until now, some people still think that Yangzhou fried rice is egg fried rice. In fact, today's many kinds of Yangzhou fried rice really developed from egg fried rice. Until now, egg fried rice is still synonymous with Yangzhou fried rice to some extent, especially abroad.
fried rice with eggs is not only loved by ordinary people, but also added a bit of legend to the historical records and legends of "getting married" with the royal family. According to the Book of Food Classic written by Sui Metabolic Irony, Yang Su, Duke of Yue in Sui Dynasty, loved to eat "broken golden rice", that is, fried rice with eggs. It is said that this "broken golden rice" is made of cooked rice with moderate hardness and loose particles, which is fried with eggs, so that the granular rice is wrapped in egg liquid, and the fried rice flashes like broken gold, hence the name, commonly known as "gold wrapped in silver". When Emperor Yangdi toured Yangzhou, he introduced "broken golden rice" into Yangzhou, which became the earliest record about Yangzhou fried rice.
Formula 1: Egg+Rice
The earliest historical record of fried rice with eggs can be found in the bamboo slips unearthed from Mawangdui Han Tomb in Changsha, Hunan Province in 1972. This may be the ancestor of fried rice with eggs.
Yangzhou fried rice originated in Caigenxiang Hotel on National Day Road in the city, with a history of more than 1 years. Li Kuinian and Li Shaoqing were the founders of Caigenxiang. From the description of Li Xiulin, we know that fried rice with eggs is actually a delicacy of working people. In the past, the rural areas were poor, and they could only drink porridge for three meals at ordinary times, and they could only eat dry rice when they were busy with farming. Cooking dry rice at that time was different from now: a few spoonfuls of "Jiangtou rice" were taken from the boiled porridge and put in a casserole, and then cooked in the afterfire of the pot. The rice made in this way was called "scooping rice". When guests came to the house, due to economic constraints, the owner who was careful and didn't want to be rude took aim at the eggs. Beat out the "scoop rice", blow dry the steam, stir-fry some eggs and rice, and then make a fairy soup, which is a good treat with your own side dishes made of dried radish and pickles.
At the beginning, the customers of "Caigenxiang" were laborers such as rickshaw pullers and canal boatmen, and the hotel was positioned as a convenience fast food restaurant, operating at a low profit to meet the dining needs of low-level residents. According to Li Xiulin's memory, in times of difficulty, the store often borrowed vegetables and meat from vegetable shops and butcher shops in the morning, and then sold them before returning the money. Because of its good reputation, it won the support of vegetable and butcher shop owners, so that the root fragrance of vegetables was supported and developed step by step.
Formula 2: Egg+Rice+Shrimp, Shredded pork and Barbecued pork
How Yangzhou fried rice spread from Yangzhou, I have to mention one person, that is, Yi Bingshou, the magistrate of Yangzhou.
Yi Bingshou, a native of Tingzhou, Fujian Province, was the magistrate of Yangzhou in 54 years. This man has a good political voice. He is not only proficient in poetry and calligraphy, but also a gourmet. It is widely said that he invented the "Yifu noodles" and "Yangzhou fried rice" which are now circulating in Guangdong and Hong Kong. The instant noodles we eat today are developed on the basis of the Iraqi government noodles. Yi Bingshou is also known as one of the pioneers of convenience food.
Mr. Ling Yunchao, a famous calligrapher in Hong Kong, said in his book "Three Thousand Years of Calligraphy in China": "Jiangsu-style fried rice and fried rice with scallion oil are the icing on the cake, and some shrimps and barbecued pork are fried together, so they can taste more delicious than ever. This taste is called' Yangzhou fried rice' by people in South China." After Yi Bingshou returned to his hometown, he also brought this method back to his hometown of Fujian, and specially introduced the cooking method of Yangzhou fried rice in his book "Liu Chun Cao Tang Ji". At this time, "Yangzhou fried rice" is not only a Yang style, but also a delicacy in the Cantonese menu. It is Yi Bingshou's innovation and dissemination that has given rise to the colorful face of today's "Yangzhou fried rice".
The chefs of Caigenxiang Hotel learn from the folk method of fried rice with eggs, add various ingredients to the rice and give it different names, and gradually have single fried "crystal fried rice", "fried rice with shrimps" and "fried rice with shredded pork" and so on. But at this time, there is often only one ingredient for fried rice.
Formula 3: egg+rice +8 ingredients
In the process of forming Yangzhou fried rice formula, we can't forget these names: Dai Lizhi, Wang Lixi, Xie Lanfu, Ding Wanguo, etc. They are all famous chefs of Huaiyang cuisine, and the formation of Yangzhou fried rice formula is directly related to them. Wang Lixi, the person in charge of the store, told reporters about such a history in Jiuru, an alley beside the National Day.
around p>1947, caigenxiang reached the peak of its business, and the varieties of fried rice with eggs also increased. Not only because of the emphasis on pouring rice or eggs first, there is a distinction between gold wrapped in silver and silver wrapped in gold; And mixed fried rice appeared. A medium bowl of rice, with two or three eggs and chicken soup, was moderately priced and belonged to the economical box lunch at that time. Fried rice with eggs is 3 cents, fried rice with shredded pork is 5 cents, and fried rice with assorted vegetables is 78 cents. At this time, the formula of mixed fried rice is basically similar to today.
According to Wang Lixi, the recipe of Yangzhou fried rice was basically formed before liberation. The chef took it from the chopping board and added it to the rice to stir-fry, which inadvertently made Yangzhou fried rice a delicious food. At that time, the ingredients of the vegetable root fragrant mixed fried rice still had its own emphasis-Shanghai Meilin green beans were used blindly for green beans.
Formula 4: Assorted fried rice formula+Qionghua
The quick-frozen Yangzhou fried rice was rolled off the production line in Shanghai, which made many Yangzhou people shine with the addition of "Qionghua petals". Qionghua is the city flower of Yangzhou. Adding "Qionghua Petals" not only plays a role in seasoning, but also adds a bit of charm to Yangzhou fried rice.
Yangzhou cuisine is exquisite, but Yangzhou fried rice really belongs to the public. Yangzhou fried rice belongs to the folk, comes from the dining table of ordinary people in Yangzhou, and comes from Yangzhou citizens' exquisite and consciousness of food. Its exquisiteness is the exquisiteness that the public can achieve, and it will inevitably become something that can be circulated for a long time.
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