The diet culture in Han Dynasty has rich connotations, and diet is the first factor for human survival and development. As the saying goes, "Food is the most important thing for people"; Huainanzi is also called "the foundation of the people who eat"; "Shangshu? Hong Fan put forward the "eight reforms" of governing the country, that is, putting "food" first. Hanshu? Food Records also puts "food" in the first place. Diet is also the most basic and important in human social life such as clothing, food, housing and transportation. Other aspects and fields of human social life are also based on diet life, which is determined and restricted by diet life, and is closely related to diet life. The so-called "granary knows etiquette, food and clothing know honor and disgrace" is the truth.
nowadays, in addition to a few records in literature, history books and literary works, there are unearthed bamboo slips, and even Han stone reliefs, brick reliefs and murals with vivid images are more vivid and intuitive to reflect the content of food culture. In particular, the explanation of some meat-based non-staple foods is more specific, deliberately showing the value trend of meat representing food and appetite.
Zhou Li? Tian Guan Zhong Zai said, "Where the king gives food to six grains, six animals are used for meals." It can be seen that there has been a saying of "six sacrifices" in China since the pre-Qin period. It is also mentioned many times in the Book of Songs. "Six animals" include horses, cows, sheep, dogs and chickens. "Six Sacrifices" in China and Malaysia are mainly used for transportation, military supplies and national border defense. Therefore, in addition to horses, the other five species, together with fish, constitute the main part of ancient carnivores. With the continuous development of social diet in Han dynasty, Han people gradually discovered the nutrition and value of meat food, and the proportion of meat food in the diet also increased greatly compared with the previous generation. Until the later generations, the main meat category had been possessed in the Han Dynasty and occupied a major position.
a carnivorous diet structure
1. Cattle is one of the six livestock. In ancient times, cattle were mainly used for eating and offering sacrifices. In the middle and late Spring and Autumn Period, with the appearance of iron plough and Niu Geng, cattle were mainly used to cultivate livestock. However, the basic national policy of taking agriculture as the foundation in the Han Dynasty attracted much attention, and the cattle industry quickly entered a climax period and could last for a long time. Therefore, the proportion of beef in the whole meat is always the largest, so it can be said that beef is the first-class food in meat in Qin and Han Dynasties.
during the Han dynasty, the scale and quantity of cattle breeding increased obviously. Historical Records? In Biographies of Huo Zhi, many people have "horns and horns" and are richer than "thousands of households", and the scale of raising cattle has increased rapidly compared with the previous generation. Historical Records? Biography of Huo Zhi "cloud, and Qiao Yao" has caused thousands of horses, twice as many as cattle ""Han Shu? According to the biography, in the early years of the Western Han Dynasty, Ban Yi was bothered by "thousands of horses, cattle and sheep" and "The Book of the Later Han Dynasty"? According to the biography of Ma Yuan, at the end of the Western Han Dynasty, Ma Yuan "had thousands of cattle, horses and sheep because of his farm work in the north".
The rulers of the Han Dynasty took strict measures to protect cattle, and even banned the slaughter of farm cattle at will. As the saying goes, "those who steal horses are guilty of death, and those who steal cattle are aggravated." Bamboo Slips of Qin Tomb in Sleeping Tiger Land? Eighteen kinds of Qin laws? According to the stable garden law, if the waistline of a cattle is reduced by one inch, it is necessary to slap the person in charge ten times. The "Legal Question and Answer" also stipulates that the male and female servants who steal cattle shall be sentenced to the capital, and the civilians shall be sentenced to one year's imprisonment. "Were"? Ji of Emperor Guangwu: Emperor Guangwu's four-year imperial edict "Don't slaughter horses and cattle". Only when there is a major event in the country, can the people eat beef when the emperor "gives hundreds of cattle wine to the people". And the reflection? Wei Shu? Biography of Chen Jiao recorded that at the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty, people in Quzhou prayed for illness by killing cows for their fathers, so the government "abandoned the market" according to the law. It can be seen that cattle as the most important farming tool, rather than food, is highly valued.
in the Han dynasty, the price of cattle was also relatively high. According to Nine Chapters of Arithmetic, the price of a cow was around 1,8 yuan. Therefore, only princes and nobles and wealthy families have the conditions to slaughter cattle. In the Han Dynasty stone reliefs unearthed in Zouxian County and Tengxian County, Shandong Province, there are scenes of vertebral cows. Therefore, the poor people can't afford to buy cattle, so they can only buy them by joint venture at the time of social sacrifice, and slaughter the meat, such as "Chapter 9 Arithmetic?" The chapter "insufficient profits" contains that 126 companies buy a cow, which is a reflection of this situation.
