However, I once again opened Mr. Wang's book, reread the aftertaste, and found from every bit that this is a very interesting person in life and an out-and-out gourmet.
Mr. Lu Xun has not written a book about food, but you can find traces of food in many of his works. What is revealed between the lines is Mr. Wang's unique taste. He is unambiguous about good food.
Taste of home
1881On September 25th, Lu Xun was born in Zhou Jia, Xintaimen, Dongchangfang, Shaoxing, Zhejiang. In his hometown Shaoxing, he spent his childhood and adolescence.
When Lu Xun 1 1 was young, he went to San Tan Yin Yue to study and studied under Shou Jason Wu. However, the next year, my grandfather Zhou was put into prison for committing a crime. When the house leaked, it rained all night, and his father Zhou Boyi was seriously ill. After that, his family had to take refuge in the countryside.
In order to treat his father, Lu Xun, the dutiful son, went in and out between the pawnshop and the drugstore every day and looked on coldly. 1896, his father Zhou Boyi passed away, and his family became more difficult.
This is a life of sorrow and joy. Even after leaving here, Shaoxing is still an unavoidable city. The food imprint here is deeply rooted in Lu Xun's creation.
From Herb Garden to San Tan Yin Yue contains the root of Polygonum multiflorum Thunb, which can make you live forever. Rubus is sour and sweet, and its color and taste are far better than mulberry. It not only attracted Lu Xun as a child, but also opened his delicious taste buds. Childishness is really interesting and makes people smile.
In "Morning Flowers", YanTaitai who said "OK, have another piece" was called "kind person" by Lu Xun. There are also water chestnut, water bamboo, cantaloupe and so on, all of which are extremely delicious.
Catch shrimp in villages in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, and cook the spoils with ginger and soy sauce. It doesn't matter whether the social drama in Social Drama is wonderful or not. The children were thinking about Podocarpus, which was stolen and cooked at night. Boil it with salt and firewood from the hachi boat. It's delicious.
In "Hometown", young people under the moon leap into the earth, Yan Wang and watermelon, as if they were in front of them. Runtu gave Lu Xun his own dried green beans, which were inexpensive, but convenient and durable.
In the storm, people served dried plums, brown rice and fried beans. Dried prunes are Lu Xun's favorite. In his article, he praised the delicacy of dried vegetables by Zhao's mouth. He also proudly put forward a suggestion in the Diary of Gai Hua: If Shaoxing people take dried vegetables to explore the Arctic, I'm afraid they won't get scurvy and can go further.
"Blessing" mentioned that there is a dish in Fuxing Building called stewed shark's fin, which costs one yuan a plate. The oily tofu in Eating Out is very good, but the hot sauce is too weak.
People are most familiar with fennel beans. In Kong Yiji, the down-and-out Kong Yiji often goes to the store to ask for a plate of fennel beans as an appetizer. This is an ordinary broad bean, and countless young readers drool at the textbook in class. Later, four ways of writing fennel were widely known.
A series of familiar cuisines evoked Lu Xun's infinite homesickness. Shaoxing's food culture is the local sentiment in his novels.
Xun Wei Jingcheng
After returning from Japan, in 19 12 years, at the invitation of Cai Yuanpei, Lu Xun took a post in the Ministry of Education and began a life of "drifting north". For the first seven years, I lived in Shaoxing Guild Hall in Nanban Street Hutong. Later, it was moved to Badaowan 1 1, Zhuanta Hutong 6 1 and Gongmenkou Xisantiao 2 1.
Although Lu Xun works in the Ministry of Education, his life as a civil servant is very boring. Since 1920, he has taught in eight universities and middle schools, including Peking University, and has become a mentor admired by the revolutionary youth.
Lu Xun stayed in Beijing for nearly 15 years. Besides work, teaching, writing and making friends, his favorite thing is to find delicious food. In Lu Xun's diary, a large part is related to eating. It is mentioned that there are 65 restaurants in Beijing, and he almost never chooses a vegetarian restaurant when he leaves the restaurant.
