Nikon camera is famous for its sharpness, but the scale of sharpness is not easy to grasp, especially when shooting scenery (or shooting dim objects), it is not natural to be too sharp. The trick is to set the sharpness of optimized calibration to the maximum while shooting in raw, and then shoot in real time. For example, the shooting object contains a large number of objects that need details (such as leaves, grass and other common objects in landscape photography), which is very beneficial to the control of details. For example, when the whole picture is finally viewed in the computer, it is unnatural, and the sharpness can be reduced in raw.
2, the skill of quickly setting the menu
You can make full use of the "My Menu" function, and put the common options (first or second level options) in the play menu, shooting menu and personal user menu into "My Menu" at one time, with a maximum of 20 items, and the order can be adjusted at will. Because Nikon has set shortcut keys for a large number of commonly used functions, the most commonly set ones are D-Lighting, optimized calibration and shooting menu library in personal user menu.
3. Tips for quickly determining white balance
When the scene light source is complex, it is not easy to adjust the most suitable white balance in a short time. At this time, it is often surrounded by white balance. By setting the adjustment series of yellow (a) and blue (b), setting the compensation series (white balance correction range) and setting the number of shots, the white balance that best suits the environment and atmosphere at that time can be selected in the shortest time. It should be noted that the white balance that conforms to the atmosphere is not necessarily a strict 18 degree neutral gray, and this point cannot be solved by using the raw format (theoretically, the white balance setting in raw can be adjusted at will later). In actual use, it depends on personal habits and conditions whether it is surrounded by white balance and adjusted later in raw. Under complex light sources, the usual settings are:
First, the FUNC button is designated as the white balance surrounding button, and then the white balance that comes with the camera is roughly selected (this should be set temporarily on site, which is roughly accurate, not strictly required, mainly as the benchmark for the white balance surrounding), and then the white balance adjustment level is set to 5, and the number of shots is set to 5. After setting, just press the shutter once, and the camera will automatically take five white balance photos with different levels (it is necessary to press the shutter several times to surround the exposure), from which one photo can best express the theme and the atmosphere of the scene, and then change the camera white balance to "manual preset", and save the white balance setting of the photo that best expresses the theme and the atmosphere of the scene as a self-defined value when selecting images, so that other photos of the same scene can be easily taken with the same white balance.
4. Set some skills for optimizing calibration.
(1) If you want to emphasize the edge of an object (for example, when shooting an object with maple leaves as the main body), you should improve the sharpening degree and contrast at the same time, so that the color will be more vivid and the visual impact will be stronger. It should be pointed out that if the brightness is increased at the same time, the enhancement of brightness will partially offset the effects of improving contrast and sharpening. If you are not sure, please set it to A (at the far left of the setting bar), and the machine will automatically set the sharpness according to the field situation, which often works well.
(2) When the photos are gray (such as shooting a mountain with fog with a telephoto lens when the sun is strong), it is often necessary to improve the contrast and improve the contrast, which is also conducive to expressing another tone with black and white gray. If you are not sure, please set it to A (at the far left of the setting bar), and the machine will automatically set the contrast according to the field situation, which often works well.
(3) Improving the brightness can partially suppress the noise in the picture; Reducing the brightness can partially suppress the probability of dead white.
(4) Don't increase the saturation a lot at a time, slowly increase it, and then zoom in to confirm whether the details can still be preserved, especially when shooting red flowers, and pay more attention to the details such as the loss of veins and folds caused by over-saturation. If you are not sure, please set it to A (at the far left of the setting bar), and the machine will automatically set the saturation according to the field situation, which often works well.
(5) Setting the hue to a negative number will increase the yellow tone, and setting it to a positive number will increase the red tone. When shooting a portrait, you can adjust it positively, so if the white balance setting is accurate, it is easy to get the effect that the model is white and red.
(6) If the contrast and brightness cannot be adjusted, just turn off D-Lighting.
(7) In the monochrome filter, the contrast intensity of the picture decreases from R (red), O (orange) and Y (yellow) in order, and G (green) is a good filter for shooting monochrome portraits, so you might as well try it.
5, automatic exposure (focus) locking skills
Setting AE-L (Lock Auto Exposure) is a very important function in the camera. Nikon camera setup skills:
(1) Lock automatic exposure only: Only press and hold the AE-L/AF-L button, the exposure will be locked, and when the button is released, the camera will continue to measure light automatically. Because individuals are not used to composition, they always need to press and hold the AE-L/AF-L button nervously, so it is best not to set "Lock Auto Exposure Only".
(2) Only lock the autofocus: Only when the AE-L/AF-L button is pressed, the focus will be locked. When the button is released, the camera will continue the autofocus. This function is very useful, especially when the light is dim, and after it is finally focused, it can be re-composed without worrying about the bellows phenomenon. It should be pointed out that it is not necessary to set "lock autofocus only" if the lens has a lock focus function (such as a small bamboo gun).
