Chinese food with porridge and pasta has a long history. It is a unique diet structure with grains as the staple food and vegetables and fish as the non-staple food. It was formed in Qin and Han Dynasties and developed in Tang and Song Dynasties. Looking at the food development in the Song Dynasty for more than 311 years, it is an important stage in the history of ancient Chinese food. The diet varieties and cooking techniques in the Song Dynasty surpassed those in the Tang Dynasty. The staple food varieties in Song Dynasty can be roughly divided into rice, porridge, pasta and cakes. On the basis of inheriting the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the varieties of rice and porridge have greatly increased; The technology of cooking rice and porridge has gradually improved, which basically adapted to the needs of urban and rural residents in the Song Dynasty. Rice is the most basic food in the traditional diet in ancient China. According to legend, the Yellow Emperor created steamed rice, which has a long history of four or five thousand years. During the Han and Tang dynasties, rice was divided into millet, millet, white sorghum, white millet, yellow sorghum and other categories due to different raw materials. During the Song Dynasty, the variety of rice increased, the ingredients were ingenious and exquisite, especially the use of a variety of raw materials together to refine rice products, which was more distinctive. Today, I want to introduce several special rice products: Panyou rice, also known as Tuanyou rice, is a flavor rice popular in Lingnan area (now Guangdong and Hainan) in Tang and Song Dynasties. According to Bei Hu Lu, a highway in the Tang Dynasty, it is a kind of rice synthesized with fried shrimp, fried fish, chicken, goose, pig and mutton enema and ginger, cinnamon, salt and black beans as seasoning. It is a nutritious food for rich women when they are pregnant, similar to today's mixed rice or mixed rice. This kind of rice was still popular in the Song Dynasty. Su Dongpo, a great writer in the Northern Song Dynasty, made it more clear in "Notes on Qiu Chi Pan You Fan" that Pan You Fan and Tuan You Fan are similar in pronunciation, so they were mistakenly written in circulation.

he said, "Jiangnan people are good at cooking fried rice, and there are all kinds of preserved fish, which are buried in rice. As the saying goes,' Dig a cellar'. Erhong rice is a kind of rice made of barley and beans, which was created by Su Dongpo when he was an assistant of Yong ying in Huangzhou (now Huanggang, Hubei). Su Dongpo's "Notes on Qiuchi Erhong Rice" made a concrete record of Erhong Rice: this year, Dongpo (the eastern foot of the mountain) collected more than 21 stones of barley, which was sold at a very low price, but the japonica rice was suitable, so the handmaiden took it as a meal day and night. Chewing is slurping, children are in tune, and the cloud is chewing lice. However, if you are hungry in the middle of the day, you can wash it with pulp water, which is naturally sweet and sour and has the smell of northwest villages. Today, I was ordered to cook with miscellaneous beans, which was especially delicious. The old wife laughed and said, "This new sample is two red rice." Flat peach rice is a special kind of rice cooked with peach meat and rice, hence the name. It is popular in Songtao Township. Lin Hong, a writer in the Southern Song Dynasty, introduced the method of making flat peach rice: mountain peach, cooked with rice bran (rice washing water) and soaked in water. Remove the core, pour it into boiling rice, cook it for a while, and stew it. In the Song Dynasty, both the south and the north were used as food. It has been recorded many times in the History of the Song Dynasty that people in the Song Dynasty mostly eat millet and rice, indicating frugality and incorruptibility. According to Biography of Hu Mi in Song Dynasty, Hu Mi, a native of Suichang, said that Zhu Xi, a Dali scholar, entertained students with "rice without millet". Hu Bi visited Zhu Xi in Wuyishan when he was an official. Zhu Xi also treated him with rice with millet. He was very unhappy and said, "A chicken is a bottle of wine, and there is nothing in the mountains that is lacking." Black rice is a traditional food in ancient times, and Taoism and Buddhism attach great importance to it.

