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Report | 2010-04-04 12:09 A method of raising Clivia

1 Soil: The native place of Clivia is the high altitude of southern Africa Under the large trees in the regional forest, the roots are rooted in the layer of rotten leaves accumulated over the years. Clivia should be raised in loose and fertile neutral or weakly acidic humus soil. The cultivation soil can be a mixture of 65% humus soil, 20% clean sand, and 15% fine furnace ash. The relative humidity of the soil should be around 40%. If the soil is compacted and drainage is poor, it will lead to root rot. Change the soil in spring. It is best to buy special soil for planting Clivia. The special soil for Clivia is rotten leaf soil, which is very suitable for the growth of Clivia.

2 Fertilization: Apply solid fertilizer to Clivia once in winter, apply less nitrogen fertilizer and more phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. Eggshell powder and cooked fish water are good phosphate fertilizers, and bran ash and soot are easily available potash fertilizers. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium compound fertilizers can also be applied to promote the germination of more new plants and leaves. Fertilizer must be applied in an appropriate amount. Do not apply concentrated fertilizer or raw fertilizer that has not been fermented and decomposed. Otherwise, it will easily cause the leaf tips to wither or rot. If spots appear on new leaves and the roots turn yellow in winter, it means too much fertilizer has been applied. If the new leaves are narrow, thin and extremely light in color, it means lack of fertilizer.

3 Watering: The soil should not be too dry or too wet. It must be watered thoroughly every time, and more after budding. Every 20 days or so, fermented bean cake water, light fishy water, horseshoe water, etc. can be combined with watering to combine watering and fertilization. When the room temperature is low, watering should be controlled to prevent the pot soil from being too wet. Too wet pot soil will cause plant root rot and death, but the pot soil should not be made too dry.

4 Heat preservation: The suitable temperature for the growth of Clivia in winter is 15-20℃, preferably not lower than 10℃. The temperature should be kept at about 18°C ??after the arrows are released, and the temperature difference between day and night is best at about 10°C. Otherwise, the flowers and arrows will bloom before they grow to an appropriate height, which will easily lead to "pinched arrows". When the outdoor temperature falls below 10°C at night, the Clivia must be moved indoors. When the indoor temperature is lower than 10°C, in addition to covering the surface of the pot soil with a layer of 1 cm thick charcoal powder for insulation, the flower pot must also be placed in a sunny and warm place indoors. When the indoor temperature is particularly low, you can cover the flowerpot with a film to raise the temperature, but the temperature inside the cover cannot exceed 25°C. If it exceeds, ventilation and cooling must be carried out in time.

5 Light: Clivia blooms easily under short day conditions. Exposure to the scorching sun and direct sunlight in summer can cause sunburn and inhibit growth. It should be cultivated under a shade shed or in a semi-shady environment without direct sunlight from May to September every year. But the longer the sun exposure in winter, the better. Low light during flowering can extend the flowering period. It likes warmth and coolness, and avoids severe cold and heat. It generally grows well at a temperature of 18-20℃ and stops growing below 5℃. After the Clivia enters the room, the light is restricted and the flower pot needs to be manually moved for adjustment. Under normal circumstances, flower pots should be placed indoors in a sunny place during the day so that sunlight can reach the plants. Before flowering, the flower pot should be placed under a fluorescent lamp at night to supplement the light. Since the two rows of leaves of Clivia are opposite, if the light is in the same position for a long time, the leaves will grow unevenly and affect the viewing effect. Therefore, you should pay attention to the direction of the leaves when adjusting the light, and change the sunny side every 10 days or so. There are two ways to place flowerpots indoors: one is to place the leaves parallel to the sun-facing window, and the other is to place the leaves perpendicular to the sun-facing window. The latter one has a better effect than the former one.

6 Extend the flowering period: The flowering period of Clivia is mostly from December to March of the following year. The way to extend the flowering period is to place the flowers in a dark place when they are about to bloom, control watering appropriately, and keep the temperature at 8-12°C. In this way, the flowering period can be extended by 10-20 days.

Causes and solutions to the pinched arrows of Clivia

If the above methods are properly maintained, it will generally not cause pinched arrows. Once pinched arrows are caused, only symptomatic treatment can achieve the effect. . The specific countermeasures are:

1 Adjust fertilizer: In autumn, Clivia enters the reproductive growth period, and the amount of fertilizer required increases. If fertilizer is not applied properly, it will not be conducive to scape growth. Therefore, pay attention to fertilizer adjustment. Generally, after Clivia has been cultivated for 3 years, the frequency of fertilization must be increased in autumn. It is best to use liquid fertilizer with higher phosphorus content. If necessary, an additional 20% of potassium dihydrogen phosphate should be applied to promote the differentiation and formation of flower buds and quickly "shoot". Blooms early.

2 Adjust water: Water can keep the Clivia plant in a normal posture. Only cells and tissues in the body contain sufficient water can they carry out normal physiological activities.

If the Clivia lacks water, it will not be able to bloom, and the leaves will appear dry, withered, drooping and curled. Therefore, when flying arrows, you should break the conventional watering method of "seeing wet and drying", increase the amount of watering appropriately, and never let the pot soil dry out, otherwise it will cause arrows to be pinched and affect flowering.

