First, what is Pixian bean paste. Bean paste is the most commonly used seasoning sauce in Sichuan cuisine, which is made by artificial fermentation and sun drying of broad beans and peppers. Because of its unique color, aroma and taste, it has become a necessary condiment for cooking and is known as the soul of Sichuan cuisine. Produced in Pidu District, Chengdu, Sichuan Province, it was approved as a geographical indication product in China by the General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine on the last day of 20 15, and its production technology was listed in the national intangible cultural heritage list.
Second, how did Pixian bean paste come from? This is a true story. It is said that during the Xianfeng period of the Qing Dynasty, there was a craftsman named Chen Shouxin in Pixian County. On the basis of traditional Chili sauce making, he added steamed and fermented broad beans to sun-dry it according to the sun-drying method in soybean sauce. The sauce produced was different, especially fresh and fragrant, and its color was red. It was used for cooking and had its own flavor, forming the most fundamental characteristics of Sichuan cuisine.
Third, the development of Pixian bean paste. Pixian bean paste was born, and soon became a local famous brand, which has experienced three major development stages for more than 300 years. In the first stage, the market competition was dominated by inventors, and the Chen family continued to develop and grow; In the second stage, the government, the army and the market made concerted efforts during the Republic of China, and the products were widely spread, and the output reached more than 400 thousand Jin in the 1940 s; The third stage is the public-private partnership after liberation, which has become a real industrialized product.
Fourthly, the market performance of Pixian bean paste. Like other famous brand products in other places, Xinyang tea, Wuchang rice and Fuling mustard tuber have one product, many manufacturers and countless brands. There are hundreds of brands of Pixian bean paste at present, with an annual output of one million tons and tens of thousands of employees. When the scale is large, the products will inevitably be uneven. Among many brands, there are two brands that are relatively stable, one is the old brand Juancheng and the other is Dandan. Fortunately, other brands, as a whole, are rare.
Fifth, which brand is authentic. Among the hundreds of existing brands, Juancheng brand and Dandan brand have the best reputation, but they are not authentic in theory. What is really authentic is the sauce made by each family. When you go to their home, you will know that the production technology of Pixian bean paste is really elaborate. It usually takes one year, and at most it takes three years to make it. It's unforgettable to eat the bean paste from the family.
Pixian bean paste is outstanding among many seasonings in Chinese food, and it is also praised as the "soul of Sichuan cuisine". Many people now pay attention to "authenticity" when tasting food. I think traditional crafts and products should be valued even if they are preserved in culture, but diet needs to progress with the times. Of course, traditional culture can't be lost, but it's not a good thing to stand still, so we should treat this matter rationally.
If we trace back to the history of Pixian bean paste, we have to mention the "Chen clan" who started the embryonic form of bean paste in the Qing Dynasty and made it continue and develop.
According to legend, the rudiment of bean paste was born in the Kangxi period. Some Chen people used sun-dried broad beans, salt and pepper to mix together for dinner. The unexpected discovery was quite appetizing and delicious, and this was the original style of bean paste. Later, during the Jiaqing period, the Chen family set up the "Shuntian" sauce garden, which sold the appearance of Pixian watercress-pickled red pepper.
Later, in Xianfeng period, Chen Shouxin, a descendant of the Chen clan, improved the practice of his ancestors, and founded the "Yifenghe" sauce garden on the basis of "Shuntian", so Pixian bean paste was officially perfected. (There is a need to put in a few words here. Obviously, the old Mr. Chen Shouxin, who is regarded as the "originator of Pixian watercress", is not a self-satisfied person. If he blindly followed the "authentic" practices of his ancestors at that time, there would be no later Pixian watercress. )
Later, after a long period of development, competition, change, etc., the current Pixian bean paste came into being. Therefore, to talk about the authentic brand of Pixian bean paste, it is naturally the Juancheng bean paste produced by Yifeng and No.300, which has been passed down for 300 years. In fact, this is a relatively uncontroversial "authentic" identification. After all, this is a national intangible cultural heritage, and it is also the authentic originator of the real bean paste recognized by the people.
Friends who are interested in food, healthy diet and food anecdotes can pay attention and praise, and share interesting and useful related content together in the future! I'm glad to see this problem, because I'm a native of Sichuan, and now my parents live in Pixian County, and I can smell strong douban every time I go home.
