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What kind of jewelry is it? Even the Rothschild heirs have to look for it in the stall.

autumn and winter of chanel 22

in autumn and winter of 22, Chanel has another batch of jewelry made by maison gripoix to be released. Whether it's earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings, this season's accessories such as belts, brooches and leather goods are also covered with shiny and bright colors maison gripoix for house of chanel.

chanel autumn and winter 22

Those familiar with Chanel will know that maison gripoix is a workshop, which was acquired by house of chanel in 25. Besides chanel, they also serve brands including Guerlain, tom ford and schiaparelli. These artificial jewels can take up to 1 hours to make, but it's worth it. They can be the most shining place in the whole body.

This tweet is an extended reading at the end of Vivienne Westwood: Punk Old Lady Princess's Heart.

In the 19th century, the Rothschild family combined Britain, France and Austria to create a new aesthetic, le gout rothschild, which has not been translated in China. Literally, it is "Rothschild taste", which represents the extreme complexity of modern times.

Extremism has been prevalent in ancient times and modern times. In the past, there was a romantic word called cabinet of curiosities, which was also regarded as the embryonic form of Baroque. Especially in ancient times, people filled their rooms with specimens, works of art and animal skeletons-in Google Art's words, cabinets of museums were a bit weird and spectacular.

frans ii francken painted a corner of the room in 1636

Later, French rococo was richer and bolder than Baroque in color. Together with the art nouveau in Austria and the rich family of Rothschild, le gout rothschild was formed. The Rothschild family once unified the banking industry and once developed into five factions. Le gout rothschild influenced other big families in the world, including Astor family in real estate, Vanderbilt family in shipping and Rockefeller family in oil industry, which sounded like the crisp sound of gold coins hitting.

In the 19th century, two things happened to the Rothschild family. One was that Anseur Rothschild died in Germany, and his son had long been tired of opening a bank. After inheriting his father's fortune, he came to Oxfordshire, England, and began to build his own le gout rothschild empire according to his own ideals, which is now Wardsden Manor.

At the same time, family members are committed to collecting gem necklaces, among which the bigger the colorful treasure, the better, including Renaissance gems and shellfish jewelry. A large number of unparalleled treasures owned by the family are now displayed to the public in the British Museum and Wardsden Manor respectively.

Nicole Kidman in Wardsden Manor

In history, le gout rothschild also had a stage of jumping on the street-in 1957, almost a century after the manor was built, as the British hated French home decoration, Wardsden Manor was also criticized as "ugly to the peak". By the way, there is also le gout rothschild in the fashion field, which is the Saint Laurent we are familiar with. His and his partner's home is arranged in strict accordance with le gout rothschild.

Mr. Saint Laurent's home in Paris

Ms. Hannah Rothschild was born and raised in England. She is a trustee of the British National Gallery, studying art while writing and making movies. As a frequent visitor to fashion parties, she is the unswerving successor of le gout rothschild. Since the 199s, Hannah herself has been looking for 19th century jewels in the market.

In 1995, she found a necklace of flame lilies in a flea market in Paris-this necklace consists of a string of flame lilies native to Africa with two green leaves. Lily petals are edged with silver, and the stamens are golden yellow. Warm and bright, you only need this single item to make a boring evening dress shine. This necklace is from the cooperation series of maison gripoix and Ms. Chanel.

maison gripoix for chanel, 1869

this necklace was also exhibited in the metropolitan museum in 213

it was not expensive at that time (Ms. Hannah's original words, but how expensive was it when she said it was not expensive? ), but it is hard to find. For ten years, she only collected five similar jewels in stalls and flea markets ...

These jewels are man-made, but they are not ordinary man-made ...

The traditional wax-lost method is a casting method, which has been used in bronze casting in ancient China. The statue plate of the tomb of Zeng Houyi is the most praised, and the dense flat patterns on it are exquisite and exquisite, which is made by lost wax method. This casting method is not popular enough, which is related to the limited amount of beeswax and the complicated production. Lost wax method is generally used to cast products with very complicated three-dimensional structure, which can not be competent by common mold combination method. Wax loss method firstly carves the product to be cast (wax pattern) with wax material mixed with beeswax, rosin and butter, and then pours mud washed by clay on the wax pattern, and scatters quartz sand, broken plant fiber, sawdust (sawdust residue) and so on. When it is dry, pour the mud mixed with clay and yellow mud, and then sprinkle sand. After repeatedly making the mold shell outside the wax mold, take the mold shell to the fire for heating. When heated, the wax melts into a liquid state and is lost from the mold shell. After that, the mold shell is sintered (it can't be vitrified, so the sintering temperature generally does not exceed 8℃), and then molten metal liquid is poured into the mold shell for casting. (Excerpted from wikipedia)

maison gripoix himself admits that its raw materials are "low-cost"

Because the process has never changed, it is particularly time-consuming

In Paris in the 196s, a young Parisian craftsman named Angustin Glip used this ancient method to burn colorful colored glass and ceramics, which were pure, transparent and took into account the colors. She quickly attracted the actress Sarah Benhard at that time. The actress not only wore the stage performance, but also happily recommended it in the sister circle. Soon, Greep's studio was full of royal family members and wives of high-class ladies who were eager to pin her colored glass on her hat and fur.

