At first, I was a little nervous. After all, it is white wine, but it is sweet, not choking or spicy, and very smooth.
Such a strong smell is just like the impression Mazu gave Luke.
Islander and A Bing brothers.
Mazu from Mawei, Fuzhou, takes only one and a half hours by boat, but people on both sides of the strait have to wait for 50 years. During the confrontation, Mazu was in the front line, and military buildings, underground tunnels, ports and strongholds with complex structures could be seen everywhere on the island. Although they were not baptized by the war, they were mysterious because of military control. Under this background, is the life of Mazu people as tough and harsh as sorghum?
With speculation, we boarded the Angie wheel and bumped all the way. When the passenger ship sailed into Mazu Fuao Port, the towering South Pole Fuqing Ridge came into view. The following is said to be the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Park. The white staircase looks like a white dragon winding on a huge rock, which is very eye-catching.
Get off the boat, go through the customs, and quickly browse the port, that is, board the passenger ship called "Xiaobai" by the locals, go to Beigan, and stop at Tangqi Village.
This is really a small village, with three streets, one horizontal and two vertical. All the streets are only 100 meters long, but there are houses, hotels, restaurants, post offices, convenience stores, bus stops, airports and even temples where local people worship. There is no name on the street, and the house number hanging on the door of every household directly reads "No". X Tangqi Village ". The permanent population of Beigan is about 1 10,000, and Tangqi Village is a concentrated population gathering area of Beigan. Because of the small population, it is already big news that there is a county magistrate candidate in the local area. Walking in the street, I saw a plaque hanging on the door of a family, which read a huge line-the only county magistrate candidate came from Beigan.
Let us stop, as well as commercial signs and local image posters. The sign in the restaurant says "Are you hungry?" Black Beauty Drinks Shop wholesales betel nut cold drinks, and the new motorcycle rental mainly attracts tourists. The snail painting activity was initiated by the local township office. In order to call on everyone to show the happiness of "I live slowly and eat slowly in the north", many posters were posted along the street. Walking in the street, the change of time and space, and the switch between traditional Chinese characters and simplified Chinese characters are all novel experiences.
Catch up with the first opening of Mazu Beigan Resting Pavilion. The concept of "simple sharing and happy extension" is very attractive. This special drink, which can last for three days, costs only NT$ 65,438, which attracts islanders and Ge to queue up to buy it.
The A Bing brothers are really a sight in the street, marching in camouflage uniforms. He should have come back from training. There are also soldiers in twos and threes who just have a holiday and go out for leisure shopping. He often appears in 7- 1 1 convenience store, and buys mostly snacks, lunches, magazines and daily necessities. In Mazu, there is a saying that there are more soldiers than islanders. In the past few decades, the Mazu people have brought the A Bing brothers into their lives, living in harmony and turning a blind eye. We are different. Sitting in a convenience store and drinking an iced latte seems leisurely and calm, but in fact we can't help but glance out of the corner of our eyes. After all, the A Bing brothers we saw in Taiwan Province movies are still alive. Finally, I started a conversation. I only asked how long I have been a soldier, where is my home, whether I want to go home, and so on, but I was surprised to find a shy expression on the dark face of the A Bing brothers when they answered. They are really young, and the acne on his face has no intention of revealing the secret of his age.
We arrive at noon. Except for the newly opened rest pavilion, the whole pond is quiet and there are not many people in the street. We thought the local people were taking a lunch break, but we never thought that peace was the normal state of Tangqi. Even the owner of the hotel only appeared to welcome us when we arrived, and it was breakfast the next day. I won't feel left out, because a clean bed, complete toiletries and a hearty breakfast in a beautiful lunch box can all show the intention of the hotel owner. This is a newly renovated hotel, and there are several similar hotels in Tangqi, which are said to have only recently appeared. In the past two years, tourism has developed and tourists have increased. Some Mazu people converted their houses into family hotels to receive tourists and increase their income, but the pace of life has not changed much.
Getting up at 5: 30 in the morning makes the street quieter. At the gate of the store, the truck driver is unloading the goods, and the supply is seafood and vegetables sold by stalls. The smell came from the snack bar. The proprietress was baking scallion cakes, and two soldiers were waiting beside her. At the entrance of the village, I met an aunt pushing a small scooter, which was a bag of mussels that had just been fished out of the sea.