(3)AE/AF lock (reset when the shutter is released): After pressing the AE-L/AF-L button, the exposure and focus are locked (the lock is still valid after releasing the button), and it is not released until the shutter is pressed or the camera's metering is turned off. This setting is often used, which is quite convenient.
(4)AE lock (hold): After pressing AE-L/AF-L button, the exposure and focus are locked (the lock is still valid after releasing the button), and it is still held after pressing the shutter, which is suitable for continuous shooting after exposure lock. This setting should be made only when shooting a stadium scene with stable light source and so on requires a lot of continuous shooting.
6. Quick selection of the best metering mode
Set the default metering mode to matrix metering, so that you can have a general judgment of the overall exposure value first, and in most cases, the matrix exposure is still relatively accurate. At the same time, in the F control option, select "Specify FUNC button", set Fn button as spot metering, and set preview button as central focus metering, so that when the subject occupies most of the central area of the screen (such as close-up in portrait photography), press the preview button and switch to central focus metering quickly; When the subject occupies a small area of the whole picture and the light ratio between the background environment and the subject is quite different (for example, shooting portraits in backlight environment), press the Fn button to switch to spot metering (of course, metering the subject), which is very convenient. As for the size of the central key area, the user can set it in the "Central Key Area" in B metering/exposure settings. I usually use 8mm for half-length close-ups, 6mm for face close-ups, and 10mm for full-body close-ups.
7. How to use the simulated flash?
Simulated flash means that the photographer can see the shadow position of the subject in advance after the flash is turned on, so as to confirm the output strength and direction of the flash. In the E-Surround/Flash option, set the analog flash to ON, and then press the "Preview of Depth of Field" button when the flash is turned on (whether it is internal flash or external flash), and the flash will be flashed with the preview button. It should be said that this function is quite useful when shooting outdoors with multiple lights.
8. When is automatic FP used?
Generally, the synchronization speed of high-end flash is about 1/250 seconds. If the shutter speed exceeds the maximum synchronization speed of the flash (such as 1/400 seconds, F2, which often happens when the flash is used and a large aperture is used at the same time), the shutter Hou Lian will fall before the front curtain of the shutter is fully opened, which often results in "semi-black" of local images. In this case, you need to turn on automatic FP. After the automatic FP is turned on, the shutter speed can exceed the flash synchronization speed limit (1/250 seconds, reaching 1/2500 seconds or even 1/4000 seconds). In practical use, when shooting portraits or flowers with high sunlight and large aperture, it is often necessary to use a flash to partially fill the light to highlight the texture and blur the background. At this time, turning on the automatic FP is the only way, otherwise almost 100% will shoot a dead white (because the shutter is too slow). Therefore, when using the flash, the "automatic FP" is usually started. By the way, the built-in flash cannot use FP high-speed synchronous shutter.
9. Fast focus control
When it comes to focusing, we must understand AF focusing mode and AF area mode. The former controls the method of clear focusing and the latter controls the setting of focus. For beginners, the best setting is AF-A+3D tracking. AF-A can automatically determine the focus mode. If the subject is stationary, the system automatically adopts AF-S, and once the subject is not fixed in the focus, the system will automatically switch to AF-C.. Therefore, 3D tracking is recommended, because after the selected focus is focused, even if the subject moves away from the focus, the system will automatically switch to the focus for continuous focusing according to the color and contrast. This recommended method has a slight influence on speed and accuracy, but it is simple and easy to implement. If you want to pursue faster speed and accuracy, you should study other AF focusing modes and AF area modes.
10, experience of dynamic AF area selection
First of all, it should be explained that when selecting dynamic AF area, the more points you use, the better. You should set them according to the subject and subject, and the efficiency will be the highest.
(1)9 focus points: it is suitable for occasions where the subject occupies a small proportion in the picture and needs to explain the environment, such as shooting bees and butterflies flying among flowers, at this time, there is no need to deliberately emphasize the details (there is no need to shoot compound eyes and fluff). Bees and butterflies only play a finishing touch in the whole picture and are an element of expressing the environment. At this time, only the subject (bees and butterflies) needs to be covered.
(2)2 1 focus: it is suitable for the subject to occupy a large proportion in the picture, and it is not necessary to explain the environment deliberately. For example, when shooting bees and butterflies, details such as compound eyes and fluff need to be emphasized deliberately. The theme of the photo is not to emphasize the relationship between the subject and the environment, but to show the most brilliant part of the subject. It is more appropriate to set 2 1 focus at this moment.
(3)5 1 focus point: it is totally impossible to predict the subject's motion trajectory, such as shooting a bird in a fight. At this time, instead of focusing on itself, it is better to leave it to the camera to judge automatically, and you just need to keep continuous shooting.
(4)5 1 focus (3D tracking): Similar to 5 1 focus, the difference is that the environment in the picture is messy (there is a lot of spatial information in the messy environment, which is convenient for 3D tracking), the subject and the background are quite different in color, and the contrast is strong. The subject keeps moving up and down in the picture, and the sense of space is strong.