Taoism believes that this is a fairy rice that can prolong life, and it is called green refined stone rice. Tao Hongjing's "Dengzhen Yinji" records the production method: cook the leaves of the southern candle plant and the bark of the miscellaneous stems, soak the juice in rice and steam it. Lin Hong's "Shan Jia Qing Gong" introduces two different production methods: Southern Candle Square, now known as Black Rice Grass, also known as Eclipta prostrata, that is, Qing Jing Ye. Pick branches and leaves, mash juice, soak in white japonica rice, no matter how much, wait for one or two hours, and steam rice. Exposed to dry, firm and blue, stored. If it is used, first boil it with boiling water in meters, and it will be a meal. Water is neither too much nor too little. Long-term service will prolong life and benefit the face. Another method: use three kilograms of bluestone fat and one bucket of green rice, soak them in water for three days, pound them into pills the size of plums, and take one or two pills with boiling water. After introducing this method, he quoted the Book of Materia Medica as saying that people in mountain villages usually prefer cooked food. Su Song in the Northern Song Dynasty also introduced the popular practice at that time, in which raw white japonica rice was washed with one welcome and five buckets, and one welcome and two buckets were taken. Use five kilograms of leaves of southern candle wood, three kilograms for those who are dry, and boil the miscellaneous stems and leaves into juice, which is extremely cold, so that it can be cooked with rice. Li Shizhen said, "When the sun enters and closes, you will not be hungry, which will benefit the color, strengthen the bones and muscles, benefit the stomach, replenish the marrow, and kill the three pests. If you take it for a long time, it will turn white but old. In the Song Dynasty, the number of meals increased gradually. According to Naideon's "Capital Jisheng" in the Southern Song Dynasty, there are many kinds of restaurants in Hangzhou in the Southern Song Dynasty, such as mouth-marrow rice, bone-bone rice, glutinous rice, soaked rice, water and rice. In the Northern Song Dynasty, there were also interesting stories about Su Dongpo's relationship with rice and rice. Zeng Yi's "A Random Record of Gaozhai" contains: Dongpo tasted Qian Mufu's saying: "In ordinary contacts, you must say whether you have home or not, and you don't have to get together hastily." One day, Mu Fu wrote a letter calling Dongpo to eat rice.

when it comes to rice, a dish of radish and a white soup, it's just covered with three whites (xi m: o). It is said that rice, vegetables and soup are all white, hence the name "rice". Su Dongpo felt that he had been played tricks on, and later wanted revenge. He also invited Qian Xie to his home to eat "rice". Qian Mufu went to Dongpo's house and waited for a long time, but he didn't see Su Dongpo's intention of setting food for a treat. He was hungry and uncomfortable. Dongpo always said to wait for a while, so three times, and finally Su Dongpo replied: Radish, soup and rice are all "hairy". The Shu pronunciation "Mao" is similar to "Wu", which means "Wu". That is to say, there are no three kinds of food, and Su Dongpo also teased Qian Mufu once. A wealthy family in the Song Dynasty did not cherish food and wasted a lot. "Gui Er Ji" records that at the end of the Northern Song Dynasty, Wang Fu, a minister, was a neighbor to the temple, and a monk in the temple percolated out the snowy white rice flowing out of the ditch of Wang Fu's house every day, washed it, dried it and preserved it, and accumulated it into a hoard in a few years. After the difficulty of Jingkang, the nomads from Jin occupied Bianjing, and the food in Wang's house was not continued, so they faced the pain of fasting. The monks then steamed the dried rice grains collected into rice and sent them to Wang's house for their family to eat, thus solving the food difficulties of Wang's house. (2) Porridge and dietotherapy porridge were named Mi, (Sound Felt), Mei (Sound Yi) and so on in ancient times, which is said to have been founded by the Yellow Emperor. The ancients divided porridge into two categories: thick porridge and thin porridge. Or the raw materials are divided into rice porridge, wheat porridge, bean porridge, millet porridge, milk porridge, etc.; Each category is divided into many varieties. According to the records in three books of the Song literature, Taiping Shenghui Fang, Shengji Zonglu, and Old-age Family Offering Book, there are as many as 316 kinds of porridge for dietotherapy. Zhang Wenqian, a scholar in the Northern Song Dynasty, wrote a special article "The Story of Porridge", which greatly praised the benefits of eating porridge and said that it could prolong life. He also said: "Every morning, eat a big bowl of porridge, and the stomach is empty on an empty stomach, and the grain gas will be made, and the supplement is not fine. It is also extremely soft and greasy, and it is compatible with the stomach. It is the best diet. "

Lu You's Poem on Eating Porridge in the Southern Song Dynasty also strongly recommended the beauty of drinking porridge: all the people in the world are seniors, but they don't realize that many years are now; I have to learn from the people, just eat porridge to the gods. It can be seen from the poem that Lu You thinks that the easiest way to prolong life is to eat porridge. Wanqiu (now in Henan Province) mentioned in the poem is the place where Shennong tasted a hundred herbs and distinguished medicines to make people live longer, which is a metaphor for eating porridge to live longer. Fan Zhongyan, a politician in the Northern Song Dynasty, was a bitter mechanic when he was a teenager. When he ate porridge twice in the morning and evening on weekdays, he only served a la carte. His classmates pitied him for his poverty, but he regarded him as a "delicacy". In the Northern Song Dynasty, Su Dongpo also highly praised rice congee in his letters to friends. He said, "When you are hungry at night, Wu Ziye advised you to eat rice congee, which can promote innovation and benefit your stomach. Porridge is fast and beautiful, and it is especially wonderful to sleep after porridge. " He also said: "I have nothing to ask for in the world. All I need is two hectares of land to make enough porridge." Porridge is not only a common food among the common people, but also a diet porridge for ministers in the court of Tang and Song Dynasties to show their love. Wang Dan (957-1117), the prime minister of the Song Dynasty, was trusted by Song Zhenzong for his earnest work over ten years. Once when Wang Dan was seriously ill, Zhenzong not only often sent a chamberlain to express condolences to him, but also personally mixed the medicine and gave him yam porridge. (2) porridge, in the Song Dynasty, also became a pious food dedicated to Buddha. "Dream of Tokyo" records that on the eighth day of December, the temples in Kaifeng, Bianjing, held a Buddhist bath and presented seven treasures and five flavors of porridge to believers, which can be called "Laba porridge"; Lin 'an (now Hangzhou), the capital of the Southern Song Dynasty, also followed.

