Lily symbolizes a hundred years of harmony. It is not only often seen in marriage, but also a very popular New Year's Eve flower nowadays.
Many flower lovers want to plant lilies at home to make their rooms beautiful, but they don't know how to conserve lilies. Today, I will introduce the methods of conserving lilies.
first, the growth habits of lilies
lilies prefer cool and humid to high temperature. I like sunshine, avoid drought, avoid heat, and have poor cold tolerance. The optimum growth temperature of Asian lily and Oriental lily is 2-25℃ in daytime, 25-28℃ in musk lily, and the night temperature is above 14℃.
When the temperature is higher than 3℃, the growth and development of lily will be seriously affected, bud elimination will occur, and the flowering rate will be obviously reduced. When the temperature is lower than 1~C, the growth will almost stagnate.
If the temperature is lower than 5 degrees for 5-7 days at night in winter, it will seriously affect flower bud differentiation and development, resulting in delayed flowering, even blindness and flower cracking.
Second, lily's choice of soil
Lily likes slightly acidic soil, and the suitable soil ph value of Asia and Lilium longiflorum is 6-7, and that of Oriental Lily is 5.5-6.5; Lily is generally not salt-tolerant.
Lily requires good soil drainage and is not easy to harden. It is best to use sandy loam with rich humus, deep and loose soil layer, which can keep proper humidity and good drainage. Lily can never be planted in clay.
3. Preparation before planting
1. Soil disinfection: 8-1g/m2 of carbendazim powder is sprinkled into the soil for disinfection; Or use 4% formalin to make 1:5 or 1:1 times of liquid medicine and sprinkle the soil, the dosage is 2.5 kg/m2, after sprinkling, cover it with plastic film for 5-7 days, and then plant it after 1-15 days.
2. Sterilization of seed balls: unpack the seed balls immediately after arrival, thaw them at 1-15℃, and sterilize them after complete thawing.
disinfection method: soak the seed balls in 1 times of water solution such as carbendazim, carbendazim or potassium permanganate for 3 minutes; You can also soak the seed balls in 8 times of 4% formalin solution for 3 minutes, rinse the residual solution on the seed balls with clear water after taking them out, and then dry them in a cool place before planting.
before planting, cut off the original basal roots, which is beneficial to promote the development of new basal roots.
3. Storage of seed balls: If the thawed seed balls can't be planted immediately, they can't be frozen again, otherwise there is a danger of freezing injury. They can be stored at -2℃, but only for two weeks at most; It can also be stored at 2-5℃ for up to one week, and the plastic film package must be opened at the same time.
IV. Planting depth and density
Lily bulbs should be planted in Yichun season and summer, and the planting depth should be 8-lOcm from the top of bulbs to the ground and 6-8cm in winter.
The planting density varies with varieties, bulb sizes and seasonal factors. In spring and summer, it can be planted densely, and it should be planted thinly when the sun is weak in winter.
5. Management after planting
1. Temperature control: In order to promote rooting, the soil temperature should be kept at a low temperature of 9-13 degrees within 3-4 weeks after planting.
If the temperature is too low, it will unnecessarily prolong the growth period, while if the temperature is higher than 15℃, it will lead to poor rooting development.
after the rooting period, the ambient temperature of oriental lily should be controlled at 15-25℃, and that of Asian lily and musk lily should be controlled at 14- 23℃.
If the temperature is too high during the day, ventilation and shading should be used to reduce the temperature; If the night temperature reaches 15-25℃, the cut lily flowers will have short stems, few buds and low quality.
2. Humidity management: Before planting, it is better to hold the soil tightly together and fall loosely. In the high temperature season, before planting, if possible, cold water should be poured once to reduce the soil temperature.
after planting, water is poured again to make the soil fully contact with the seed bulbs, thus creating good conditions for the development of stem rooting. In the future, the standard of watering is to keep the soil moist, that is, it is appropriate to hold a handful of soil in hand but not to give water.
watering is usually done in sunny mornings. The relative humidity should be 8%-85%, and the relative humidity should avoid too much fluctuation, otherwise leaf burning may occur.
3. Fertilization management: Lily has a great demand for potassium, so compound fertilizer can be prepared according to the ratio of N-P2O5-K2O = 14: 7: 21. Apply once every 1-15 days until 3 weeks before picking flowers.
4. Lighting management: The development of lily flower buds especially needs sufficient lighting. Insufficient light will cause poor plant growth, bud drop of lily, lighter leaf color and flower color, and shortened vase life.
