Rural soy sauce has its own flavor, and each soy sauce has a different taste.
As early as the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the ancestors of Manchu people began to make soy sauce. According to the historical records (Jin Shi), "The coastal area in the hometown of Liao and Jin is rich in salt, and the two roads in Shangjing and Northeast China eat Zhaozhou salt. Jurchen uses beans as sauce to make soybean sauce, which is seasoned with garlic, mustard and vinegar, and made sweets with honey instead of sugar. The main ingredients of soybean sauce are soybeans and salt. Soybeans are first planted in western Liaoning, and sea salt is also abundant in southern Liaoning. Liaoning miso is the first northeast miso in China.
Some friends said that miso was invented by Koreans. The Biography of Bohai Sea in the New Tang Dynasty recorded "the black bean sauce in the gate city" and "the gate city", which was the former government of Ryuhara, Tokyo at that time, roughly in Hunchun City, Jilin Province, and the black bean sauce was the prototype of miso. In Heilongjiang, Liaoning Province, there are many kinds of bean paste, and in Jilin Province, there is a kind of Qing sauce in Yanbian area. They are all northeast sauces, and their tastes are different. There is a little difference in taste. Bean paste is sweeter, Jilin pan sauce is fresher, and Qing sauce has a strong smell.
In the twelfth lunar month, we need to stir-fry beans to make chunks of soy sauce, while Manchu people make soy sauce and Korean people make sauces. The sauces use different raw materials, and the other processes are similar. The sauces need soybeans and corn to be fried and crisp and ground into powder, and eventually they are all made into chunks. Bean paste and sauces are fermented in the same way, and the date and time are similar. When the old people say that they stir-fry beans, they should choose a day without crescent moon, otherwise the sauces will grow maggots in summer. There is no scientific basis for this theory now. Soy sauce is a microbial fermentation process based on soybean protease. After many days of fermentation, soybean protein is decomposed into various amino acids, and the first umami taste of plants comes out here.
In the past, there was a saying about the number of pieces of soy sauce made in rural areas. The number of pieces of soy sauce was even in normal years and odd in leap years. Now you can make a few pieces at will. In April of the lunar calendar, you usually choose the eighth day of April, April 18th and 28th, and you must finish the soy sauce on April 28th. In April of the lunar calendar, the temperature is not high, and the soy sauce slowly ferments and tastes good. If the temperature is high in May, the soy sauce will easily produce odor. Cover the sauce jar with a layer of paper or other gauze that is air-permeable and ash-impermeable to prevent insects from entering. After the sauce is poured, pour the sauce in the sauce jar several times with a sauce rake, and you have to stir it every three or four days. After one month, the color of the sauce will turn yellow. At this time, there are basically no fragments inside, so you can scoop it out and taste it almost. Every sauce will have a different taste. Nowadays, young people have lost the ability to make big sauce.
Sauce can be dipped in vegetables, pickled vegetables, stir-fried vegetables, stewed vegetables, or made into miso soup. There are many kinds of miso in Northeast China. The main reason for making miso is that the winter in Northeast China is too long, almost half a year's winter, and vegetables in Northeast China are extremely scarce. Sauce and kimchi are the main ingredients for half a year, which is also the taste inherited from generations. The main reason why many Northeast people like to eat miso is the inheritance of traditional culture. Another point is that the umami flavor of the cooking process comes from various amino acid decomposition products in the sauce.
Many people say that there is no sauce dish to eat in winter in Northeast China. It is best for people to cool the boiled frozen cabbage with cold water, knead it into a ball and eat it with soy sauce. There are no vegetables dipped in soy sauce, and some vegetables can be stored in the cellar, such as carrots, green radishes and white radishes, and some can be stored outdoors, such as green onions. It is said that radish dipped in soy sauce is very refreshing in winter, and the flavor of these side dishes is not inferior to that of meat now. This is another reason why people in Northeast China like to eat soy sauce. sauce dish tastes good. Northeast people are so obsessed with soy sauce that there is also a disadvantage. Heavy taste will affect people's cardiovascular system, that is, there are more hypertension diseases. With the development of society and the progress of economy, the traditional high-salt soy sauce may be farther and farther away from us, but the sauce culture in the bones still exists.
Older people in the northeast prefer to eat soy sauce, but they don't like it much in their children's generation. Because there are all kinds of sauces in the supermarket now, the brands are diverse and the choices are wide, sweet and spicy. In addition, it is difficult to find the real flavor of farm sauce in rural areas, which is close to being lost. None of us will cook farm sauce after 60, which is a long-lost taste!