2. Sheep and mutton are the main meat varieties in Han Dynasty. The proportion of mutton in ancient diet life has been slightly better than that of pork since the Han Dynasty. Mutton will be regarded as exquisite meat, and it will be used as a reward. In "East View of Han Ji", there are "every wax in Jianwu is given to the doctor by letters" and "one sheep is given";
after the discussion? It is recorded in the Fifth Lun Biography that in the Eastern Han Dynasty, Ma Guang, a captain, rode more and more. In winter, La Worship used "3 sheep" and "5, kilograms of meat". If each sheep produced 2 kilograms of meat, it used 6, kilograms of mutton, which also accounted for a large part of the 5, kilograms of meat. It can be seen that mutton is also one of the most important meats. In some literary works, "Lambs don't drink" is involved, but pork is rarely mentioned.
sheep is a herbivore. During the Han Dynasty, the sheep industry was relatively developed, and in addition to the grasslands in the north, a large number of sheep were raised in the inland areas. Historical Records? Biography of Huo Zhi said: "Longmen, Jieshi North Sodom, cattle, sheep."
qi min Yao Shu? When introducing pasture planting, Raising Sheep takes "one thousand sheep" as a typical example. From "a thousand sheep" to "a thousand sheep", it shows that the development of sheep industry in Han Dynasty seems to be growing exponentially.
In addition, there are often gray pottery sheep models and sheep bones unearthed in Han tombs, and there are often pictures of slaughtering and peeling sheep on Han stone reliefs. Animals made of meat, such as dogs, sheep and cows, are often unearthed in Han tombs in Yangzhou. This can also reflect the prosperity of animal husbandry in Han Dynasty.
3. In ancient times, there were many names for pigs, among which the most common ones were Zhan, tapir and dolphin. Pork, like mutton, is the main raw material of meat food in the Han Dynasty. On the kitchen map of the former balcony in Zhucheng, Shandong Province, there is a picture of an expert slaughtering pigs, with pig heads, pig livers and pig hind legs hanging on the wooden frame behind him. Due to the development of animal husbandry, people also make surplus meat into pickled products and store them. The most telling thing is that there are a large number of models of pottery pig houses, pottery pigs, jade pigs and gold-stained talc pigs buried in the Han tombs in Yangzhou. Huainanzi? In Yun Lun Xun, it is stated that "the reason why pork is a sacrifice at the time of sacrifice" is because "it is thought that the family members of the sons and daughters are often livestock and easy to get things".
During the Qin and Han Dynasties, it was common to raise pigs. For example, in the Western Han Dynasty, the slaves of the rich in Sichuan Province "herded pigs with their tips"; "Were"? Biography of Wu You mentioned that Wu You, the son of an official in the Eastern Han Dynasty, was twenty years old and was not given gifts by others. "He often herded animals in Chang Huan Ze"; "Were"? There is also a record of "herding dogs for illness" in Biography of Du Qiao.
qi min Yao Shu? The article "Raising pigs" said; "The pig nature is very aquatic grass, and the algae are so close to the shore that pigs eat it and are all fat." It is common in the literature to "graze the sea" and "Han Shu? Gong Sunhong Biography; "Pasturing in Zezhong" can be found in the Book of Later Han Dynasty? The biography of Sun Qi.
Because grazing is the main way to raise pigs in the Han Dynasty, the cost is relatively low, so the amount of pigs raised is relatively considerable. With the development of agricultural production, large-scale pig farmers appeared in the early Western Han Dynasty, taking this opportunity to make a fortune. Historical Records? As mentioned in the Biography of Huo Zhi, there are thousands of pigs in Zezhong (25 pigs), and "this person told thousands of households, etc.". Due to the rapid development of pig industry, pigs have become one of the most important meat sources in people's diet.
4. When dogs were in the Han Dynasty, people generally liked to eat dog meat, so dog meat became one of the main meats at that time. Bamboo Slips of Qin Tomb in Sleeping Tiger Land? Eighteen kinds of Qin laws? Tian Law stipulates that the people's domestic dogs enter the forbidden garden to catch animals, and the keeper of the garden can kill them and "eat their meat and enter their skin". The Book of Rites mentioned many times that Zhou Tianzi ate dog meat. "Mandarin? In Yue Yu Shang, it is recorded that Gou Jian, the king of Yue, "gets together every ten years". In order to encourage fertility, it is stipulated that "a husband (a boy), two pots of wine and a dog are born; Give birth to a woman, two pots of wine and a dolphin (pig). " From this point of view, at first, dog meat was more valuable than pork. After the Warring States Period, killing dogs has become a specialized profession, such as Nie Zheng, a chivalrous man in Historical Records, and Fan Kuai who followed Emperor Gaozu to the north and south. At first, they all took killing dogs as their profession.