In 192, Angustin handed the workshop to his daughter Susan, and Susan also noticed the changes in fashion of young French girls-they cut their hair short and put on short skirts. They prefer bling bling jewelry to diamonds. Susan began to adjust the design of maison gripoix, and soon she attracted the attention of Ms. Lang Fan and Ms. Chanel.

Ms. maison gripoix

Chanel's hand-painted remarks about jewelry published in vogue in 1937 must have been familiar-"It doesn't need to be genuine, just shocking", and there are more radical ones, such as "hanging a bunch of expensive jewelry around her neck, it's better to stick money all over her body" ... She has a handful of gold and silver jewelry given to her by her ex-boyfriend and past lovers. She simply asked Susan to "make an engraving according to these" and said, "Let others think it's old things dug up in the construction site near Kang Peng Street."

so in terms of time, not only maison gripoix has a longer history, but also the cooperation between the graep family and the house of chanel is ahead of the cooperation between the duke of verdura and her. They will also cooperate with each other in three ways, such as this 5' s brooch, which was designed by Duke Verdura and polished by maison gripoix. Because it is too old to know what it is, some people guess it is a flame. Looking at a brooch with chin cupped is like archaeology.

maison gripoix for house of chanel in 197s, 198s and 199s

The Glip family has been cooperating with the house of Chanel for a long time, from fake pearls made of glass, artificial metals to semi-rare colored treasures, diamonds and colored glasses, and they have developed various possibilities of these artificial jewels with design and technology. Now it is said that there are only two craftsmen left in maison gripoix?

chanel 22 autumn and winter

Of course, if you can find maison gripoix for balenciaga and maison gripoix for christian dior in the street stall again, Maison gripoix for Yves Saint Laurent, Maison gripoix for Christian Lacroix and maison gripoix for balmain are even rarer, and they were all clients of Maison gripoix.

since the 199s, there have been more and more cheaper artificial glass jewelry outside France. Today's maison gripoix, its design is becoming more concise, which may be the reason why the le gout rothschild school like Ms. Hannah is only interested in medieval models. I just think that in 22, I will not choose poverty wind or frigidity wind, and the more gloomy the day may be, the more I need atmospheric and complicated decorations to arm myself. If you want to buy maison gripoix, there are physical stores in Paris, and flowers are always the best choice for maison gripoix.

Of course, Fei has always worn these flowery glass beads, and it is not impossible for bold male students.

With the rise of online websites, Ms. Hannah no longer has to look hard at the stalls. She began to buy maison gripoix and maison gripoix for chanel's medieval jewelry online, but most of them failed: some of them were completely out of size, and even some were fakes, and a lot of money was wasted.

not every seller on the internet will show the back of these medieval jewels-but it is exactly what I find interesting: you can see the "original" completely different from its front, which is the best mark handed down by ancient handwork so far.

for young people who want to collect medieval jewels, especially maison gripoix and maison gripoix for house of chanel, Ms. Hannah has something to say-

a) Don't use them as value-added tools, you can't afford those maison gripoix for the British Museum;

b) Don't try to pass them on to the next generation. Translated, don't use "you can pass them on to your daughter" as an excuse to swipe your card when your mind is hot. Her own children have no interest in "minimalism" when they grow up, but they like "minimalism" like their grandmother every other generation. You see, your next generation may not like your collection;

c) Establish a seller relationship that you trust and make friends with the same hobbies. Ms Hannah, who no longer tries to pay tuition for online shopping, only recognizes a few sellers who are fixed in Paris, Morocco and new york, and she will also exchange things with fans through her circle of friends.

Calm down, the above seems to be the universal rules of consumption: buy what you like, find what you like, and close the webpage to find it. After all, the process of searching is more enjoyable than the five minutes of swiping a card, and each process is different. So I reflected on myself. It seems that I have never bought the same paragraph with pictures on my mobile phone, nor watched the live broadcast to buy goods.

I heaved a sigh of relief after hearing her finish.

END

coordinating | bumping into

typesetting | Huang Yelu

The above text is over. Unlock it and you will see some information about maison gripoix for house of chanel in auction houses and flea markets. You don't have to unlock it. Sotheby's and Christie's have public files to check at will.

Last year, on a whim, Ms. Hannah invited an expert from an auction house to estimate the value of her 6 collections, which surprised her.