The spirit of eating noodles in Suzhou is exquisite at best and melodramatic at worst. So today, let's take a look at how much money this bowl of Su-style noodle soup can have. Melodramatic? .
Once upon a time, since the Southern Song Dynasty.
Located in the land of fish and rice in the south of the Yangtze River, rice is indispensable for every meal. But Suzhou people especially like noodles. If they don't eat them for a few days, they will feel uncomfortable all over.
It's hard to count how many noodle restaurants there are in Suzhou. They are like convenience store chains in every city, and the streets are everywhere.
In order to eat a bowl of delicious noodles, Suzhou people waste a lot of time and gasoline. Many people have to drive far away to eat a bowl of noodles. ?
Whether it's a century-old brand or a fly shop on the corner, you can always see someone sitting in danger, with a square table, a bench and a bowl of steaming noodles in front of them.
The history of Suzhou people eating noodles can be traced back to the Southern Song Dynasty.
With the invasion of nomadic people, the royal family traveled south, and many northerners, married and had children, came to Jiangnan, bringing not only a lot of wealth and population, but also the fusion and change of dietary tastes.
Pingjiang Building in the Southern Song Dynasty. The blue part in the picture is the ancient city of Suzhou.
Except? Noodles in the north and rice in the south? In Mengqian Bitan, I once introduced the important difference between the north and the south at that time: taking the Yangtze River as the boundary, southerners like salty food, while northerners prefer sweet food.
Of course, there are also economic reasons behind this, because the Central Plains was obviously more developed at that time, and there were naturally more people who could afford sugar.
So if you have friends around you who complain that Suzhou food and Suzhou noodles are too sweet, please be sure to tell them, what is this mouth? Marijuana? It was originally shipped from the north.
Only Suzhou cherishes chicken head rice the most, and the fish miss the moon.
Since then, Suzhou people have added a bowl of noodles to their dining tables. However, Suzhou people rarely call it that, but they usually call it directly? Noodles? .
When in Rome, do as the Romans do, and the noodles soon sublimated in Suzhou.
During the Southern Song Dynasty, Kunshan was famous all over the world. Medicine chess face? ,? As thin as paper, it can be fed from a distance. Thin and easy to store and carry, this is the ancestor of dried noodles.
Time passed, and a bowl of Su-style noodle soup finally came out.
Soup, the soul of Su-style eternal noodles
Generally speaking, this bowl of noodles consists of soup, noodles and toppings. Can you add a more elegant one? Halogen/dew? .
However, the soul of a bowl of Su-style noodle soup can only be its soup. Good soup tastes euphemistic and long, and it is delicious beyond words. If it is a little salty, it will make people thirsty. Without it, it will be weak, and it will inevitably be tasteless.
Therefore, the most important job of any Suzhou noodle restaurant is to hang soup.
Thanks to the media in recent years, many people know that there is always a bowl of Su-style noodle soup for meat bones, eel bones, shrimp shells, fish heads and snails.
But these are just ordinary ingredients, each noodle restaurant will have its own unique secret recipe, and some will add soybeans to make the soup more milky; Some will put a little wine to make the aftertaste more mellow.
For example, the famous Aozao noodles in Kunshan are delicious only if you put the fish in the water.
Diners who eat noodles at Haisheng Kunshan Ao Breakfast Restaurant.
But these are just efforts to save face. The same ingredients have different origins, varieties and parts, and the final taste is all the same? A drop in the ocean is a thousand miles away? .
Like shrimp, it must be fresh Taihu shrimp, and it must be attached to the shrimp brain in order to fly.
The face is so meticulous, not to mention the formalities of hanging soup and pyrotechnics. These are all kung fu in the bones, and the real secret is not passed down.
The rules of hanging soup are so complicated, and the melodramatic thing has just begun.
A bowl of qualified Soviet-style noodle soup, its soup must be crystal clear, not muddy or greasy. This is also the kung fu of hanging soup. Cook a pot of soup until the end, without adding water in the middle, and keep the soup boiling all the time. Never? Palace? .
It is said that some noodle restaurants even cook this pot of soup around the clock, which is quite similar to the legendary old soup. This is because braised pork was used when hanging soup. Once the fire is turned off, a lot of fat will precipitate, and this pot of soup will be wasted.
Red soup and white soup
Su-style noodle soup has two systems: dividend soup and white soup, but the color is actually richer. For example, white soup darkens with the seasons.
White soup in summer is the lightest, clear and refreshing. But it's not really white, it will add a little light soy sauce, with a little goose yellow in the clarity.
For example, in recent years, the noodles in Maple Leaf Town, which were ignited by China on the tip of the tongue, are the classic models of white soup, with a bouquet of wine in the salty and sweet, and a piece of fat braised pork, so many troubles have been forgotten.
Look how delicious Su Daqiang eats.
Red soup is naturally added with soy sauce, but the soul has to be the soup after braised fish and eel. Red soup on the stove surface is a must, and a piece of fried fish with crispy outside and tender inside is the satisfaction of the day.
Don't worry, I haven't finished my soup yet. What if this last finishing touch is missing? Juice? It's not a Soviet noodle soup.
Juice? It's the marinade left at the bottom of the pot after the meat is cooked for a few hours. It's delicious.
Scoop a teaspoon in the bowl first, and then pour it into the soup hanging in the cauldron. People with awkward mouths can taste clear, fragrant, thick and fresh in one bite. This soup is complete and the soul of Suzhou.
Top, how many people love you?
The best thing about a bowl of Su-style noodle soup is the topping, which is dazzling.
From Yangchun noodles without topping to common braised pork, fried fish, shredded pork, assorted noodles, vegetarian noodles, and expensive and luxurious three shrimp noodles.
A bowl of three shrimp noodles costs several hundred yuan at a time.
There are a lot of toppings in Su-style noodle soup. A few years ago, it broke the world record with the toppings of 5 18. Some shops even launched a bowl of Australian lobster noodles with thousands of dollars, which can be used as toppings for anything.
Toppings can be divided into two types according to the practice, prepared in advance and fried and burned now. Some friends must be thinking, you must eat the food that has just been cooked. Who has eaten for a long time?
It's just that I don't know much about toppings, such as braised pork and fried fish This topping must be done overnight and sold early the next morning, otherwise it will be too late to do it. If you really want to eat now, I'm afraid you'll have to sit in the noodle restaurant all day.
There are too many toppings in Suzhou noodle restaurant, all over the table.
Moreover, the most suitable cold topping for braised pork is to soak in the bottom of the bowl first and absorb enough soup, which is the most enjoyable way to eat.
But now some toppings must be fried, such as fried eel, shrimp and fried kidney flower. It's delicious when it's just out of the pot, but it's not good enough to cool it a little.
Crab noodles, such toppings are really heroic.
There is a special delicacy in the freshly fried topping that belongs only to Changshu. Yushan mushroom oil noodles are not as famous as Aozao noodles, but they are the local people's favorite hometown flavor.
Among the wild edible fungi in Yushan, Tricholoma matsutake is the best, which is known as? The vegetarian king? , too? Mushroom noodles? The best ingredients.