Walk ten meters from the entrance of the village, and you will reach the seaside. On the delicate beach, the lines left by the waves are clear and neat, and the only ornament is the small sand pile left by crabs when they dig holes, which is dense and quite large. Further on, there is the sea. The sea is clear, the waves are gentle, and the sea breeze is blowing gently, with the coolness of early autumn. Looking back, it is the expressway around the island. The highway guardrail cuts the sky and the beach like a straight line. Sometimes a motorcycle passes by, only the rider's helmet and shoulders are exposed, which is very trainee.
Fortunately, I met an old gentleman who came back from morning exercise and talked all the way back to the village. The old man grew up in Mazu, started a business in Taipei and now invests in the mainland. Because of his successful career, his children have grown up, and he doesn't need to worry too much, so he can often go back to Mazu to stay. There are mountains and seas here, the air is good, and there are neighbors who have been familiar since childhood. The old man is very satisfied with his leisurely and convenient life. Get up early every day, take a walk in the nearby mountains, and then walk back along the seaside, which is comfortable and cozy.
After a few days of hearing and hearing, I found that this is the real Mazu: quiet and soothing. Decades of closure have made this island full of legends. The people on the island are firm in appearance, but warm in heart, just like their beloved sorghum wine, which is mellow and unforgettable under the strong atmosphere.
Mazu battlefield sightseeing
Walking in Mazu, watchtowers, outposts, military hospitals, military guest houses and other buildings can be seen everywhere. Signs of "military sites" are placed at many intersections, and outsiders are forbidden to enter at will. They hid in the training ground in the Woods, and from time to time came the sound of A Bing practicing. With the development of tourism, these islands full of military colors are gradually unveiled, and the local tourism department is also committed to creating an original battlefield tour to let tourists experience the battlefield customs, thus forming many battlefield sightseeing spots.
Beihai tunnel:
Mazu is an island with the densest military tunnels in the world. Beihai Tunnel is located on the iron coastline of Nangan Island. It is a well-shaped waterway that goes deep into the mountainside and runs through the rock wall. It took 820 working days to complete that year. During the confrontation, this tunnel was used as an underground pier. Now tourists can walk into this deep tunnel to have a look, and they can also take a canoe and experience boating in the unique tunnel.
War and Peace Memorial Park: The first museum park in Taiwan Province Province with the themes of "War and Peace" and "Moving and Remembering". Visitors shuttled through the former strongholds and experienced the military management history of Mazu for nearly half a century and the real life of the soldiers and civilians. The park is located in Dawo Mountain, Beigan Island. When the weather is clear, it can overlook the mainland coastline. Compared with the tense atmosphere of the opposite era, it is more interesting than the theme of "war and peace".
Sansan stronghold:
In the early battle deployment of Mazu Islands, the coastline was almost five steps, one post and ten steps, and each headland was built into a strong and solid military base. Sansan Shanzhai is located at the westernmost tip of Yinxi Island and is now open to the public.
Goddess and soul
Mazu, named after Mazu. According to legend, Lin Mo Niang, a Putian woman, threw herself into the sea to save her father and drifted to Nangantang with her father's body. The local residents buried her and built a temple to serve her. In memory of Mazu's filial piety, Nangantang was renamed Mazu Island.
This is a legend. According to historical records, the earliest development of Mazu began in the Yuan Dynasty, and it was a place for mainland residents to rest and shelter from the wind when they went fishing in the sea. It was occupied by the Japanese in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, and it was not until the early Qing dynasty that Fuzhou fishermen moved here, gradually forming a blood-related village.
In the early days, Fuzhou fishermen still made a living by fishing after arriving in Mazu. In the struggle against the wind and waves, Mazu became the patron saint in their hearts, thus forming Mazu belief. Ma Gang Tian Hou Temple in Nangan Island has become a concentrated place of worship for many Mazu believers, attracting many tourists to visit. On the top of the hill behind the Tianhou Palace, a statue of Mazu, the tallest stone sculpture in the world, stands quietly, looking at the undulating sea from a distance, towering, solemn and quiet against the background of blue sky and green trees. It is said that this statue is 29.6 meters high, representing the total area of Mazu is 29.6 square hectares. This statue consists of 365 granite stones, which means 365 days of peace. It took ten years before and after the statue was put forward and successfully built, which shows the local people's devotion to the belief of Mazu in Tianhou.
