Pu 'er tea is a kind of historical traditional tea which originated from Pu 'er and its surrounding areas. For thousands of years, Pu 'er tea has become the most attractive and popular drink at home and abroad because of its superior natural environment, excellent tea varieties, unique processing technology, unique shape, colorful tea drinking methods, long production history and beneficial effects on human health. At the same time, the origin of Pu 'er tea is a multi-ethnic area in Yunnan, which makes Pu 'er tea contain a wide range of ethnic characteristics and rich cultural connotations. Pu 'er tea has a long history of cultivation. According to Daoguang's "Pu 'er Fu Zhi" and "Six Chashan Ruins"; As early as the Three Kingdoms period 1700, Pu 'er Prefecture began to grow tea. The earliest person who recorded the cultivation of Pu 'er tea in historical documents was Fan Chuo, a Tang man who had personally visited Nanzhao in Yunnan in the third year of Xian Tong in the Tang Dynasty (AD 862). In the seventh volume of Schumann, he said: "Tea leaves the mountains in the silver world and is scattered but not picked. Meng Sherman drinks with Chili, ginger, cinnamon and stir-fry. " "Tea" is Pu 'er tea; "Sound" is one of the six festivals of Nanzhao in Tang Dynasty, and "Sound City" is now the county seat of JD.COM. "Yinsheng Jieshan", that is, Ailao Mountain in the east of JD.COM and Wuliang Mountain in the west of JD.COM, shows that these areas have domesticated, utilized and developed tea in the Tang Dynasty, and they have a certain production scale and formed a certain market as commodities. During Nanzhao period, the "Music Festival" governed Simao, Xishuangbanna, and parts of Dali and Lincang. The method of "collecting tea without collecting it" means that tea was mainly collected in bulk at that time, and the method of "steaming, pounding, patting, cultivating, wearing and sealing" in the mainland was not adopted; "Meng Sherman" refers to the ruling nation of Nanzhao at that time; "Boil and drink with pepper, ginger and cinnamon" means that the method of drinking tea at that time was to put tea, pepper, ginger and cinnamon slices together in a pot to drink. (Because unprocessed tea leaves or sun-dried tea leaves with insufficient deactivation temperature have a grasslike astringency, it is a good method for ancient Nanzhao ethnic minorities to cook with tea leaves with heavy seasonings such as "pepper, ginger and cinnamon". At the same time, the effects of "Zanthoxylum bungeanum, ginger and cinnamon" on dispelling wind, warming and nourishing yang also have pharmacological effects on people living in plateau. The contents in Schumann clearly describe the origin of tea and the tea farmer Meng Sheman who created the way of drinking ginger. Inferred from the recorded tea-producing areas and ethnic groups, it is consistent with the main producing areas of Pu 'er tea later. This is also the most detailed and reliable tea production record in Pu 'er tea area. According to this research, the cultivation and utilization of Pu 'er tea has a long history, which has been 1700 years. Sok Li's Continued Natural History in the Southern Song Dynasty contained: "Tea gives birth to Yinshan". Its scope includes Ailao, two boundless mountains and the rest of the vein in Yinsheng area. In the Tang Dynasty, Simao was rich in tea. Today, Simao City and its surrounding areas are the earliest areas for domestication, large-scale planting and development of tea trees. Jingdong, Zhenyuan, Jinggu, Pu 'er, Lancang and other places with wild ancient tea trees, picked and used tea before the Tang Dynasty, cultivated tea trees, and became commodities in the Tang Dynasty. From the Tang Dynasty to the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Simao became an important tea producing area in China and even the world. Li's "Yunnan Zhilue Foreigners' Customs" said: "Jinya and more than a hundred foreigners traded for five days-gathering, trading with felt cloth, salt and tea." It shows that Pu 'er tea has become an important commodity in the border areas at that time. Xie Ming Zhao Zhi said in A Brief Introduction to Yunnan: "All scholars use tea". In the Ming Dynasty, the name of "General Tea" was officially recorded in the history books. The book "Yunnan Ji" written by Cui contains: "Pu 'er tea is famous all over the world because of the six tea mountains to which Pu 'er belongs. The first day is called aulacese, the second day is called Bangbang, the fourth day is called Mangzhi, the fifth day is called Manduan, and the sixth day is called Mansha. Hundreds of thousands of people went into the mountains to make tea. " These six tea mountains are all within the boundary of Simao Hall in Pu 'er prefecture. Pu 'er House was the distribution center of tea trade at that time, and most of the tea in the six tea mountains belonging to Simaotang was concentrated in Pu 'er House, and after processing and refining, it was sold at home and abroad. Li Shizhen's Compendium of Materia Medica in the Ming Dynasty also recorded "Pu 'er Tea Leaves in Yunnan Pu 'er Mansion". In the Ming Dynasty, Fang Yizhi also wrote in "Introduction to Physics": "Pu 'er tea steamed into balls, which is the city of Xifan". It shows that Pu 'er tea was officially recorded in the history books in the Ming Dynasty, which proves that the advanced methods of picking and making tea in the mainland were introduced into the processing technology