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How to eat mandarin fish?
Yin Jishan, the governor of the two rivers in Qing Dynasty, held a high position, which gave him the opportunity to taste the most precious delicacies in the world. Among them, one of his favorite foods is deer tail, which is considered to be the first delicious food in the world.

The problem is that deer tail is produced in the north, and it is difficult to get it in Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces. Even if it comes, it's not new. Yin Jishan's good friend Yuan Mei once got a deer tail. When he ate it, he wrapped it in vegetable leaves and steamed it in a pot. The taste is different, and the most wonderful thing is a slurry on the deer tail.

Liang Zhangju, the author of Wandering Tales, also likes deer tail. When Liang Zhangju was working in Beijing, a large number of deer tails were donated every winter, which gave him a chance to feast his eyes. Later, when I went out to work, I still had a chance to enjoy the deer tail. Generally speaking, Liang Zhangju's wife will cook and slice it herself.

When I was working in Guilin, it was far from the capital. Fortunately, people often come and go, and I can also bring a deer tail. When Liang Zhangju was in Guilin, he wrote "Who is careful on a cold night, this taste is the most unforgettable in the spring", which was about the delicious deer tail, which was passed down as a good sentence in the local area.

After retirement, Liang Zhangju never had a chance to taste the deer tail again. Obviously, deer tail, as a high-grade food, is an accessory of power and has little to do with money and region. At this point, Liang Zhangju can only search for the wonderful taste of deer tail in his memory.

Also related to the deer tail is the deer tendon. It is more complicated to make, because the deer tendon is not easy to stew and has a strong smell. Generally, it is necessary to make it a few days in advance, boil it, change the water several times, and clean the odor. One method is to simmer with chicken soup or broth without auxiliary materials, season with autumn oil and wine, thicken slightly, and finally sprinkle a little pepper.

Another method is to add ham, winter bamboo shoots, mushrooms and so on. Stew with chicken soup without thickening to make deer tendon soup.

Yin Jishan likes to eat sturgeon besides lo-mei. He thinks his sturgeon dishes are unparalleled in the world. Yuan Mei once tasted the sturgeon from Yin Fu and thought it was not the best. The main problem is that the stew is too long, rotten and the taste is heavy.

Here, Yuan Mei referred to sturgeon and bighead carp as bighead carp, and thought that the proper way for bighead carp was to fry the locust fillets. The method is to slice mandarin fish, fry it in oil, add wine and autumn oil, and fry it. The seasoning is mainly onion and ginger, and the dosage is large. Yuan Mei once ate this kind of fried mandarin fish slices in a surnamed tang family in Suzhou. It was delicious.

The other is the method of making sturgeon. First, the sturgeon is cooked with clear water, then the flesh and blood are processed and separated, and the fish meat and bones are cut into small pieces respectively. Cook the fish bones in the prepared chicken soup until they are medium-cooked, add wine and autumn oil, finally add the fish, simmer for a while, then add the onion, leek and pepper, and pour in a large glass of ginger juice. In this way, the heat of fish bones and fish meat is separated, and the two are cooked more evenly.

Yin Jishan and Yuan Mei are a pair of gourmets, nominally teachers and students. In fact, they are very close and casual, just like a family.

Yuan Mei often goes to Yin Fu, and there are many concubines around Yin Jishan. He doesn't shy away from Yuan Mei either. He often asks him about poetry face to face and calls him "Mr. Yuan" directly. Yuan Mei sometimes went to Yin Fu and met Yin Jishan who was handling affairs in the yamen. He went straight to the inner court and waited, but he didn't see anything outside.

The most exaggerated time, Yin Jishan wanted to invite Yuan Mei to his home for a drink. After waiting for a long time, Yuan Mei didn't come. He sent someone to hurry, but he couldn't find where Yuan Mei was. Yin Jishan had to go home. It never occurred to him that Yuan Mei had arrived in Yin Fu. He and his concubines set out for dinner and had already had a drink together. Yin Jishan laughed, and even wrote a special song "Mountain Pivot".

Yin Zhoushan likes to write poems, and there are often poems between him and Yuan Mei. Every time Yuan Mei has a new book, he gives it to Yin Jishan for appreciation. Yin Jishan immediately reply, send someone gallop, send the manuscript to Yuan Mei, extremely fast.

The next time Yuan Mei thought of a good idea, he wrote such a poem: "If you know many people, you can spread it. Don't let the horse be the first." If you fail to teach today, you will learn new poetry next year. "

After the poem was written, Yuan Mei was in no hurry to send it, and waited until New Year's Eve, nearly midnight, before sending it to Yin Jishan. At this point, no matter how fast Yin Jishan reacted, He Ying's poems could not be delivered to Yuan Mei before midnight.

Yin Jishan smiled, such a joke, he likes. Later, when Yin Jishan was seriously ill, his poems were everywhere on the bed. Because Emperor Qianlong is coming to inspect the mansion, he asked his family to tidy up.

Yin Jishan died in Qianlong thirty-six years, at the age of seventy-seven.

Author: Yu Zuo