Bold but reasonable
In the middle. Why would I say that? Because oil painting is designed as an element on clothes, this concept has existed for a long time. I think when I see this scene again, someone must have had the same idea as me, that is, can oil paintings be worn directly on my body? So I said that this idea is actually reasonable, so why should I say that this idea is bold? Because I really didn't expect Chanel to be the brand that put this idea into practice. Chanel, as an enterprise run by Cocoa Chanel, is also one of the old luxury goods enterprises. Its predecessor was actually a hat shop in coco chanel. At that time, the European millinery was very luxurious and bloated. Ironically, it is really like putting a fruit platter on your head. Coco chanel at that time,
Break the aesthetic feeling of decorative stacking
Turn to the path of minimalism. The little black hat and skirt she designed were all the rage in Europe at that time. All the celebrities came to her clothing store and asked her to customize their hats and other clothes. Then came chanel no.5, a perfume. This perfume was also created by coco chanel himself. So it is conceivable that it once again caused a sensation throughout Europe. When a celebrity attends a banquet, spray a little chanel no.5. She will be the most beautiful one at the banquet.
So from the establishment and development of Chanel, it is not difficult to see. In fact, the brand Chanel has always been a breakthrough route. So I think it seems understandable that Chanel designed impressionist oil paintings directly on the upper body this time. After all, this is the design concept of others, and this is the route they take. But it is more important to protect the rights and interests of models and maintain the current concept of stability.
We can break through, but the original foundation should not be shaken.
. Christian Belal | should not be an unknown person ... Recently, Rihanna appeared in Essence & magazine; The cover of the February issue.
The "shooting" form of this cover is quite special: a hand-painted work by artist LornaSimpon is regarded as a "headdress" and "worn" on the head of this female entrepreneur.
In fact, the cover films of this issue of Essence are all in the form of "combination of reality and reality".
What happened in the past year has greatly changed the shooting and typesetting methods of traditional media.
Because of various security factors and personnel mobility restrictions, large-scale outdoor shooting and complex scene setting are difficult;
Hand-painted covers seem to be popular again.
In fact, before the popularization of photography technology, the covers of fashion magazines were basically supported by fashion illustrators.
To some extent, it may be better to express fashion in the form of painting, whether it is color, details or the imagination space of picture construction.
The first half of last century was the golden age of fashion, during which many excellent fashion illustrators appeared. One of them, now, is the kind of existence that every designer wants to add WeChat cooperation. ...
He is Cristian Vella de.
Belal is regarded as the most "genius" among many illustrators, and in the present words, his status is enough to slash. Illustrators, artists, home designers, fashion designers and many others look.
ChristianDior, GabrielleChanel and ElsaSchiaparelli are all his close friends.
The New Year's Eve just passed is the 72nd anniversary of his death.
Christian Belal
0 1. Fashion illustration is also art.
ChristianBérard's story has no dramatic ups and downs, and there is no "failure of talent"; Due to his outstanding business ability, Belal quickly became a "star" in the industry as soon as he made his debut.
His works often appeared in French editions of Vogue, Haper'sBazaar and Annabelle in 1930s and 1940s.
His painting style is very individual and highly recognizable. You may not know his name, but you may have seen his illustrations.
Most of them are painted with water, with romantic lines and bright colors; It seems to be a flat sketch style, but the halo is very layered.
It is a poetic style that combines neo-romanticism ~ the lines are free and easy but restrained accurately, and the characters and costumes are vividly outlined in a few strokes.
His works are also very imaginative, showing a surreal style.
Belal's perspective technique and atmosphere description are also superb, showing the depth of field and artistic conception of space incisively and vividly in several seemingly random vignettes.
There is no doubt,
Belal improved the artistic level of fashion illustration,
It is not only a simple record and description of fashion, but also an influence on the formation of some designers' styles. Mr. ChristianDior once mentioned Belal's works in the documentary.
Opened a new world for him.
The BarJacket illustration he created for Dior depicts the beauty of NewLook's lines with his unique shadow and sketch method. It has also become an insurmountable classic in fashion history.
