It has become a trend that people in the upper class are broad-minded and people in the lower class are narrow. Deep clothes have the meaning of hiding the body. They are the casual clothes of the literati class at home and the dresses of Shu Ren people. They are unisex and may be formed at the turn of the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. The ribbon-cutting of deep clothes is unique, and the clothes and shirts are connected together. When making, they are cut up and down, and there are seams in the middle. They are the most widely used, and the grand degree is second only to the clothes for the DPRK.
In 307 BC, King Wuling of Zhao issued the Hufu Order, which promoted "Hufu riding and shooting". Hufu refers to the costume of the "Hu people" at that time, which is quite different from that of take off your coat Bodai in the Central Plains. It is characterized by knee-length clothes, a Guoluo belt around the waist, hooks and boots, which are convenient for riding and shooting activities.
2. Qin and Han Dynasties
Compared with the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the material of clothing is richer, and the deep clothing has also got new development. In the third year of Jianyuan in the Western Han Dynasty (138 BC) and the fourth year of Yuanshou in the Western Han Dynasty (1 19 BC), Zhang Qian was ordered to go to the western regions twice, which opened up the land passage between China and western countries, and thousands of silks were exported continuously throughout the Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang Dynasties, which is called the "Silk Road" in history. As a result, Chinese costume culture spread to the world.
3. Sui and Tang Dynasties
China is unified by division, stable by war, and prosperous in economy and culture. The development of clothing, both in material and style, presents an unprecedented splendid scene. The most fashionable women's dress in Sui and Tang Dynasties was the Fu skirt, which was the main dress style of women in Tang Dynasty. In the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women's short skirts were all small sleeve, with tight-fitting long skirts and high waist, which were generally above the waist.
Some even tie them under their armpits and tie them with ribbons, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. The skirts in the middle Tang dynasty were wider than those in the early Tang dynasty, and the others did not change much. Women in Sui and Tang Dynasties are well dressed. The "half arm" spread from the court has the style of double-breasted, pullover, lapel or collarless. The sleeves are elbow-length and waist-length, and the chest is tied with a small belt. Because of the wide neckline, the upper chest is exposed when wearing it.
Half-arms lasted for a long time, and later men also wore them. At that time, a long scarf was also popular, which was made of gauze with silver flowers or gold and silver powder painted flowers. One end was fixed on the chest belt of the half arm, and then it was draped over the shoulders and wound around the arms, so it was called silk. The masculinization of women's clothing was one of the manifestations of social openness in the Tang Dynasty, and it was a fashion for women to wear men's clothing at that time.
4. Clothing in the Song Dynasty The men's wear in the Song Dynasty generally followed the style of the Tang Dynasty. Generally, people wore robes with collars or round necks, and when they were doing things, they stuffed their clothes on their belts. The clothes were black and white. At that time, retired officials and literati often wore a double-breasted gown called "straight jacket", with large sleeves and black edges at the cuffs, neckline and shirt corners.
Wear a bucket-shaped hat on your head, called Dongpo towel. In the Song Dynasty, women's dresses wore a short jacket with narrow sleeves on the top and a long skirt on the bottom. Usually, they wore a small long-sleeved coat with a double-breasted jacket, much like today's vests. The neckline and front of the coat were embroidered with beautiful lace. Men's clothing: coronation, the Song Dynasty began to reduce the types of coronation, and the situation of wearing non-coronation clothes at big ceremonies often appeared.
In the Song Dynasty, the royal dress was decorated with special decoration, which was called the square heart and curved collar. Public service, the Song Dynasty took the official service as the public service. Women's clothing: dress, its clothing color is roughly the same as that of Tang Dynasty. Long sleeves, long skirts and gowns are all common clothes.
5. Yuan Dynasty
It is an era of ethnic integration in the history of China, and clothing also fully embodies this feature. After Genghis Khan, the first ancestor of Yuan Dynasty, founded the capital in 1206 and destroyed Xixia and Jin, the ethnic composition was mainly Mongolian. In the Yuan Dynasty, due to the sharp ethnic contradictions, the textile industry and handicraft industry were greatly damaged. Palace clothing system has long been extended to Song style.
It was not until l32 1 year in Yuan Yingzong that the ancient system was referred to, and the "quality sun suit" system was formulated, in which the tops of Tianzi and Baiguan were tight at the bottom and short at the bottom, and the waist was covered with large beads on their shoulders. The Han people called it "one-color suit" or "quality sun suit". This is a clothing system that inherits the Han nationality and has the characteristics of Mongolian nationality. Women's clothing in Yuan Dynasty was divided into two styles: noble and civilian.
Most of the nobles are Mongolians, wearing fur coats and hats as national costumes. Mink and sheepskin are widely used in clothing, and the styles are mostly wide robes, with narrow cuffs and wide sleeves. Because the clothes are long and drag the floor, your wife must be led by a slave when she goes out for pleasure. This robe has a cloud shoulder on the shoulder, which is the so-called "golden embroidered cloud shoulder jade tassel", which is very gorgeous.
As a gown, the fabric texture is very elegant, using big red woven gold, brocade, velvet and very long felt fabric. At that time, the most popular colors were red, yellow, green, brown, rose, purple and gold. ? In the Yuan Dynasty, civilian women wore Han nationality's skirts with half arms, which was quite popular. The appearance of Han costume often appeared on the dancers in the palace, and the narrow sleeve shirts and hats in the Tang Dynasty were also preserved.
6. Ming and Qing Dynasties
In the Ming Dynasty, the traditional clothing of Han nationality was the main body, while in the Qing Dynasty, the clothing of Manchu nationality was the main stream. The costumes of the upper and lower classes of the two generations have obvious grades. The official dress of the upper class is a symbol of power and has always been valued by the ruling class. Since the Tang and Song Dynasties, robes and yellow have been exclusively used by the royal family. Since the Southern and Northern Dynasties, purple has been the most expensive. In the Ming Dynasty, because the emperor surnamed Zhu, Zhu was regarded as the positive color.
Because the Analects of Confucius has "the evil purple seizes Zhu also", purple has been abolished from official clothes. The most distinctive feature is the use of "tonic" to indicate the grade. The patch is a piece of silk about 40 ~ 50 cm square, embroidered with different patterns, and then sewn on the official dress, one on the chest and one on the back.
7. Modern
After the founding of the People's Republic of China, clothing advocated simplicity and practicality. From 1950s to 1970s, Zhongshan suit gradually became the main clothing for men, and in addition, military casual clothes and people's clothes were popular. Women's clothing was influenced by the Soviet Union, and dresses were popular in cities. In addition, Lenin's clothes were popular. However, in rural areas, it has always been the traditional costume of most farmers. After 1978, China implemented the policy of reform and opening up, reflecting the spirit of the times.
Clothing with Chinese characteristics has mushroomed and taken on a new look. Among them, Hanfu, which has long represented China's traditional costumes and is influenced by multi-ethnic costumes, shines brilliantly. Chinese tunic suit appeared around the 1920s and gradually became popular in cities.
The vast rural areas have always followed the traditional coat and trousers, wearing felt hats or hats. Wearing the cloth shoes sewn by oneself. Women's wear. The Revolution of 1911 brought diversification. Besides a coat and trousers, more coats and skirts were worn. Since the 1920s, women have loved cheongsam, which has gradually become a fashion.
Baidu encyclopedia-China clothing