating meatballs. The ratio of skin to filling is out of balance, and the taste is definitely uncomfortable.
Some foreign
diners ask why Shanghainese call it "steamed buns" when it is clearly "raw fried buns". In fact, this is the dialect. In the Shanghai dialect, there is no "bun" said. Shanghai dialect will be the northern language "buns" called
"× × steamed buns", such as "vegetable steamed buns" "meat steamed buns ". In Shanghainese, there are monosyllabic words for "bun", such as "fresh meat bun", "vegetable meat bun" and "soup bun". Shanghai dialect also calls "steamed buns", which do not contain fillings, "steamed buns"
heads", while old-school Shanghainese would call them "bread". This is a linguistic question, so I won't delve into it.
Shanghai people's delicacy has also attracted the attention of foreigners. Forbes magazine named the world's most exciting and unique "must-eat" foods, and Shanghai's pan-fried buns were on the list. From a historical and cultural point of view, Shanghai pan-fried buns are a refractive reflection of Shanghai's modern economic development and part of the sea culture. Shanghai people can not leave the raw fried buns, it is part of the life of the people.