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The historical story of candied scallion pancakes

Introduction

Sugar scallion pancake is a Chaoshan snack. Originating from Futan Village, Chendian Town, Chaonan District, Shantou City, Guangdong Province, it is known as Yatan, so many people call the candied scallion pancake "Yatan Candied Onion". It is made of a round pancake wrapper with long strips of candied scallions inside. The shape matches the name very well. Candied onions are long strips with many through holes in the middle, like multiple onion holes stuck together side by side. They are white in color, so they are called candied onions. The pancake skin is cooked on a stove and is also white and a very thin round pancake. Sprinkle the candied scallions with sesame seeds, wrap them in pancakes, and you're ready to eat.

Evaluation

In the past, you could see many stalls selling candied scallion pancakes on many streets in the Chaoshan area. The pancakes were freshly made, and the candied scallions were also very fresh. Crispy and tough skin. Nowadays, this kind of food has gradually lost its consumer base. It may still be seen more in towns and villages, but it is said that it is rare in urban areas. The book "Chao Cai Tian Xia" contains some very clear pictures of candied scallion pancakes, as well as pictures of the production process of candied scallions. The author also spent a lot of time writing about candied scallion pancakes. The following is a description of candied scallions and pancakes excerpted from Zhang Xinmin's "Watching Chaoshan": Foil pancake rolled with candied scallions, also called candied scallion foil pancakes, is a Chaoshan delicacy that is about to disappear, one that even makes people dream in their sleep. I will still miss the sweet smell. Now, with all kinds of modern refined candies flooding the market, let us take advantage of the wings of folk songs and revisit this ancient local candy! Let’s talk about candied green onions first. The main raw material for making candied scallions is white sugar, which needs to be boiled in a pot first and then cooled to a suitable temperature before being beaten while it is still hot. The action of pulling the sugar is very similar to the northern ramen, but the sugar is very tough and needs to be fixed at one end to use it. When I was a child, I mostly saw the use of nails nailed to wooden telephone poles. Each time, the middle of the candy bar was hung on the nail. After stretching, the two strands were put together and hung up again. Repeat this process to incorporate air into the sugar until it becomes a white hollow rectangular candy bar. Then cut it into little finger-long segments to become crispy and sweet "white sugar scallions". Candied scallions, as the name suggests, are sugar cubes with onion holes and as white as scallions. The candied scallions taste crunchy and melt in your mouth without sticking to your teeth. It's so delicious. The only drawback is that the sprinkles always fall off when eating, so we came up with foil cake rolled with candied scallions. Speaking of foil pancakes, many people may think of the pancakes used to wrap the stuffing when eating Peking duck. However, Chaoshan’s foil pancakes are thinner. A stack of about ten sheets is equivalent to the thickness of one Beijing pancake. Chaoshan foil cakes are not rolled out with a rolling wheel, but made using a special method. The person making the foil cake holds the thin dough in one hand, touches it to the bottom of the hot pan and withdraws it. The thin dough that is stuck to the pan then solidifies into a cake, so he lifts up the foil cake and stacks it aside with the other hand. It's very fast to apply and close it, to open and release it.

Current situation

The candied scallions used to be packed in white plastic buckets, and the pancakes were packed in separate plastic bags, which are quite flavorful.

But this kind of packaging is very difficult to use in summer. It’s difficult to keep candied onions crispy for a long time. At present, Futan villagers have begun to use a new packaging method, which uses the method of sealing and packaging the pancakes and candied scallions separately. Putting the two in the same packaging box can preserve the candied scallions for a longer period of time and promote the candied scallion pancakes to the market. The consistent idea becomes a reality.