The dishes made from dog meat are also very rich, which are recorded in the bamboo slips of Qin and Han Dynasties, including spiced dried dog meat, dog soup, dog celery soup, dog bitter soup, roasted dog ribs, roasted dog liver and so on. Kong Yingda in The Book of Rites? In Quli Shang, the note that "the dog who works well leads him left" says: "The big one is a dog, and the small one is a dog". From the analysis of meat samples from Mawangdui Han Tomb in Changsha, Hunan Province, it was found that the meat eaten by the Han people at that time was the small dog meat that had been kept for one year, and the piglets that were born for two months to six months were the best. It shows that when Han people eat meat, they pay more attention to its size and tenderness. Gray pottery dog models are often unearthed in Yangzhou Han tombs; In Huainanzi, pork and dog meat are mentioned together; "Thai Training" says: "Stripping dogs and burning tapirs, leveling five flavors", and the idiom "Stripping dogs and burning pigs" also comes from this.
5. Chickens often eat chicken and eggs in their daily life. Ordinary families regard "killing chickens for millet" as a home-cooked food to respect the elderly and receive guests, which shows that the Han people have a considerable understanding of the nutritional value of chicken and eggs, and the number of chickens and the output of eggs have reached a high level. The chicken industry in the Han Dynasty was very developed, and it was the largest animal breed at that time. The folk chicken industry flourished in Han Dynasty. "Miscellanies of Xijing" records that there are "ten thousand chickens will be fifty thousand chicks" in Chen Guanghan's family in Guanzhong, which is the largest chicken industry recorded in Han government documents.
Eggs, chicken skeletons, ceramic chicken models and chicken trees are often unearthed in Han tombs all over the country. Chicken trees, broilers, ducks and geese with meat are often unearthed in Han tombs in Yangzhou, Yizheng and Baoying. There are more than 1 egg shells stored in bamboo and Portuguese in Mawangdui Han Tomb in Changsha, Hunan Province. There are often records of dishes such as steamed leek eggs and detained leek eggs on unearthed calves, which shows that egg cooking was very common at that time and the eating method was basically the same as today. There is a short article of "Chicken with white soup and a pot of stewed vegetables" in the No.1 Han Tomb in Mawangdui, Changsha. There is a record of "five chicken eggs" in Juyan Han bamboo slips interpretation school. Chicken is the main meat food for festivals and hospitality in general families. Such as "The Book of Later Han Dynasty"? In Biographies of Guo Tai, in the Eastern Han Dynasty, Mao Rong, a farmer, "killed a chicken to make a meal" and Guo Tai, a guest, "set it for himself".
6. Fish During the Han Dynasty, fish also played an important role in diet. Hanshu? Geography "says:" Jiangnan is a vast area ... people eat fish and rice, and fish, hunt and cut mountains as their business ". Historical Records? Biographies of Huo Zhi call Shandong "rich in fish and salt", and Yandi, which is close to the Bohai Sea, has "the mercy of fish, salt, dates and chestnuts". It can be seen that fishery has been compared with cattle, sheep, pigs and dogs. In the period of food shortage, fish was used to make up for it. "Were"? Biography of Dong Zhuo, Dong Zhuo conquests Qiang people besieged, "food is scarce, in a hurry. It's a fake raft in the water, thinking it's fishing. " Kuloko Shen's "Coastal Soil and Water Records" said that "the land is fertile, which not only produces grains, but also fish ... Take raw fish and store it in a large earthenware, and use it in brine, which is eaten by the calendar month, thinking that it is served". It can be seen that Han people can also store raw fish with salt, which has another delicious taste.
There were many people who made a living by fishing in the Han Dynasty. The fishing industry in the Han Dynasty was developed, which provided people with rich food raw materials for eating fish and shrimp. Fish paste, fried fish and fish soup became everyone's favorite dishes. Fu Weng in Shu made a living by fishing, and Gao Feng in Nanyang "fished invisibly, and finally got home." There are many kinds of fish listed in the remaining Four Seasons Food System. The species of fish remains unearthed in Mawangdui, Changsha are also recorded: carp, crucian carp, mandarin fish and spiny bream ... Carp is the most common fish, and it is also the most consumed fish, and has become the main breeding object. Tao Zhugong's "Fish Culture Classic" recorded the related problems of carp culture. Hanshu? Liu Qing, the king of Guangling, recorded that there were ponds in the gardens of Qing Liu and fish were raised in the ponds.
