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The difference between professional baking and home baking Zhihu
Today, when I saw that this product was actually on the homepage of Zhihu, I quickly came to confess my guilt after non-stop sadness. Writing the first edition of this post was really just a spur of the moment. Seeing that a blogger whom I always admired was hit by this post, I overreached myself to write what I knew. The shortcoming is of course the number of Ganges sands. Welcome to point out. The illustrations in this paper are collected by individuals from food blogs, and there are links to the author in the pictures. If you are interested in the products, please click the links to see the original author's blog.

From the content, a topic that was originally discussed about home baking and professional baking was digressed by me, Wan Li (it was written by me as a baking factory, and I wondered if it was because people liked to read the articles that exposed the black, and you had a better life reading the Sun than the Times). But this turned out to be the most favorable answer? ! It's really a waterfall sweat. Up to now, I have been very nervous at the sight of the increase in the affirmative vote, for fear of misleading others. That's really a sin to redeem the sweat. My answer is just about what I know about professional baking and home baking in China. If some answers from upstairs were blind before, then this is Ye Er Yang, and they are all the same.

As a person who has worked in a well-known chain cake shop for four years (just sweating in winter and summer vacations), there are n friends engaged in this industry (factory). In daily work, I often contact pseudo-professionals in professional factories and so-called baking amateurs to talk about what I know in a limited way for beginners. Because of my limited knowledge, I don't know much about it, such as the high-end blue ribbon version of Mi Qiqi's classmate, and the lowest-end bakery in the community and on the street (the products are all flavors and flavors)

Among the answers to the questions, Mi Qiqi's answer is even more beneficial. Seeing her answer often reminds me of reading the book "Go to Paris to bake a macaroon" before, but, just, ahem, like <; < Teenagers here > > People who spit in the room, like Wang Yuyan, shoot brochures, but the real situation on campus is mostly silly aunts. Personal contact with Beijing (dare not say China, for example, Shanghai's professional baking and home baking are much more developed than Beijing) baking industry is still rare, and Lan Xiang is mostly yelling. I recommend reading two posts on Douban.

Hell Kitchen-Challenge the hotel's crazy overtime and baking training-Do you want to go abroad? Quote a paragraph from it: As for training courses in China, I participated in a training course. Then, I finally learned that Mu Si can be made of mousse powder, tiramisu can be made of tiramisu powder, the pattern of marble cheese can be painted with chocolate fragrance, the cake can be fluffy and stable with cake oil, and milk fragrance powder can make dough or cake smell particularly fragrant ... I don't want to generalize, after all, I only know a training institution in depth, but But then again, the training you received may not be the best, and it will be different from your psychological expectation, but it can make up for my shortcomings more or less. For example, it at least let me know the general steps of making bread and learn more about the other side of the baking market. However, in such a non-strict standard training institution, while accepting the advantages of institutional teaching, we must also adhere to our own principles. Therefore, I didn't fully attend the course for three months, maybe less than two months. After thinking that I had acquired the knowledge I wanted, I applied to suspend the course.

Well, although I haven't attended this kind of domestic training class personally, all the production R&D personnel I have come into contact with are from this kind of training class. The table says that workers are dear. For example, some workers' daily work content is to put the toast blanks from the assembly line in toast box, take down the bread baked on the grill and put it on the packaging machine assembly line, and put the snacks produced by the moon cake machine on the baking tray. You don't think this can be used for training. Of course, the boring work content and low wages caused by zero technical level are also the main reasons for the large flow of workshop personnel.

Therefore, I admire everyone who really likes baking and strives to pursue their dreams, such as Mi Qiqi, a classmate upstairs. However, as an idealist who has hit a wall everywhere, I personally say that if one day, you return to China and engage in related work, don't be sad because of the harsh reality. Because, because sometimes there is a certain distance between ideal and reality, for example, studying top bakers professionally, all the raw material money is included in the tuition fee, so we don't have to consider the cost when making, but, however, we learn our beloved baking to pursue our dreams, but the boss doesn't. He is looking for the biggest profit at the lowest cost.

Of course, the products produced by the big hotel and factory are relatively confident, because he can't smash his own signboard. If the cakes produced by Kempinski bakery (I heard that many foreigners buy cakes at half price after eight o'clock every day) are the same as those in the vegetable market, can there still be business?