Let's talk about Pixian watercress. There are many brands of Pixian watercress in the market, and the famous brands are Juancheng and Dandan.
Pixian watercress has the characteristics of spicy and heavy taste, bright red and oily, and sweet aftertaste, which is a favorite taste of Sichuan people. The production technology of Pixian watercress has been listed in the national intangible cultural heritage list, which proves that its production technology is superb and delicious, and it has been loved by people all over the country. However, many people confuse red oil bean paste with Pixian bean paste now. In fact, the two flavors are different, and the former is not as complicated to make as the latter. Authentic Pixian bean paste needs to go through a process of turning, drying and exposing, and it will take at least one year to make it. If it is a person with poor craftsmanship, it is easy to cause the deterioration of bean paste in the first three processes. Only in the hands of some people who are proficient in the production process can the flavor of bean paste be maximized.
Let's talk about how to choose bean paste. When choosing bean paste in the supermarket, I suggest that the subject buy the Juancheng brand and Dandan brand I mentioned above. When choosing bean paste, try to choose those with darker colors and no red oil, because the deeper the color, the more unique the flavor of bean paste is. And now the price of bean paste is also distinguished by the age of bean paste, just like liquor. For more than 3 years, it can be regarded as super-grade douban, with dark reddish brown overall, shiny oil content and the strongest sauce flavor. It is precisely because it takes longer to make, so it is also called old watercress. Relatively speaking, watercress tastes more mellow, so it is more expensive. 3-6 months old are generally red watercress, the color is red, slightly oily and shiny, and cooking is easy to color. However, the flavor is not very rich, so many diners and chefs who pursue flavor and color at the same time mix old watercress and red watercress, so that the dishes they make can take into account both color, flavor and shape.
Which brand of Pixian watercress is authentic?
As an edible fan and user of watercress, I'd like to share the authenticity and story of watercress with you.
Douban Originated in Chengdu Plain, Sichuan, watercress is indispensable in people's lives in all parts of Sichuan and Chongqing. There are two kinds of bean shops in Sichuan, one is called Yangdouban and the other is called Yindouban. In the industry, it is called red bean office and black bean office, because red bean office is yin douban and black douban is yang douban. The production of Yindouban is made of Yin instead of sun exposure. Made in the same year, eaten in the same year, and in some places, spices and vegetable oil are added to make it together. Yangdouban is a well-known Pixian douban, which is made from two fine peppers rich in Chengdu Plain by sun drying and fermentation. The general fermentation period is more than two years, and the color is black and red, with pleasant aroma. It is one of the most important condiments in Sichuan cuisine. Known as the soul of Sichuan cuisine. Therefore, there are too many brands in the market. There are not many good beans, and they are very rare. There are too many brands of watercress in Pixian County, and the most popular one is Juancheng brand watercress, but there are many underground branches. The most authentic one is the Juancheng brand watercress of Pixian Douban Research Institute and Pixian Douban General Factory.
I have been in Chengdu for several years, and I like Sichuan cuisine and Pixian watercress, the soul of Sichuan cuisine.
I cook at home, and I also like to add Pixian watercress as seasoning. However, at present, there are too many brands of Pixian douban, the quality is mixed, it is not good to buy, and it is used for cooking, only salty and tasteless.
In the supermarket market in Xi 'an, there are also many brands of Pixian watercress. I have used at least 10 brands.
According to my own personal test, the brand with good quality, fragrance and salty taste is the first choice, followed by Dandan brand. Therefore, the authentic Pixian watercress should be the Juancheng brand.
Most of other brands are low in oil, high in salt, odorless, or contain impurities.
Dandan brand or Juancheng brand bean office is authentic, I don't know!
I ate the bean paste called Linjiang Temple in the 1970s, which was delicious and made my mouth water!
No one is as delicious as our own. When we open the jar, the aroma will fill our nose. I have been to Yancheng during the Spring Festival, and I specially brought a small jar of my own pickled bean paste to eat, because no one sold outside is as delicious as my sister. It is no exaggeration.
I hope that the practitioners of Pixian bean office can make the bean office that has the fragrance of bean office and is not too salty in the 1950s. Now the bean office is too salty (including Juancheng) to put it. Good beans, even if it's more expensive, will be popular. Miss the Yuan Hongdou Office in those days!
