When I researched "color", I discovered that in Japan, color, expression, beauty, and love interest were all the contents of sex. When a person is walking on the sunny Hanami path in Kyoto, occasionally, a beautiful kimono woman will rush by, and then all the stories about sex slowly emerge in front of me. The reality of Kyoto The feeling and the imaginary Kyoto in my heart gradually became consistent and became one.

The Beautiful Kinkakuji of Despair

Having read many novels set in Kyoto, I already had a Kyoto of my own in my mind. I think that girls in Kyoto must be as beautiful, quiet and slightly sad as Chieko in Kawabata Yasunari's novel "The Ancient Capital". Every time a woman wearing a kimono passes by, I will have endless reverie, imagining what kind of stories she will have.

At Tofukuji Temple, the red leaves, the indescribably thick colors, the overwhelming momentum, and the almost ultimate beauty actually make people feel despair.

At that time, I understood the little monk who set the fire. He was desperate because of the beauty of the Golden Pavilion Temple, and had the urge to destroy the beauty. Yukio Mishima's novel "Kinkakuji" made Kinkakuji the most famous attraction in Kyoto. The story of Kinkakuji is adapted from a true story, describing a fire that occurred in 1950 and caused the complete destruction of Kinkakuji. The monk who set the fire said after his arrest that the beauty of the Kinkakuji Temple made me despair and made me jealous, so I burned it. The reason for this crime is completely in line with Mishima's thought that "a young and tragic death is the supreme beauty." Therefore, the Kinkakuji Temple has become Mishima's masterpiece and an eternal symbol of Kyoto.

In fact, this fire also inspired another novelist to write another novel, "Yugiri Tower on the Fifth Street" by Tsutomu Minamizu. There is now a cake called "Yuko" in Kyoto, which is named after the heroine of this novel. Because of his poor family, Tsutomu Minakami was sent to the Zuishun-in Temple near Kyoto to become a novice monk. In addition to "Yugiri Tower on the 5th Street", he also has many medium-length novels such as "Butterfly of the Western Front" and "Mandarin Duck's Hate". ", etc., the story scenes are also set in Kyoto or its suburbs.

Many times, when we go to Kyoto, we don’t just see its ancient architecture. The creations of literati, the mysterious kabuki life, and the unique customs of ancient capitals have all become an important part of our aesthetic process.

The world of geisha

In the eyes of foreigners, geisha, Mount Fuji and Kinkakuji are among the three most typical impressions of Japan. Artists who perform dances and play the shamisen (the three-stringed harp among Japanese musical instruments) at banquets held at restaurants and other places are called geisha, while maiko refers to geisha who have not yet been able to stand alone. The first step into the world of geisha is to start training as an apprentice. After entering the geisha center, the newlyweds need to help the maids with chores, learn dance and shamisen, and undergo rigorous training in sitting, standing and other behaviors.

If the newcomer is recognized by the housekeeper, the hostess, and gets a stage name given by the heroine, they can debut as a maiko. In the past, most maiko debuted at the age of fourteen or fifteen, but currently due to laws, every maiko must be 18 years old before they can perform in front of guests.

After the age of 20, they become independent and become the so-called "own geisha". This is another way for geisha to pursue development. Of course, they will also be required to have stricter talent, style and temperament standards.

Most geishas are homeowners. Just like today's singers and actors, all work matters are managed by brokerage companies. Restaurants that need the services of geishas will take the initiative to make reservations with brokers called "miban" , the agent will dispatch manpower to the housing estate.

The place where geisha usually work and move around, where restaurants and houses are concentrated, is called Flower Street.

Every year from April to May, Kyoto Flower Street holds dance events such as "Tokyo", "Kamogawa Dance" and "Kyo's Dance" to make the cherry blossom season more lively and colorful. Such activities have already It has become one of Kyoto’s representative events. Maiko and geisha, who inherit ancient traditions and patterns and perform at the highest level, are not just inheritors of traditional talents. It is not an exaggeration to say that they are artists who have brought Kyoto and Japanese traditional culture to the extreme. .

Tourists who come to Kyoto can’t help but want to try Kyoto cuisine in Kyoto’s restaurants and enjoy the gorgeous dancing of maiko. However, its price is not cheap, it is even staggeringly expensive.

Hanamikoji

The several small roads that intersect with Shijo-dori, such as Hanamikoji, Pontocho-dori, and Kiyamachi-dori, are lined with traditional Japanese houses, which have the strongest Japanese flavor. Hanamikoji is full of high-end restaurants where you can enjoy geisha and maiko performances. It is the main area for nightlife in Kyoto. Although the Japanese food there is very authentic, it is also very expensive. However, this area is worthy of careful observation. Looking at it, most of the buildings are elegant Japanese garden buildings. In addition, there are small lamps under the Japanese style corridors, and customers are coming and going to drink wine. The dim night with antique charm is full of fusang style.

As we walk into the smaller alleys, the warmth and tranquility seem to make us hear the gentle footsteps of the geisha's tall clogs.