To maintain the operation of an enterprise (factory, restaurant bakery, chain bakery), or to make profits continuously, it is necessary to have a dedicated heart and exquisite skills, but it can't be relied on only these. Therefore, Wu Baochun is going to study for an MBA, and Taiwan Province University refuses to accept him because he is really good at making bread, but he may not be so proficient in personnel management, cost control and financial management.

So maybe a blue ribbon high flyers who came back from France went to China to work in baking and saw all kinds of essences, pigments, preservatives and additives every day. It's really that the world outlook is going to collapse, so now many tasteful dessert shops and coffee shops (such as Wencheng Zone in Shichahai and Nanluoguxiang in Beijing) are all opened by returnees themselves. Of course, some of them are successful in pursuing their dreams, and some of them are successful. After all, the rent is too expensive now. Look at the bookstore that Xu Zhiyuan opened in Yuanmingyuan before. Later, he also hid his face. Now he went to Blue Harbor. It was because Blue Harbor took a fancy to his brand and offered three years' rent-free. % $ # @, of course, I think privately that he may not make money for labor, water, electricity and energy. Isn't that money sweat? Of course, it's a bit far-fetched. I suggest interested students refer to Tzu-I Chuang's < Anthropologist in the kitchen >: In chapter 13, it's not easy to open a restaurant in chapter 17! We can get a glimpse of the hardships of food practitioners through the real version of the story of working in the hotel kitchen and the story of the collapse of the idealistic chef who opened the shop.

Origin:

I. Equipment and raw materials (cost first)

1, a long explanation.

In this paper, the individual divides the bread for sale into two types: large-scale factory production and relatively small-scale bakery (restaurant bakery and chain bakery). Personally, I also think that the author of the professional western pastry chef who answered questions for everyone before is the second kind, and belongs to the superstructure. The author only talks about what he knows about the middle and lower floors (middle-level high-end bakery and large-scale factory on the lower floor) in the professional baking market.

1, professional and amateur feeding.

Home bakers are pure amateurs and pure interests. It is almost inevitable that they like everything at first. From the raw materials of butter, flour (high gluten and low gluten), sugar, yeast, eggs, even molds, oiled paper, tin foil, fixed assets of chef machines, bread machines, egg beaters, ovens, there are a lot of big guys waiting for you with four-digit prices, such as Japanese imported fermentation boxes, American imported chef machines, air dryers and so on. At home, a large box of molds is an entry-level standard configuration. Only a large cabinet of background cloth, cups and dishes for taking photos dares to say that they have started a food blog. The molds of Googoo Goo Hof, Kelilu and macaroon should at least have a set of silicone and a set of non-stick ones. Of course, at least they are Lekui, Beiyin, and like me, they can be regarded as Chinese New Year. All foreign trade stores are embarrassed to say hello to others.

On the contrary, professional baking enterprises are relatively simple. Quadruple Toast Mould makes all kinds of toast. Of course, most of them are made in China. They don't know if Beiyin is good. The problem is that it is expensive, hot stoves, tunnel furnaces, various production lines and all kinds of raw materials. Call the manufacturers to ask for goods and wait for the delivery truck.

Of course, there is too much to talk about in the production of raw materials, not to mention the overall environment, but only the cost. From a certain point of view, the cost is the foundation of a manufacturer's livelihood, and the brand is just the basis for you to sell at a higher price than others.

Whoever runs a factory is not running a porridge factory, and being an enterprise is not doing charity. Without profit, everything is a cloud. N years ago, I interviewed Lee Kum Kee's boss. He once spoke out about the product prices of mainland seasoning enterprises, and implicitly said, "It's a cheap price, but we can't do it at this price." At that time, we were just curious that his family asked family members not to divorce, and if they divorced, they would cancel the family rule of property inheritance. I didn't listen to the deep meaning of General Li's words, and as a result, Sudan Red happened in less than two years. Only then did I realize that cost is really a constant business theme.

So why don't those small manufacturers dare to eat? Because big manufacturers have strict supervision for their brands, the export is relatively reassuring and the management is still strict.

Some students listed disinfection and sterilization, hats and masks in the production process of large factories. . . . . Wait, but the gap between the scene and the reality during the visit is basically the same as the bedroom in the home magazine and the bedroom in real life.