It seems that until the year before last, my parents insisted on making a little soy sauce every year. For many traditional northeastern families, soy sauce is indeed an indispensable seasoning, which is similar to the feelings of Beijingers for sesame sauce, Shanxi people for aged vinegar and so many people for peppers.
In fact, the reasons why people in Northeast China like to eat soy sauce are not complicated, basically in two aspects: one is the eating habits brought by historical traditions.
Since ancient times, people in China have had the habit of eating soybean paste, which is one of the magical uses of soybeans by the ancients. In the Western Han Dynasty, Shi You wrote "Jijiu Pian", which recorded "turnip salt and soy sauce". In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, Manchu people also began to make soybean sauce, and in the Twenty-four History, there was a description of Jurchen's "soy sauce".
It is also said that the reason why Manchu people like to eat soy sauce is related to Nurhachi's years of campaign, and the soldiers are getting weaker and weaker in the midst of displacement, so Nurhachi will collect soy sauce from the local people everywhere. Using soybean milk with wild vegetables can not only satisfy the stomach, but also replenish a lot of salt and amino acids for soldiers in time, thus maintaining combat effectiveness. Later, the Manchu entered the customs to establish the Qing Dynasty. In order to make future generations not forget the difficulties of their ancestors, they should also prepare sauce and sauce dish in the imperial meals of the Qing Palace, and this eating habit gradually spread.
Secondly, this kind of high-salt sauce is more suitable in cold regions.
Many people should be able to easily understand this reason, which is similar to the reason why people like spicy food in warm and humid places where people taste light and cold. The three northeastern provinces are located in the cold regions with high latitudes and have relatively distinct climates. Simply put, it is extremely hot in summer, extremely cold in winter, and the winter is longer. This kind of climate will make people prefer high-calorie and high-salt food, because it is necessary for survival, especially in ancient times.
Moreover, in the past, there was no such developed vegetable planting technology and means of transportation, so in winter, the vegetables on the table of the Northeast people were very limited. In the early years, they relied on storage-resistant potatoes, cabbage, radishes and the like, as well as dried vegetables and wild vegetables preserved in advance to spend the cold winter. However, these foods are tasteless and lack necessary nutrients such as amino acids, so it is the turn of the sauce to "save" it.
Therefore, it is normal that many people in Northeast China like to eat soy sauce, but with the development of science and technology and the diversification of diet, fewer people are willing to make soy sauce and young people eat less, which may be the inevitable development of the times.
The general practice of northeast miso:
Simply put, it is to cook the soybeans (this "cooking" means cooking them with a small amount of water), then make them into large pieces of sauce blanks to dry, and finally wrap them in paper and wait for fermentation (at least 2 months). When the sauce is placed, the ratio of sauce pieces to salt is about 2 1 to 3 1. Add water to the washed sauce jar and mix. Then turn it up and down with a sauce rake every day (the rake can only be pure wood, and it is best to be tasteless wood), and the sauce will be ready in about 1 month (it is important to rake the sauce every day, but it must be done)
However, although soy sauce is the flavor sauce in my hometown, it must be admitted that the traditional soy sauce with high salt content is really not recommended for a long time. Many of my parents and elders have problems such as high blood pressure to varying degrees. Going to the doctor basically said that it is inseparable from the perennial high salt diet. After all, the diet structure of modern people is far from that of the ancients. Traditional crafts and food culture can be inherited and appreciated, but personal eating habits should keep pace with the times.
Is there a similar delicious sauce in your hometown? What do you think is the best sauce? Welcome to share your comments with us!
Friends who are interested in food, healthy diet and food anecdotes can pay attention and praise, and share interesting and useful related content together in the future! There are some special eating habits in various places. The custom that the northeast people love to eat soy sauce has a long history and has become a habit in people's lives, just as Shandong likes pancakes, Sichuan likes peppers, and Indians like curry.
There is absolutely no need for soy sauce on the dining table in Northeast China, and it is also because of soy sauce that the cuisines in Northeast China have a unique flavor. Almost all dishes in sauce dish, farmers' bumper harvest, eggplant with soy sauce, tofu with soy sauce, crucian carp with soy sauce and beef with soy sauce need soy sauce as the main seasoning. Northeast people love to eat soy sauce for the following reasons:
1. Survival needs: The winter in Northeast China is very cold, and vegetables can't grow in the farmland from October to May of next year. Therefore, the problem of a family eating vegetables in the whole winter needs to be solved and reserved. Cabbage, potatoes and radishes taste light every day, so make some soy sauce to adjust the taste, enrich the table and get enough nutrition.