Also used fish In the landlord's manor in the Eastern Han Dynasty, special fish ponds were often built for artificial feeding. Fishing gear used for waterlogging mainly includes nets, glances, harpoons and hooks. Huainanzi? Said Lin Xun summarized the fishing skills as follows: "The fisherman is quiet, detaining the boat with the dead, the net is moving, the cover is restraining it, and the shovel is lifting it. If it is different, you will get a fish." Here, the operation methods of several fishing gears are expressed by static, dynamic, restraining and lifting. These capture methods can be clearly displayed in Han portraits. "Were"? Liu Ban Chuan "contains:" Private capital fishing, to help the mouth ",especially the fishing economy in Lianjiang coastal area is particularly prominent.
In addition to the main meat varieties mentioned above, Han people also have the habit of eating animals in the water. In the bamboo slips of Han Dynasty in Juyan, we can find some short articles about internal organs of edible animals, including liver, stomach, kidney and intestine. Such as "Juyan Han Bamboo Slips and Interpretation School" Jane 286? 19B The recorded water entry includes head, neck, heart, liver, lung, trace, tongue, stomach and boundary. The bamboo slips of Juyan Han Dynasty were broken into 51.235 books containing the distribution of liver, stomach, kidney and intestine.
Second, meat cooking technology
From the above diet structure, it can be seen that the diet level in Qin and Han Dynasties was indeed greatly improved compared with the previous generation. Relatively speaking, in the Han Dynasty, the average farmer had more vegetarians, but relatively few kinds of meat. On the contrary, the nobles not only "eat meat", but also pay attention to eating meat. According to documents and unearthed objects, the cooking skills of the Han Dynasty have also developed to a fairly high level. However, eating methods such as preserved meat, roasted meat and preserved meat are commonly used by nobles to eat meat.
preserved, that is, raw meat slices, Han Shu? Biography of Dong Fangshuo: "Raw meat is delicious." It is cut with carefully selected fresh meat, and "Shuo Wen Jie Zi" says: "Fine-cut meat is also". Such as "Interpretation of Names? Interpretation of Diet: "Fine-cut the meat to make it scattered, divide it into red and white, and it will be reconciled." Han people pay attention to eating raw meat slices. The specific way to eat them is to separate the cut meat slices from the fat ones and sell them raw with seasonings. It is said that Confucius is very particular about food, "The Analects? In the hard time emerging, it is recorded that he "never tires of eating fine food, never tires of being meticulous". "Never tire of delicacy" means that the thinner the sliced meat, the better. In Youyang Miscellaneous Sister, a man named Duan Shuochang is very skilled in cooking, and the sliced meat is so thin that it can be blown. Fish can also be sliced and eaten raw, which was called "fish" in ancient times and now it is called "sashimi". Generally speaking, "sashimi" is a unique Japanese dish, but it has existed since ancient times in China. As early as the pre-Qin era, people had the habit of eating sashimi, such as The Book of Songs? Xiaoya? In June, there is a record of "drinking all the friends, hot turtles and carp", that is, "carp" is sashimi made of carp; There is also a dish of "fish" in the menu of the banquet of the scholar-officials listed in "Yili" and "Book of Rites". This is still the case in the Han Dynasty. For example, in the poem Yu Lin Lang written by the Han Yuefu, there is also a poem "Just ask me for precious dishes, and enjoy carp in a golden plate". Huainanzi? Insufficient dispersion "contains:" The case of burning is full, and the turtle is licking the carp. " Yangzhou is located between the Yangtze River and Huaihe River, bordering the sea in the east. It is a famous water town Zeguo, with rich aquatic products. It was a hobby of people at that time to like eating fish. In 1939, three complete fish bones were unearthed in the wooden stick tomb of Han Dynasty at No.7 Huchang, Yangzhou. It can be seen that the Han people loved eating fish before they died, and they never forgot it after they died.
preserved meat is raw meat, and it is inevitable that you will have a stomachache if you choose not to taste good. Hua Tuo Biography records the story that Chen Deng, the satrap of Han Guangling, "suffered from malnutrition" and asked Hua Tuo to treat the disease. Chen Deng, the prefect of Han Guangling, said, "Suddenly, I have trouble and silt in my chest, and there are worms in my chest ... The worms move with their heads red. The bust is still a raw fish. " From eating to illness, it can be seen that Chen Deng is addicted to fish.
roasting means from fire to meat, and you can know from the glyph that it refers to barbecue. The origin of barbecue with fire is very early. According to ancient records, the primitive society "Tunneling Man" invented "Tunneling to get fire, so as to turn it into irritability" and "Han Feizi? Five Stupid ",which ended the backward students who" eat like animals and drink blood "