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Why you like fried steamed bread.
An asphalt barrel (a large barrel of gasoline invented by Americans in the early years, 53 gallons and 200 liters per barrel) was transformed into a stove with a large pan on it. After the pot was hot, the master sprinkled oil on the bottom of the pot with an oil pan and finished the production.

Put the prepared steamed buns in one by one, then pour heavy oil, some water and cover them with wooden lids. After a while, the master rummaged the pot from time to time, about 10 minutes. The master opened the pot, sprinkled a handful of chopped green onion and sprinkled it again.

Sesame seeds, covered with a heavy wooden lid for a minute or two, come out of the pot and smell fragrant. Customers buy a few ounces (that is, a few customers), take a bite, and suddenly their mouths are full of fragrance, thick and delicious. This is the traditional meaning.

Shanghai fried steamed bread on the dining table is a favorite snack for the general public.

The origin of fried steamed bread is actually in Suzhou. The fried steamed bread in Wuyuan Teahouse, 19 1 1, is the most famous and popular in Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghai. In the 1920s, fried steamed bread entered Shanghai and was sought after by the public because of its economic benefits. So most people only know "Shanghai fried steamed bread", but not many people know its past life. Fried steamed bread has been in Shanghai for many years, and it has been developing continuously, with different schools appearing.

Speaking of fried steamed bread, I want to mention a Huang Chujiu. Huang Chujiu's ancestors were doctors. This person developed in Shanghai in his early years. With his quick thinking and excellent communication skills, he is at home in Shili Foreign Exchange, but he is also caught in a situation of flattery.

The name of the boss businessman. He first developed in the medical field and then set foot in the entertainment industry. At that time, the new world and the big world in Shanghai were his industries. The Sino-French Pharmacy and Wuzhou Pharmacy he runs are both famous. Among them, only he pushed.

The product of "Ailuo Bunao Juice" is all the rage. He did not hesitate to advertise in newspapers and outdoors, making good use of the foreign worship psychology of some citizens and making a big profit in the market. Later, a "century-old machine" was released to let him

I earn a lot of money every day.

Huang Chujiu knows the importance of information in business. As early as the 1920s, he opened Luochunge Tea House on Zhejiang Road in the city center. This is an important position for him to collect business information and also a place to exchange information. You can smell business opportunities and meet more business partners in the teahouse.

At the beginning of last century, Shanghai's teahouses only drank tea, as did the three major teahouses in the city center, such as Luo Chun Pavilion, Risheng Building and a pot of spring. For those who drink tea, there is only tea in the teahouse and nothing else, which leads to the teahouse not being able to last long.

Keep guests occasionally, because tea drinkers will leave hungry. It is said that one day, Huang Chujiu went out by bus from the home of "Zhizu Road" on Aiduoya Road (Yan 'an Middle Road), passing through Sima Road (Fuzhou Road) and saw an alley.

As in the past, the business of fried steamed bread stalls was booming, which stopped the driver. He deliberately got off the bus and bought a few early adopters, feeling much more delicious than the raw fried steamed bread elsewhere. He had a brainwave: if fried steamed bread is also introduced into Luochunge teahouse, it will be like this.

People who drink tea must be satisfied. But where can I find a chef who can make such delicious steamed bread? Later, Huang Chujiu found that the stall head of raw-fried steamed bread in the alley suddenly closed, thinking that the opportunity had come, so he asked the man to inquire. study

The reason for going out of business is that the small boss thinks that the master's stuffing is too authentic and adds too much aspic (aspic melts into fresh juice while it is hot, so it is delicious). The cost is too high and he can't make money, so he stops the master's business. Huang Chujiu, listen, mom.

In fact, I invited the steamed bread master to Luochunge at a higher price than the original small boss to make fresh-fried steamed bread on the pavement of the teahouse. Huang Chujiu knows how to run a business. He must earn popularity first, even if he loses money. He asked the master to do it.

