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Can red milk grapes be cut?

Can be cut.

Grape cutting seedlings are divided into hard branch cuttings and twig cuttings. Hardwood cuttings are a commonly used method for raising seedlings. It uses the annual branches with the characteristics of the variety cut in winter as cutting materials. Usually, each cutting branch has 2 to 3 buds. For rare varieties, single bud cuttings can be used. Relevant preparations should be made before cutting hard branches.

(1) Selection of nursery sites. The nursery land should be sandy loam or loam with flat terrain, loose soil, close to water sources, and easy drainage and irrigation. Convenient management should also be considered, leaving production paths and drainage and irrigation ditches.

Before the nursery ground freezes in winter, it is necessary to plow about 50 centimeters deep, then mix superphosphate (50 kilograms per mu) and organic fertilizer (ring manure, manure, compost, 3,000 kilograms per mu) and spread it. Rake the surface roughly once, then rake finely again next spring after the frost begins. When the soil moisture is poor, the soil should be watered thoroughly and then ridged and trimmed for later use. In northern areas, ridge planting is often used to raise seedlings, which is beneficial to cold protection, heat preservation, and moisture retention.

Attention should be paid to crop rotation in nursery areas to avoid continuous cropping. It is best not to use potato and solanaceous vegetable gardens in the previous crop to avoid damage by diseases and insect pests.

(2) Choose good cuttings. Take the cuttings out of the storage ditch and cut them to the required length. The length of single-bud cuttings is 5 to 10 cm. The length of double- or triple-bud cuttings is 10 to 20 cm. The thickness of the cuttings is more than 0.5 cm. The length of the internodes is They are uniform, with full buds and eyes, and the pith does not exceed one-third of the diameter of the cuttings. The skin of the cuttings is yellow to reddish brown and free of diseases and insects. When cutting, cut the upper end of the cutting flatly 1 cm away from the buds, and cut the lower end 0.5 cm diagonally close to the node. You can even cut it on the node. This is because the node stores a lot of nutrients and is easy to germinate. root. After the cuttings are cut, tie every 50 or 100 pieces into a bundle for root stimulation or cutting use.

(3) Dip the strip before inserting. Put the cut cuttings into bundles and soak them in clean water for 12 to 24 hours, until the cutting edges turn bright green and are saturated with water.

In order to improve the survival rate of cutting seedlings, drug treatment is often used to promote rooting. Usually, the base 1 to 2 centimeters of the bundled cuttings are dipped in the drug. But be careful not to apply medicine to the top buds of the cuttings. Commonly used agents include: indole acetic acid 40~50 mg/kg, sodium naphthalene acetate 100 mg/kg, soak for 12~24 hours; indole butyric acid 100 mg/kg for 12 hours, or 200~300 mg/kg for rapid dipping, and soak the insert. The base of the strip is immersed in the liquid and taken out immediately; it can also be quickly dipped with 300~450mg/kg of naphthalene acetic acid. Tests have shown that soaking 1/3 of the branches with 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate for 48 hours can also improve the survival rate of cutting seedlings.

(4) Cutting time: It is advisable to start open-air cutting seedling cultivation in early spring when the soil temperature reaches above 8~10℃.

(5) Cutting method: ridge cutting or border cutting can be used.

① Ridge cutting: Deep plow and finely rake the nursery land and level it, then carry out ridge cutting. Make ridges in an east-west direction with a row spacing of about 50 cm. First dig a trench 15-20 cm deep and 15-20 cm wide. Plow the trench soil to the north to form a ridge 20 cm high. Then press the treated cuttings 10-10 cm along the trench wall. Insert the cuttings at a spacing of 15 cm. When the cuttings are long, they can be inserted at an angle, with the top bud facing upwards and south. Then take soil from the south of the ditch to cover it, use your feet to firmly cover it, water it thoroughly and then cover it with soil, so that the fine soil exceeds the top bud by 3 to 5 cm. . If you cover it with plastic film or build a small shed, it will help the cuttings take root early.

② Border transplanting method: The deeply plowed and finely leveled seedling land is formed into a border of 1 to 1.5 meters wide from north to south. The length of the border is generally 20 to 30 meters, and the row spacing within the border is 25 to 30 centimeters. Dig a trench to a depth of about 10 cm. Insert the cuttings into the trench with a spacing of 10 to 15 cm between the plants. The top buds are level with the ground and the bud eyes are facing upward. Cover the cuttings with 3 to 5 cm of fine soil and water them once. After the water has seeped down, cultivate it in time. If possible, cover it with film after cultivating to protect the moisture and increase the temperature, and promote the rooting of the cuttings.

The soil temperature of ridge cuttings rises quickly, germination is early, cultivating and weeding is convenient, ventilation and light are transmitted, and the growth of seedlings is better than that of ridge cuttings.