of Pu 'er tea, Pu 'er tea was accepted and consumed by all walks of life, Pu 'er tea became a tea distribution center, and Pu 'er tea was well-known in China. There are many descriptions of tea in Pu 'er area by predecessors, including cultivation management, processing, color varieties, product flow direction and so on. It shows that tea production at that time occupied an important historical position in the local area and was an important economic income of ethnic minorities in mountainous areas. Berlin, the former governor of Yunnan in the Qing Dynasty, wrote a picture of people entering Yunnan, talking about "black nest mud" (that is, Harbin and Aini people today): "Picking and selling tea is also a business, and women are diligent. Although they can't let go, Pu 'er House is Simao. " To be sure, some Hani people in mountainous areas make a living by picking and selling tea. In addition to Schumann in Tang Dynasty, Continued Biography in Song Dynasty, Yunnan Brief in Ming Dynasty, Compendium of Materia Medica, Pu 'er Tea Annals in Qing Dynasty, Zhi Heng and Pu 'er Fu Annals in Yuhai, Yunnan, there are also books such as Newly usurped Yunnan Tongzhi and Yunnan Tongzhilong Compilation in the Republic of China. Where is Pu 'er tea produced? At present, most people think that Pu 'er tea is named after Pu 'er House, which is the origin and distribution center of Pu 'er tea. Because according to the law of market formation in the period of natural economy, in order to form a large-scale distribution of a certain commodity, first of all, this place must have a certain commodity output. After commodities meet their own consumption, most of the output will be exchanged as commodities, and then merchants will gather to buy and sell one after another, forming trade, which will gradually spread to the surrounding areas due to market demand. According to historical records, during the Yongzheng period of the Qing Dynasty, the court established a floating official system in Pu 'er House, and strengthened the management of its three halls, one county and one division. Its core is to promote the scientific research and development of tea planting, form bulk commodities, increase taxes for the court, and assume the responsibility of paying tribute to the court. Therefore, the establishment of Pu 'er Prefecture has greatly promoted the development of tea in Pu 'er area. Over time, a large-scale processing trade centered on Pu 'er House gradually formed around the tea industry, and Pu 'er became the source of the ancient tea-horse road. It is recognized by tea scholars that the post-fermentation process of Pu 'er tea is a special process formed by caravan during long-term transportation. Tea merchants own the caravan, and Pu 'er is a place where tea merchants gather in groups. More importantly, tea merchants introduced and sold Pu 'er tea to all parts of the world along the five ancient tea-horse roads radiating from Pu 'er, so the world learned about Pu 'er tea. According to the Records of Pu 'er Mansion, there were guilds, restaurants and tea shops all over Pu 'er Mansion at that time, and Chinese and foreign tea merchants were jostling with each other, becoming a commercial town with great influence at home and abroad. Therefore, Pu 'er House is not only the distribution center of Pu 'er tea, but also the earliest place of origin, which plays an irreplaceable core role in the development of tea industry in surrounding areas. Therefore, Pu 'er tea is produced in Pu 'er and named after Pu 'er House. Six tea mountains are recorded in historical records, and the ancient "six tea mountains" are the oldest tea mountains and tea areas in China. Due to historical changes, it is not easy to accurately locate their geographical location. Whether there is no tea planting in other places except the six major tea mountains, so that there will be a saying that "Pu 'er does not produce tea", according to the investigation of many scientific workers over the years, we can draw such a conclusion: First, besides the six major tea mountains, there are not only scattered production areas, but also main production areas, such as Lancang Jingmai, which has thousands of acres of artificially planted ancient tea forests and a history of growing tea for thousands of years. Second, in addition to the six major tea mountains, there is a larger scope for producing Pu 'er tea leaves. According to the official records of Pu 'er in Qing Dynasty, "Pu 'er is one of the six major tea mountains, and there are hundreds of thousands of people who go into the mountains to pick tea." At that time, the annual output of tea was 80,000 tons, and only 50,000 tons of tea were transported from Pu 'er to Tibet in A.D. 16 1 year, while 800 tons were not needed in the six ancient tea mountains. Due to the ancient production level and population density, it is absolutely impossible for the six ancient tea mountains to produce 80 thousand tons a year, and there is not so much labor force. To achieve the production scale of "hundreds of thousands of tea makers in the mountains", we can concentrate the production capacity of Ninger County, Simao Hall, Weiyuan Hall, Tanlang Hall and Che Xuan Health Department under the jurisdiction of Pu 'er House at that time. Therefore, the scope of "800 miles a week, hundreds of thousands of people go into the mountains to make tea" is Simao and its surrounding area. Only this range can reach the