I'm cooking in Sanlian

Waiting for you.

Text/Mu Yi

Eat out, walk into a stir-fry shop at will, and look at the menu and make up our minds. At this time, Sichuan style stew pork is probably a classic dish that can save the difficulty of choosing. Sichuan-style pork is sweet, thick and bright, which can support the dining table no matter where it is, because of its simple and ultimate temptation and virtuous sense of security.

Sichuan-style pork naturally ranges from snacks to large pieces. In the third year of high school, I was immersed in the mountains of Haishu all day. As soon as the meal came up, people rushed into the canteen like hungry wolves. At noon, I was looking forward to a perfect meal of fat and carbohydrates to relieve the fatigue of study. At that time, I felt that only the three dishes and one soup in the canteen contained temporary freedom.

The school canteen has four floors, and the cooking in the second canteen is very good. Every day 10: 30, a group of us will order food in advance and eat directly after class. Fish-flavored eggplant, boiled pork slices and Sichuan-style pork are often eaten, mostly fried and braised, which tastes thick and oily. Sichuan-style pork is very fat, with lobster sauce, garlic sprouts, green peppers and some pieces of meat to eat.

If you want to judge the pros and cons of a Sichuan restaurant, whether the pork is cooked or not should be the first criterion.

Cook the meat and add a little ginger, onion and pepper, which will make it easier to remove the fishy smell and hook the meat. The soy sauce is just right. Too much, the picture is black and unbalanced; Too little, no hue, let the appetite collapse. Stir-fried meat must have two or three layers of oil, the meat is slightly brown, curly and not dry. The meat is fragrant and warm, and then it can be seasoned with side dishes.

From the newly opened Sichuan restaurant to the shabby shops all over the street, Sichuan-style pork, full of chivalry and market spirit, is warm and boiling, always facing the surging hunger and taste buds of men and women rising from fireworks.

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Among pigs, pork belly has the most fans. Chefs in the north and south are well versed in the conditioning of pork belly. Braised pork, braised pork rice, braised pork and plum vegetables are hidden or obvious, all of which bring the beauty of pork belly to the extreme. Nowadays, Sichuan-style pork is mostly three-fat and two-thin pork, but the earliest Sichuan-style pork was made with two knives (that is, hind leg meat).

There are both fat and thin, but the order is different, and the taste is slightly different. Pork belly cut to the chase, fat and thin with the mouth, wonderful confusion broke out, equal. The excitement of the second knife meat is intense. Half of each, white and fat, red and thin, the chewiness of pigskin, the dissolution of fat and grease in the mouth, and the moderate lean meat, all rolled over the tip of the tongue, dripping and hearty.

Documentary "Sichuan first season"

The word "twice-cooked pork" first appeared in the text, and it is a book named "Overview of Chengdu" by 1908, which has been used ever since. Thirty years ago, the description of Sichuan cuisine recipes was basically like this: meat was cut twice with hind legs, cooked and sliced, and served with bean paste, sweet noodle sauce and soy sauce.

Bean paste is the soul of Sichuan cuisine, and the familiar sauce flavor is also the symbolic taste mark of Sichuan and Chongqing people. The most authentic Sichuan-style pork is blessed by Pixian red bean paste fermented for more than two years. This bean paste has been fully exposed, red and bright, and the sauce tastes mellow.

Old Sichuan chefs also have a tacit cooking secret-putting sugar, which can not only skillfully color the meat, but also add freshness to the dishes like spring rain. The practice of classic Sichuan-style pork is to chop Pixian watercress and let the umami substances in the sauce be released at will. The color of soy sauce, soft and sweet noodle sauce, slightly salty lobster sauce and different sauce flavors are finally wrapped in the sweetness of white sugar, which jointly explains the sense of integration. Eating in the mouth is the faint, full and full sauce flavor, with a hint of sweetness, which is not enough.

This simplicity and magic made Sichuan cuisine the first dish. The so-called first is not only the good heart of ordinary people, but also ordinary enough to see ingenuity in peacetime. Returning to the pot is a clever thinking. Taste is of course the biggest temptation. The appetite is simply satisfied and the heart is happy.