After the steamed bread is stuffed, put more aspic. So, at that time, Luochunge's tea guests were full, saying that Luochunge steamed bread was delicious. This move not only retained the original tea customers, but also attracted a large number of new customers who came for fried steamed bread. what

Yes, Luochunge fried steamed bread has become the first brand of fried steamed bread in old Shanghai. After a long time, tea drinkers mentioned Luo Chunge, first fried steamed bread, followed by Chaze. Another way of saying this is that Wang is in Luochunge, Zhejiang Road.

There is a fried steamed bread stand in the alley next to the teahouse. Because of its delicious taste and excellent business, the tea drinkers in Luo Chun Pavilion are also the main customers. When people here talk about fried food, they will say "Luochunge Fried Food". So Huang Chujiu simply said.

He is in charge of the head of a stall. As a result, Luo Chunge ushered in a prosperous business with the help of fried steamed bread. By analogy, the title of founder of Luo Chunge fried steamed bread should be counted on Huang Chujiu. Although the above two statements are different, they are all fried raw.

The first master was Tang, a native of Danyang, Jiangsu. 193 1 in the late 1920s, due to commercial speculation and the attack of Huang and Du on the sea, it began to decline.

Died of depression in. In the end, Luo Chunge was taken over by the Tang family, and the business was getting better and better. 1932, Tang Miao-quan, the nephew of the Tang family, opened a "Dahuchun Steamed Bread Shop" in hankou road, Sichuan Road, and his business was booming.

Therefore, Shanghainese, big or small, all know that eating fried food requires eating "Luochunge" and "Dahuchun".

Whether it's Luochunge or Dahuchun, the raw fried steamed buns of these two companies are from Danyang Tangjia, and the recipes of these two companies are of course confidential.

I don't want to show anyone, but I can still distinguish one from the other in concrete form, which has also formed two major factions of Shanghai raw-fried steamed bread, namely, "mixed water raw-fried" and "clear water raw-fried". Boiling is popular now, and it was fried in Luochunge in the early days.

As a representative, Shanghai's famous "Yu Feng Chao" and "Xiao Yang Chao" now also belong to this category. This kind of fried pork is mainly made of fresh pork and jelly. In the treatment of flour and stuffing, semi-fermented noodles are used, and jelly is put in the stuffing, which is more convenient.

Ask for soup and fold the steamed bread. On the other hand, it is fried in clear water without jelly, and the most famous one is the old-fashioned "Dahuchun" founded by 1932. Dahuchun uses fully fermented noodles, and there is no jelly in the filling, so the filling is juicy.

It's missing. The steamed bread is wrinkled.

The boss, Tang Miaoquan, decided that since the fried steamed bread is steamed bread, it should look like steamed bread; The skin should have certain elasticity and texture; Meat stuffing must be solid; In addition, because the thick skin may lead to poor eating, Dahuchun works hard on the hair surface to make it fluffy without losing its bite.

Luochunge and Dahuchundu make "curry beef Soup" for diners to "eat" raw fried steamed bread. These are really known in old Shanghai. As fried steamed bread is one of the most common breakfasts in Shanghai, this snack is sold by old Shanghai restaurants such as Qiaojiazha Restaurant, Wangjiasha and Wuyuan Bakery.

According to textual research, the store move of Dahuchun steamed bread shop is actually not "Dahuchun", but "Dayuanchun" (as evidenced by photos). Zhang Xiaodong's book Pidgin: Shanghai's Past points out: "The original name of Dahuchun is actually not Hu Da.

Spring is Da Chun. "But most Shanghainese pronounce the word" bian "as the word" pot ",so they will make a mistake and simply call it" big pot spring ". Its old shop address is at the terminal of No.26 trolley bus (Shanghai)

Guan), it doesn't exist now. Incidentally, there is a story about Zhang Zhidong's strict rejection of "tin teapot", which is also related to "pot". Some Wang Qingzhe took gifts and made a special trip to worship Zhang Zhidong, hoping to get an official position. king

He seems to be a well-educated college student, and he is a little close to Zhang Zhidong in a roundabout way. Zhang Zhidong was pouring tea from a tin teapot when he saw a gift. He scolded, "I don't need those things. I will test your study first. "

Knowledge. When Wang Qing handed in his own materials, Zhang Zhidong looked at the distorted handwriting and the lack of literary talent, and then at the tin teapot on the case. He had a brainwave and wrote the word "tea" in print, saying, you can recognize these three words.