The Japanese-style hotels on Hanamikoji also have a unique style.

When it comes to hotels, most people associate them with cheap and simple, but it is completely different in Japan. Especially in Kyoto, the accommodation fee is sky-high because it is not only a Japanese-style classical building, but also has a small number of rooms. And it also includes breakfast and dinner. Under the principle of winning by service, the general fee is at least 20,000 yen.

Even though it is horribly expensive, it is still worth staying for foreigners who want to truly experience the Japanese style.

Yoshima is a pure Japanese-style garden hotel located on Hanamikoji. Although its low eaves and appearance are inconspicuous, it is very popular among European and American people. As soon as you enter, the enthusiastic boss introduces the guests in fluent English to familiarize them with the environment. Finally, he invites the guests to drink tea in the tea room. Even the wearing of Japanese yukata has detailed illustrations. There are only about 20 Japanese-style guest rooms in the whole hotel. The others are a large living room, a tea room, a cultural room and a restaurant filled with antiques. In the evening, I was sitting in the hotel restaurant having a meal. As the sun set, I saw a Japanese geisha in a gorgeous kimono swaying past the window, and I felt like I didn't know where I was.

Modern stations in the ancient capital

If the Gion area represents the charm of the ancient capital’s small streets, the area around JR Kyoto Station is the area where Kyoto is striving to embrace the future.

The Kyoto Station Building, built to commemorate the 1,200th anniversary of the founding of Heian (Kyoto) as the capital, can be said to be a new symbol of historical Kyoto leading to future Kyoto. At the same time, in the eyes of architects, Kyoto Station is an avant-garde, practical and futuristic building, and its spatial art is even more talked about.

So when you come out of Kyoto Station, you can’t see any ruins of this ancient city from any angle. All you see is the high-rise hotels built for the large number of tourists surrounding the station. It’s just the square in front of us. This is indeed a wonderful experience that gives Kyoto a new look.

JR Kyoto Station, which has not yet been completed, is not only the largest train station in Japan, but also integrates various entertainment facilities, including department stores, food courts, theaters, art galleries, underground shopping malls and restaurants. . In addition, the structure composed of steel frames and glass also allows Kyoto Station to change its style with light and shadow. Walking in it, you can feel its incredibleness every time.

The Daiso Plaza, located on the top floor west of the station, is the closest place to the "sky" in Kyoto. If you are brave enough, it is recommended to climb the 171 steps of the super large staircase, and the experience will be even more profound. In this open space, the unique yellow lighting and the red rest seats give people a very "Miro" impression.

Looking out from here, you can clearly see the streets of Kyoto. It is a rare overlooking point in this ancient capital.

The wide and high grand staircase is the representative of Kyoto Station. It connects the Muromachi Koji Plaza and the Sora Plaza. Since the higher the height, the less obstructed the view, people with a fear of heights may not be able to enjoy this "endless sight". "The feeling of freedom. Next to the large staircase elevator, there are also ordinary art advertising paintings, and there are exits to the Isetan Department Store and the Station Art Museum on both sides of the stage.

As the escalator rises higher and higher, the transparent steel-framed air passage reflects the changing colors of the Kyoto Tower's glass curtain, which is really beautiful.

Fujiwara Culture and Byodo-in Temple

There are so many monuments in Kyoto. When you enter Kyoto, you will be at a loss and don’t know where to go. Of course you have to go to Kinkaku-ji Temple, and you can’t miss Kiyomizu-dera Temple. Nijo Castle will let you feel the atmosphere of ancient royalty. In fact, there is another place that may not be so famous, but it is also a good place to experience Japanese culture.

Fujiwara refers to a prominent family with a deep marriage relationship with the imperial family in the late Heian period. The heyday of this family was in the 11th century, when Fujiwara Michinaga and Fujiwara Yorimichi were in power for nearly a hundred years. Byodo-in was built by Fujiwara Yorimichi after his father's palace was renovated. In cultural history, Fujiwara culture refers to dynastic elegance and a completely aristocratic taste. The life culture and aesthetic taste at this time were completely aristocratic. Since the pursuit of the Pure Land was popular among the aristocrats at that time, Byodo-in also represented the imagination of the Japanese aristocrats at that time about the Pure Land world: luxurious, beautiful, gorgeous, and stable.

The Byodo-in Temple, known as the Phoenix Hall, is the only remaining fruit of Fujiwara culture and a representative building. The pattern on the 10-yen copper plate is the Phoenix Hall.

The original name of the famous Phoenix Hall was Amitabha Hall, because the seated statue of Amitabha Buddha was enshrined in the hall.

Later, in the early Edo period, the temple began to be called Phoenix Hall because its shape resembled a bird flapping its wings and there were phoenixes on both sides of the beams.

In addition to the Phoenix Hall, another noteworthy thing about Byodoin is the Aji Pond in front of the Phoenix Hall. Azi Pond is a typical Pure Land-style garden. The entire garden design is centered on Amitabha Hall, with ponds and islands symmetrically distributed on both sides. It is hoped to create a pure land of bliss that symbolizes the mandala.

Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine

Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine is the headquarter of the 40,000 Inari shrines across Japan. What does "Inari" refer to? It is a fox. Japanese farmers have believed since ancient times that fox spirits are messengers between humans and gods who can bless harvests and good weather. Therefore, Inari Shrine is equivalent to our Earth God Temple.

The entire temple of Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine is painted in vermilion, which is said to symbolize the color of ripe fruits during the autumn harvest.

The most famous landscape of Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine is the "Senbon Torii". In addition to the torii gates within the shrine, there are several miles of vermilion torii tunnels along the way from behind Fushimi Inari to Mount Inari. It takes about two hours to walk through the entire tunnel, which is really amazing and shows how popular it is. The "Sarasando" in front of Inari Taisha Shrine is a good place for shopping, with souvenir and food stalls very busy. Interestingly, the most famous snack on this road is roasted sparrows. This must be because sparrows love to eat rice in the fields. But even if sparrows can fly, they can only become dish dishes when they fly to the door of the rice lotus god who specially bless farmers. Chinese food. Therefore, there has been a legend since ancient times that as long as you eat a roasted sparrow at the entrance of Inari Taisha Shrine, it is guaranteed that no sparrows will disturb your fields this year.

Arashiyama Painting

In Kyoto it is often difficult to tell whether the painting is in your eyes or you are in the painting. I accidentally became the person in the painting. In many places, there is a path of cherry blossoms in spring and a path of maple leaves in autumn. Especially in the Arashiyama area, as soon as spring comes, cherry blossoms bloom, making people feel like they are in a cherry blossom tunnel. In autumn, you will be surrounded by red leaves again, and strolling there becomes an eternal moment captured by photographers.

There are many souvenir shops around Arashiyama Station. You can buy whatever you want, including food, toys, trinkets, and souvenirs. They are extremely lively and full of tourists. Walking out of Keifuku Arashiyama Train Station, there are row after row of souvenir shops, which are very lively. Among them are shops owned by celebrities and a memorial hall for the late star Hibari Misora.

The Togetsukyo Bridge across the Katsura River is famous for its beautiful scenery. There are an endless stream of tour boats on the Katsura River. The scenery on the river is worth stopping to appreciate. Next to the bridge is a stone tablet inscribed by Zhou Enlai when he visited. Crossing the Katsura River and walking inward, at the left end of the bridge is Nakanoshima Park. There are some tea shops and restaurants where visitors can rest, where they can also overlook the Katsura River and take photos. Go to the right of the bridge and take a walk along the river embankment trail.

There is a long row of sightseeing rickshaws next to the bridge. Taking a rickshaw tour around Arashiyama and Sagano is a very popular activity.

The cherry blossom trees in Togetsuki Park are also quite impressive, but the red leaves of Arashiyama are too bright, which makes the spring cherry blossoms eclipse and not mentioned.

The memories of Kyoto are pictures of silent and extremely beautiful scenes. I like Kyoto. I like to sit alone on the steps of Jojikoji Temple in the autumn afternoon and watch the light and shadow dance on the autumn treetops. I like to walk alone in the torii of Inari Taisha Shrine and enjoy the silence and freshness. I like to walk alone. Aimlessly enjoying sudden surprises in the alleys of Kyoto; I like to sit alone on the grand staircase of Kyoto Station at night, looking at the huge Christmas tree filled with decorations, and enjoy the loneliness that seems to be nothing.

Tips for travel times:

1. Introduction to flower streets: Flower streets originated in the Edo period. Currently, there are approximately 60 flower streets in Japan from Hokkaido to Kyushu; Kyoto’s flower streets are concentrated in Heyuan Town. , there are about 5 flower streets, including "Gion Kobe", "Gion East", "Pontocho", "Miyagawacho", and "Kamishichiken", where more than 200 geisha and dancers live.

2. Rules for watching geisha performances: The main cost of a geisha meal is the jade fee (that is, the maiko's appearance fee, cooking meal fee, wine money, etc.). The appearance fee is usually calculated in two-hour units. The fee is shared by the guests present and paid to the diner. If you are not sure about the calculation and payment method, you can ask the female boss (female boss) of the diner. If you are satisfied with the performance, you can also voluntarily add money. , as for how to give, you can also ask the female general; when maiko and geisha are performing dance performances, guests and viewers are not allowed to stand up or move at will, or even talk. The rules are to listen quietly and appreciate; you can only call geisha by her stage name or Miss; Sitting with geishas and communicating easily with each other is a sign of respect for geishas who specialize in traditional talents.

3. Food: Kyoto’s unique, slightly smelly mackerel sushi and steamed sushi; delicate and refreshing Kyoto “Kyozukemono” (pickles, pickles); delicate and sweet season The popular "Kyo confectionery" and the colorful and cute "Kyo sweets" (Kyo sweets) have their own characteristics, and the desserts are the most authentic hot and cold snacks made with Uji green tea and Tanba red beans.