Hello, everyone, I'm Tang Chun, a spatula layperson. I'm a senior technician in Chinese cooking, the first generation disciple of Shi Pai Sichuan cuisine, and the first generation disciple of China Imperial Cuisine (Tangmen Li Pai).
I began to study with Shi Zhengliang, a master of Sichuan cuisine, in 20 10. The first lesson of Master made me remember vividly: "A clever woman can't cook without rice, and a skillful cook can't cook without materials", so what Master taught me at the earliest was not cooking skills, but brought me to know all kinds of ingredients and condiments of Sichuan cuisine. Among these condiments, the most important ones are the four flavors of Sichuan cuisine: Pixian douban, Zhongba soy sauce, Mucor douchi and Baoning vinegar. Especially Pixian watercress, Master took us to Pixian for cognition and study, so I have a deep understanding of Pixian watercress.
To this end, I will answer this question, hoping to achieve the purpose of solving doubts for you.
First of all, I declare that I am introducing Pixian watercress to you from a neutral point of view, and I have no intention to praise or criticize any enterprise. I am only responsible for the authenticity of this article.
To answer this question, we must first understand: what is Pixian watercress? This topic is very big, so the length is a bit long, and impatient parents can directly look at the bold type.
Let's start with its history.
The history of Pixian watercress before the reform and opening up can be found on Baidu, so I won't go into details here. In this regard, I will go straight to the point and say: according to the brand, there are only two most authentic Pixian watercress: Yifeng Hehao (Juancheng) and Shaofeng Hehao, because only these two are the orthodox inheritance of the rooted Miaohong. However, these two enterprises are not enough to represent Pixian watercress. Because the main event hasn't started yet.
After the founding of New China, Yifenghe and Yuanfengyuan two sauce gardens responded to the joint venture, and the two merged to form a state-owned douban factory. The trademarks began to use "YifengheNo." and "Juancheng" (Juancheng is another name for Pixian County); The trademark "Pixian watercress" was nationalized and belonged to the Pixian government.
In order to encourage economic development and promote Pixian specialty products more, the Pixian government adopted the trademark "Pixian watercress" as long as it "joins" Pixian watercress industry association. In order to standardize the whole industry, we also applied for the national standard of Pixian watercress. For enterprises that do not meet the national standard, we will resolutely ban the use of the trademark of Pixian watercress and no longer issue food production licenses.
Therefore, all the products with the trademark "Pixian watercress" are subject to national standards. From this perspective, no matter which brand you buy, Pixian watercress is authentic. However, I want to remind you that Gui Li is everywhere. You should beware of "Danxian watercress", "Pixian flavor watercress" and "Pixian watercress".
Speaking of which, are you disappointed? Do you think I said a lot, just like I didn't say anything? Take it easy, because the next step is the key. Let's start with a dish.
In addition to the army of the Republic of China, Pixian watercress became popular because of a dish-Sichuan style pork.
In the past, a long time ago, Pixian watercress was used as the seasoning for stir-fried pork. Pixian watercress has made great contributions to Sichuan cuisine because of its strong sauce flavor, which is known as the "soul of Sichuan cuisine". Was Pixian watercress really that fragrant at that time? Let's take a look at the previous Pixian douban. Why did you only let him go?
Let's talk about the raw materials first: the raw materials of Pixian watercress are very simple, broad beans, peppers and salt. The industry is commonly known as "petal" and "sea pepper". Pixian watercress has a strong sauce flavor, which is first fermented from broad beans. Here, I want to say a professional term called "Yin Claw". To put it bluntly, it is a naturally fermented petal, and the fermentation period is 4-6 months. The fermented petals turn black, and the petals are fully saccharified and have the sweetness of sugar. Then mix the fermented petals with pepper, noting that this pepper can only be "Sichuan Erjing Strip".
Erjing Tiao was originally named Erjin Bar. It is said that two gold bars can be exchanged for an acre of pepper. It was planted by Zhuge Liang in Mumashan, Shuangliu County, and became one of the three major financial revenues of the Northern Expedition of Shu (there is no doubt here that pepper was introduced to China in the Ming Dynasty). But I regret to tell you that the purebred Sichuan Erjingtiao is almost exported to Japan and South Korea, and the Chinese people are almost blessed. Don't be outraged. If you pay 20 yuan to buy a kilo of peppers, you will definitely criticize.