02. Fashion design generalist
Belal is not only a "recorder" of fashion, but also a "creator".
The following is an illustration drawn by Belal for Riley, schipa. He designed three clothes for Schiaparelli's "Astrology" series in autumn and winter of 1938. On the back of this cloak in the middle is a sun that blends into the face, which is a bit surreal.
Later, it became Schiaparelli's cloak, named "Apollo of Versailles", which was embroidered with gorgeous gold embroidery to show the light of the sun.
Besides, Berard also cooperates with some big companies to design and produce clothes.
Berard also designs costumes for his good friend, playwright JeanCocteau.
1946 The costume of the French version of Beauty and the Beast is made by him, which is the closest "three-dimensional presentation" of his painting style, with a neo-romantic tone.
Compared with practical ready-to-wear design, Berard's romantic nature is obviously more advantageous in the field of fashion design.
He once designed beautiful costumes for four ballet companies, including ballets russes and Champs Elysé es Ballet.
Belal worked closely with TamaraToumanova, a famous dancer at that time, and designed many costumes for her dance drama.
This beautiful tulle ballet skirt with stars that we wrote before was designed by Berard for TamaraToumanova in the ballet Cotillon!
03. All-round aesthetic designer
Besides the costume design of ballet, Berard can also give consideration to the beauty of dance.
Velarde believes that the role of stage scenery is to add color to the work, not to capture the audience's attention. So he always reduces the elements in the set and only keeps the necessary elements-
Just like his fashion illustrations, characters and costumes are the protagonists, and the environment and atmosphere are few, but the meaning is still unfinished.
1936, Moliere's drama "L'EcoledesFemmes", and the background layout of the costumes and scenes were all completed by Belal. There is only a small garden, two flower beds and five chandeliers.
Belal's pioneering work is revolutionary, which can be said to have changed the layout design of the theater.
Today, the theater still follows the way of Belal: dark red is used to attract the audience's attention, and the rest only keep light and soft colors to set off the performance.
As a vital commander-in-chief, Belal also "built" a show for exquisite miniature "fashion models" in the amazing Thé_tredelaMode (Fashion Theatre) held in post-war Paris. ...
Berard's talent in space and decoration design made him cooperate with some furniture companies and designers to design interior decoration.
Former US Vice President Nelson nelson rockefeller also specially asked Belal to design a carpet for him in an apartment on Fifth Avenue to match his original interior decoration style.
Belal's bold colors and strokes are very close to the decorative paintings of Picasso and Matisse on the wall.
Schiaparelli has a triple screen in the showroom of the fashion house, which was also painted by Bellard.
Now in the office of Guerlain's French headquarters, there is a humorous illusion visual hand-painted door, which was also written by Belal.
His paintings influenced many later designers. Is the venue where Prada202 1 men's wear was released in spring and summer a little subtly related to his paintings?
Belal also designed a lovely perfume bottle for NinaRicci's perfume Coeur-Joie.
With so many diagonal designs, we can see that Belal is very talented. It is said that even on the way to dinner with friends, he often keeps drawing on tablecloths, napkins and menus and conceiving clothes or scenery designs.
The happiest people are the waiters, who will quickly put away Belal's paintings and sell them to collectors.
04. The designer's "Beibei"
Belal, with blond hair and plump face, is said to look like a baby in a soap advertisement seen on the streets of Paris at that time. So Belal's good friends affectionately call him "Beibei".
As mentioned above, Beibei had a good personal relationship with many fashion designers at that time, and his aesthetics influenced his "girlfriends" more or less ~
Schiaparelli wrote in his autobiography "A Shocking Life"
Being appreciated and admired by Beibei, and even becoming friends, is greatly recognized by Paris social circles and intellectuals.
It is said that Belal said, "tpinkalovelycolour, isn't it?" It triggered a frenzy of using pink by Paris designers. Perhaps Schiaparelli's use of shock therapy was influenced by him.
As we all know, Schiaparelli and Chanel are sworn enemies.
But Belal and Gabriel are also good friends. Wandering between these two strong women, this kind of personality charm is extraordinary. ...
