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The first course in the world
From the Qing Dynasty to the Qianlong period, the political power was stable, the society was stable, the economy was prosperous, and the country was prosperous and the people were safe, so it was called the "prosperous time". After long-term stability, Qianlong began to visit Jiangnan six times. Gan Long likes southern food very much. On the way to the southern tour, those local senior officials, such as the governor, the governor, Zhizao, etc., as well as wealthy businessmen, all took over the driving ceremoniously, and all of them cooked delicious food, invited pets for glory, and won the favor of the emperor. In order to curry favor with local officials, this is actually equivalent to reviewing the cooking career in Jiangnan, thus promoting the development of Jiangsu and Zhejiang cuisine and creating many famous dishes. Almost all the famous Yangli dishes were shaped at this time.

In the archives of the Imperial Tea Dining Room in the Palace Museum, there is a book "Jiangnan Festival as usual", which records the routes, palaces and dining lists that Ganlong has traveled during his 30-year southern tour. Among a large number of "dragon and phoenix dishes", local dishes presented by dignitaries are particularly eye-catching. For example, on February 15, Yin Jishan, governor of Chongjiawan Daying Wharf, brought shredded pork, smoked vegetables with wild bamboo shoots, pickles, fried gluten and ham. On the 27th day of the first month, I went to the Swallow Temple and entered the palace. The manager cooked wild duck balls and stewed tofu.

When Gan Long visited the south of the Yangtze River for the third time, he ate thick juice cooked with shrimp and cooked shredded chicken and chicken soup in a snack bar in Wuxi. He was very interested and praised: "This dish is the best in the world." Since then, this dish has been worth a hundred times and is called "the first dish in the world".

"Clearing Money" records that Gan Long was a vegetarian when he was on a tour to the south: Gan Long once went to Tianning Temple in Yangzhou to host and invited him to eat vegetarian dishes. Gan Long was very satisfied and said to the monk, "Vegetables are so delicious that they are ten million times more delicious than those deer breasts and bear paws!" According to another record, there was a monk named Siwen in an ancient temple in Yangzhou, who was good at cooking all kinds of tofu dishes, especially the tofu soup made of tender tofu, day lily, fungus and other raw materials, which was delicious and praised by Qianlong. "Si Wen Tofu" was once included in the palace menu.

Gan Long came to Yongfeng Town, and someone presented homemade incense. At first glance, it is palm-sized and fragrant. It can be cut into silk as thin as cicada, rolled into rolls, folded into paper and sent to the mouth. Salty, spicy, fragrant, sweet and fresh. Gan Long was full of praise and told him to bring more back to Beijing. Since then, "Yongfeng Five Flavors of Hunan and Jiangxi" has not only become a table delicacy and a gift treasure for ordinary people's homes, but also a tribute.

The Grand View of unofficial history in Qing Dynasty describes a Suzhou man named Zhang Dongguan, who used to be the official chef of Suzhou Zhizao House. Once, when Qianlong made a southern tour, he ate his fried chicken with winter bamboo shoots and was full of praise. He was rewarded with a silver shovel on the spot, and later he was taken into the palace as a chef, honoring nine families.

The fame of Yangzhou dried silk, a famous dish in Yangzhou, is also said to be related to Qianlong's southern tour. At that time, Yangzhou officials and salt merchants hired many famous chefs to prepare for the "reception ceremony", competing for novelty and beauty, and all wanted to introduce delicious food that overwhelmed the public. Among them, there is a kind of "nine-silk soup", which uses nine kinds of delicacies, such as dried bean curd, ham and chicken, to cut into filaments and then simmer in chicken soup, so that all kinds of umami are sucked into dried bean curd. Gan Long used two dishes and praised them. He came to Yangzhou to order this dish on several southern tours. Since then, "Jiu Si Soup" has been renamed as "Yangzhou Dried Silk", which is famous all over the country.