1 The pressure rice cooker can't open the lid.
A: It won't open after cooking.
There is pressure inside, the float won't drop, and the lid is locked and can't be opened. Cancel the heat preservation, naturally cool until the internal pressure is close to atmospheric pressure, the float falls, and the cover is unlocked and opened. If there is no viscous liquid in the pot, you can manually exhaust the gas, cool down and release the pressure to open the lid. If there is viscous liquid in the pot, it is not advisable to exhaust it manually to avoid liquid splashing.
B: You can't turn it on if you unplug the power in the middle.
As long as there is a certain amount of steam, the electric pressure cooker will open the safety pin, thus interlocking the lid and the pot body. Only when the temperature inside drops, that is, the steam pressure weakens, can these pots be opened.
Do not unscrew the cover forcibly, because opening the cover will cause an explosion when the steam pressure inside is greater than the air pressure.
Quick opening method
Turn the red knob on the cover and the steam will leak out quickly. When there is no steam in it, the lid can be screwed out.
2 Electric pressure cooker leaks air
The top of this jar is leaking.
(1) The plastic shell on the top of the pot has cracked, and the pressure needle on the top of the pot can't hold down the gas column;
② There are too many sundries at the top of the gas outlet column, so that the pressure needle can not crush the gas outlet column;
(3) The pressure in the pot is too high or faulty. Before the pressure switch trips, it has exceeded the normal pressure, and the pot cover will automatically jack up and exhaust;
④ The inner apron cracked and leaked.
B: The float is leaking.
(1) The float has aged, broken and leaked;
(2) the position of the safety lever in the flat handle is incorrect, and there is resistance when the float rises, so that the float cannot rise completely for ventilation;
② The rubber ring fixed by the float is cracked and leaked.
C: rubber ring leaks (around the cover)
① The apron loses its sealing performance due to aging and wear;
(2) Whether the apron of the same apron does not match the pot, resulting in air leakage;
(3) Whether the inner container of the pot has fallen off or deformed.
3 Electric pressure cooker failure Other common failures 1: The cover of the electric pressure cooker does not fit. ① The sealing ring has not been placed properly, so reposition the sealing ring;
(2) The float is stuck in the push rod, and the push rod is gently pushed by hand to make the float fall;
③ The pot cover and the pot body are deformed, and the electric pressure cooker needs to be repaired or replaced;
(4) If the self-locking valve does not fall, use a sharp object to make the self-locking valve fall.
Fault 2: Electric pressure cooker timer does not turn A: clockwork timer pressure cooker
The timer stops running internally and is damaged;
Because the excrement left by some small animals has stuck the rotating cone in the timer, you can clean it up and troubleshoot it.
B: electric timing pressure cooker
The small motor in the timer has been burnt out and can't rotate, and it can't be disconnected within the specified holding time.
Fault 3: The light doesn't work after the power supply is turned on, mainly because of the power cord fault.
(1) Check whether the measurable fuse is disconnected. If it is disconnected, replace it with the corresponding fuse, and the fault can be eliminated; If the fuse is not blown, the thermostat at 145 degrees in the center of the pot bottom can be detected, and the thermostat will fail if it is not blown.
② Check whether the power cord is blocked.
(3) Check whether the power cord interface is melted and blocked.
Fault 4: The cover float cannot be lifted ① The float valve sealing ring is not put, but the float valve sealing ring is put;
② There is air leakage around the pot cover, so it is necessary to check the pot cover and the pot cover sealing ring;
③ If there is no pot cover sealing ring, put the pot cover sealing ring;
④ If the float valve is damaged, replace it.
Fault 5: There is no display on the control panel after power-on. ① The power plug has poor contact with the pot socket, so repair the power plug and socket.
(2) The internal wiring is in poor contact, so repair the internal wiring;
③ If the power board is damaged, replace it;
④ If the display panel is damaged, please replace it.
Fault 6: The fuse is blown immediately after the power supply is plugged in. (1) water or rice soup into the power socket, causing a short circuit. You can dry the water in the socket and continue to use it.
(2) Due to long-term use, the surface of the power socket or plug is carbonized and short-circuited, so the carbonized layer on the surface can be ground off with fine sandpaper and cleaned with alcohol.
Fault 7: Failure to keep warm after cooking may be that the surface of the normally closed contact of the heat preservation switch is dirty or ablated, so that the contact resistance of the contact is too large, which leads to contact closure, circuit blockage, heating pipe failure and rice cooker failure to keep warm.
At this time, the contact surface can be cleaned with fine sandpaper and plated with a layer of tin; If the insulation still cannot be maintained, the insulation switch can be replaced.
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