There are many reasons for this. First of all, how difficult it is to recruit people in various factories now. For example, I often deal with a large foreign-funded factory in Tongzhou because the local government helps to recruit (a large taxpayer). According to my best friend's friendship, recruiting people in the workshops of several baking enterprises in Daxing Development Zone is really like a spring breeze, always recruiting people and leaving people (like Foxconn Khan), and the production workshop has long working hours and labor. I have to work shifts (morning and evening shifts), often work overtime on holidays, it is difficult to rest during the Mid-Autumn Festival and Spring Festival, and so on. That is enough to constitute a high-intensity flow of personnel. According to my best friend in quality control, every time I go to ask for instructions from the vice president of production, I always see a group of people waiting to resign at her door, which is really out of line with the petition office.

Having said all this, it's not about the inside story of the factory. Under such a spring breeze and flowing flow of people, newcomers have to train and learn, and they have to go through a process from birth to maturity, so it's not surprising that the product quality is unstable and the regulations are not implemented properly (such as the prescribed actions of hand washing and disinfection). Well, if you insist on believing in the contents of those corporate propaganda films and brochures to the end, a large famous enterprise will shoot them. The protagonist is my best friend. From washing hands to disinfection, she made a guest appearance in all places where she wanted to face. I have also seen that film, which is really high-end atmosphere, although the authenticity is relatively weak.

2. All kinds of agents we ate in those years.

Let's talk about food first. One of my girlfriends graduated from N University. She works in a large factory for quality control, and also manages the regular testing of products. The products of large factories are relatively guaranteed. Every time the products are sent for testing, there is no problem, but once she was called back. What? Purple potato stuffing. What's the problem? The quality problem. To be honest, the laboratory put too much starch in this stuffing and forgot to put purple potatoes. The next leader of Shenma was furious, cursed the manufacturer and made rectification within a time limit, which was irrelevant to the theme, needless to say. Under the arrangement of flowers, I go to the supermarket every Mid-Autumn Festival to see the moon cakes of various manufacturers. Why can the price of a lotus seed cake be more than ten times worse than that of a small manufacturer? Cost, cost.

Ok, starch as stuffing or something, although it's a bit funny, at least starch can be considered as ingestible particulate matter. The upstairs said that even if there are additives in the raw materials, there is limited agreement, and then I will explain. (Please read the following words word by word.) However, we didn't use bread improver, cake oil, essence, pigment, preservative and foaming agent. The following ten thousand words are omitted.

Some people know that the common carmine should actually be cochineal, which is extracted from a bug. Although this is all natural, there are n friends around me who know that they will never eat all red or near-red food in the future. Women are really troublesome.

Some people know that the common cheap baking powder in the market contains aluminum, right? What, you said it was expensive, but it doesn't contain aluminum, dear, do you think the factory will use that kind? Cost, cost.

Someone knows the harm of bread improver, cake oil and emulsifier to human body, but you don't. Well, go by yourself.

Does anyone know that domestic butter is much more than imported butter additives?

Some people know that the factory produces all kinds of cakes with margarine, which is the legendary margarine. The one upstairs said that the recipe for baking books started with how many grams of Maiqilin was written. I'm sorry, and I don't have much reading. Up to now, I have only collected a small number of baking books from China, but none from Japan, Europe, America, Hong Kong and Taiwan, mainly because I can't afford it and can't understand it. The total height was originally waist-high, and after some rough and refined, the existing height is knee-high. In my limited books, I have never seen such a off-line prescription.

Natural butter (animal butter) is unstable and not easy to use, but I personally recommend this speaker to read the blogs of two great gods, love and freedom, and Texas farmers, which contain N detailed expositions, some of which can be read as professional papers. I have also seen an admirable longitudinal analysis chart in a Boli who manages materials, which reminds people that the R&D personnel I have seen are all muddling along. There are really several interviews that I asked. The most shocking one was a visit to a production supervisor, who recommended a new bread of his own, similar to Stolen's, and I praised it a few words (in fact, it is much less than the fruit made by myself, and it is so embarrassing to say that it is called Christmas fruit package. The director said, is it called ice seed? Me? @! #$%& Therefore, some people upstairs really don't be too superstitious about the production of large factories. When I interviewed the bosses of various enterprises, I really had an appointment time. When I pushed the door in, the boss was scolding the R&D director for being useless.

I also went to an interview, just in time for the boss of the enterprise to check and accept the newly-made gold bricks made by R&D personnel. The two gold bricks were exactly the same. The boss told me to taste them and take a bite. One was fragrant, and the other was ordinary. As a result, the boss told me that the fragrant one used margarine, which was right, which was trans fatty acid. The classmate congratulated you on your correct answer, but the one that didn't perform well was imported natural. I only interviewed the boss once, and I don't know what she did afterwards, but when I read the label of bread in the supermarket, most of the ingredients list said vegetable butter. Well, you know.