19 12 On May 7th, the third day after Lu Xun arrived in Beijing, he mentioned "Guangheju" in his diary. This is the restaurant he often goes to, ranking first among the "eight big houses" in Beijing. Courtyard layout, many rooms, very suitable for Lu Xun to go with friends.
When he first arrived in Beijing, part of Lu Xun's salary had to be sent back to his hometown, as well as his usual living expenses, so he hardly ordered this old brand of expensive dishes, only ordinary cooking. Among them, fried kidney flowers and Air Balls are Lu Xun's favorites. When someone comes home as a guest, Lu Xun will directly ask Guangheju to deliver meals to the door, similar to the current "takeaway".
Subsequently, other restaurants entered Lu Xun's field of vision. Tongheju manages Shandong cuisine, and Lu Xun likes fried shrimp balls and big steamed buns mixed with sugar here best. The diced chicken with soy sauce in Dongxinglou is worth tasting carefully. The chefs in Zhimeilou are skilled, and catching fried chicken slices, bad fish slices and fried pork shreds is a test of technology.
In addition to the "Eight Houses" and "Eight Buildings", Lu Xun will not miss the small civilian pavilion. At lunch, he often takes Chen Shiceng and Qi Shoushan to Longhaixuan, a small restaurant whose specialty is soft-fried liver tip and pot-fried belly, which is especially to Lu Xun's taste.
Another small noodle restaurant is "Hutchison", which is affordable and famous for its beef and mutton. When several people come here, Lu Xun always orders a bowl of clear soup and a large portion of beef noodles.
If you visit Liulichang, Lu Xun will immediately go to Dashilan West Street, a snack street with Beijing flavor. The "Qingyun Pavilion", which appears repeatedly in the diary, is a good place for drinking tea on the street. In Yuhuchun Teahouse, you can order a spring roll and shrimp noodles and spend a leisurely afternoon. Houdefu is famous for cooking fish, and radish fish and sweet and sour tiles are a must.
Hometown food is also hard to give up. Nanweizhai is a famous shop in Jiangsu, and sweet and sour yellow croaker and shrimp tendon are the best. Xinghua Village is a Yin Shan restaurant specializing in Shaoxing cuisine. Best at frying eel slices. Although it is far from home, Lu Xun still frequents it.
In Beijing, Lu Xun also received native products from relatives and friends in his hometown. He recorded them in his diary: dried fish, chicken, sauced duck and rotten goods. In particular, a kind of food called "bad duck eggs" is actually salted duck eggs marinated with distiller's grains, and the eggs are buttered. There are mellow wines and homesickness in the house.
Jiangnan people especially like eating crabs. Mr. Lu Xun once lamented: "People who eat hairy crabs for the first time are very admirable. If they are not warriors, who dares to eat them? " He likes crabs. The big ones are boiled in water, and the small ones are made into small plates. Lu Xun believes that eating crabs can not only enjoy the "fun" of friends gathering, but also enjoy the "fun alone" of eating alone.
In the article of1September 15, Lu Xun wrote the feeling of "all people are happy" with the words "drinking and beating sandalwood". On September 19 18 and 13, he described a scene of eating alone.
In The Collapse of Leifeng Pagoda, Lu Xun uncovered the back shell of a crab, ate the crab paste, exposed the conical film, carefully cut it off, took it out, and turned it into something like a arhat. In the eyes of this gourmet, the crab at this time has a head and a face, and its body is sitting, so he described it as a "crab monk", which is the Fahai hiding inside.
The use of crabs goes far beyond this. In Miscellaneous Notes, Lu Xun used this food as a metaphor, saying that bullying is like a crab. He made a sharp criticism of this, and his words were a bit intense and particularly vivid.
Shanghai cuisine
From 1927 to 1936, Lu Xun spent the last nine years in Shanghai. Here, he created a large number of essays and essays, translated and introduced many foreign progressive books. Because he was hired by the government as a special writer, plus the royalties of his works, his monthly income reached 724 yuan, equivalent to about 20 thousand yuan today, which obviously belongs to the middle class level.
However, his daily life is very grounded. Shanghai is the capital of food. On the night when Lu Xun arrived in Shanghai, he ate in a Sichuan restaurant called Tao Lechun. The famous dishes here are steamed squid with powder, big fish head and princess chicken.