1 1, the correct understanding of lock tracking and focusing
This function is mainly used to set the waiting time for AF focusing when the focus distance of the subject suddenly changes. When the subject changes rapidly (skating, racing and other sports themes), choosing off can make the camera focus quickly with the action of the subject. What happens when it is set to long? In the process of shooting, a person suddenly walks past the camera and interferes with the subject. If it is set to long, the camera will still bite the subject to focus. In fact, this is a problem with the naming of Nikon's menu. For example, "Lock Tracking Focus" is changed to "Tracking Focus Duration", and the settings inside are changed to "Long, Short, Auto, Lock", which is easier to understand. In particular, the "standard" in the original menu is changed to "automatic", which can accelerate users' understanding of Nikon cameras.
12, control skills of focus
If you use 5 1 focus, the number is certainly more, but there are also more choices, which means that the control speed will be greatly reduced. Nikon provides two techniques to improve the control speed.
(1) Start the focus cycle: after the focus cycle mode is set to cycle, when the selected focus point is at the far left, press the left button of the multi-selector, and the selected focus will automatically switch to the far right of the picture. Similarly, when the focus is at other positions on the edge of the picture, the four-way button of the multi-selector will help the user to speed up the control feeling of the focus movement.
(2) Multi-selector center button: It is suggested that the ok button be set to "Select the center focus", so that no matter where the focus is, whether it is horizontal or vertical, as long as the ok button in the middle of the multi-selector is pressed, the focus will immediately return to the center.
13 and AF-ON should be fully used.
It is suggested that users who like full-time manual focus cancel the focus by half pressing the shutter and give the focus to the AF-ON button, which is not only useful for shooting macro, but also useful for shooting birds. The specific settings are as follows:
(1) For machines with AF-ON button (above D300), in a5 (triggering autofocus) in A autofocus, the default setting of the machine is "shutter /AF-ON button", and it can be changed to "AF-ON button only".
(2) For machines without AF-ON button (less than D90), just set AE-L/AF-L button to AF-ON in f4 (setting AE-L/AF-L button) in F control.
When shooting birds, the general focusing mode will be set to AF-C. At this time, by pressing the button, the shooting object can be tracked continuously. Once the button is released, AF will automatically stop (lock focus). When the button is pressed all the time, continuous shooting is used. Because the shutter button no longer has the focusing function, the response speed is greatly accelerated. When 5 1 focus point is set, the focus point in the viewfinder will automatically move with the birds.
14, the application of exposure delay mode in landscape photography and macro photography
The slight vibration caused by the bounce of the reflector will blur the picture. Although it is very slight, it is not allowed for rigorous scenery and macro photography. The best solution is to set the "exposure delay mode" to "On" in the personal setting menu, so that after the shutter is pressed, the mirror pops up first, and the shutter is closed after about 1 second. During this 1 second, the jitter caused by the bounce of the mirror basically stops, which can ensure the clarity of the picture. Of course, those subjects that need to master the shooting moment (street sweeping and shooting, sports subjects) are not suitable for this technique.
15, tips for instant framing
There are two different focusing methods in instant framing. In hand-held mode, the framing mode focuses by half pressing the shutter. At this time, the reflector falls and the LCD screen is temporarily dark, so the focusing position can only be confirmed from the viewfinder. In tripod mode, the viewfinder mode is focused by the AF-ON button. It is recommended that you adopt tripod mode. After taking instant view, the focusing speed will be slower. In order to improve the focusing speed, the focusing point can be reduced to 1 1 or even less (if there are fewer choices), because focusing in instant view mode often needs manual fine adjustment, and the focusing point in the machine is of little use. If users often use the live view function, they may wish to designate it as a shortcut button by selecting "Designate FUNC button" in the "F control" option, and then setting it as live view. In the instant view mode, zooming in is a function often used to shoot macro, which can focus more accurately.
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Nikon, a famous camera manufacturer in Japan, was founded in 19 17, when it was named Japan Optical Industry Corporation. 1988 The company changed its name to Nikon Co., Ltd. based on its camera brand.
The name "Nikon", which has been used since 1946, is the Roman abbreviation of Japanese pronunciation (Nippon Kogaku) of "Japanese optics", and incorporates the writing method of kon in ZeissIkon, a Zeiss camera in German. Among Nikon's many camera products, the most important ones are Nikkor camera lens, Nikon underwater camera (Nikonos), Nikon F series 135 film SLR camera, Nikon D series digital SLR camera and consumer digital camera Coolpix series. Nikon is also a manufacturer of step-by-step semiconductor production equipment (stepper). The company also produces goggles, ophthalmic inspection equipment, binoculars, microscopes and survey equipment.
20 171October 30th, Nikon China officially announced that it would stop the business activities of its subsidiary Nikon Optical Instruments (China) Co., Ltd. located in Wuxi. At the same time, the factory responsible for the production of Nikon digital cameras and digital camera accessories will also stop production.