Chanel hung a decorative painting from Belal (on the ebony screen) in her apartment in hotel ritz.
Belal and Chanel are in hotel ritz, 1938.
Belal's fashion illustrations for Chanel.
And the birth of ChristianDior's NewLook is probably influenced by him-both of them-Belal's fashion illustrations and his ballet costumes emphasize the curve of women's waist. ...
ChristianBerard gave Dior a watercolor painting on the eve of his debut.
ChristianDior 1947' s fashion debut
Not only that, but now Dior's favorite "Swiss Printing" has also adopted Belal's suggestion.
Dior's first store is located in Montaigne Avenue. The walls, furniture and boxes are decorated with Ruy prints. Mr. Dior's memoir "DiorbyDior" records:
It was Beibei who suggested that we hang Swiss printed cloth in the store and put hat cartons with the name of the store around, including the top of the wardrobe and every corner. At first glance, it seems to be chaos, but it gives life.
Belal also inspired YvesSaintLaurent's love of fashion.
As we mentioned earlier, Belal designed costumes and scenery for Girls' School. Young YSL just finished watching the play, "
I feel extremely touched, the most unusual feeling in my life.
",began to try to do their own small theater, using mother's waste cloth and old sheets to make clothes. I was immediately moved by the power of Belal. He asked me to determine the direction I want to devote myself to, and I want to design scripts like him. He knows how to shape characters, he knows how to make clothes, and he grasps the essence of outline and time. He remodeled his clothes.
Belal's design and fashion illustrations have always been the main source of inspiration for YvesSaintLaurent. From some hand-painted paintings left by YSL, it is not difficult to see that his painting style has the shadow of Belal.
In February 1949, 1 1, Belal stood up from the stage when designing the scenery and costumes for the drama Scarpan's Trick, and suffered a heart attack and fell down on the stage forever.
For a genius who loves stage and design, this may be a very dramatic but magnificent way to leave.
Almost all artists and intellectuals in Paris attended his memorial service, and Beibei was deeply missed by everyone.
The fashion circle has never forgotten his existence. Givenchy paid tribute to ChristianBerard in the autumn/winter series of 1987, and adopted Berard's illustrations for the show set and costume design.
There are several skirts in AnnaSui 1995' s spring/summer collection, all of which are extracted from the fabric designed by Berard for ZikaAscher in the 1940s and recolored to make it glow with new vitality.
Bellard Askell fabric
AnnaSui 1995SS
On the occasion of Dior's 60th anniversary, JohnGalliano, who was in charge of Dior at that time, did not forget the deep relationship between the brand and ChristianBerard, and designed a dress to pay tribute to Berard.
Schiaparelli 2065438+Spring/Summer 2005 has several look prints, which are deeply influenced by Berard's painting style.
ChristianBérard, a genius who influenced many fashion designers in the last century, deserves everyone's memory.
