When will Juzhen Garden, a century-old shop, stop being silent?
Cinuo Imperial Chef used to cook in Juzhen Garden, a century-old shop with a glorious history of enjoying a good reputation throughout the country.
Juzhenyuan is a century-old shop located in Jingzhou city, which has passed 105.
This Manchu-style restaurant was founded by a vendor named Guan Hanhai in Guangxu period of Qing Dynasty. It was first located in Huguo Temple at Gonganmen and later moved to Nanmen Street. /kloc-moved to the present site in 0/960, and famous calligraphers Wang Xiaju, Essien Joro Pu Jie and Cao Lian successively wrote inscriptions for the building "Liaoshen has no taste, Jingchu has no taste".
Speaking of Guan Hanhai, the founder of Juzhen Garden, he is a vendor who deals in "glutinous rice lotus root", "fried lotus root yuan" and various steamed vegetables, stewed vegetables and cakes. In the 27th year of Guangxu reign in Qing Dynasty (1902), he and his younger brother Guan Quanhai, who used to be a chef in Jingzhou Prefecture, opened a restaurant called Juzhenge in Gongan Gate, mainly dealing in Manchu-Han court dishes and local delicacies.
At that time, Dai Xiao, the chef of Juzhen Pavilion, was the chef of the Qing Palace. His eight-treasure rice is very popular with Queen Cino. Because of Eight-Nation Alliance's invasion of Beijing, Queen Cino fled the capital, and Master Xiao also fled to Jingzhou with this rice formula, and was hired by Juzheng Museum.
Dai Xiao, the chef, is a superb cook, and most of the dishes she cooked are modeled after the cooking methods of the court, which are delicious in color, smell and taste, attracting many diners. "Juzhen Pavilion" was renamed as "Juzhen Garden", and its reputation is getting bigger and bigger.
After the Revolution of 1911, the former Qing Dynasty's observation of Jingnan Road made Wei Xiangxi go south through Jingzhou. After tasting the special dishes such as "Eight-treasure Rice" in Juzhen Garden, he sent a pair of couplets with endless aftertaste, "Unique in Liaoshen, Every Garden in Jiangling". After more than half a century's painstaking efforts of three generations, the store has become a leading boutique in the ancient city.
In the 1950s, after the public-private partnership of Juzhen Garden, Guan Jinshan, a descendant of Guanjia, was responsible for cooking, and Juzhen Garden built a house and hired famous teachers to further develop the enterprise.
1959, Yu Zhanhai, an old chef of Juzhenyuan, attended the National Heroes' Meeting and gave a technical performance in Huairentang, Zhongnanhai. 1in may, 988, the chef went to Beijing to participate in the second national cooking competition in summer; 199 1 In March, 2008, Zhou, a female pastry chef, participated in the second cooking competition in Hubei Province and won six gold medals and one silver medal in one fell swoop. 1September, 1993, Fu, Wang Jiachun and Jiang Dianguo, three master chef, participated in the 3rd National Cooking Grand Prix and won three gold medals and one silver medal, which made the store famous at home and abroad.
1983, Juzhenyuan built a three-story building in the backyard. Cao Liyan of Hubei Yellow Crane Tower Painting and Calligraphy Society personally wrote the banner of "Juzhen Garden gathers rare treasures and welcomes guests into the park" to celebrate. Guests from home and abroad poured in, and received foreign guests from Japan, the United States, Germany, Mexico, Australia, Romania and other countries, as well as compatriots from Hong Kong, Macao and overseas Chinese.
1984 At the beginning of this year, Wu, a famous national calligrapher and deputy director of China Art Museum, took the opportunity to rewrite the plaque of Juzhen Garden after tasting delicious food in the shop. 1In the autumn of 984, Guan, vice chairman of the Chinese Dramatists Association, came to Beijing to perform and went to a restaurant to eat, leaving a compliment of "Jingzhou Ancient City has good food, good hometown and many treasures".
1988, Juzhen Garden was expanded again with a business area of 8,300 square meters. When it was completed and opened for business, Pu Jie, the younger brother of the last emperor, wrote the couplet "Liaoshen is the first garden in Jingzhou", which has been hung in front of this magnificent gate.
1992, Juzhenyuan ushered in 90 years of ups and downs, renamed as "Juzhenyuan Hotel", with Juzhenyuan Restaurant, Juzhenyuan Food Factory, Juzhenyuan Hotel and Juzhenyuan Shopping Mall, and developed into a multi-functional comprehensive service enterprise.
The biggest advantage of time-honored brands lies in their profound cultural accumulation, and Juzhen Garden is no exception. According to the evaluation of relevant departments, the intangible assets of "Juzhenyuan" brand have reached 65.438+0.26 million yuan.
The dishes in Juzhen Garden not only reflect the strong regional characteristics of Jingchu in ingredients, but also contain profound cultural connotations. Every dish is a story, and every dish is a culture. Instead of eating here, it is better to trace the history here.