It's the same boss who once caught up with her and cursed the production supervisor, who was a man of 118 meters in the northeast. At that time, he was also anxious and asked the boss directly to make sure that the products were easy to handle. There were 4 yuan a catty of jujube paste and 40 yuan a catty. Which one do you want? I didn't know she used that. I sweated for a long time.

Some students said that many things can only be made by professional baking. Well, personally, there are only a dozen bread production processes in factories, and the middle point is mainly imported stuffing machines, mainly from Japan, which are cheaper than those in Europe and America and more durable than those made in China. In the production of cakes, the batter is poured into the mold, and the cake oil must be put. You can see a lot of cake oil packaging debris in the garbage area (big factories are specialized in garbage areas, you can understand it). You can imagine the dosage. This thing is healthy or not. Baidu will know it. Ignore the above advertisement, why do you think you can know? Everyone who has made cakes at home knows the importance and difficulty of egg delivery. Well, we make a small cake at home, and the weight is limited, but what about factory production? The daily output of a best-selling single product may reach 1000 (kg), and the eggs are beaten pot by pot? What should I do if I can't fight? What should I do if the foam disappears when I transport it from the dough mixing area to the production area or bake it in the furnace? Ok, that's why there are so many stabilizers in Mao factory food. (Come to a section of Dongdong: cake oil, also known as cake emulsifier or cake foaming agent, plays an important role in the production of sponge cake. At the beginning of 1980s, when making sponge cakes in China, there was no cake oil added, which was very slow in passing time, with low yield, rough structure of finished products and serious egg smell. Later, cake oil was added, and the whole process of making sponge cake only took 8-10 minutes, the yield was greatly improved, the cost was also reduced, and the baked finished product was even and delicate, and the taste was soft. You can look at the ingredient list on the popsicle packaging. Emulsifier is wood-based, regardless of Shenma's corporate conscience and profit cost, mass production is different from low-dose production.

This problem will be encountered in professional baking in reality, dear, which one do you use? Indeed, an amateur may have no skills, but she has energy. If a product can't be done well over and over again, she will buy raw materials that are expensive and easy to buy. Didn't many people say that baking is worse than playing SLR? Look at the picture below. Can you see that this is handmade by an amateur?

3, mass production and small production

Originally, it was called mass production and manual production, but domestic bakeries, foreign capital, joint ventures and private enterprises are included. Due to the reasons of space and capital investment, bread and cakes are mainly made by hand. Here, I will talk about the difference between a large number of cakes and a small number of cakes.

Taiwan Province's Wu Baochun, as you all know, is now opening a bakery in Kaohsiung, which is considered as an overseas Chinese in the bakery industry. But you can also see from Baidu that his masterpiece, Longan Bread with Wine, sells only 300 pieces a day, which is hunger marketing? No, this is the difference between a machine and a manual, or the difference between a factory and a bakery.

If anyone has seen <; < The food revolution > > In this documentary, I will remember that there is an episode about the daily food supply in new york (episode III, 24 million meals: feeding New York), and one quarter of the content is about bread making. Many of the bread production scenes, the bakers began to work hard at three o'clock at night. Why, many processes have to be made by hand, such as cutting dough, wrapping stuffing and so on. Of course, if you have seen Korean dramas & < Bread Wang Jinzhuo asks > > In the previous episodes, there was a scene of making bread in the middle of the night, which was similar. Although this drama festival was really ridiculous, I couldn't afford to be hurt. The whole story was full of stories of men and women, and there was nothing to do with making bread. One netizen spoke out that the only thing I learned was to put a glass of water when the bread was woken up in the oven. Nima knew whether it was good or not when I first made bread.

And that Japanese movie <; < Corner foreign fruit shop > > It's also the story of the cake house. Although the plot is enough, the plot of the middle cake decoration is still true.

Well, cut the crap (because I've been talking about it). Even if we haven't worked in a bakery, we can basically understand their daily operation through these clips. However, I can say that the factory is different from this, completely different, really different, and I've read some blog posts written by experts to visit the * * factory. I won't say if it's a soft article. I'll borrow the title of that book <; < Do you think what you think is what you think? > > A small partner who works as a public relations supervisor in this kind of enterprise has talked with me a lot about the hard work of this kind of reception work and the things behind this kind of industrial tourism, so it's not surprising that his family broke the news that rotten fruit was used to make juice. Another colleague was surprised to say, ah, it turns out that his family's juice was really made of fruit. Well, this colleague has been doing in-depth research and writing reports for many years, which is a little bit of sunglasses (always looking at the world with that kind of eyes).