Words? Wang blurted out, "Mr. Zhang, don't make fun of me. How can I not know the word' tin teapot'? " Zhang Zhidong said, "Please recognize it again carefully, right?" Wang Qing said firmly, "I often use tin teapots, too."

Is there something wrong? "Zhang Zhidong gave a hand:" Fujian! "The next day, Zhang Zhidong sent the alternate magistrate Wang Qing back to his hometown and wrote these words in the article:" My book is a cup of tea. "

(Yang, Tu, Kun), while Er is pronounced tin teapot. There are only a few words in each of the three words, which are obviously different in sound and meaning and easy to make mistakes. Your son has been facing the wall for another ten years, and has never seen Tin Teapot since. "It can be seen that the word' easy' is to be mispronounced in an unguarded moment.

Yes

After the change of the mainland regime, Luo Chunge and Dahuchun continued to operate, and they were renamed during the Cultural Revolution, and their original names were restored after the Cultural Revolution. During the Cultural Revolution, I lived near Luochunge, Zhejiang Road and Tianjin.

Luo Chunge, the boss of Lunongtang, was criticized for exploiting workers "cruelly". In fact, he also got rich by hard work and shrewdness. In the 1980s, with the rise of market economy, collective enterprises such as Luo Chunge and Dahuchun.

It has also withstood the ups and downs of the market economy. In addition to the facade business of Dahuchun on Ninghai West Road, the Luo Chun Pavilion has disappeared.

Since the reform and opening up, in the 1980s, there was a "Friendship League" bombing on the road in northern Shaanxi.

Shantou enjoys a high reputation in Shanghai. Later, the municipal government moved, and "Youlian" moved to Jiangning Road and Haiphong Road. Later, "Xiao Yang Fried" rose again. The female boss of "Xiao Yang fried-dumpling" is Yang, a child of educated youth living in Shanghai with a keen sense of business.

Jue, she opened "Xiao Yang Chao" on Wujiang Road on 1994 and has been expanding since then. Currently, there are nearly 100 stores in Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghai. Another "abundance" is not bad. These fried noodles are semi-fermented, and the pleats are facing down. In addition to going up

Outside several local fried shops, most of the fried steamed buns in Shanghai are opened by foreigners. These shops have both Shanghai style and local food culture. It can be said that it is Baige.

Competing for traffic, each leading the way. However, it may be based on the convenience of operation, and some shops even use dead noodles in flour processing. This kind of fried steamed bread made without fermented noodles has a thin skin and a big stuffing, otherwise it will collapse.

It's not shaped, so the fried food always tastes slightly inferior, because you don't eat steamed bread, but stuffing and meatballs. The proportion of skin and stuffing is unbalanced, and the taste is definitely uncomfortable.

There are other places.

Diners ask why Shanghainese call it "raw fried steamed bread" when it is clearly "raw fried steamed bread". In fact, this is caused by dialects. In Shanghai dialect, there is no such word as "steamed stuffed bun". Shanghai dialect refers to the "steamed stuffed bun" in the northern dialect as

"XX steamed bread", such as "vegetable steamed bread" and "meat steamed bread". There are monosyllabic words of Bao in Shanghai dialect, such as "big meat bag", "vegetable meat bag" and "soup bag". In Shanghai dialect, the "steamed bread" without stuffing in northern dialect is also called "steamed bread"

Head ",the old Shanghai dialect called it" bread ". This is a linguistic problem, so we won't discuss it in depth.

This delicious dish of Shanghai residents has also attracted the attention of foreigners. Forbes magazine has selected the most wonderful and unique "must eat" food in the world, and Shanghai fried steamed bread is on the list. From the historical and cultural point of view, Shanghai fried steamed bread is a reflection of Shanghai's modern economic development and a part of Shanghai culture. Shanghai citizens can't live without fried steamed bread, which is a part of their lives.