production capacity of "80,000 tons of Pu 'er tea per year" in Qing Dynasty. Thirdly, the territory of Pu 'er and its surrounding areas also have a long history of tea mountain cultivation. According to the investigation of many tea workers, there are 29 wild tea tree communities in 7 counties under the jurisdiction of Simao, with a total area of about 70,000 mu. The 2700-year-old wild ancient tea tree found by experts in Qianjiazhai, Jiujia Township, zhenyuan county is the oldest wild ancient tea tree king found in the world. Pu 'er is located in the southwest border of Yunnan, China, where the mountains are undulating, the streams are criss-crossing, the clouds are lingering, the rainfall is abundant, the climate is mild, and the soil is fertile, which has unique conditions for developing tea planting. Wild ancient tea trees, transitional ancient tea trees, cultivated or near-cultivated ancient tea trees and ancient tea forests are widely distributed in Pu 'er and surrounding counties (Jingdong, Jinggu, Zhenyuan, Lancang, Jiangcheng, etc. ). Pu 'er County has two thousand years of wild ancient tea trees, Lushan Mountain and Banshan Mountain. There are thousands of transitional ancient tea trees outside Lancang state; Huashan, Jinggu Yangta and Pu 'er Lushan have cultivated ancient tea trees for 400 years. Lancang Jingmai Mangjing has cultivated 10,000 mu of ancient tea garden for thousands of years, which is called the Museum of Ancient Tea Tree Cultivation by experts at home and abroad, and it is living evidence of the long history of large-scale tea planting in Pu 'er area. It shows that in the development and prosperity of Pu 'er tea, Pu 'er county and its surrounding areas have always been the origin of Pu 'er tea. At the same time, the history of tea production in Pu 'er Prefecture is well documented. According to the "Tea King Fu", Pu 'er tribute tea is the first to promote Ximen Camellia, and Ximen Mountain is also called Pu 'er Mountain and Tianbishan Mountain. According to historical records: "Pu 'er Mountain is located in Ning 'er County, Yunnan Province, and the tea produced in the mountain is warm and delicious, which is different from other products, so it is called Pu 'er tea", which is regarded as a tribute by Taoist officials and called "the crown of thousands of teas". In addition, the second place is half camellia, which used to be camellia forest. In the tenth year of Yongzheng in Qing Dynasty (A.D. 1732), tea farmers in Mid-levels rebelled in succession because of the oppression of the government. After the Qing government sent the Qing army to wash the blood in the Mid-Levels, the tea farmers in the Mid-Levels were suppressed by the Qing army and the tea trees were cut down. In the future, Pu 'er tea farmers will mainly focus on tea processing and distribution, because processing and trade can get higher profits, and the production of raw materials for Pu 'er tea will be transferred to other places around, which shows that the statement that Pu 'er tea is not produced in Pu 'er cannot be established. The production scope of Pu 'er tea should be a vast area including Pu 'er tea and six tea mountains. Pu 'er tea, which originated in the Qing Dynasty and was listed as tribute tea when Pu 'er House was established, has developed greatly since then. Judging from the historical evolution of the establishment of Pu 'er, from ancient Pu 'er to Yuan Dynasty, there was neither an independent government nor a place name of Pu 'er. In the 16th year of Hongwu in Ming Dynasty (AD 1383), the name "Pu 'er" was used. During the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty (A.D. 1573- 1620), it was renamed "Pu 'er". In the third year of Emperor Kangxi in the Qing Dynasty (AD 1664), Pu 'er established Yuanjiang Branch to administer Simao and Pu 'er, etc. 13 Banna. In the seventh year of Yongzheng (A.D. 1729), Pu 'er House (located in present Pu 'er County) was established after the implementation of "changing soil into water". So, which places are under the jurisdiction of Pu 'er Prefecture? According to the new situation of counties in Yunnan, "In the seventh year of Yongzheng in the Qing Dynasty (A.D. 1729), Pu 'er House was established, 1 County 1 Sisan Hall, namely Ninger County (now Pu 'er County), Simaotang (now Cuiyun District), Weiyuantang (now Jinggu) and Talang. Qianlong, Daoguang and Guangxu successively set up three zhili halls, namely, JD.COM, Zhenyuan and Zhenbian. Among them, Lian Zhen Zhili Hall governs Lancang, Ximeng and Menglian counties and parts of Shuangjiang and Cangyuan. It can be seen that according to today's administrative divisions, Pu 'er area mainly includes Simao City, the whole territory of Xishuangbanna Prefecture and parts of Lincang. Most areas of Pu 'er Prefecture belong to the area under the jurisdiction of today's Simao City, and Pu 'er Prefecture is also in today's Pu 'er County. In the long river of history, Pu 'er tea has been spreading and developing outward with Pu 'er as the center. At the same time, the ancestors applied diligence, wisdom and labor skills to tea production. In the long-term production and living activities, under the promotion of commodity trade, they make full use of the unique advantages of Yunnan big-leaf tea trees, and after thousands of years of development, they are famous at home and abroad. Pu 'er tea is of high quality and pure taste, which has established the historical position of Pu 'er tea.