In winter, full sunlight can be accepted for planting, and in summer, direct sunlight should be avoided. Generally, shading nets are used for shading. Asian and musk lilies shade 4%, and Oriental lilies shade 5%.
Lilies can be harvested after 2-3 buds are transparent. Premature harvesting will affect the color, the flowers will look pale and ugly, and some buds will not open.
VI. Common diseases and insect pests of lily and their control methods
Several common diseases of lily include lily mosaic, bulb rot, spot disease and leaf blight.
1. Lilium mosaic disease: This disease is also called Lilium latent mosaic disease. At the onset of the disease, uneven chlorosis spots or withered spots appear on the leaves. The injured plants are short, the leaf edges are curled, the leaf deformation is small, and sometimes spindle-shaped light brown spots appear on the petals, and the flowers are deformed and difficult to open.
control methods: ① select virus-free bulbs to keep seeds; ② Strengthen the prevention and control of aphids and leafhoppers; ③ If the diseased plants are found, pull them out and destroy them in time.
2. Spot disease: At the initial stage of the disease, faded spots appeared on the leaves, and after expansion, they became brown spots with dark brown edges. After that, many small black spots were produced in the center of the lesion. In severe cases, the whole leaf turned black and died.
control method: remove diseased leaves and spray with 5 times diluted solution of 65% zineb wettable powder once to prevent spreading.
3. Bulb rot: After the onset, the bulb produces brown spots, and finally the whole bulb is brown rot.
prevention and treatment: at the initial stage of the disease, 5% amobam 3 times solution can be irrigated.
4. Leaf blight: It mostly occurs on leaves, starting from the tips and stems of the lower leaves. After the onset, irregular round or oval lesions of different sizes are produced on the stems, and the lesions are light yellow to grayish brown due to different varieties. In severe cases, the whole leaf dies.
control methods: ① pay attention to ventilation and light transmission in greenhouse cultivation and strengthen management; ② Remove diseased leaves at the early stage of the disease, and spray 1% equal Bordeaux solution or 8-1 times of 5% wettable powder for 3-4 times on the 7th-1th day.
VII. Common problems in lily maintenance
1. Leaves scorched
Symptoms: First, young leaves curl inward slightly, and after a few days, yellow to white spots appear on the scorched leaves.
if the leaf scorch is light, the plant can continue to grow normally, but if the leaf scorch is serious, the white spots can turn brown, and the leaves bend at the injury place.
In severe cases, all leaves and buds will fall off and the plant will not develop further, which is called "the most serious scorch".
reason: poor root development; Unreasonable fertilization and excessive nitrogen fertilizer lead to excessive growth, and the growth speed of plants and roots does not match; Lily plants lack calcium; The temperature changes rapidly and the relative humidity changes too much, which makes the stem and leaf lose more water than the root absorbs water.
Spraying pesticides and foliar fertilizer with too high concentration is more likely to harm young leaves and lead to leaf burning, especially when the temperature is too high; Avoid water accumulation at the top of the plant, so when leaf burning occurs, don't spray water at the top of the plant.
prevention: the soil should be moistened before planting; It is best not to use susceptible varieties; The planting depth should be appropriate, and there should be 6-1 cm soil layer above the bulb;
To ensure a good root system of the plant, at the initial stage of planting cut lily, irrigate the root with 5-8 times of Kuaibao for 2-3 times; Avoid excessive humidity change after planting, and spray water several times a day on sunny days;
Before flower bud differentiation, that is, when the seedling height is 3-4cm and the leaf burning is sensitive, spraying .1% calcium nitrate or CameoTM calcium-merol chelated microelement fertilizer (diluted by 1 times) for 2-3 times, once every 5 days, can reduce leaf burning;
In summer, non-leaf burning varieties such as Sorbonne and Siberia should be selected, and medium-sized bulbs should be selected.
2. Falling buds and shrinking buds
Symptoms: When the buds grow to 1-2 cm, falling buds will appear. The color of the bud turns to light green, at the same time, the pedicel connected with the stem is shortened, and then the bud falls off. In spring, the low buds will be affected first, and in autumn, the high buds will fall off first.
control: don't plant varieties that are easy to fall off buds in poor light. In order to prevent the buds from shrinking, bulbs should not be dried during cultivation. Ensure that the root system of bulbs is good and let them grow in the most suitable conditions, especially pay attention to light and transpiration;