This difference also exists in factory production and bakery production. For Mao An, take the longan bread brewed with the treasure of Wu Baochun Town Store as an example. Because it is handmade and the quality and quantity should be guaranteed, it can only sell 300 pieces a day, and the production capacity is here. If this product is to be produced mechanically, the product formula must be adjusted according to the characteristics of the machine (I interviewed the R&D director of a joint venture baking enterprise, and their daily work is to develop bread according to the character of the machine), and whether the product can reach the manual level remains to be determined. Why do you say this for Mao? Because if the machine can produce 30,000 Jin, and there is a market (judging from the posture in the news report, there really is), I believe he would have done so long ago.

Therefore, by extension, the bread produced by the big factories you saw in the supermarket for Mao is all silly and simple, not as varied as those in the bakery. (Well, I heard that several chain bakery in Beijing are all distributed by central factories and become different varieties under the decoration of the store, which is to be tested.) That's because labor is expensive (a worker's salary, bonus and insurance are not small). Everything that can be done by machines is done by machines, and when developing varieties, we try our best to do it.

Take the familiar braided bread as an example, regardless of whether it's three strands or five strands, you need to weave it by hand, and you can't use the machine, Shenma garland bread, etc. You may feel very freehand while listening to music at home, but the factory, early in the morning, looked at the title board (the whiteboard marking the daily output of the production workshop), and the braided bread weighed two thousand kilograms. At that time, it was a cry, and this thing was called "no work" in jargon. You have worked so hard for a bunch of people to make a hundred catties of toast, which is enough for several people to easily get a few hundred catties of toast out. This few hundred catties is still a conservative estimate. For the sake of Mao, the toast production line is used. I was really curious when I first heard about this artifact, mainly because I couldn't understand how the rolling process of making toast could not be omitted was realized by machine. Later, by chance, I wrote a manuscript for a new product of a company and was really approved to see the machine. After a brief understanding, I think that the machine imitates the manual work. Of course, you have to say that the strength and accuracy of the rolling are indeed different from that of the manual work, but the machine saves effort, dear. It is really a matter of throwing the dough into the machine and waiting for the toast (of course, it is not baked) at the other end.

So we sometimes see a group of people busy in front of the case in those open (with large transparent glass) bakery, so we have to understand that the manual strength of many kinds of bread in bakery is quite strong, so there are not children's shoes engaged in this kind of work saying that they are very tired at the end of the day. Understandable, students who don't understand can go to see the documentary I mentioned above, and you will know how labor-intensive the bakery is. The douban post under the premise: everything is a brand-new experience. I remember that on the afternoon of the third day of induction training, I was taken to the bakery. Annie, a female chef who has been working for more than 20 years, came out to meet me. She told me, "What you learned in chain baking enterprises is basically not used here, and we work in a completely different way." Later, she introduced me to foreign chef. I didn't expect Chef's first sentence to give me a shot. He said, "You should be mentally prepared, because it is the Beijing Auto Show and you have to work overtime until evening1. I thought to myself that I would give anything to do this job, so why worry about it? So I confidently promised that I would never slack off and be ready to fight at all times. The hotel where I stayed has a high occupancy rate, and there are too many banquets and takeout, so working overtime is almost crazy. I live in the East Fourth Ring Road. I get up at 5: 30 every day and go to the hotel for breakfast at 6: 30. I officially go to work at 7: 00. Before 9: 00, I get the pastry and cake in the gourmet shop, and before 10: 00, I get the afternoon tea dessert ready. After lunch, I start preparing the semi-finished dessert for the next day. Okay, it's 4: 00. Is it time to get off work? However, there are banquets and takeout the next day! Ok, let's continue to make dessert together. It's almost 22: 23 when we do it, and it's almost 24: 00 when we get home. After washing and sleeping, we will continue to get up at 5: 30 the next day, following the cycle. There were two takeaways at around 0/2 o'clock in the evening and lasted until 3 o'clock in the morning. After returning to the hotel to clean up the stall, I thought I had to get up at 5: 30 when I got home. Forget it, sleep in the staff lounge for 3 hours and get up and continue working.

Transferred from Zhihu Yeshi