As a literary master, Lu Xun has many friends, so it is natural to eat. Of course, most of the guests are Lu Xun himself with a high income. According to1July 3, 932, Lu Xun hosted a banquet for more than ten guests at Zhiweiguan.
Zhiweiguan manages Hangzhou-style dishes, which is the place where Lu Xun went the most. There is a kind of beggar chicken in the signature dish. 1933,10123 October recorded the origin and practice of Lu Xun's banquet for Japanese friends at Zhiweiguan, during which he recommended beggar chicken to the guests. This aroused the great interest of the guests present, and they began to publicize after returning to Japan, making Zhiweiguan and beggar chicken famous locally.
There is a Liangyuan Zhimei Building in Shanghai, which mainly deals in Henan cuisine. On August 25th, 1936, Lu Xun received four Hericium erinaceus from his good friend Cao Jinghua. Roasted Hericium erinaceus is the most famous dish in Liangyuan, and Mr. Lu Xun usually likes to eat it. Cao Jinghua often sends Hericium erinaceus to Lu Xun to please him.
Mr. Lu Xun once said in his letter: If you are a botanist or an agronomist, you may be able to study and cultivate Hericium erinaceus yourself.
1934 On February 9th, Lu Xun invited Xiao Jun and his wife and a group of friends to have dinner in Liangyuan. On the 30th of the same month, a Japanese friend visited Lu Xun's home. He simply invited the famous chefs from Liangyuan to his house to cook delicious food.
Later, Xiao Hong recalled: going to Lu Xun's house for dinner, "the food is very rich, fish and meat are packed in big bowls, ranging from four or five bowls to seven or eight bowls." This is the way for Lu Xun's family to entertain guests.
On September 20th, the diary recorded that Lu Xun went to Cao Juren's house for dinner. At this dinner, Lu Xun had a special liking for the "wheat bell" made by his host, which was a kind of Pujiang pasta.
In fact, as early as June 5438+10 of this year, Lu Xun wrote an article for Cao Juren's The Sound of Waves, The Thirty-six Strategies are the Best-A Letter to the Editor of The Sound of Waves, which was later included in the Southern accent and renamed as "On Disasters" and "On Disasters"
Kutokuhayashi is a vegetarian restaurant. Lu Xun, who loves meat, doesn't like the "meat" made of soy products. He defined vegetarian meat, chicken and fish as hypocrisy of vegetarians, but in fact he never forgot to eat meat. So even a vegetarian dish can't escape Lu Xun's text analysis.
The charm of snacks
19 12 On the Mid-Autumn Festival, Lu Xun mentioned in his diary that he bought three kinds of food in Daoxiang Village. Daoxiang Village is a famous pastry shop in Beijing. Lu Xun bought dozens of snacks here in two years, because he is a standard snack control.
Lu Xun wrote an article entitled Dim Sum. He thinks Shanghainese and snacks are inseparable. He also has his own understanding of the efficacy of snacks and thinks it is a kind of health food. His family's snacks have never been broken. In order to avoid food shortage, Lu Xun always buys some snacks on the way back from going out.
In the diary of1965438+May 2, 2003, Lu Xun received mutton soup from a Japanese friend, which he liked to drink when studying in Japan, and he still remembers it after returning home. But after eating too much this afternoon, Lu Xun began to have a toothache. The next day, when he saw the dentist, he still went to Daoxiang Village to buy cookies without hesitation. The pain of tooth deterioration caused by eating sugar is not equal to the obsession with sweetness.
On, Lu Xun saw his teeth again. On his way home, he passed by Lin Ji Foreign Firm and couldn't help but buy a bait cake. The charm of cake bait is more obvious in another diary. This time, Lu Xun accidentally stepped on a broken brick while walking and hurt his knee. Before going home to apply iodine to the wound, he still endured the pain and bought the cake bait.
Lu Xun often works late. Snacks can resist hunger and relieve tension and fatigue. Lu Xun likes writing and eating at the same time. In addition to all kinds of cakes, there are dried fruits such as peanuts, walnuts and almonds, and preserves, sweets and biscuits are often put in drawers.
