In the past few days, the news of "bloody meat buns" has been very popular again. Just looking at the literal meaning, the word "bloody neck" is indeed disgusting enough.

But if there are some good people who think that the disgusting-sounding "blood neck meat", the cheap "caotou meat" in the dialect, and the "pork neck meat" popular in restaurants in Guangdong and Hong Kong, are not all That piece of meat on the pig's neck?

Some people wrote an article specifically for this purpose, praising the cheapness and deliciousness of pork neck meat. As long as it is processed properly, there is no risk of consumption at all.

To be honest, as long as the lymph glands are cleaned, pork neck meat is indeed not as scary as the tabloid news said, but when it comes to "deliciousness", it is worth debating.

It is said that Emperor Sima Rui of the Jin and Yuan Dynasties preferred "a piece of crab on the item", and others did not dare to touch it. This is where the word "forbidden fish" comes from; Su Shi also wrote a poem praising: "Taste a piece of crab on the item, chew it "Frost's Two Claws." He felt that crab meat was the most delicious thing, just like crab claws.

But if you carefully compare the pork segmentation diagram, you will find that the pork neck meat, that is, the blood neck meat, should be "under the item" rather than "on the item" - Su Laotao's mouth is so cunning, he Of course there's no mistaking it. The meat on the neck should actually be shoulder and neck meat, which is commonly known as plum meat.

Once, I ate at Yung Kee on Wellington Street in Central, Hong Kong, and ordered a "charcoal-roasted pork neck", which made my memory particularly fresh. The caramel-colored meat has an almost dark brown skin, and is grilled until it is filled with fat and fragrant. Cut into thick slices as wide as your little finger, neatly arranged and look good.

Try a slice and you will see that there is still delicious juice in the meat. The biggest difference from most barbecue restaurants is that in addition to being flexible, this pork neck meat can actually have a little crispiness. It’s not the crispiness on the outside that comes from grilling, but the texture inside the meat.

In fact, knowledgeable gourmets know that this authentic Cantonese style charcoal grill will never use the commonly known pork neck meat, that is, pig neck meat or blood neck meat. Instead, the meat of the shoulder and neck is used, which is what Su Shi calls "the meat on the neck".

This piece of meat has all the advantages of Caotou meat: fat and thin, fragrant, waxy and oily. It also has advantages that Caotou meat does not have: clear texture, tender meat, and long-lasting cooking. The difference between it and tautoou pork is like the difference between bone-in pork belly and breast meat. The difference is a thousand miles.

Perhaps people with bad teeth prefer tenderloin as tender as tofu, but in the eyes of experts, the tender and crispy shoulder and neck meat is the most delicious part of a pig.

It goes without saying that Cantonese-style charcoal grilling is roasted with sugar and soy sauce. The fat flows out and the lean meat is crispy. It best reflects the advantages of shoulder and neck meat. It is also good to make honey-glazed barbecued pork. First use barbecued pork sauce and minced garlic, marinate the thickly sliced ??shoulder and neck meat and refrigerate it. Wait until it is completely flavored, then put it in the oven, turn over and brush with honey while roasting, and watch the meat slices. With a crackling sound, the rich aroma of barbecued pork will also float away. The White Swan Hotel in Guangzhou makes this dish very authentically. Pack up the endless slices of barbecued pork and take it home, cook a bowl of Yangchun noodles and cover it with a thick slice of barbecued pork. It is an unparalleled late-night snack.

Thai-style roasted pork neck is actually similar to the Cantonese style, except that heavy-flavored seasonings such as lemongrass and Thai pepper are added during the production process. After dipping in the Thai chili sauce, it is also delicious. It can be eaten sweet, spicy and smooth, and can remove the humidity in Southeast Asia.

Shandong people call shoulder and neck meat "plum meat", and this name is also used in many supermarkets. In fact, Shandong cuisine is indeed good at using green plums to cook shoulder and neck meat. I once had steamed pork with plums in a restaurant in Jinan. The good shoulder and neck meat was cut into inch-long sections and marinated green plums were sandwiched between them. No need to add anything. Seasoning, the salty and sour taste of green plums are naturally the best match for meat. After it's out of the pot, sprinkle a handful of green onions, it has a wonderful aroma. There is also a stir-fried plum meat with double peppers. The shoulder and neck meat is cut into very thin slices and stir-fried with heavy oil over high heat. It is ready in an instant. The red, green, yellow and white colors are beautiful; the meat is carefully selected, so the taste is naturally good.

Many people think that pork butt tip meat is the best for "dry-fried shredded pork" in Sichuan cuisine. It is tough and chewy enough. It is paired with salty and spicy seasonings. The more you chew, the more flavorful it becomes. It is suitable for drinking. . In fact, the most sophisticated Chengdu restaurants also use shoulder and neck meat when making stir-fried shredded pork. Stir slowly over low heat to dry out the moisture in the meat and maximize the "brittleness" of the shoulder and neck meat. It's crispy in the mouth and has almost no residue. Although it's called dry stir-fry, the taste is not much worse than fried food.

There is a dialogue in Shen Congwen's "Border Town": "I want to eat meat, I want it to be thick and glutinous, I am a rower, and I want to stew carrots and drink with it!" The pork belly is not too thin, and after tasting the shoulder and neck meat, and then eating the "charcoal roasted pork neck meat" made from the trough meat, you can immediately compare the difference between the Riba people under the white snow in Yangchun.

By the way, another thing worth mentioning is that the part of the pork shoulder and neck meat corresponds to the "cow upper brain" on the cow. Those who are familiar with the art of cutting steak should have no trouble imagining the beauty of it.