Tianhou Palace also provided another patron saint of sunken ships-the White Horse King. This common god on Mazu Island? It is said that they are from Fuzhou, and residents of each island either build temples to worship or worship at home, among which the most popular is the Baima Wang Zun Temple in Shanlong Village, the head of Nangan Island. Seven gods? Party is a major feature of the temple.
During my trip to Mazu, I met countless temples, or went to the temples to worship, enjoying the inner peace brought by the ceremony between kowtowing and looking up, or taking a quick look, content with climbing over the eaves, playing with Shuanglong pearls and even having a garage, but I didn't have time to see the title of the gods when I saw the unknown small temples hidden in the grass by the roadside. Before God, it is enough to have a heart, just like my grandmother I met in the quiet street of Tangqi Village at dawn that day. For decades, she got up early to worship, but never thought of finding out who Xiao Wang was. And Xiao Wang, still sitting in Wang Fu, is guarding the people on the island with Jesus in the church across the street.
Just as gods bring spiritual sustenance to people on the island, the popularity of gods in Mazu also comes from marine culture. In Mazu winery, we saw this explanation: "Mazu is located in the cape, and it is not easy to make a living. Most people live by fishing. They often make wine from glutinous rice, which is called "old wine". When Arabs' bellies are white, fishermen will cheer up with old wine, go fishing in the sea and come back tired. Dinner will be relaxed with old wine. "
In order to raise funds, Zhongxing Winery was established and later renamed Mazu Winery. Mazu winery enjoys a good reputation because it is brewed according to the ancient method. Among them, the famous Daqu, sorghum and aged wine are one of the accompanying gifts that must be purchased when visiting Mazu. At that time, the 88 tunnel used for military purposes was warm in winter and cool in summer, with stable temperature and humidity, which became the best wine storage space in Mazu winery. At the entrance of the tunnel, two rows of neat cans were welcomed by soldiers, which was very imposing. Walking in the deep tunnel, there are many jars, the fragrance of wine is ethereal, and there is time travel, which is another experience.
Although this trip did not reach Dongyin Island, there was no lack of charming taste of enjoying Dongyin wine on the table. Dong Jiao, located at 26 degrees and 23 minutes north latitude, is the same latitude as the three famous wines in Chinese mainland, namely Kweichow Moutai, Sichuan Wuliangye and Sichuan LU ZHOU LAO JIAO CO.,LTD, and it is most suitable for brewing liquor. Because the temperature, humidity, and even beneficial bacteria are just right here, and the water used is mountain spring water flowing from granite geology rich in medical stone, these are the factors that lead to good wine in the East. Gao Chen imported from the East is mellow but not spicy after a long period of low-temperature fermentation. Even if he has a hangover, he won't have a headache or dry mouth, so he enjoys a high reputation in Mazu, Taiwan Province Province and even Fuzhou.
Mazude wine flavor gourmet
Because Mazu is adjacent to Fuzhou, the food in the two places is very close. Many Fuzhou delicacies, such as fish balls and fried dumpling, can also be tasted in Mazu. Mazu people not only love drinking and are good at making wine, but also introduce unique wine-flavored food with wine as a dish.
Steamed yellow croaker with old wine:
This is almost a dish that Mazu people must order for every meal. Fresh yellow croaker, add a little ginger, a little garlic and a little salt, and then pour in Mazu old wine and steam it. After serving, the old wine fragrant fish floated up, refreshing and delicious. The taste of old wine is not spicy or choking, and it brews an elegant taste with delicious fish.
Eel with red vinasse:
Large eels caught from the sea are particularly elastic in meat and rich in subcutaneous fat. They are wrapped in red wine sauce and fried, and the gravy is tightly wrapped. Pick up a piece of fish and gently bite it open. Under the crispy red distiller's grains, fresh eel gravy will flow out, and wine will follow, making people want to eat it one after another.
Chicken soup with red distiller's grains:
Red fermented chicken soup not only tastes mellow, but also warms the body and promotes blood circulation, which is suitable for tonic in winter. Locals will also add an egg and a little flour thread to the chicken soup with red distiller's grains to help pregnant women sit on the moon.
Distiller's grains fried rice:
Dicing the distiller's grains and adding fresh ingredients such as onion, egg and shrimp skin to stir-fry rice not only makes the aroma overflowing, but also makes people's appetite greatly.
Settle down and be reborn
Mazu is steep. The car is walking on the island, rising and falling along the terrain. When it encounters a steep slope, it feels that the whole car has stood up, and the people in the car have no time to grab the handrail, and the car has begun to descend.