There were more than 311 kinds of porridge in Song Dynasty, which were roughly divided into four categories: legumes, flowers, fruits and vegetables and animals. In Song Dynasty, the variety of cereal porridge increased, and the cooking technology was refined, which has become an important feature of staple food. The main varieties are indica rice porridge, burnt rice porridge, aged rice porridge, japonica rice porridge, fragrant rice porridge, glutinous rice porridge, barley porridge, wheat porridge, rice-wheat porridge, glutinous rice porridge, millet porridge, rice porridge and millet porridge. There are more than ten kinds of bean porridge in Song Dynasty, such as soybean porridge, black bean porridge, mung bean porridge, red bean porridge, pea porridge, broad bean porridge and bean porridge, among which red bean porridge and mung bean porridge are the most common, and doctors in Song Dynasty also praised red bean porridge. The medical book records a vegetarian woman who gave birth to a baby. After seven days, her breast pulse failed (pass), and the medicine was ineffective. Occasionally, she got a liter of red beans, cooked porridge and ate it that night. Lin Hong's "Shan Jia Qing Gong" also preserved the cooking method of red bean porridge in Song Dynasty, which is simple and feasible: "Boil red beans in a sand bottle (pottery with a long neck and a wide belly); Wait for the porridge to boil less, cook it together, and eat it when it is cooked. " Cooking porridge with flowers and rice grains is also an important feature of porridge in Song Dynasty. There are many kinds of plum blossom porridge, tea paste porridge, chrysanthemum porridge, osmanthus porridge and so on. Plum blossom porridge "sweeps down Meiying (fallen plum blossom), picks it up and washes it." Cook porridge with snow water and white rice. Wait until cooked, and cook in (Mei) English. " This method of cooking porridge, recorded from Lin Hong's "Shan Jia Qing Gong", is the most popular among scholars. They believe that eating plum blossom porridge not only has the effect of "improving eyesight, benefiting qi, removing annoyance and calming the nerves", but also can express noble and elegant taste. Yang Wanli, an idyllic poet in the Southern Song Dynasty, wrote a poem saying: "It's only after seeing wax that spring dawns, but before seeing the wind, it's snowing." If you take off the core and collect it, you will eat porridge, and it will still be good to burn the English. "

It means that spring comes after winter, and I'm worried about plum blossoms falling in the spring breeze. Pick up the fallen plum blossoms and cook them for porridge, and use them as spices. Gu Mi, melons, fruits and vegetables were mixed to make porridge, which was also popular in Song Dynasty. There were mainly ten or twenty kinds of porridge, such as persimmon porridge, Laifu porridge, bergamot porridge, flax porridge, amaranth porridge, lotus seed porridge, leek leaf porridge, turnip porridge, peach kernel porridge, yam porridge and sugarcane porridge. This kind of porridge is popular because of its therapeutic effect. Sesame porridge sesame, also known as sesame and Jusheng, is now black sesame. Cooking porridge with flax and rice was popular in Tang Dynasty and more common in Song Dynasty. Physicians and Taoists especially like to eat food. Taiping Shenghuifang, the official medical book of the Northern Song Dynasty, describes a method of cooking porridge: "There is no limit to the number of giant winners, pick out impurities (impurities) and steam them for nine times each. Every time you take two pieces, wrap them in soup, peel them, grind them, filter the juice with water, fry them into soup, and eat them with glutinous rice as porridge. " The book also pointed out that eating huge porridge has the good effect of "treating deficiency of five internal organs, winning thinness, benefiting qi and strengthening bones and muscles". Almond porridge was a diet porridge in the Tang and Song Dynasties, which was especially popular among Taoist hermits in the Song Dynasty. Lin Hong's "Shan Jia Qing Gong" in the Southern Song Dynasty recorded the method and origin of this porridge: "Apricots, boiled and pitted, are cooked together when the porridge is cooked, which can be described as real porridge. Traveling to Lushan Mountain, I heard that when Dong Zhenjun was immortal, he planted many kinds of apricots. At the age of 21, apricots are exchanged for grain, while at the age of 21, apologies are exchanged for grain, so many people live. After the day, the immortal rises. There is a poem in the world: competition is like a lotus peak, and planting red can also become immortal. Is it necessary to specialize in alchemy and be convinced? If you have merit, you will be immortal, even though you are not dead, because of your name. "