In the Diary of Gai Hua, Lu Xun ate more than half of the hidden persimmon frosting candy at night, comforting himself while eating: "There are not many sores on the corners of his mouth, so it is better to eat something fresh now." I didn't expect to eat more than half of it, and the image of a snack control jumped to the page.
Lu Xun mentioned a kind of cake: rose and sugar cake, which is one of his favorites. Another popular pastry is Shaqima.
Once, my son Zhou Haiying went to play in the study, saw Shaqima and asked Lu Xun if he could eat. As a result, Lu Xun said, it makes sense, but there is only one piece left, so it is better not to eat it. It can be seen that his love for Shaqima is deep, just like a child who has not grown up.
This behavior of protecting food is not only aimed at his son Zhou Haiying, but also includes people who visit his home. Because snacks are not only eaten by themselves, but also used to entertain guests, some male tourists eat too much and often eat all the snacks prepared by Lu Xun, so he has to go out and buy them again, which is very annoying.
Lu Xun tactfully invented a "peanut policy". He wrote in his diary: If peanuts are used instead of the original snacks, male guests will not eat too much. Seeing that the other party didn't eat much, he began to urge again, and sometimes persuaded guests who didn't like peanuts to leave quickly. Later, Lu Xun proudly said that this peanut policy was effective and should be continued.
An adult who loves snacks should be very romantic inside.
Spicy taste and wine taste
19 18 in may, Lu Xun published a short story "diary of a madman" in "new youth", which Hu Shi called the "pioneering work" of China's modern novels. In order to express his gratitude, Lu Xun invited Hu Shi to Shaoxing Hall for dinner. The first course is braised pork with prunes. Different from the traditional practice, there are peppers in this dish.
Spicy food is very much to Hu Shi's taste, but what he doesn't understand is that this is obviously a Jiangsu and Zhejiang dish, where people prefer sweet food to spicy food. Why did Lu Xun put pepper?
In the face of doubt, Lu Xun replied: "I use this thing to solve my difficulties." Reading in the dead of night, chewing something in my mouth, very sleepy. Sir can have a try. " After hearing this, Hu Shi laughed.
In fact, Lu Xun, a native of Zhejiang Province, showed his love for peppers when he was a teenager. When studying in Jiangnan Naval Academy, the school awarded him a gold medal for his outstanding performance, but Lu Xun immediately sold it, bought some books and bought a bunch of red peppers in the vegetable market.
The author of "Nothing Hot and Unhappy" is naturally sharp and pungent, laughing and cursing inadvertently, and profound ideological content is born from this.
In Scream and Wandering, the word "wine" appeared 93 times. Except Lonely Man, I bought a bottle of soju in the street, and all other places were Shaoxing yellow wine. For example, most people in Luzhen, Kong Yiji, love to drink. In Xianheng Hotel tomorrow, people will eat and drink happily. In In the Restaurant, Lv Fuwei didn't eat much food, but just kept drinking.
Lu Xun prefers Shaoxing food and Shaoxing rice wine. I don't drink much, but I drink every meal, but I'm not addicted to alcohol. I only drink half a bowl or a bowl. He soaked wine in roses, and all his friends said they had never seen it before.
There are thousands of cups of wine, and Yu Dafu is his drinking buddy. Because neither of them is very good at drinking, they get drunk every time. Yu Dafu wrote a poem for Lu Xun in 1933, including two sentences: "I went to the restaurant drunk and hesitated to shout for two hours."
Wine can arouse people's fighting spirit and cheer them up. Lu Xun, who is the hardest in his bones, relies on wine to relieve boredom, not to talk about things through wine.
He said in Weeds: "Every day, pour out a cup of slightly sweet bitter wine, neither too little nor too much, and give it to the world so that the drinker can cry, sing, wake up and get drunk."
In that chaotic era, millions of people were numb like puppets. Silence is as strong as wine, tasting a taste, fragrant or desolate, mixed with a life.
Mr. Lu Xun, who loves his country and people, awakened the sleeping world with a spicy pen. Criticize current events and don't forget food. Food is both a satisfaction and a cure.
Why is it so greedy that it can even eat its own body?