Therefore, we can only look around, unable to extend our sight to the front of the car, and unable to predict what landscape we are waiting for. When the car climbs to the top of the hill, our vision will suddenly widen, and the islands with blue sky and blue sea will face us, which will surprise people. The prestigious ancient settlement of Qinbi suddenly came.
Mazudo settlement. These prosperous villages are scattered in Mazu Islands. With the large number of people moving out, they left broken stone houses, lighthouses and seagulls alone. Occasionally, tourists or people returning home will stop and recall the glorious scenery of the fishing village in the past. Qinbi Village is one of the most representative buildings in eastern Fujian. "An Indian building has a square pattern with four slopes and five ridges. The external walls are made of granite stones unique to the local area, or stacked or built. The production process is simple but full of vitality, which outlines the resolute character of the island people who are not afraid of the harsh environment. " This is what I read in Walking in Taiwan Province Province before. In just a few words, the architectural style of Qin wall and the character of Qin wall people are outlined, and the legend of Pirate House is generally desirable.
Yes, this is the Qin wall! Surrounded by mountains and seas, stone houses are arranged in a ladder shape according to the mountain trend, and layers are scattered. In the meantime, the abrupt but interesting decorative slogan on the wall of the house, with the imprint of the era of confrontation, can not help but smile today. The grandmother who washes the pot at home, the flower cat who dozes off on the roof, and the little white dog wandering in the alley are all flowing and charming scenery against the granite. There is a stone house, very old, with only one wall left. The door panel on the wall disappeared, and the door frame became a veritable picture frame. The picture in the picture frame is just the sparkling sea in the distance, standing and staring quietly, which is quite a bit of the vicissitudes of the Parthenon in the Acropolis of Athens.
Suddenly, it becomes colorful and makes people shine. This is the master's elaborate decoration. The transformation of stone houses into homestays and cafes is entrusted by the local government, which also gives a new look to the vicissitudes of Qinbi settlement. After visiting the North Pole, I sat in the parasol courtyard outside, listening to the sound of the waves, watching the sky and the sky, watching the sunset and the stars all over the sky, and wrote the most romantic page for this trip.
Mazude personality minsu
Qinbi Mediterranean B&B:
The hotel is surrounded by mountains and seas, and the blue sky is connected with the vast seascape, giving people the illusion of being in the Mediterranean. The traditional stone house style in eastern Fujian, plus a piece of green grass in the side yard, combines modernity with classicism, and the Chinese style does not lose the European style. The hotel owner will not only personally go to Beigan Wharf to greet the guests staying in the hotel, but also tell the tourists how to spend the best time in Beigan, help consult gull-watching boats or fishing boats at sea, and provide Mazu-style Guang Qi cake and coffee for breakfast, which is both cordial and intimate.
Address: No.54, Qinbi Village, Beigan Township
Tel: 0886- 836- 566 1 1
No.25, Qinbi Village:
As a traditional granite stone house, looking out from the elegant small window of the guest room, the stone tiles in Qinbi settlement are beautiful, and with the design of skylight, you wake up in the scattered sunshine in the morning, which is comfortable and comfortable. There is also an invincible sea view outside B&B, which is simple and simple, but amazing everywhere.
Address: No.25, Qinbi Village, Beigan Township
Tel: 0886- 836- 55628
Niulan Su Min:
Niulan Su Min, with its stone house architecture, is favored by backpackers, not only because it is close to the pier and convenient in transportation, but also because its internal structure is full of artistic sense, and various books and works of art can be seen everywhere inside and outside the house. The host is hospitable and always communicates with the guests with the mentality of "making friends", which makes the backpackers feel particularly warm. At sunset, don't forget to have afternoon tea with friends on the second floor in the courtyard, enjoying the sea view of Nangan and the afterglow of the sunset.
Address: Fuxing Village, Nangan Township 124
Tel: 0886- 952- 26078
Jinsha Cultural Village:
The hotel has three buildings. The appearance of the guest house on the ancient street is the traditional architectural style in eastern Fujian, with stone walls stamped with granite and Australian-style Chinese houses made of wood. After climbing the winding stone steps, you will find the Guan Hai Mountain House adjacent to other Jinsha stone houses. On the second floor of the hotel, you will see the vast sea view of Mazu and the complete panorama of Jinsha settlement.
Address: No.71Jinsha Village, Nangan Township
Tel: 0886- 836-26 190