"Longfengpei" is one of the specialties of Juzhen Garden, which originated in the late Eastern Han Dynasty. Legend has it that Liu Bei and his wife returned to Jingzhou after their marriage. Zhuge Liang ordered his chef to develop this dish in order to prepare a dinner for Liu Bei. This dish is made from Jingzhou specialty Monopterus albus and Huang Guan chicken. The eel in the dish looks like a dragon, the chicken looks like a phoenix and dances like a dragon and a phoenix. Liu Bei and Mrs. Sun even praised Jingzhou as "the land of dragons and phoenixes, the land of plenty" at the banquet.
Jingzhou Fish Cake is one of the "Three Treasures of Juzhen Garden", which originated in the Warring States Period. During the Warring States Period, Jinan, the capital of Chu State, had a hotel specializing in cooking fresh fish. One summer, the shopkeeper bought a lot of fresh fish, but there were fewer guests and more fish left. Seeing that the fish was going to rot, the shopkeeper used his quick wits and made fish cakes. Diners feel fresh and delicious after tasting, and they are full of praise. This kind of cake has been continuously improved by later generations and has become the first banquet in Yizhou area. As the saying goes, no cake is not enough.
Jingzhou Spring Roll in Juzhen Garden is a traditional snack to welcome spring, which originated from the "spring plate" that people in Jin Dynasty fed each other that day in beginning of spring. During the Tang and Song Dynasties, eating "spring vegetables" became more popular. Du Fu once left a poem of "Fine Lettuce in Spring" in Jingzhou, and Su Shi also had a poem of "Try to sing a song in spring, and the leek is yellow". Since the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the spring plate has gradually evolved into a "spring roll". The spring rolls are spread with flour into thin skin, sandwiched with bacon and leeks, rolled into a tube and fried in an oil pan, with golden color and attractive aroma.
In addition, there are nearly 200 kinds of special dishes in Juzhen Garden, such as "thousand slices of meat", "eel mud", "eight-treasure rice" and "winter melon and turtle skirt for soup".
A century-old shop is moving forward in difficulties
After liberation, Juzhen Garden was merged into Jingzhou Tourism Catering Service Company through public-private partnership. It was a state-owned restaurant until 2004.
According to manager Zhang of Juzhenyuan Restaurant Department, "Juzhenyuan Restaurant" is a small shop of the company, with 42 employees, and its business situation is deteriorating. The main reason is the sluggish operation of the whole company, followed by the heavy burden. There are more than 200 retired employees alone, and the state-owned management system is not flexible, making it difficult for the company to develop. The once bustling "Garden in the Garden" banquet hall is now empty.
Manager Zhang said that it is very important to reform the system, introduce funds and obtain asset reorganization in order to build up the old brand of Zhenyuan. If you don't get rid of the burden, even the old signboard will be dragged down. At the end of 2005, Juzhenyuan implemented privatization reform, and Juzhenyuan Hotel was renamed Juzhenyuan Investment Plaza Co., Ltd. after resource reorganization.
In order to make the golden signboard of Juzhenyuan shine again, Juzhenyuan Investment Plaza Co., Ltd. has made a long-term plan for Juzhenyuan. The company invited design experts to Xi 'an, the ancient city, to plan and design the current site of Juzhenyuan, and turned it into a Juzhenyuan food factory integrating leisure, catering and shopping, and moved it outside the old south gate.
Zhou Jiahua, the person in charge of Juzhenyuan Investment Plaza Co., Ltd., told the reporter that the environmental quality around Juzhenyuan is very important for the development of time-honored brands. There are garbage transfer points and mobile public toilets next to Juzhen Garden in downtown Jingzhou to discourage diners from coming to eat.
At night, all kinds of vendors in the night market surrounded the gate of Juzhenyuan Hotel, and disposable tableware, sewage and other dirty things made it a mess. Pointing to the messy environment outside the park, Zhou Jiahua told reporters helplessly, "If the environment is not purified, even if Juzhenyuan Square is built as planned, no one will dare to come! I hope the relevant departments can get involved!
How to break the silence of Juzhen Garden
Zhou Jiahua told reporters that Jingzhou, as a famous cultural city, is imperative to go global. Juzhen Garden, a century-old shop, is closely related to this ancient city with a long history and profound Jingchu culture. While innovating, old shops should also inherit the history and culture of Juzhen Garden. Juzhen Garden should not sink in silence, but rise in silence.
Li Mingwu, a professor at the Department of Economics and Management of Yangtze University, said that compared with the general well-known brands, the old brands have two outstanding characteristics: First, they are historic, and their existence time ranges from decades to hundreds of years, highlighting the word "old"; Second, nationality and culture. Chinese time-honored brands have profound cultural connotations, which can reflect China's cultural traditions and national characteristics to a certain extent and highlight the word "Hua". The smooth inheritance of time-honored brands is inseparable from their unique ancient culture.
Lack of innovation is a big reason why time-honored brands can't do anything. In the era of market economy, new technologies and products mean the vitality of enterprises. Sticking to the rules and staying the same, in the era of market economy, is tantamount to standing still.
So how to combine innovation with the original old brand culture? This problem deserves our deep thought.
Some insiders pointed out that the government needs to escort an old brand like Juzhenyuan out of the predicament.
Government departments and all walks of life should fully understand its value and attach great importance to its role in the development of famous cultural cities and tourism resources. According to the different situations of time-honored brands, under the premise of ensuring fair competition, we should adopt corresponding policies to give guidance and support and push time-honored brands to the market.