The hottest fashion illustrator of our time! How is it made? He is the hottest illustrator and the best spokesman for fashion. David downton, 1959 was born in London. Since childhood, the best treatment for him is a blank sheet of paper. However, what David didn't expect was that after a long time, he could also make a living by painting. ▲ david downton was also painting when he was young ▲ The studio has its own paintings, no less than Picasso's studio. ▲ You can create amazing works on an "interesting and knowledgeable" workbench. David first studied graphic design. His first job was to design the cover of a computer magazine in the early 1980s. ▲ david downton's 1998 fashion illustration in new york. Made of ink and cellulose acetate paper. ▲ david downton's 1998 fashion illustration for Christine Lacroix is made of ink box paper. David worked as a freelance illustrator for 15 years. No matter what happens, he enjoys the life of a freelance illustrator. ▲ 1999 illustration of fashion designed by david downton for jean paul gaultier of jean paul. Black dress with black sunglasses is more brilliant. David takes Kate Moss as the prototype and shows the classic charm of fashion with popular style. This work is quite famous in the fashion world, and it is one of the most representative works in the field of fashion illustration in recent years. ▲ 1999 fashion illustration shot by david downton for Valentino. Similar to Lacroix, Eric and others, his colors are full of modernity. ▲ david downton 1999 London fashion illustration PalomaPicasso. Is made of gouache, ink box paper and cellulose acetate paper. ▲ david downton 1999 completed paper-cut bottle stickers in London, with Iman as the model. Pan Tong paper is coated with cellulose acetate paper and then coated with ink. David's works are simple and smooth in lines, very textured and unpretentious in style, which can well show his beautiful posture. Because of this unique painting style, someone began to invite him to be a fashion illustrator. Among them, the 85-year-old mythical figure Carmen Dell'Orefice is also one of David's muses. ▲ david downton's fashion illustration in new york in 2000 was modeled by Carmen Dale Orpheus and designed by ThierryMugler. This painting was first painted on Pan Tong paper with an oil pastel, covered with cellulose acetate paper, and then painted with ink. ▲ david downton 200 1 Portrait of Anna Peggy, editor-in-chief of a famous European fashion magazine. He successfully captured the soul of this "fashion godmother". Exaggerated color matching, playful expression, unruly attitude, combined with seemingly wild but very skillful brushwork ~ perfect! ▲ david downton painted a portrait of Amanda Harriet, the design director of Chanel in 2002. He has always admired artists like Lacroix, Antonio and Eric. So early painting styles, colors and lines all have similarities. 1996 made illustrations for high fashion shows for magazines, 1997 began to be active in Paris high fashion shows. At first, he was dazzled and totally unprepared, but the Paris fashion show really inspired an artist. Paris has the most beautiful women and the best designs. Everything here is fascinating. David never paints when the model walks on the catwalk. Because he found it impossible, he just took pictures or watched and really felt every moving moment. He seized any other opportunity to paint, and any time when the model was still could not escape his eyes. For example, when trying on clothes, sometimes even when the model is resting at the press conference ... ▲ Cosmetics are also his tools, touching and suitable for two colors. David said: "When I first started painting, I thought it was my responsibility to restore clothes according to the catwalk on the stage." However, the first time I attended a fashion show was at Versace's show. Before Kate Moss disappeared, I only drew her arm! Therefore, it is the best choice to appreciate any details displayed by the current model. "▲ The draft is also moving. David thinks that the most important thing is the feeling of the body under the surface of the clothes, and then some details such as proportion and color. However, this is more difficult to do. ▲ The draft also moved David to draw countless design sketches and then choose the best. When the drawings were almost the same, he began to eliminate them and carry out "decomposition-reconstruction". He kept painting until they looked natural. He writes fashion reports for famous media all over the world, such as The Times, The Independent and Fashion Evening News (Australian Edition). He has held three solo exhibitions in London and one in new york. In recent years, he also designed visual images for shopping centers in Hong Kong and drew illustrations for Vogue women's fashion series. ▲ In 2004, david downton painted the cover of Saturday Evening Post. This work was created in Paris and made of gouache, watercolor and paper. ▲ Advertising poster designed by david downton for Topshop's fashion show in September 2004. This brand is the work of young designers. ▲ david downton was commissioned by Vogue (China Edition) in 2005 as an illustrator of ValentionFitting. Is made of ink, gouache, paper and cellulose acetate paper. ▲ david downton's fashion illustration for YSL in 2006. The materials are ink, watercolor and paper. ▲ david downton's fashion illustration for YSL in 2006 consists of ink, gouache, charcoal pen and paper. ▲ david downton is a fashion illustration commissioned by Madame magazine (German edition) in 2007. This painting is first painted on paper with an oil pastel, covered with cellulose acetate paper, and then painted with ink and gouache. ▲ david downton's illustrations were commissioned by The Times of London in 2007. The materials are ink, gouache and paper. ▲ david downton drew an illustration for his magazine PourquoiPas in 2008. The model is Tita Wantis, and the costume is designed by Lacroix. The materials are ink, gouache and paper, and the cellulose acetate paper is covered with a film. Does David paint the dancers incisively and vividly ~ If you want to grind kung fu into needles ~ If you want to have the ability to surpass others, you must practice your own ability to the extreme!