Documentary "24 hours in the city"

Compared with braised pork, it looks good when the heat is enough. The significance of braised pork is that the fierce fire makes the pork sallow and burnt, and the sliced meat rolled into a lamp nest is full of gas and full of fragrance. Sometimes when you meet guests at home, the food and meat are not delicious, and cooked pork can save everything. Cooking in time, waiting in time, big dishes are not difficult, and the dignity of the table will not be lost, and guests and friends will enjoy themselves.

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It has been surging for decades, and the biggest change of Sichuan pork is its handsome head. In my impression, garlic sprout is always the standard of Sichuan style pork. Pork has been forged by hot pot, and the emergence of garlic seedlings is only a scratch, taking its novel vegetable flavor. Stir-fry garlic quickly, so that the tender garlic seedlings are green and fragrant, and go deep into the oil. After a frenzy, the smell between garlic sprouts and meat spread.

When garlic seedlings are in short supply, green peppers, onions, dried beans, lotus seeds and pickles begin to enter the world of cooked pork. Sichuan-style pork has gradually spread into a universal formula, and each season has its own collocation. Salty and spicy, clear and thick, a few pieces of charred pork belly can stain any pretty head with charming fat fragrance.

Documentary "Sichuan first season"

Mom's private kitchen, the place where my roommates and I used to go in college, never forgot to burn pork with sea pepper. Sea pepper is a local special pickled product. Chop up fresh peppers, add salt and broken rice noodles, and experience a secret fermentation journey together.

Sea pepper can be eaten as a fried menu or as a seasoning, giving the ingredients a unique sour taste. Stir-fried pork with Sichuan flavor, sticky glutinous rice flour makes shredded pepper and sliced meat stick together, which looks like a combination of steamed meat, but it has a completely different flavor. Light acid does not take away fresh meat, but has more functions of decomposing greasy meat.

When I was a freshman, I accidentally became roommates with seven girls from different majors and classes because of insufficient school accommodation. Eight people sit around and eat like a mat every time. On the last hot dish, eight pairs of chopsticks rushed out and in, and the wind swept away. They are all in their early twenties and have amazing appetites. I remember my girlfriend in the upper bunk liked this dish, Guo Hui Meat with Taiwan Pepper. She has a pair of curved smiling eyes and a narrow oval face, which seems gentle and shy, but she is generous and sincere when eating Guo Hui meat.

The most common are green pepper and Sichuan pork.

The wrinkled green pepper with thick and slightly spicy meat shrinks rapidly in the clear yellow meat oil, bursts into white wrinkles and secretly softens. Pork belly is thin and fragrant, and it is covered with a layer of plant fragrance of green pepper, which can easily clean a bowl of white rice. The second time you eat the leftover meat, it tastes even better. Make a topping and mix it. It's delicious.

The popularity of Sichuan-style pork has also extended its sister dish-fried pork with salt. Salted pork can be fried with two knives, which can make a lean fillet. It is also the bottom taste of douban and douchi, and green garlic and green pepper are essential. Sliced meat tastes dry and sweet, and occasionally taking a bite of salty lobster sauce is a full cycle of small surprises.

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In the 1980s, the Dai brothers introduced Lianshan Sichuan style pork, which was cooked in the same way, but the meat became bigger, echoing the name. It is as big as an adult's palm, and the seasoning is more fragrant and oily. Since then, Sichuan-style pork has moved from hometown to rivers and lakes.

Home cooking lacks fireworks from parents' homes, and Jianghu dishes lack chivalry. No matter where you are, Sichuan-style pork has never changed its tolerance and closeness to the people.

In these two years, my stomach has become cautious and I don't often cook Sichuan-style pork at home. But there are also some moments when my heart is shaky and empty. I will fry a plate of excellent gold oil, bring it to the table in a hurry and say to myself, "Long time no see, Sichuan pork."

Author file

Mu Yi

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