3 Temperature adjustment: The optimal temperature for the growth of Clivia is 15℃-25℃. If it is lower than 15℃, it will be difficult to bloom. If you find that the pseudobulbs of Clivia are bulging and the newly grown leaves have "arrow paths" (which refers to the signs that after the Clivia flower buds differentiate, the scapes begin to grow, and the newly grown leaves are squeezed by the scapes), this is If there are signs of "shooting", you should pay attention to adjusting the temperature at this time to reach 25°C during the day and 15°C at night. In this way, the temperature difference is maintained at 10°C, and archery will be easier.

4 Decompression: Due to the excessive pressure on the leaf sheaths and pseudobulbs, the quills are trapped inside and cannot escape. This is another reason for clipping the arrows. If this happens, you can use a sterilized razor blade to cut the leaf sheath holding the arrowhead 1.5 cm open to relax the pressure on the arrowhead from the base of the leaf sheath to encourage the arrowhead to come out.

Three ways to correct the skewed leaves of Clivia:

1. Use a small clip with appropriate strength (such as a small bamboo clip for drying) and put soft paper on it to directly connect the skewed leaves with the straight leaves. Clamp them together, and the crooked leaves can be corrected after a while.

2 Use opaque tinfoil paper or thin cardboard according to the length of the blade, fold it to 1/2 the width of the blade, and fix it on the blade with hairpins or razor-shaped pins. Fix the blade when it tilts to that side. There, the leaves can recover in a few days. During this process, attention should be paid to observation to prevent over-correction.

3 When looking at the Clivia from the front, some leaves are widely spaced apart, and some leaves are close to each other. You can use thick cardboard to make a set of boards. According to the number of leaves, open some leaves with equal spacing. slot and carefully snap the blade into it. After processing and shaping in various ways above, the Clivia can reach the ideal shape of a line when viewed from the side and like an open fan when viewed from the front.

Usually, you should pay attention to the placement direction of Clivia. You should point the tops of the leaves to the north and south directions respectively, and regularly rotate the flower pot 180 degrees to alternate the north and south orientations of the two sets of leaves.

It is best to change the soil for Clivia in spring and autumn, because the temperature is suitable at this time and the Clivia grows vigorously, so the growth will not be affected by soil replacement. In the south, the vigorous growth period of Clivia is from March to June. At this time, the temperature in various parts of the south is generally the lowest is 10℃~15℃ and the highest is 20℃~28℃. In some areas, it may exceed 30℃, which is more suitable for Clivia. Growth temperature. The growers can repot and change the soil in March to April according to the actual conditions of the region; the second is August to September, when the weather is warm and cool and the temperature is moderate, which is the second vigorous growth period of Clivia. Depending on the growth of the plant, growers can perform autumn repotting in mid-August. It should be noted that after Clivia shoots, or is in the budding and flowering stage, it is best not to change the soil, because the plant requires a lot of nutrients at this stage, and changing the soil will affect the continuous supply of nutrients. However, if the soil needs to be replaced due to rotten roots or yellow leaves due to poor soil quality, care should also be taken not to break up the lumps and to minimize the loss of the root system caused by soil replacement.

Potting operation

For flower pots that need to be replaced with soil, they must be watered once the day before soil replacement. When changing pots, place the potted flowers diagonally on the ground and use a Hold the false bulb of the plant with one hand, hold the flower pot with the other hand, slowly turn it upside down, and tap the edge of the pot lightly on the wooden bench, and the plant will come out. If you repot an adult Clivia that is over 4 years old, it should be done by two people, that is, one person holds the pseudobulb of the plant with both hands, and the other person holds the flowerpot with both hands, and gently taps the edge of the pot on the wooden bench. Remove the plant. When taking out the clivia with soil clumps, be careful not to break the soil clumps to avoid damaging the root system.

After the plant is poured out of the pot, the soil should be gently peeled off, and the aging and rotten fleshy roots should be removed (but there are no rotten fleshy roots, no matter how long they are, they cannot be cut off, because these fleshy roots There are many root hairs on the roots and tips. In addition to absorbing water and nutrients, these root hairs can also secrete a variety of acids to dissolve nutrients that are not easily dissolved in the soil and expand the absorption. Although the plant will not die if they are cut off, the plant will not die. But it will definitely affect growth). Then wash the roots with clean water (don’t wash the one- and two-year-old seedlings), dry them in the sun for two or three hours, and then pot them up.

When replacing a new pot, first use a piece of debris to cover half of the drainage hole at the bottom of the flowerpot, and then use a piece of debris to place it diagonally on the other half of the drainage hole. This will facilitate ventilation and drainage.

At the same time, first put a layer of fine flakes or slag particles at the bottom of the flower pot to increase drainage and breathability, and then fill it with a layer of loose coarse-grained soil or large pieces of leaf mold soil. In this way, the roots of the Clivia can easily stretch and have better ventilation and drainage, preventing fine soil from blocking the holes in the bottom of the pot, causing excessive water accumulation and root rot. When filling the soil, water can be divided into two times. When the culture soil reaches more than half of the pot, hold the Clivia pseudobulb with your right hand and gently lift it up to let the root system straighten, and then water the first time. In this way, nutritious soil can smoothly enter between each root system to avoid lack of soil between some roots. When the nutrient soil is 2~cm away from the mouth of the pot, water it again to make the nutrient soil solid. Water thoroughly both times.

The newly potted Clivia should be placed in a shaded place for about 10 days to slow down the evaporation of water and gradually restore its vitality. This is called "potting". After 10 days, the light can be gradually increased.