Second, it has a long history: As early as the Sui and Tang Dynasties in Northeast China, the ancestors of the Manchu in Bohai began to plant soybeans. At that time, the people began to have a tradition of making soy sauce with soybeans, and the custom has been maintained to this day. "Biography of the New Tang Dynasty and Bohai Sea" records "the black bean in the gate city", which is a famous local specialty food.
3. High-quality raw materials: The land resources in Northeast China are fertile, and the planting environment such as frost-free period, accumulated growth temperature and annual precipitation is very suitable for the growth of soybean crops, so the quality of soybeans produced is very good, and good raw materials produce good food, so Northeast China not only likes to eat soy sauce, but also likes to eat other dried tofu, water tofu and other bean products.
Therefore, the above three aspects determine the eating habits in Northeast China. No matter whether it is spring, summer, autumn and winter, soy sauce is indispensable on the dining table. In the former countryside, every household must have a big sauce jar, and the level of soy sauce making by women has become the standard for judging whether women are hardworking or not.
Soybeans are smashed into a square, and the cellar in the tank becomes a hundred times fragrant; Dip in vegetables, mix vegetable soup and scoop up a spoonful of oily water. This mystery also fully explains the northeast people's love for soy sauce. Before the reform and opening up, there were no vegetables to eat in Northeast China for more than half a year. In winter, you can still eat stored cabbage, potatoes and radishes. After the spring, you can only eat pickles and soy sauce every day. In the long run, many cooking methods of soy sauce have been created, which has become a habit that generations can't change. Although there are more vegetables and rich products now, sauce dish still has a seat on the dining table of Northeast Hotel.
The climate in the northeast is suitable for making soy sauce. My uncle came to Beijing from the northeast and wanted to marinate soy sauce, but the results were stinky, and he couldn't make it at all. One side is rich in water and soil, and the local people can eat whatever they can. There was nothing to eat in winter, unlike the food in the south all year round, and there was nothing to eat in the northeast. When I was a child, I always fried Chili sauce and fried egg sauce, but there was nothing to eat, and it was even more tasteless not to eat soy sauce.
Traditional Chinese medicine says that salty water enters the kidney, and the winter in Northeast China is longer, especially when there was nothing to do before. When there was no electricity, I went to bed early, and my sexual life was estimated to be more, so I consumed a lot of kidney, so I ate salty tonics. This is my personal analysis, which is not necessarily correct. The Yellow Emperor's Internal Classic does say that salt has entered the kidney.
There is soy sauce. In spring, the side dishes in the garden are the earliest fresh vegetables, which are just dipped in soy sauce. This period of time is very long. The fruit-bearing vegetables are not mature yet, and they are eaten in sauce dish for a long time, which gives the reason for the existence of soy sauce for a long time.
Soy sauce is the soul of northeast cuisine, and all the blood in the northeast is soy sauce. . I still think that the best things to eat in time are mother's fried egg sauce, Chinese cabbage, coriander, scallion and stuffy rice, and the wrapped rice bag is the best thing in the world. . Hebei calls miso miso miso. It's strange that miso from the northeast smells bad when brought to Hebei. But eating in the northeast doesn't have that strange smell, and maybe it has something to do with the climate! In Heilongjiang, women say that their family can't live any longer, or they don't always live at home. They will say that their family doesn't even have big sauce. There's not even sauce. It's the children's responsibility to cover the sauce jar when it rains. Who in the countryside doesn't have a mouthful of sauce jar? Slowly, there is a shortage of vegetables in the cold winter, and it is the sauerkraut with big sauce that raised us. . In winter, soy sauce and poor Chinese onion, cabbage and radish are the main sources of vitamin C supplementation. When you don't have fresh vegetables to eat in the cold winter for several months, you will understand why people in Northeast China eat raw and storable vegetables with soy sauce. After the cold winter, the grass has just sprouted, and people all over the city go out to dig wild vegetables, and eat a little fresh green food with a big bowl of soy sauce all over the table, which means that the whole family has survived the cold winter to welcome spring! Soy sauce, sauce dish is the cornerstone of the taste and taste of the northeast people. Not comparable to chicken, duck and fish. . . The rest may be countless frozen jiaozi that can't be eaten all winter. Heilongjiang is basically floating in the ocean of jiaozi all winter!
I was born and raised in the northeast, and I loved to eat soy sauce when I was a child. At that time, every family in the countryside made their own soy sauce, and there was a pickles factory in the city. Now recalling the fragrance of soy sauce, I still feel endless aftertaste! Northeast people love to eat soy sauce, which is directly related to the fact that northeast people love to eat sauce dish.
Dishes flavored with soy sauce are indeed thicker than those that are not used.
Why did Laozi write the Tao Te Ching? Eating big sauce with us is an answer!