There are no two kinds of Vitex negundo, the cycle of Yin petal is too long, the financial pressure is too great, and few enterprises make it. From this point of view, all the Pixian watercress you bought now are not strictly Pixian watercress. Does this news make people feel sorry? In fact, it doesn't matter, because the pigs with authentic Sichuan style pork will soon become extinct, but we can eat Sichuan style pork the same, as well as Pixian watercress.
Since Pixian watercress is not the original Pixian watercress, why is it still so popular? Besides, his demand is growing? The reason why Pixian watercress is so popular now is that it is no longer Pixian watercress (do you feel like listening to a talk show? ）。 But it is true, which has to be said about the technology of Pixian watercress:
Pixian douban is called Pixian douban, not because he was born in Pixian, but because his processing technology has created his uniqueness, just as the Diamond Sutra said: "The Buddha said that it is prajnaparamita, that is, it is not prajnaparamita, but its name is prajnaparamita."
The technology of Pixian watercress is very simple. After the pepper is crushed and fermented with salt, add the fermented petals and stir them evenly. As long as it doesn't rain, the watercress will be open to the sun and dew, and stirred once every morning and evening. This is the three-character formula of Pixian watercress: "Turn, sun and dew". After years of exposure to the sun and night dew, Pixian watercress has been handed down from generation to generation. But unfortunately, what we buy now is basically not Pixian watercress brewed and dried, not the black heart of the production enterprise, but the demand has changed fundamentally.
With the demand of catering market, people find that the sauce flavor can be replaced, and lobster sauce, soy sauce and sweet noodle sauce can all be replaced. Moreover, Pixian watercress (here refers to the traditional brewing and drying process) has a fatal weakness, that is, cooking is black. In order to make up for his color defects, chefs will use it with red sauce (also called original red bean paste) until the appearance of red bean paste changed this situation.
Yes, it's the kind that is common in the market. It's bottled in plastic, and there are two inconspicuous words-red oil above the word Pixian watercress.
Red oil douban was created by "Wangfeng", who fundamentally gave Pixian douban leather a life. Wangfeng is definitely a lecherous, and all the factors that are not conducive to color are removed: the dark petals are changed to baking petals (rapid fermentation in greenhouse); Sichuan pepper color is not bright red, changed to Xinjiang, Gansu pepper; Brewing and drying will darken the color of the finished product, so it will hardly be dried ... Anyway, it is a purpose-Excellence.
As it changes with the market demand, Wangfeng has sprung up in the industry and quickly ranks among the top three in the industry. As a result, the whole industry followed suit, and now red oil watercress accounts for at least 80% of the whole watercress industry in Pixian County, and the traditional technology almost disappeared.
The two leading enterprises of Pixian watercress, Juancheng (state-owned enterprise) and Dandan (the largest sales volume), followed suit, and produced red-oil watercress to cater to the market, but they felt that Pixian watercress was fundamentally maotai-flavored, and even though it was made with red-oil watercress, it should still have a certain maotai-flavored flavor and follow the crowd.
As a result, Pixian watercress is divided into two camps: Andebang (represented by Juancheng and Dandan, located in Andezhen, Pixian County, whose products are mainly fragrance) and Baimabang (represented by Wangfeng and Hengxing, whose products are mainly color, located in Baima Village, Pixian County).
It is concluded that if you buy red bean paste with good color, Wangfeng and Xingxing are the first choice, and if you buy red bean paste with good fragrance, Juancheng and Dandan are the first choice.
Seeing this, you may have to ask, can you still buy Pixian watercress with full sauce flavor? Can!
In fact, the reason for the popularity of red bean paste is the popularity of new Sichuan cuisine and Jianghu cuisine. However, in recent years, people have begun to regain their traditions, and the culinary world has voiced again: the essence of Sichuan cuisine is taste, and everything else is floating clouds. In response to market demand, there are now a few enterprises that have started to produce the authentic Pixian watercress. Although there is no pure Sichuan Erjingtiao, there are still some Erjingtiao.
How to identify the authentic Pixian watercress (this may be the question that the pro really wants to ask), after all, it is definitely not cheap?
Teach you a trick: First, see if the product name is "red oil Pixian watercress" or "Pixian watercress"; Second, look at the ingredients list. If there are preservatives, no matter what brand, it is not authentic "Pixian watercress" because "Pixian watercress" does not need to be preserved. 3. Pixian watercress will be saccharified after a long period of fermentation and sun-drying, and it smells sweet.