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Yaotou Xiaoji
? Before going to Yaotou, I thought that the only ancient town in Shaanxi with the theme of ancient kiln site was Chenlu. When I went to Chenlu ancient town a few years ago, I was really shocked. Chenlu Kiln is a continuation of the ancient Yaozhou Kiln, which has inherited the Yaozhou Kiln Fire for over 300 years. It is the only Yaozhou kiln that keeps firing and never stops burning. Here, the mountain road is curved, the kiln houses are mixed, the roof is covered with tiles, and the walls are made of porcelain pots, which is called the pot wall. The path extending deep in the alley is also tiled. "Porcelain" has become a local mantra, describing someone as dull or dull, and jokingly calling them "hair porcelain" and "porcelain hammer". This is an ancient town, a world where ceramics make a living.

? When I came to Yaotou Ancient Town, Chengcheng County, Weibei in the cold winter, I found that it was also an ancient town dominated by ancient kiln sites. I often see a simple black bowl in the noodle restaurant opened by Shaanxi people or some authentic Guanzhong people. These things are black porcelain, from Yaotou kiln in Chengcheng county.

? Yaotou kiln is a folk kiln and the birthplace of Guanzhong black porcelain kiln.

? Chengcheng county is gray in winter, and Yaotou ancient town is located in the hilly area 10 km north of the county.

? Yaotou Town is a street, insipid and tasteless, but it is a bit like a living welfare area in a mining area. Most of the pedestrians on the road are miners. There are many coal mines near Bai Pu Mining Bureau. There are abundant coal resources in this area, and crucibles are distributed in gullies to produce white and purple raw materials, which is convenient for firing ceramics and sand ware. Unique natural conditions, since the Tang Dynasty, local villagers have made blank paintings in summer and autumn and sold them in winter kilns, which have been passed down from generation to generation.

? The real ancient town of Yaotou is hidden in a rolling hill at the end of a street.

? Yaotou Village and Houzhaizi Village occupy the whole hill. This is Laoyaotou Town. Yaotou Village is in the west and Houzhaizi Village is in the east.

? Yaotou Village is an east-west street, with almost all old houses on both sides, some of which have fallen into disrepair and most of which have been abandoned. In ancient times, businesses, banks, restaurants, inns and mountain products stood in the old street of Yaotou Town, with businesses in the south and businesses in the north. "Ten-mile thoroughfare leads to Luotan, and Chang 'an is far west; The guests are here to divide the gold and silver, so don't look at the fog of the Zhang family. " It can be seen that its prosperity. Yaotou kiln has been listed as a national key cultural relics protection unit, especially after Yaotou Town was listed as a national famous town. Now Yaotou Village is carrying out large-scale construction on both sides of the street to restore and rebuild the ancient town of Yaotou. There is a newly-built Li family ancestral hall at the entrance to the village. Yaotou Village is controlled by the Li family. On the north side next to the ancestral hall is a porcelain workshop restored on the original site. The artists in the yard are absorbed in their work and show every process. Visitors can have a systematic understanding of the whole process of ceramic production by visiting their working conditions, and will continue to pass on the firing technology that lasted for more than 1000 years. Yaotou kiln ceramics began in Han and Tang Dynasties, flourished in Song and Yuan Dynasties, and flourished in Ming and Qing Dynasties. Its shape is simple and clumsy, its texture is heavy, its roughness is ingenious, and it is simple but not vulgar; The enamel is moist and radiant; Black as paint, unique style, extraordinary self-esteem and unique charm.

? The north slope of the street is mainly a group of residential sites, and it is also the residence of Li. It used to be the residence of town offices, township offices and village committees, and it was still inhabited in the 1980s. Most of these caves have collapsed and become desolate ruins of the old city. The rammed earth, adobe, earth walls, bricks and tiles on the site have all become ruins after being beaten by wind, rain, sun and rain, especially the tops of some remaining doors and windows are mostly dome-shaped. The broken city wall and several lonely doorways stood alone and hung together like peas and carrots. I stood on a dilapidated wall, and my eyes were boundless. The desolate homeland of the city wall reminds me of the ruins of Gaochang old city in Turpan. It is somewhat remote in the desolation, which makes my thoughts wander on the distant Silk Road.

? The southern slope is mostly the original ecological ancient kiln ruins, with more than 30 ancient kilns in Song, Yuan, Ming, Qing and Republic of China preserved. There is a porcelain kiln site in Wengyao District which was built in the 24th year of Qing Daoguang (1844). The kiln is seven or eight meters long, six or seven meters wide and sixteen or seven meters high. It is made of refractory bricks and discarded saggers. It consists of double return air flue, ash pit and coal stove, and is a typical steamed bread kiln in northern China. Black glazed porcelain, white porcelain, blue and white porcelain, etc. Mainly firing, the kiln can hold 800 ~ 1200 pieces (sets) of porcelain. The inner wall of the kiln has been burned for more than a hundred years, and the smoke oil formed is caked, as if it were a thick and colorful oil painting. There is a black kiln burning area on the back slope. From a distance, the black kilns are like small golden pagodas scattered on the hilly landscape. Black kilns are porcelain kilns that burn pots, jars, lamps, oil lamps, pen holders, wine vessels and other daily necessities. Because the burning utensils are all black glazed, they are called "black kiln". Black kiln products are the representative products of kiln head kiln, with black color and bright luster.

? On the west side of North Street, there is a row of shop caves built in the thirty-seventh year of Qing Emperor Kangxi (1698). These caves face south, close to the street, and some have collapsed. These abandoned caves are more than ten meters long and five or six meters wide, and there is a lot of space. They are warehouses and shops dedicated to storing all kinds of kiln-fired porcelain. They are filled with all kinds of porcelain products. From the Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China and even to the 1970s, the annual sales volume reached hundreds of thousands.

? I came to Houzhaizi Village from the west slope to the east. As soon as I went uphill, I was deeply attracted by a quadrangle cave complex. The cave is surrounded by ancient rammed earth walls. This is the former site of Huatuo Temple. The statue of Hua Tuo in the temple has 12 arms and looks like Guanyin with a thousand hands. In the 1950s, the temple was converted into a township government office, and later into a people's commune. 1975 commune moved out and became the headquarters of Yaotou Brigade. Now it is a residential building.

? Shortly after the site of Huatuo Temple, villagers are using a Christian church. The church sits west facing east, and the cross on the roof of the church can be seen in the distance.

? Houzhaizi is a village composed of many surnames, most of which are Liu Hebai. In the late 1980s and early 1990s, residents moved to Baijiacheng New Village in Yaotou Town. Houzhaizi Village is built on the mountain, with a north-south direction and an east-west direction. Dozens of caves are nestled under the undulating hills. The village was very quiet. Because of my appearance, the dog barked from the cave. An old man hobbled out of the yard and politely invited me in. Besides the three caves, there are several chickens in the yard. What makes me most curious is that there is a bellows next to the brick cooker in the kitchen. Seeing that I was very interested, she scooped a few spoonfuls of water into the pot, lit the firewood and put it in the mouth of the pot. She pulls the bellows in her right hand and adds firewood in her left. The stove caught fire and the air was filled with thick smoke. The old man surnamed Bai is 76 years old this year. His wife has been dead for many years, and all the children have moved to a new village. She lives alone because she can't stand the old place. The children will come to see her during the holidays. The walls of the courtyard are covered with many cacti, which makes the empty courtyard show some vitality. The old man said that cactus is kept on the wall, one for beauty and the other for theft prevention. She said that there are two other families living in the village, both of whom are old ladies in their 70s. One goes to play mahjong in the street, and the other goes to church.